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Journal of an African Cruiser by Horatio Bridge

H >> Horatio Bridge >> Journal of an African Cruiser

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On the whole, their morality is superior to their religion--at least, as
between members of the same tribe--although they scarcely seem to
acknowledge moral obligations in respect to strangers. Their landmarks,
for instance, are held sacred among the individuals of a tribe. A father
takes his son, and points out the "stake and stones" which mark the
boundary between him and his neighbor. There needs no other registry. Land
passes from sire to son, and is sold and bought with as undisputed and
secure a title as all our deeds and formalities can establish. But,
between different tribes, wars frequently arise on disputed boundary
questions, and in consequence of encroachments made by either party.
"Land-palavers" and "Women-palavers" are the great causes of war. Veracity
seems to be the virtue most indiscriminately practised, as well towards
the stranger as the brother. The natives are cautious as to the accuracy
of the stories which they promulgate, and seldom make a stronger
asseveration than "I tink he be true!" Yet their consciences do not shrink
from the use of falsehood and artifice, where these appear expedient.

The natives are not insensible to the advantages of education. They are
fond of having their children in the families of colonists, where they
learn English, and the manners of civilized life, and get plenty to eat.
Probably the parents hope, in this way, to endow their offspring with some
of the advantages which they suppose the white man to possess over the
colored race. So sensible are they of their own inferiority, that if a
person looks sternly in the face of a native, when about to be attacked by
him, and calls out to him loudly, the chances are ten to one that the
native runs away. This effect is analogous to that which the eye of man is
said to exert on the fiercest of savage beasts. The same involuntary and
sad acknowledgment of a lower order of being appears in their whole
intercourse with the whites. Yet such self-abasement is scarcely just; for
the slave-traders, who constitute the specimens of civilized man with whom
the natives have hitherto been most familiar, are by no means on a par
with themselves, in a moral point of view. It is a pity to see such awful
homage rendered to the mere intellect, apart from truth and goodness.

It is a redeeming trait of the native character, so far as it goes, that
women are not wholly without influence in the public councils. If, when a
tribe is debating the expediency of going to war, the women come beneath
the council-tree, and represent the evils that will result, their opinion
will have great weight, and may probably turn the scale in favor of peace.
On the other hand, if the women express a wish that they were men, in
order that they might go to war, the warriors declare for it at once. It
is to be feared, that there is an innate fierceness even in the gentler
sex, which makes them as likely to give their voices for war as for peace.
It is a feminine office and privilege, on the African coast, to torture
prisoners taken in war, by sticking thorns in their flesh, and in various
other modes, before they are put to death. The unfortunate Captain Farwell
underwent three hours of torture, at the hands of the women and children.
So, likewise, did the mate of Captain Burke's vessel, at Sinoe.

The natives are very cruel in their fights, and spare neither age nor sex;
they kill the women and female children, lest they should be the mothers
of future warriors, and the boys, lest they should fight hereafter. If
they take prisoners, it is either to torture them to death, or to sell
them as slaves. The Fishmen have often evinced courage and obstinacy in
war, as was the case in their assaults upon the Liberian settlers, in the
heroic age of the colony, when Ashman and his associates displayed such
warlike ability in defeating them. The Bushmen are as cruel as the former,
but appear to be more cowardly. I have heard the Rev. Mr. Brown, himself
an actor in the scene, relate the story of the fight at Heddington, in
which three colonists, assisted by two women, were attacked at daybreak by
five hundred natives, many of whom were armed with muskets. Zion Harris
and Mr. Demery were the marksmen, while the clergyman assumed the duty of
loading the guns. The natives rushed onward in so dense a crowd, that
almost every bullet and buckshot of the defenders hit its man. The
besieged had but six muskets, one hundred cartridges, and a few charges of
powder. Their external fortifications consisted only of a slight
picket-fence, which might have been thrown down in an instant. But,
fortunately, when there were but three charges of powder left in the
house, a shot killed Gotorap, the chief of the assailants, at whose fall
the whole army fled in dismay. One of the trophies of their defeat was the
kettle which they had brought for the purpose of cooking the missionaries,
and holding a cannibal feast. The battle-field is poetically termed the
bed of honor: but the bravest man might be excused for shrinking from a
burial in his enemy's stomach! Poetry can make nothing of such a fate.

Rude and wretched as is the condition of the natives, it has been affirmed
that many of the Liberian colonists have mingled with them, and preferred
their savage mode of life to the habits of civilisation. Only one instance
of the kind has come to my personal knowledge. We had on board, for two or
three months, a party of Kroomen, among whom was one, dressed like the
rest, but speaking better English. Being questioned, he said that he had
learned English on board of merchant-vessels, where he had been employed
for several years. We took this young man into the ward-room, where he
worked for three months, associating chiefly with the Kroomen on deck,
speaking their language, and perfectly resembling them in his appearance
and general habits. About the time of discharging him, we discovered that
he was a native of North Carolina, had resided many years in Liberia, but,
being idle and vicious, had finally given up the civilized for the savage
state. His real name was Elijah Park; his assumed one, William Henry.




CHAPTER VIII.

Palaver at Sinoe--Ejectment of a Horde of Fishmen--Palaver at Settra
Kroo--Mrs. Sawyer--Objections to the Marriage of Missionaries--A
Centipede--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Rescue of the Sassy Wood-Drinker
Hostilities between the Natives and Colonists.


_November_ 27.--At Sinoe. The settlement here is in a poor condition.
The inhabitants are apparently more ignorant and lazy than the colonists
on any other part of the coast. Yet they have a beautiful and fertile
situation.

28.--The Macedonian and Decatur arrived. Governor Roberts, and other
persons of authority and distinction among the colonists, were passengers,
in order to be present at the intended palaver.

29.--At 9 A.M., thirteen boats left the different ships, armed, and having
about seventy-five marines on board, besides the sailors. Entering the
river, with flags flying and muskets glittering, the boats lay on their
oars until all were in a line, and then pulled at once for the beach, as
if about to charge a hostile battery. The manoeuvre was handsomely
executed, and seemed to give great satisfaction to some thirty colonists
and fifty naked natives, who were assembled on the beach. The officers and
marines were landed, and formed in line, under the direction of Lieutenant
Rich. The music then struck up, while the Commodore and Governor Roberts
slept ashore, and the whole detachment marched to the palaver-house,
which, on this occasion, was the Methodist Church.

The Commodore seated himself behind a small table, which was covered with
a napkin. The officers, with Governor Roberts and Doctor Day, occupied
seats on his right, and the native chiefs, as they dropped in, found
places on the left. If the latter fell short of us in outward pomp and
martial array, they had certainly the advantage of rank, there being about
twenty kings and headmen of the tribes among them. Governor Roberts opened
the palaver in the Commodore's name, informing the assembled chiefs, that
he had come to talk to them about the slaughter of the mate and cook,
belonging to Captain Burke's vessel. Jim Davis, who conducted the palaver
on the part of the natives, professed to know nothing of the matter, the
chiefs present being Bushmen, whereas the party concerned were Fishmen.
After a little exhibition of diplomacy, Davis retired, and Prince Tom came
forward and submitted to an examination. His father is king of the tribe
of Fishmen, implicated in the killing of the two men. The prince denied
any personal knowledge on the subject, but observed that the deed had been
done in war, and that the tribe were not responsible. When asked where
Nippoo was (a chief known to have taken a leading part in the affray), he
at first professed ignorance, but, on being hard pressed, offered to go
and seek him. He was informed, however, that he could not be permitted to
retire, but must produce Nippoo on the spot, or be taken to America.

The council went on. The depositions of three colonists were taken, and
the facts in the case brought out. They were substantially in accordance
with the narrative already given in this Journal; and, upon full
investigation, Captain Burke was decided to have been the aggressor. The
proceedings of the Fishmen had been fierce and savage, but were redeemed
by a quality of wild justice, and exhibited them altogether in a better
light than the white men.

This affair being adjusted, the business of the palaver might be
considered at an end, so far as the American squadron had any immediate
connection with it. But there were points of importance to be settled,
between the natives and the colonists. It was the interest of the latter,
that the Fishmen, residing in the neighborhood of the settlement, should
be ejected from their land, which would certainly be a very desirable
acquisition to the emigrants. It seems, that the land originally belonged
to the Sinoe tribe, whose head-quarters are four miles inland. Several
years ago, long before the arrival of the emigrants, this tribe gave
permission to a horde of Fishmen to occupy the site, but apparently
without relinquishing their own property in the soil. Feeble at first, the
tenants wore a friendly demeanor towards their landlords, and made
themselves useful, until, gradually acquiring strength, they became
insolent, and assumed an attitude of independence. Setting the interior
tribe, of whom they held the land, at defiance, these Fishmen put an
interdict upon their trading with foreigners, except through their own
agency. Eight or ten years ago, however, the inland natives sold the land
to the Colonization Society, subject to the incumbrance of the Fishmen's
occupancy, during good behavior; a condition which the colonists likewise
pledged themselves to the Fishmen to observe, unless the conduct of the
latter should nullify it.

For the last two or three years, the settlement at Sinoe, being neglected
by the Mississippi Society, under whose patronage it was established, has
dwindled and grown weaker in numbers and spirit. The Fishmen, with their
characteristic audacity, have assumed a bolder aspect, and, besides
committing many depredations on the property of the colonists, have
murdered two or three of their number. The murderers, it is true, were
delivered up by the tribe, and punished at the discretion of the Monrovian
authorities; but the colonists at Sinoe felt themselves too feeble to
redress their lighter wrongs, and therefore refrained from demanding
satisfaction. About a month since, an addition of sixty new emigrants was
made to the seventy, already established there. Considering themselves now
adequate to act on the offensive, they determined to drive off the
Fishmen. In this purpose they were confirmed by the Monrovian government;
and it was a part of the governor's business, at the palaver, to provide
for its execution.

Governor Roberts exhibited much sagacity and diplomatic shrewdness in
accomplishing his object. It was obviously important to obtain the
assistance of the Bushmen, in expelling and keeping away the Fishmen.
They, however, were unwilling to take part in the matter, alleging their
fears as an excuse; although it might probably be a stronger reason, that
they could trade more advantageously with merchant-vessels, through the
medium of the Fishmen, than by the agency of the colonists.

But the interposition of the American Commodore, and the affair of the
murder, afforded the Governor the advantage of mixing up that question
with the colonial one; so as to give the natives the impression that
everything was done at the instance and under the authority of our armed
force. This vantage-ground he skilfully made use of, yet not without its
being perceived, by the native politicians, that the question of expelling
the Fishmen was essentially distinct from that of the murder of Captain
Burke's seamen. Davis the interpreter, and one of the headmen of the Sinoe
tribe, inquired why the Commodore did not first talk his palaver, and then
the Governor in turn talk his. It did not suit his excellency's views to
answer; and the question was evaded. By this ingenious policy, the Bushmen
were induced to promise their aid in ridding the settlement of its
troublesome neighbors; while the Fishmen, overawed by the presence of a
force friendly to the colonists, submitted to their expulsion with a
quietude that could not, under other circumstances, have been expected.
Doubtless, they had forfeited their claim to the land by non-observance of
the conditions on which they held it; yet, in some points, the affair had
remarkably the aspect of a forcible acquisition of territory by the
colonists.

No time was lost in carrying the decree of the palaver into execution.
Apprehending hostilities from the squadron, the Fishmen had already
removed most of their property, as well as their women and children, and
had evacuated the town. Governor Roberts, Mr. Brown, Doctor Day, late
government agent, together with a few colonists, repaired to the place and
directed its demolition. This was partially effected by the natives, of
whom some hundreds from the interior were present. They cut down and
unroofed many of the dwellings; and the Governor left directions to burn
every house, if the Fishmen should attempt to re-occupy the town. This
wild horde, therefore, may be considered as permanently ejected from the
ground which they held on so singular a tenure; and thus terminated an
affair which throws a strong light on many of the characteristics of the
natives, and likewise on the relations between them and the emigrants.

_December_ 3.--We sailed, at two o'clock A.M., for Settra Kroo, fifteen
miles down the coast. Anchored at eleven A.M. A boat being sent ashore,
brought news of the death of Mr. Sawyer, the missionary. He left a wife,
now the only white person at the place.

4.--The boats landed at Settra Kroo, to settle a palaver. The matter in
question was the violence offered by the natives to Captain Brown, master
of an American vessel, in striking and attempting to kill him. They
admitted the fact, begged pardon, and agreed to pay ten bullocks, four
sheep, and some fowls, or the value thereof, to Captain Brown, and further
to permit him to trade without payment of the usual "dash." This town is
said to be very superior to any other native settlement on the coast; and
the people are the best informed, most intelligent, and the finest in
personal appearance, that we have met with.

Dined on shore. Mrs. Sawyer presided at the table, although her husband
was buried only yesterday. It is impossible not to look with admiration at
this lady, whose husband and only child have fallen victims to the
climate, yet who believes it her duty to remain alone, upon a barbarous
coast, in a position which perhaps no other woman ever voluntarily
occupied. She is faithful to her trust, as the companion of him who fell
at his post, and is doubtless happy in obedience to the unworldly motives
that guide her determination. Yet I cannot reconcile myself to the idea of
a woman sharing the martyrdom, which seems a proper, and not an
undesirable fate (so it come in the line of his duty) for a man. I doubt
the expediency of sending missionary ladies to perish here. Indeed, it may
well be questioned whether a missionary ought, in any country, to be a
married man. The care of a family must distract his attention and weaken
his efficiency; and herein, it may be, consists one great advantage which
the Catholic missionary possesses over the Protestant. He can penetrate
into the interior; he can sleep in the hut, and eat the simple food of a
native. But, if there be a wife and children, they must have houses and a
thousand other comforts, which are not only expensive and difficult to
obtain, but are clogs to keep the missionary down to one spot. I know how
much the toil and suffering of man is alleviated, in these far-off
regions, by the tenderness of woman. But the missionary is, by his
profession, a devoted man; he seeks, in this life, not his own happiness,
but the eternal good of others. Compare him with the members of my own
profession. We are sustained by no such lofty faith as must be supposed to
animate him, yet we find it possible to spend years upon the barren deep,
exposed to every variety of climate, and seeking peril wherever it may be
found--and all without the aid of woman's ministrations. Can a man, vowed
to the service of a Divine Master, think it much to practise similar
self-denial?

5.--This morning, while performing my ablutions with a large sponge, a
centipede, four and a half inches long, crawled out of one of the
orifices, and, ran over my hand. The venomous reptile was killed, without
any harm being done. It had probably been hidden in one of a number of
large land-shells, which I brought on board a day or two ago. His touch
upon my hand was the most disagreeable sensation that I have yet
experienced in Africa.

For a month past it has rained almost every night, but only three or four
times during the day. The tornadoes have not troubled us, and the regular
land and sea-breezes prevail.

6.--At 4 P. M., anchored off Cape Palmas. The Decatur had hardly clewed up
her top-sails, when she was directed by signal to make sail again. Shortly
afterwards, a boat from the frigate brought us intelligence that there is
trouble here between the natives and the colonists. The boats are ordered
to be in readiness to go ashore to-morrow, in order to settle a palaver.
The Decatur has gone to Caraway to protect the missionaries there. Thus we
are in a fair way to have plenty of work, palavering with the natives and
protecting the colonists. Not improbably, the latter have felt encouraged,
by the presence of our squadron, to assume a higher tone towards the
natives than heretofore. But we shall see.

8.--We landed, this morning, with nine armed boats, to examine into the
difficulties above alluded to. The first duty that it fell to our lot to
perform, was one of humanity. We had scarcely reached Governor Russwurm's
house, when, observing a crowd of people about a mile off, on the beach,
we learned that a man was undergoing the ordeal of drinking sassy-wood.
The Commodore, with most of the officers, hastened immediately to the
rescue. On approaching the spot, we saw a woman with an infant on her
back, walking to and fro, wailing bitterly, and throwing up her arms in
agony. Further on, we met four children, from eight to twelve years of
age, crying loudly as they came towards us, and apparently imploring us to
save their father. Beyond them, and as near the crowd as she dared go,
stood a young woman, supporting herself on a staff, with the tears
streaming down her cheeks, while she gazed earnestly at the spot where her
husband was suffering. Although she took no notice of us, her low moans
were more impressive than the vociferous agony of the former woman; and we
could not but suppose that the man was peculiarly amiable in the domestic
relations, since his impending fate awakened more grief in the hearts of
_two_ wives, than, in civilized life, we generally see exhibited by one.
Meeting a colonist, with intelligence that the victim was nearly dead, we
quickened our pace to a fast run.

Before we could reach the spot, however, the man had been put into a
canoe, and paddled out into a lagoon by one of the party, while the
remainder moved on to meet us. The Commodore ordered two of the leaders to
be seized and kept prisoners, until the drinker of sassy-wood should be
given up. This had the desired effect; and, in half an hour, there came to
the Government House a hard-featured man of about fifty, escorted by a
crowd, no small portion of which was composed of his own multifarious
wives and children, all displaying symptoms of high satisfaction. He
looked much exhausted, but was taken into the house and treated medically,
with the desired success. When sufficiently recovered he will be sent to a
neighboring town, where he must remain, until permitted by the customs of
his people to return. He had been subjected to the ordeal, in order to
test the truth or falsehood of an accusation brought against him, of
having caused the death of a man of consequence, by incantations and
necromantic arts. In such cases, a strong decoction of the sassy-wood bark
is the universally acknowledged medium of coming at the truth. The natives
believe that the tree has a supernatural quality, potent in destroying
witches and driving out evil spirits; nor, although few escape, do the
accused persons often object to quaffing the deadly draught. If it fail to
operate fatally, it is generally by the connivance of those who administer
it, in concocting the potion of such strength that the stomach shall
reject it. Should the suspected wizard escape the operation of the
sassy-wood, it is customary to kill him by beating on the head with clubs
and stones; his property is forfeited; and the party accusing him feast on
the cattle of their victim. The man whom we rescued had taken a gallon of
the decoction the previous evening, and about the same quantity just
before we interrupted the ordeal. His wealth had probably excited the envy
of his accusers.

We had just returned to the Government House and were about to seat
ourselves at the dinner-table, when an alarm-gun was heard from Mount
Tubman. A messenger soon arrived to say that the natives were attempting
to force their way through the settlement, to the Cape. The marines,
together with all the officers who could be spared, were instantly on the
march. The Commodore and Governor Russwurm led the force, on horseback;
the flag-lieutenant and myself being the only other officers fortunate
enough to procure animals. Mine was the queerest charger on which a knight
ever rode to battle; a little donkey, scarcely high enough to keep my feet
from the ground; so lazy that I could only force him into a trot by the
continual prick of my sword; and so vicious that he threw me twice, in
requital of my treatment. The rest of the detachment footed it four miles,
on a sandy road, and under the scorching sun. On the way we overtook
several armed colonists, hurrying to the point of danger. Passing the foot
of Mount Vaughan we reached Mount Tubman, and, ascending a steep, conical
hill, found ourselves on a level space of a hundred yards in diameter,
with a strong picket-fence surrounding it, and a solitary house in the
centre. Fifteen or sixteen armed men were on the watch, as conscious of
the neighborhood of an enemy; the piazza was crowded with women and
children; and from the interior of the house came the merry voices of
above a score of little boys and girls, ignorant of danger, and enjoying a
high frolic. Apart, by the wall, sat a blind man, grasping his staff with
a tremulous hand; and near him lay a sick woman, who had been brought in
from a neighboring farm-house. All these individuals, old and young, had
been driven hither for refuge by the alarm of war.

Not far off, we beheld tokens that an attack had been made, and sternly
resisted by the little garrison of the stockade. On the side opposite the
Cape, a steep path rose towards the gate. Some twenty yards down this
passage lay a native, dead, with an ugly hole in his scull; and, in a
narrow path to the right, was stretched another, who had met his death
from a bullet-wound in the centre of his forehead. The ball had cut the
ligature which bound his "greegree" of shells around his head, and the
faithless charm lay on the ground beside him. Already, the flies were
beginning to cluster about the dead man's mouth. The attacking party, to
which these slain individuals belonged, were of the Barroky tribe. It is
supposed that, knowing King Freeman to be at variance with the colonists,
and hearing the salute in honor of the Commodore's landing, they mistook
it for the commencement of hostilities, and came in to support the native
party and gather spoil.

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President Obama teams up with one of Marvel's greatest heroes, reports Alison Flood

Here's Michael Wolff, still doing the rounds promoting his Rupert Murdoch biography, The man who owns the news. This interview with Jon Stewart is fun. It starts off with Wolff saying: "You wanna start a rumour, tell Rupert. He's the biggest gossip I've ever met." And there's an amusing pay-off too. (Via Comedy Central/The E&P Pub)

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Poetry Workshop creature features

For many years my local corner shop displayed a large sign in its window telling local residents to "use us or lose us!" It always looked a rather toothless threat to me. After all, if I didn't use them, what difference would it make to me if they weren't there? And surely a corner shop, one that had been there for years, would have enough customers to survive without recourse to such apocalyptic warning? But it didn't and was soon converted into flats.

This community shop was destroyed not so much by the pressures of the supermarkets or people's commuting patterns, but simply by customer apathy. It's something to think about as crime writers and readers across the world mourn the imminent passing of Maxim Jakubowski's celebrated Charing Cross Road bookshop in London, Murder One.

Apathy is a strange word to connect to a bookstore that thrives on passion. It's noticeable when you walk through the door, when you speak to the friendly, knowledgeable staff, when you look at the shelves and see the vast range of titles on offer. This isn't your regular kind of bookstore: the first time I visited spent a whole lunch break looking up and down, from floor to ceiling from table to table; it was an hour that changed my perception of both crime writing and of bookselling.

Murder One was – and for a few weeks will remain – a shop that took crime seriously. Not in the sense that it intellectualised it, or made unsubstantiated claims for its importance, but in the way that it treated crime writing with the respect it was due. With a genre that has so many off-shoots, branches and sub-genres, it took a shop of Murder One's calibre to show just how diverse, interesting and mentally stimulating crime could be – far more than the guilty pleasure I had, until then, considered it.

Thanks to judicious recommendations, enticing table displays and hours of foraging among the stacks, I discovered writers that I would never have picked up, let alone read. You could always get the latest blockbuster, but delve a little deeper and you'd find books that were not stocked anywhere else, novels that, like the perfect crime, were hidden from public view. The Martin Beck novels by Sjöwall & Wahlöö – probably my favourite sequence of novels in any genre – were introduced to me via Murder One, as were Kem Nunn, Sue Grafton, and Henning Mankell. It's also the staff of Murder One who piqued my interest in the inimitable Fred Vargas, and I can't thank them enough for the introduction.

Inclusive and without snobbery, Murder One amply demonstrated that the best bookshops are places not just of commerce, but of community; places that make feel you belong. It's the kind of store that bibliophiles dream about: well-stocked, well-staffed and shabby enough to lose days browsing within. It's just unfortunate that such shops don't have enough paying customers to keep them afloat, or that these customers visit all too infrequently – something of which I'm certainly guilty.

These kinds of shops are facing a long, bloody battle – and one which, without significant reinforcements, they are likely to lose. As we hear of the travesty of another brilliant independent going down, we'll mourn the loss, wring our hands and damn Amazon and the supermarkets and Waterstone's. Yet perhaps the most important detail we'll probably keep under wraps: the last time we actually spent any money there.

Murder One closing its doors for the final time is undoubtedly a .38 shell for independent bookshops, but whether it's body blow or a warning shot all depends upon us, the consumers. No one, no matter how iconic or established, can exist on fond memories alone: just ask Woolworths. Use these shops now, because it doesn't take a master sleuth to deduce what will happen if we don't.

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In focus: Liz Jobey looks at the work of photographic printer Richard Benson
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