Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

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_Thursday, May 23_.--The cattle are looking so different this year; the
men say they have not seen so much grass at this time of the year for
years. When Mr. Keytel was here he showed the men how to shoot an ox,
dispatching one with his first shot. I am glad to say that since that they
have tried to do the same. The men are longing for a ship as they have run
out of tobacco. Scarcely any one possesses matches now, so we have
constant requests for them.

We have begun asking two at a time of the older people to have tea with us
on Wednesdays. The younger married people we shall ask to supper, as they
do not mind coming out at night. This afternoon we had old Caroline Swain
who is seventy-nine and her sister Mary Glass who is ten years younger.
Caroline has been more or less of an invalid for many years. We glean much
of the past history of the island from the old people. They have been
telling us of the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh in the _Galatea_ in 1867,
in honour of whom the Settlement is called Edinburgh. They remember well
his having dinner in this room, and how while he was having it, all
unknown to him they vied with one another in trying on his hat.

In view of having an entertainment, we are teaching the girls some of the
"Golden Boat songs" as well as recitations which the boys also are
learning. It is rather an effort, but we think it will give pleasure.
Some of the infants are learning "Three little kittens" and say it
charmingly.

[Illustration: CATTLE, NEAR POTATO PATCHES]

_Wednesday, May 29_.--To-day has been a fete day. It is Will Swain's
birthday. He is one of the two young men lately returned from the Cape
which, I suppose, accounts for the festivities being on such a grand
scale. Two sheep were killed, and the Swains gave a dinner to every one on
the island. The elders had dinner at the Hagans' who have the largest
room, and the children at Susan Swain's. They sent us a cooked chicken for
our dinner.

_Saturday, June 8_.--So far we have had a much better winter than last
year, there has been more sunshine and less wind.

Graham is gradually getting the meteorological apparatus up. He and
Repetto have put in the garden what resembles a meat-safe. It is the
screen for the thermometers. I objected to its being placed in the middle
of the garden, and so it has been removed lower down where it cannot be
seen from the house, rather, I fear, to Repetto's regret who regards it as
a very desirable ornament.

_Friday, June 14_.--Today William has been getting kelp to put on our
garden. As the gate into the garden is not large enough for the cart to
pass through a portion of the wall had to be pulled down.

_Thursday, June 20_.--Last Sunday evening Mr. And Mrs. Repetto came in.
After a talk we had reading aloud and sang some hymns. One wishes one
could be of more real help to the people. Yesterday we had old Eliza Hagan
and Lucy Green to tea. Ellen sang to them some of Moody and Sankey's hymns
to the accompaniment of her autoharp. Graham told them we thought of
camping out a night or two on the mountain; at which they were much
concerned and tried hard to dissuade us. At last Eliza said a comfortable
air of conviction, "Mumma won't go with Puppa." He conveyed them home one
on either arm, both being rather decrepit.

_Saturday, June 22_.--We are having a spell of cold weather, and snow is
to be seen on the top of the mountain. It is more like our winter at home.
Fortunately there is not much wind.

_Thursday, June 27_.--Today the men have all been working on a patch of
ground near here, just across the Big Watering, which Henry has let us
have for wheat. It has to be sown this month. They seem pleased to do it.
They have been fairly busy lately cutting a large quantity of wood for the
winter, which is piled near their houses. Old Sam Swain and Tom Rogers go
out every month fishing in order to find out for Mr. Keytel when the fish
are at their best.

Last night we had Tom and his mother to supper. She appeared soon after 5
o'clock and they stayed till about 9. We had fish cakes and a semolina
mould with jam. Tom much enjoyed playing Tiddley Winks, and I think would
have gone on happily till midnight. We ended the evening with a hymn and
prayers.

_Saturday, June 29_.--We have spent the afternoon in the garden moving
some of the Eucalyptus plants. Several are over a foot high and have very
long tap-roots. We cannot plant them in any other garden, as the people
say they would infect the soil with the white mould which is all over this
garden. This mould has already rotted the roots of one or two. Ned and
Charlie helped me to weed and to put small stones round the bed for a
border. Little Charlie pulled up some Love-in-a-mist thinking it was a
weed. When he found out what he had done, he turned away and buried his
face in his arm and wept. We tried to console him, but it was some time
before he could get over it. "He's skeered," said Ned.

_Wednesday, July 3_.--We have a little handmaid, Mary Repetto. She is
delighted to come and is most capable. She comes for an hour twice a day,
and receives a shilling a week. Early this morning Ben had a return of his
fits, which seem rather worse this time; he has had five today. His sister
Mrs. H. Green is much better. On Monday I took her to the wheatfield to
help me to sow. We sowed the seed broadcast while Graham and her husband
raked it in.

_Friday, July 5_.--We had our entertainment yesterday at five. I think
every one was present with the exception of old Caroline Swain. I found
out just at the last that the children were not changing their clothes, so
I bustled them off home to do so. The whole affair lasted about one hour
and a half and was the first of the kind the people had had on the island.
Graham began with a reading, "Harry" from the Gordon League Ballads, and
caused much laughter when he curtsied as Jim's wife did before the Queen.
Some of the recitations were rather feeble, but perhaps we only were
conscious of it. William in one piece was much pleased with shouldering
Graham's gun, and when the auspicious moment came for him to pretend to
shoot (a small boy at his side letting off a cap pistol), he looked quite
white in the face. In "We are little sailors," the girls very effectually
used pocket-handkerchiefs for sails. In another song they had to march,
clap, and jump. The big girls enjoyed it quite as much as the younger.
Charlotte Swain, who is rather fat, could not jump for laughing, and
said, "I shall laugh a lot more yet." We finished with the National
Anthem, which was quite new to them.

_Thursday, July 18_.--It is a long time since I have written in my diary,
but I have twenty letters waiting to be dispatched. We have been even
longer this year than last without being able to communicate with a ship.
It is just four months since the schooner left. Every one is longing for a
ship. The people are short of soap, but we have been able to give them a
little.

We have been having decidedly cold weather which has told upon the young
lambs, several having died at night.

A day or two ago I said to Robert Lavarello, a boy of ten who is supposed
to be somewhat of a cook, "Could you make a loaf of bread?" "Yes," he
answered, "I think I could." "Well," I said, "try, and bring the loaf for
me to see." The next morning he appeared before breakfast triumphantly
bearing a plate with a loaf on it covered with a white cloth to which was
pinned the Italian tricolour. His cheeks glowed with pleasure as he
displayed the loaf kneaded and baked by himself. It was far more
successful than one I had baked that morning which had burst when taken
out of the tin and which I was careful to keep in the background! As a
reward he was presented with a tin of jam and a large leek which we heard
was much enjoyed by his father, who ate it raw.

The Repettos came to supper last night. She looked so elegant in a muslin
blouse, and with a very pretty print handkerchief, decorated with Swiss
chalets and edelweiss, on her head. For supper we had fish soup thickened
with vegetables, stewed apricots and tea. Our guests always eat so
sparingly.

CHAPTER XXI

_Thursday, July 25_.--Sitting at breakfast we heard the joyful sound
"Sail, ho!" We jumped up to look and then settled down to writing. The men
were out at their potato patches, and when they got back decided not to
try for the ship as she was too far east to be caught. Our hope of a ship
is always raised after a north-west wind which appears to blow ships this
way. But on many days this month had one come it would have been
impossible for the boats to have gone out, as it was either too rough at
sea or there was too much surf.

_Friday, July 26_.--Mrs. Repetto, who came in to ask me to show her how to
knit my kind of heel, told me the men could have caught the ship yesterday
if they had liked, but they "dallied about." If Repetto had been here I
think perhaps a boat would have gone as I know he is anxious to get his
letters off. In answer to a request from him Mr. B---- of Drogheda,
Ireland, has sent a beautiful pig-skin satchel to be used as post-bag when
going off to ships. It is a real boon, as the letters so often got wet.

A great number of illustrated papers was brought by the _Greyhound_, which
we enjoy looking through when too lazy for harder work. There were also
some _Fortnightly_ and _National Reviews_, and the _Nineteenth Century_,
which Graham enjoys and sometimes reads aloud to me. He gets through more
general reading than at home. Wet days are spent by him in opening cases
and arranging the contents in the loft in most precise order. Woe betide
us if we disarrange anything.

The entertainment we had was so much enjoyed the people would like to have
it again, so perhaps at the next full moon we may repeat it.

_Friday, August 2_.--We had the entertainment last night. At a rehearsal
in the morning we made several improvements in the pieces. The "Hen and
her Chickens" was charming. The tiniest children sat on the floor grouped
round the clucking hen as her chicks, and when she got up to go they
followed, giving delightful little jumps until they disappeared with her
into the next room. Then another piece, "Thomas and his Donkey," was
improved--at least so the audience thought--by the donkey suddenly
kicking up his heels and throwing his rider, who lay sprawling on the
floor. I think the people, especially the men, find the winter evenings
long. Most of them go to bed betimes. Whenever we look out of our passage
window long before we are thinking of going to bed ourselves, no lights
are to be seen in the houses, unless it is Repetto's, who reads in bed
when he can get oil.

Poor little Jock is having such bad fits. We sometimes think we shall have
to put an end to him.

The thermometer registered 44-1/2 degrees last night. There was a cry of
"Sail, ho!" raised this morning, but the supposed ship turned out to be a
cloud. We have learnt to take these cries calmly for they often end in
nothing.

_Saturday, August 10_.--On Wednesday we gave the school a holiday. It came
about in this way. Will Swain arranged with Bill Green that they two
should give Graham a treat. He was to try his hand at driving a team of
oxen. The treat was quite a success. They fetched two loads of wood which
had been cut and left on the hillside about four miles off. The load has
to be built up very carefully. For the foundation a strong spreading
branch is chosen with the trunk end turning up like the runners of a
sleigh. This branch is called the "rider," and on it are piled the other
branches to the height of about four feet. The load is bound together by
cords, and the oxen attached to it by a strong chain. Graham managed to
drive his load without upsetting it and with only the loss of one piece.
The load was a present to us, and was, we believe, a delicate return for
money lent the two men to buy spades with when the _Greyhound_ was here.
Graham had said they could work it out by digging the wheat-field, but as
"all hands" did that, probably the two thought they would like to give the
wood.

Today William brought in a bird which he called a "Starchy," but which is
just like our old friend the garden thrush. He says there are lots of them
on the hill. They have no song.

A great many of the Eucalyptus trees have died. We think we ought to have
transplanted them earlier, but were told that July was the right month and
so waited until then.

_Wednesday, August 14_.--We are awaiting our usual Wednesday guests. On
these occasions I always wear a white skirt and blouse. Of our friends,
Mrs. Repetto is the only one who has attempted any elegance, most have
come in jackets. Yesterday, I am sorry to say, she had another heart
attack. The children came down for some brandy. We went up to see her and
she seemed only half-conscious. I thought a hot bottle might do her good,
so went home to get one. This morning when I went in she was up and lying
in a deck-chair in front of the fire. It is difficult to know what these
attacks of pain at the heart arise from. I believe they begin with
shivering.

On Monday, as I was going up to school, I saw Eliza Hagan waiting about.
Soon I heard "Mumma," and then followed an invitation to four-o'clock tea
that day, and as I was going, "Puppa must come too" was called out.
Accordingly we appeared punctually at the hour named. A table was spread
with a white cloth. Susan Hagan, Rebekah, and Willie Swain were present,
but only four partook of the tea, our hostess, Mrs. Lucy Green, who lives
in the house, and ourselves. We sat on a bench drawn up to the table which
was graced by a most excellent cake, and we learnt that a quantity of
butter and six eggs had been used in the making of it. The large room was
lit by a very dim light. Ellen was invited next day.

_Friday, August 16_.--We have been up to the top of Bugsby Hole again. We
had taken Ellen, and on our return found William had been thoughtful
enough to feed the fowls, boil some water at his home and make us tea. He
had also fetched a load of wood as a present. Of his own accord at morning
prayers he always places our Bibles on the table ready for us.

We have now been five months without a ship.

_Thursday, August 22_.--Early this morning we were greeted by the news
that a steamer was passing in the far distance and could just be
discerned. The sea was far too rough for the men to think of going out.
But it is something even to see a ship. Perhaps another will follow.

We are having quite a cold spell of weather with a bitter wind. After
school I went down to the seashore to take some photographs, as there was
a fine sea with rather grand effects.

Graham went for a walk on the shore this afternoon, taking little Jock,
who unfortunately picked up a stinging fish; Graham got it from him, but
was too late to prevent its stinging him. He gave little squeals, and
finally fell down as if dead. Graham picked him up and made for home. On
the top of the cliff he stopped to rest, where, upon being put down Jock
opened his eyes, when Graham rubbed him, and before long he came round and
seemed quite himself again.

_Saturday, August 24_.--This has been an exciting day. I was baking bread
when there came a quick tap at the passage window. Mrs. Bob Green had run
down to tell us there was a steamer to the west. I at once got out the
letters, added hasty post-scripts and dated them. Graham soon came
hurrying in and also began to write. He made up his mind to go as the sea
was very smooth. Two boats put off. From the higher ground we could see
the steamer, which was coming along very slowly. The boats had a good long
wait for it. When it came up our men were allowed on board and stayed for
about an hour. It was making its first voyage and was bound for Bombay,
but was calling at Durban. We, therefore, hope our letters will reach
England the first week in October. Graham said the Peak, seen from the
water, was covered with snow. The thermometer lately has now and again
been as low as 44 degrees.

We find we are sixty-five minutes behind time. The people had told us our
clocks were slow. The Hagans have on their doorstep a sun-mark cut by a
shipwrecked captain, from which they can tell the time. Only a few
families own clocks.

_Monday, August 26_.--Poor little Jock is no more. He did not turn up for
his breakfast, but I thought perhaps he was having a game with John
Glass's puppy. When we came back from morning service I went in search of
him but could not find him. Just before lunch Susan Repetto ran in to tell
us as she was driving the geese across the Big Watering she had found him
lying dead in the water. We went to look, and there a little way up the
stream, was poor little Jock. He had no doubt had a fit and rolled down
the bank.

We are revolving in our minds the question of having to stay with us from
Tuesday till Saturday one of the younger girls of each family by turn. The
child could quite well sleep on the sofa. Ellen is anxious we should have
them and would bathe them and do their hair. We think this plan might
teach them ways of cleanliness and in other respects influence them for
good. When at school I often have to dispatch a scholar to the stream. It
is surprising what a presentable appearance the people have, but we want
them to have something more.

We were so amused on Sunday by three boys, just before morning service,
bringing this message from William, "Would Mr. Barrow lend him his boots
to go to church in?" Ellen's reply was short: "This is not a boot shop,"
and tickled the little boys immensely. Many and various have been the
requests, but I think that one surpasses them all. One day a small child
was sent to borrow our broom. An old one was lent which has not been seen
again. Several of our goods are already bespoken in view of our departure
eighteen months hence.

The dogs have been worrying and killing sheep, and yesterday drove three
into the sea, where they were drowned. As a result several of the dogs
have been shot. Complaints were made to Repetto about his dogs, and half
in temper he picked up his white fox-terrier and hammered it to death, as
he thought, and threw it into the tussock. In a few days it crawled back
to the house and had to be shot. Animal life is little thought of here. It
is no wonder the dogs prey as they do, for many are half famished.

_Thursday, August 29_.--Rose Swain came to stay with us yesterday. She was
a little tearful at first, but as she is only seven this was but natural.
In appearance she might be an English child, having a fair skin and light
wavy hair. She is not very strong, but is quick in learning.

_Saturday, August 31_.--This week the men have been building one or two
huts at the potato patches as they have there no shelter from the rain.
They are actually putting in fire-places. The people often get wet, and as
a consequence suffer a good deal from lumbago, which they call "the
stitch."

Ellen has begun a class for little boys and girls on Sunday afternoon. She
is also taking in hand Caroline Swain, the oldest inhabitant, whom she
calls for each Sunday to take to church, and again on Tuesdays to take her
to the women's meeting; for which attention her old friend is very
grateful.

At the end of afternoon service there is a practice for the next Sunday.
Two or three weeks ago we tried part-singing much to the pleasure of the
men, who now all come up to the front. What they need is a man's voice to
lead them. Ellen and I do what we can, but it is rather a case of the
blind leading the blind.

_Thursday, September 5_.--On Tuesday we saw a number of people running
eastward, and meeting some one he told us Graham had seen a sea-elephant
on Big Beach and had gone to shoot it. It appears he had started for a
short walk on the cliffs, and seeing something dark lying on the beach,
went down there, and saw what looked like a sea-elephant. He ran home for
his gun and sent word to the men. Returning to the beach he shot it. When
the elder men saw it, one or two said it was a sea-leopard, and such it
proved to be. It was the _stenorhyncus leptonyx_, the most powerful seal
of the Antarctic, and a rare visitor to Tristan, only two others having
been seen by the islanders. It had short, light-grey hair, in parts
turning to green, and measured in length ten and a half feet.

We have been having very cold weather, and yesterday morning the
thermometer registered 40 degrees. Several slight snowstorms passed over
the settlement and left their traces on the hills. It is many years since
snow has fallen so low down.

We have little Edith Swain staying with us. Her mother was rather doubtful
about her coming, but hearing, I think, that Rose was happy, she decided
to let her come, and sent her looking very tidy. The child seems quite
contented and happy and is no trouble. Each little guest goes back with a
new undergarment.

_Saturday, September 7_.--I think people at home would be amused with the
contents of our sitting-room, which at present has to be kitchen and
larder. On a side-table are a ham in pickle, a goose, butter and eggs; on
the fire an array of pots, and around it clothes airing for the Sabbath.
The fact is the kitchen stove-pipe has collapsed. Repetto is trying to
make a new piping out of oil drums. We turn out most excellent bread now,
so that our many failures of the past have somewhat sunk into oblivion.

Early this morning I was called by Mrs. Lavarello to her boy Robert who
had injured his leg in cutting flax. The cut was a bad one and ought to
have been stitched; I did not attempt that, but washed and bandaged it and
left injunctions that he should give it complete rest.

CHAPTER XXII

_Tuesday, September 10_.--We had the pleasure of seeing a ship today. The
weather was anything but good for going out, and after they reached the
shore two or three of the men decided not to go. It was really hardly fit
and got more squally as the day went on. The ship, it was evident, wanted
to call. When the boats got fairly near a squall came on and they nearly
missed her. Indeed, they turned to come home, but the captain saw them and
brought his ship round. She was the _Loch Katrine_, which called here last
year and took our second batch of letters. The men returned home in one
boat, having left the other at the Penguin Rookery some way east. They had
a hard pull up from there and they and their goods were wet through. When
we were at supper Henry Green came in with presents from the captain: a
tin of Danish butter, two packets of compressed hops, and an especial
packet for myself containing some Brown Windsor soap and a sprig of
heather--a charming thought. I had another parcel from the steward, who
sent soap and a bottle of scent. Our kettle has begun to leak, so we asked
Repetto to try for one from the ship; and the captain kindly gave him a
good old copper one, which, though it has a hole, we think will do us good
service, for our men are very clever at mending their pots and kettles.

Rob did a dreadful deed yesterday. Graham and I had taken him with us for
a walk up the hill, sitting down several times to have a talk. As we got
up to return we suddenly missed him, and whistled. Just then Johnny Green
and Arthur Rogers came in sight and called out "Rob has killed a sheep."
We could not believe it for he had been gone only a minute or two, but he
answered the whistle and then we saw the blood on his mouth and knew it
was only too true. If only the boys had called out sooner we should have
been in time to save the poor sheep's life. It is rather a blow to us, for
if he does this sort of thing he will have to be shot, and that would be
dreadful for he is such a faithful old fellow. Unfortunately, it is not
the first time he has attacked a sheep; last week, when he was out with
William, he ran after one; William, hearing a barking, ran to look and
found his dog and Rob attacking. He gave Rob a whipping and sent him home
and, although it was a long way, home he came. Since then we have been
keeping an eye upon him. Mrs. Martha Green, the owner, was very nice about
it and refused any compensation, but Graham left a sovereign on the table.
It so happened the sheep was a lame one, or "a little sick," as the
expression is here.

To-day we left school early and soon after noon were on our way to the
potato patches where Graham wanted to help Repetto. We found quite a party
there, the whole Repetto family with Alfred Green and William. They had
just brewed tea. Mrs. Repetto was sitting under the lee of the wall, where
a stone with a sack on it was placed for me. She was knitting, so I
brought out mine. I am always impressed by her rugged and strong
character. Certainly her children do not "best" her, as she is fond of
saying. Arthur refused to do his work, that of putting manure in the
trench. She just got up and gave him a good "hammering," mostly on his
head and arms. He soon set to work. She is fond and proud of her children,
but they know what is in store for them if they do not obey. The
chastisement, no doubt, is deserved, but I wish she would learn to give it
calmly and moderately. This is her week for serving us and almost daily
she sends something extra. She will not accept anything in return.

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