Through Central Borneo: by Carl Lumholtz

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THROUGH CENTRAL BORNEO

AN ACCOUNT OF TWO YEARS' TRAVEL IN THE LAND OF THE HEAD-HUNTERS BETWEEN
THE YEARS 1913 AND 1917

BY

CARL LUMHOLTZ

MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF SCIENCES OF CHRISTIANIA, NORWAY GOLD MEDALLIST OF
THE NORWEGIAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY ASSOCIÉ ÉTRANGER DE LA SOCIÉTÉ DE
L'ANTHROPOLOGIE DE PARIS, ETC.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR AND WITH MAP

We may safely affirm that the better specimens of savages are much
superior to the lower examples of civilized peoples.

_Alfred Russel Wallace._

PREFACE

Ever since my camping life with the aborigines of Queensland, many years
ago, it has been my desire to explore New Guinea, the promised land of all
who are fond of nature and ambitious to discover fresh secrets. In
furtherance of this purpose their Majesties, the King and Queen of Norway,
the Norwegian Geographical Society, the Royal Geographical Society of
London, and Koninklijk Nederlandsch Aardrijkskundig Genootschap,
generously assisted me with grants, thus facilitating my efforts to raise
the necessary funds. Subscriptions were received in Norway, also from
American and English friends, and after purchasing the principal part of
my outfit in London, I departed for New York in the autumn of 1913, en
route for the Dutch Indies. In 1914, having first paid a visit to the
Bulungan, in northeast Borneo, in order to engage the necessary Dayaks, I
was preparing to start for Dutch New Guinea when the war broke out.

Under these changed conditions his Excellency, the Governor-General,
A.W.F. Idenburg, regretted his inability to give me a military escort and
other assistance needed for carrying out my plan, and advised me to await
a more favorable opportunity. During this interval, having meanwhile
visited India, I decided to make an expedition through Central Borneo,
large tracts of which are unexplored and unknown to the outside world. My
project was later extended to include other regions of Dutch Borneo, and
the greater part of two years was spent in making researches among its
very interesting natives. In these undertakings I received the valuable
assistance of their Excellencies, the governor-general and the commanding
general, as well as the higher officials of the Dutch Government, to all
of whom I wish to express my heartfelt thanks.

Through the courtesy of the well-known Topografische Inrichting, in
Batavia, a competent surveyor, whose work will later be published, was
attached to my expeditions. He did not accompany me on my first visit to
the Bulungan, nor on the second occasion, when I went to the lake of
Sembulo, where the country is well known. In the map included in this book
I have indicated the locations of the different tribes in Dutch Borneo,
based on information gathered from official and private sources and on my
own observations.

I usually had a taxidermist, first a trained Sarawak Dayak, later a
Javanese, to collect mammals and birds. Fishes and reptiles were also
preserved in alcohol.

Specimens of ethnological interest were collected from the different
tribes visited; the collection from the Penihings I believe is complete.
Measurements of 227 individuals were taken and as soon as practicable will
be worked out by Doctor K.S. Schreiner, professor at the University of
Christiania. Vocabularies were collected from most of the tribes. In spite
of adverse conditions, due to climate and the limitations under which I
travelled, a satisfactory collection of photographic plates and films was
brought back. With few exceptions, these photographs were taken by myself.
For the pictures facing page 26 I am indebted to Doctor J.C.
Koningsberger, President of the Volksraad, Buitenzorg, Java. Those facing
pages 16 and 17 were taken by Mr. J.F. Labohm. The lower picture facing
page 286 was taken by Mr. A.M. Erskine.

My observations on the tribes are recorded in conformity with my itinerary,
and include the Kayans, Kenyahs, Murungs, Penyahbongs, Saputans, the
nomadic Punans and Bukits, Penihings, Oma-Sulings, Long-Glats, Katingans,
Duhoi (Ot-Danums), and the Tamoans. On one or two occasions when gathering
intelligence from natives I was very fortunate in my informants--an
advantage which will be appreciated by any one who has undertaken a similar
errand and has enjoyed the keen satisfaction experienced when drawing the
veil from primitive thought which lies so near and yet so far away.

Circumstances naturally prevented me from making a thorough study of any
tribe, but I indulge the hope that the material here presented may prove
in some degree acceptable to the specialist as well as to the general
reader. Matter that was thought to be of purely anthropological interest
is presented in a special supplement. Above all, I have abstained from
generalities, to which one might be tempted on account of the many
similarities encountered in the tribes that were visited. Without the
light of experience it is impossible to imagine how much of interest and
delight there is in store for the student of man's primitive condition.
However, as the captain of Long Iram said to me in Long Pahangei, "One
must have plenty of time to travel in Borneo." I have pleasure in
recording here the judicious manner in which the Dutch authorities deal
with the natives.

On a future occasion I shall hope to be able to publish a detailed report
on several of the novel features of my Bornean collections, especially as
regards decorative art, the protective wooden carvings called kapatongs,
the flying boat, etc.

The first collections sent to Norway ran the risks incident to war. Most
of them were rescued from the storehouses at Antwerp after the German
occupation, through the exertions of the Norwegian Foreign Office, though
a smaller part, chiefly zoölogical, appears to have been lost in Genoa.
Count Nils Gyldenstolpe, of the Natural History Museum,
Vetenskapsakademien in Stockholm, who is determining the mammals
collected, informs me that so far a new species of flying maki and two new
subspecies of flying squirrels have been described.

To further my enterprise, liberal gifts of supplies were received from
various firms in Christiania: preserved milk from Nestle & Anglo-Swiss
Condensed Milk Co., tobacco from Tiedemann's Fabrik, alcohol for
preserving specimens from Löitens Braenderi, cacao from Freia Chokolade
Fabrik. A medical outfit was presented by Mr. E. Sissener, Apotheket
"Kronen," Christiania, and Messrs. Burrows, Wellcome & Co., of London,
placed at my disposal three of their excellent medicinal travelling-cases.

I want to express my appreciation of many services rendered by the
Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij and its branches, especially the
Factorij in Batavia. I am under similar obligations to the Koninklijke
Paketvaart-Maatschappij, and my thanks are also due to De Scheepsagentuur
for courtesies received. Miss Ethel Newcomb, of New York, has kindly
transcribed the two songs rendered.

Finally I desire to make grateful acknowledgment of valuable assistance
rendered by Doctor J.C. Koningsberger, and by Doctor W. van Bemmelen,
director of Koninklijk Magnetisch en Meteorologisch Observatorium,
Weltevreden, Batavia.

Although force of circumstances altered the scope and to some extent the
character of this expedition, nevertheless my Bornean experiences afforded
great satisfaction. Moreover, my sojourn in the equatorial regions of the
East has imbued me with an even stronger desire to carry out my original
purpose, which I hope to accomplish in the near future.

CARL LUMHOLTZ

NEW YORK, April, 1920.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK--A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED--IMPRESSIONS OF
JAPAN--SINGAPORE--ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA--BUITENZORG--BORO BUDUR, THE
WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT

CHAPTER II

BORNEO--CLIMATIC AND BIOLOGICAL CONDITIONS--NATURAL RESOURCES--POPULATION--
HISTORY--GOVERNMENT OF THE NATIVES--RACIAL PROBLEMS.

CHAPTER III

BANDJERMASIN, THE PRINCIPAL TOWN IN DUTCH BORNEO--NORTHWARD ALONG THE EAST
COAST--BALIK PAPAN, AN OIL PRODUCING CENTRE--SAMARINDA--TANDJONG
SELOR--THE SULTAN--UP THE KAYAN RIVER.

CHAPTER IV

AN EXPEDITION INTO THE JUNGLE--FIRST IMPRESSIONS--RAPID CHANGE IN THE
DENSENESS OF VEGETATION--ANIMAL LIFE--A STUBBORN FIGHT

CHAPTER V

MEETING PUNANS, THE SHY JUNGLE PEOPLE--DOWN THE RIVER AGAIN--MY
ENTHUSIASTIC BOATMEN--MALAYS VERSUS DAYAKS

CHAPTER VI

RESUMPTION OF MY JOURNEY UP THE KAYAN RIVER--LONG PANGIAN--BERI-BERI--
HINTS ON PROPER PROVISIONS--KENYAHS FROM CENTRAL BORNEO--EFFECT OF A
SPIDER'S BITE

CHAPTER VII

ON THE ISAU RIVER--A KENYAH CHILD'S FUNERAL--A GREAT FISHING EXPEDITION--
CATCHING FISH BY POISONING THE RIVER--TAKING OMENS--ENTERTAINING SCENES

CHAPTER VIII

THE JOURNEY CONTINUED UP THE KAYAN RIVER--FIRST EXPERIENCE OF KIHAMS,
OR RAPIDS--WITH KENYAH BOATMEN--ADVANTAGE OF NATIVE COOKING--LONG
PELABAN--THE ATTRACTIVE KENYAHS--SOCIAL STRATA--CUSTOMS AND
HABITS--VALUABLE BEADS

CHAPTER IX

HYDROPHOBIA--FUNERAL CEREMONIES--AT A PADDI HARVEST--ANOTHER TUBA-FISHING
EXPEDITION--THE CHARM OF PRIMITIVE MAN--INTERESTING CEREMONIES--ON
HEADHUNTING GROUND

CHAPTER X

IN FOG AND DARKNESS--A RAID BY ANTS--DEPARTURE FROM LONG PELABAN--AN
EXCITING PASSAGE--RETURN TO TAND-JONG SELOR

CHAPTER XI

DEPARTURE FOR BANDJERMASIN--A PLEASANT STEAMSHIP LINE--TWO HEAD-HUNTERS--
AN EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO--SAMPIT--THE ORANG-UTAN--STORMY WEATHER--A
DISAGREEABLE RECEPTION

CHAPTER XII

THE WAR CHANGES MY PLANS--CHOLERA--UP THE GREAT BARITO RIVER--PURUK
TJAHU--DECIDE TO STAY AMONG THE MURUNGS--A DANCING FEAST

CHAPTER XIII

DAYAK CURE OF DISEASE-EVIL SPIRITS AND GOOD--ANIMISM--BLIANS, THE
PRIEST-DOCTORS--THE FEAST OF RUBBER-GATHERERS--WEDDINGS--IN PRIMITIVE
SURROUNDINGS

CHAPTER XIV

THE SCALY ANT-EATER--THE PORCUPINE--THE BLOW-PIPE--AN UNUSUAL ADVENTURE
WITH A SNAKE--HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MURUNGS--AN UNPLEASANT AFFAIR

CHAPTER XV

FINAL START FOR CENTRAL BORNEO--CHRISTMAS TIME--EXTENT OF MALAY
INFLUENCE--THE FLOWERS OF EQUATORIAL REGIONS--AT AN OT-DANUM
KAMPONG--THE PICTURESQUE KIHAMS, OR RAPIDS--FORMIDABLE OBSTACLES TO
TRAVEL--MALAYS ON STRIKE

CHAPTER XVI

ARRIVAL AT BAHANDANG--ON THE EQUATOR--A STARTLING ROBBERY--OUR
MOST LABORIOUS JOURNEY--HORNBILLS--THE SNAKE AND THE INTREPID
PENYAHBONG--ARRIVAL AT TAMALOË

CHAPTER XVII

THE PENYAHBONGS, MEN OF THE WOODS--RHINOCEROS HUNTERS--CHARACTERISTICS OF
THE PENYAHBONGS--EASY HOUSEKEEPING--DAILY LIFE--WOMAN'S LOT

CHAPTER XVIII

A STRANGE MAMMAL--ANIMAL LIFE IN CENTRAL BORNEO--A SUPERB AND SILENT
REALM--VISIT TO A SALT WATER EXUDATION--PASSING THE DIVIDING RIDGE--A
MOUSE-DEER CHASE--ON THE KASAO RIVER

CHAPTER XIX

THE SAPUTANS--HOW THE EARS OF THE CHIEF WERE PIERCED--AN UNEXPECTED
ATTACK OF FILARIASIS--DEPARTURE FROM THE SAPUTANS--DOWN THE KASAO
RIVER--"TOBOGGANING" THE KIHAMS

CHAPTER XX

ARRIVAL ON THE MAHAKAM RIVER--AMONG THE PENIHINGS--LONG KAI, A PLEASANT
PLACE--A BLIAN'S SHIELD--PUNANS AND BUKATS, SIMPLE-MINDED NOMADS--EXTREME
PENALTY FOR UNFAITHFULNESS--LONG TJEHAN

CHAPTER XXI

AN EXCURSION DOWN THE RIVER--LONG PAHANGEI--THE OMASULINGS--THE GREAT
TRIENNIAL FESTIVAL--HOSPITABLE NATIVES--INCIDENTS IN PHOTOGRAPHY

CHAPTER XXII

DAYAK DOGS--A FUNERAL ON THE MAHAKAM--OUR RETURN JOURNEY--AGAIN AT LONG
TJEHAN--IN SEARCH OF A UNIQUE ORCHID--A BURIAL CAVE

CHAPTER XXIII

A PROFITABLE STAY--MAGNIFICENT FRUITS OF BORNEO--OMEN BIRDS--THE PENIHINGS
IN DAILY LIFE--TOP PLAYING--RELIGIOUS IDEAS--CURING DISEASE

CHAPTER XXIV

HEAD-HUNTING, ITS PRACTICE AND PURPOSE

CHAPTER XXV

DEPARTURE FROM THE PENIHINGS--FRUIT-EATING FISH--ANOTHER CALL AT LONG
PAHANGEI--A TRIP UP THE MERASI RIVER--GENIAL NATIVES--AN INOPPORTUNE
VISIT--THE DURIAN, QUEEN OF ALL FRUITS

CHAPTER XXVI

AMONG THE LONG-GLATS--IS FEAR OF EXPOSURE TO THE SUN JUSTIFIED?--
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LONG-GLATS--GOODBYE TO THE MAHAKAM

CHAPTER XXVII

CONTINUING THE JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER--GREAT KIHAMS--BATOKELAU--AT
LONG IRAM--LAST STAGES OF OUR JOURNEY--ARRIVAL AT SAMARINDA--HINDU
ANTIQUITIES--NATIVE'S SUPERIORITY TO CIVILISED MAN

CHAPTER XXVIII

AN EARTHQUAKE--ERADICATING THE PLAGUE--THROUGH THE COUNTRY NORTHEAST
OF BANDJERMASIN--MARTAPURA AND ITS DIAMOND-FIELDS--PENGARON--THE GIANT
PIG--THE BUKITS--WELL-PRESERVED DECORATIVE DESIGNS--AN ATTRACTIVE FAMILY

CHAPTER XXIX

THE BALEI OR TEMPLE--A LITTLE KNOWN PART OF THE COUNTRY--A COURTEOUS
MALAY--POWER OVER ANIMALS--NEGARA.

CHAPTER XXX

AN EXPEDITION TO THE KATINGAN RIVER--TATUING OF THE ENTIRE BODY--THE
GATHERING OF HONEY--A PLEASANT INTERMEZZO--AN UNUSUALLY ARTISTIC
PRODUCTION--UP THE SAMBA RIVER--WITH INCOMPETENT BOATMEN

CHAPTER XXXI

AMONG THE DUHOI (OT-DANUMS)--RICH COLLECTIONS--THE KAPATONGS--THE BATHING
OF DAYAK INFANTS--CHRISTMAS EVE--THE FLYING BOAT--MARRIAGE CEREMONIES

CHAPTER XXXII

AGRICULTURAL PURSUITS--FACTS ABOUT ULU-OTS, THE WILD MEN OF
BORNEO--TAKING LEAVE OF THE INTERESTING DUHOI--A VISIT TO THE UPPER
KATINGANS--DANCING--FRIENDLY NATIVES--DOWN THE KATINGAN RIVER

CHAPTER XXXIII

KASUNGAN--THE WEALTH OF THE DAYAKS--ANIMISM--GUARDIANS OF THE DEAD--HUGE
SERPENTS--CROCODILES--GOVERNMENT OF DAYS GONE BY--KATINGAN CUSTOMS AND
BELIEFS

CHAPTER XXXIV

FUNERAL CUSTOMS OF THE KATINGANS--DEPARTURE FROM KASUNGAN--AN ATTEMPTED
VISIT TO SEMBULO--INDIFFERENT MALAYS--A STRANGE DISEASE--THE BELIEF IN
TAILED PEOPLE--THE LEGEND OF THE ANCESTOR OF TAILED MEN

CHAPTER XXXV

A VISIT TO KUALA KAPUAS--A BREED OF STUMP-TAILED DOGS--THE SHORT-TAILED
CATS OF BORNEO--A SECOND EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO--NATIVES UNDISMAYED BY
BERI-BERI--THE TAMOANS--THE PRACTICE OF INCISION

FOLKLORE OF SOME OF THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR

CONCLUSION

SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES TO THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR

A SHORT GLOSSARY

INDEX

ILLUSTRATIONS

Carl Lumholtz in the Bulungan, Dutch Borneo, May, 1914

In the jungle of Southern Borneo, near the Sampit River

The Giant Taro (_Alocasia Macrorhiza_)

The Orang-Utan. A more than half-grown specimen

The Long-Nosed Monkey (_Nasalis Larvatus_), peculiar to Borneo

The Sultan of Bulungan

Chonggat, the author's Dayak collector of animals and birds

Approaching Kaburau, on the Kayan River

Banglan, a Kayan, and his family. Kaburau

Ladders, below Long Pangian, on the Kayan River

Young Kayan, from Kaburau

Kayan, from Kaburau. Shows a Chinese manner of hair-dressing

Kayan from Kaburau. Showing the distended ear lobes

Kayan child, Kaburau

Kayan mother and infant. Near Long Pangian

Punans, the shy nomads of the jungle

Punans near my camp

Punan using the sumpitan or blowpipe

Kayan climbing a tree

Kayan at the author's camp, blowing a native wind instrument

The King Cobra (_Naia Bungarus_)

Young Orang-Utans

Kayan, from Kaburau. Front, side, and back views

Kayan, in mourning dress, Kaburau

Kenyah, from Long Pelaban. Front, side, and back views

Tuba fishing on the Isau River

Tuba fishing. Taking the augury by fire-making. Isau River

Tuba fishing. Effects of the poison. Pipa River

Kenyahs starting in the morning for distant Apo Kayan. Long Pangian, Kayan
River

A funeral house. Near Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Long Pelaban, a Kenyah kampong, on the Kayan River

The gallery of a communal house, Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah father and child. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah woman, with large basket used for carrying rice. Long Pelaban,
Kayan River

A Kenyah's sweetheart removing his eyebrows and eyelashes. Long Pelaban,
Kayan River

Wrestling. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah girl, in a woman's usual attire. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah mother and child, on their daily trips to the Long Pelaban, Kayan
River

Tuba fishing, at the Pipa River

Kenyah ready for a trip to the ladang (fields). Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah in full war attire. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Sacrificing the pig at the festival. Tumbang Marowei

Murung women squatting in order to observe the author. Tumbang Marowei

Murung man and wife. Tumbang Marowei

The beating of gongs furnishes the music at festivals. Tumbang Marowei

The Feast of the Rubber Gatherers. Tumbang Marowei

Blians, or priest-doctors, at Tumbang Marowei

Murung women smoking cigarettes and preparing them from native tobacco and
leaves of trees. Tumbang Marowei

The Scaly Ant-Eater (_Manis_). Tumbang Marowei

Telok Djulo, an Ot-Danum kampong, on the Barito River

Ot-Danum, wearing gold breastplates. Telok Djulo

Passing the Kiham Mudang, on the Upper Barito River

Rough travel by boat on the Upper Barito River

Passing the boats up the rapids of the Upper Barito River

Part of my provisions, at Bahandang, Busang River

Djobing, our efficient Malay

Part of the expedition ascending the Busang River

Tamaloë, a lately formed Penyahbong kampong

Pisha, the good Penyahbong chief. Tamaloë

Penyahbong rhino hunters. Tamaloë

Penyahbong women. Tamaloë

Back view of the Penyahbong women, showing their head-dress

Penyahbong, front, side, and back view. Tamaloë

The Penyahbong war dance. Tamaloë

Saputan, on his way to the ladang (fields) and for the hunt of Babi. Data
Láong

Saputans, front and side views. Data Láong

Saputan, the kapala of Data Láong

Saputans showing their war prowess

Saputans poling. Data Láong

Piercing the ears of the Saputan chief in order to insert a tiger cat's
corner teeth. Data Láong

Mahakam River, westward view, from the author's tent, at Long Kai

Penihings, the kapala of Long Kai and his children

Bukat, at Long Kai, front, side, and back views

Bukatwomen, at Long Kai, front and side views

The Mélah ceremony for imparting health and strength. Long Pahangei

Oma-Sulings. Long Pahangei

The Dángei hut, a temporary place of worship

The Rajá Besar, or great chief, and his wife. Long Pahangei

Large wooden drum. Long Pahangei

Lidju, a Long-Glat noble, and his wife, the sister of the Rajá Besar. Long
Pahangei

Cooking rice in bamboo receptacles. Long Pahangei

Lung Karang, a limestone hill, near Long Tjehan, on the Mahakam River

Penihing burial cave, near the Tjehan River

Penihing women carrying water. Long Kai

Penihings, from Long Kai

Two young Penihings, caught unawares by my camera. Sungei Lobang

The durian tree, with fruit. Lulo Pakko, on the Merasi River

One of our Javanese soldiers, in undress, carrying two durians. Lulo
Pakko, Merasi River

A ripe durian opened

Three Long-Glat women of the nobility. Long Tujo

Back view of the Long-Glat women

Long-Glat women. Long Tujo. Front view

Long-Glat women. Side and back views

Long-Glats, with a native dog. Long Tujo

A narrow-snouted crocodile shot by our sergeant below the great rapids of
the Mahakam

Entrance to the cave of Kong Beng

Malays searching for diamonds at Martapura

Malay house, near Martapura

Malay house at Mandin

Bukit women. Mandin

Bukit at Lok Besar, front and back views

Bukit woman and her two sons. Lok Besar

Bukit women with their children. Lok Besar

The "Order" of Beraui, and his wife, both Duhoi. Beraui, on the Samba
River

A Duhoi and his family. Beraui, Samba River

A bearded Dayak, front and side views

Upper Katingans passing the rapids of Buntut Mangkikit

Upper Katingan women dancing. Buntut Mangkikit

Upper Katingan family, at Buntut Mangkikit

An upper Katingan, of Buntut Mangkikit. Front, side, and back views

Upper Katingan women at Buntut Mangkikit, front and side views

Samples of Dayak tatuing

Women beating small drums and singing. Buntut Mangkikit

Protecting against evil spirits. Kasungan

Staffs, called pantars, erected in memoriam of the dead, at a kampong
below Kuala Samba

A wealthy Katingan, at Kasungan

A loving pair guarding the dead. Kasungan

Sacrifice of eggs to the good spirits. Long Pahangei, Mahakam River

Panyanggaran, at Bali, Katingan River

Panyanggaran, at Kasungan, Katingan River

Tamoans, from Bangkal, Lake Sembulo, front and side views

Katingan taking an astronomical observation. Kasungan

Kenyah women husking rice. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

A tailless dog, sister of the mother of the stump-tailed ones.
Bandjermasin

The short-tailed domestic cat of Borneo

A breed of stump-tailed dogs. Bandjermasin

CHAPTER I

DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK--A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED--IMPRESSIONS OF
JAPAN--SINGAPORE--ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA--BUITENZORG--BORO BUDUR, THE
WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT

Having concluded important business matters during a brief stay in New
York, I decided to go to Canada to take the express train for Vancouver.
It was the last train which made connection with the Canadian Pacific
steamer for Hong-Kong, and if I could make it I should save three weeks.
With the assurance that I should have a couple of hours latitude, I
started in the morning for Montreal. There was no doubt that I should make
it unless something unusual delayed the north-bound train, and that is
exactly what occurred. The steam power of the brake got out of order,
necessitating a stop for repairs, and considerable time was lost. Darkness
came on and I began to feel anxious about the prospect of gaining my
object.

The conductor and his assistant, in the knowledge that I had a through
ticket to Hong-Kong, did everything in their power to aid me. Wire
messages were sent to have the Imperial Limited Express wait for "a man
travelling first-class"; to the custom-house, and also for a cab and four
"red caps" to meet me on arrival. The assistant conductor told everybody
of the plight of the passenger with the long journey before him, the
engineer was prevailed upon to increase his speed; and the passengers
began to exhibit interest. A tall Canadian came to me and expressed his
belief that I would catch that train, and even if it should be gone there
was another a little later by which it might be overtaken. "I shall assist
you," he added.

As we approached Montreal there were still twelve minutes left. The lights
of the city were visible near by, and one of my fellow passengers was in
the act of assuring me that my chances were good, when our train suddenly
stopped--on account of the bridge being open to permit a ship to pass. Ten
minutes lost! I had decided, if necessary, to sacrifice two boxes of honey
which I had bought at the last moment, honey and water being my usual
drink when on expeditions. The total weight was ninety kilograms, but they
were neatly packed in paper and had been allowed to stand at one side of
the entrance to the Pullman car. They were an important adjunct of my
outfit, but perhaps after all it would be necessary for us to part.

Immediately upon the opening of the doors the four porters presented
themselves with the encouraging information that they understood the
Imperial Limited was waiting. My luggage, including the honey, was hurried
on to a large truck, my Canadian friend throwing his on too, and speeding
the boys to a trot, we ran as fast as we could to the baggage-room of the
custom-house, where the official in charge caused us only a short delay.
As the packages were being loaded into three cabs a man stepped forward
and accosted me: "We have got you now! I am a reporter for _The Star_, and
would like to know who the man is that keeps the Imperial Limited
waiting!" The moment did not seem favourable for an interview, but I
invited him to enter my cab and the two or three minutes required to drive
to the station afforded opportunity for an explanation:

I was on my way to New Guinea. This was a Norwegian undertaking which had
the support of three geographical societies. It was hoped that a geologist
and a botanist from Norway would meet me next year in Batavia to take part
in this expedition to one of the least-known regions on the globe. "What
do you expect to find?" he asked just as we halted.

The porters outside said the train was gone, having waited fifteen
minutes. The newspaper man immediately joined forces with my Canadian
friend, and they were equally determined that by some means I should
overtake that train. First we went to look for the station-master, hoping
through him to obtain permission to have the train stopped en route. When
found after a few minutes' search, he tried in vain to get one of the
officials of the Canadian Pacific Company on the telephone. My two friends
stood near to keep his interest active, but he did not seem to succeed.
The station was quiet and looked abandoned. It was after ten o'clock and
at that time of the evening the hope of reaching an official at his
residence seemed forlorn.

Meantime I had my luggage ready to throw aboard the 10.30 express, which
was my one chance in case the Imperial Limited could be halted. The three
men were persistent but finally, two or three minutes before the departure
of the express, they came to me hurriedly and said: "You had better go by
this train to North Bay, where you will arrive at 9.30 to-morrow morning.
There you will catch the train, or if not you can return here." There
appeared to me small prospect that the three men would succeed in
obtaining the desired permission, but I had no time for reflection. The
train was ready to start and my luggage was hastily thrown to the platform
of the car. I bade the gentlemen a hurried good-bye, thanking them for all
the trouble they had taken. "You are going to catch that train!" the
reporter exclaimed in a firm and encouraging tone. "But what do you expect
to find in New Guinea?" he suddenly inquired as I jumped on to the slowly
moving train.

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