Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

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[Illustration: LANDING GOODS]

On Monday the boats made several journeys to the schooner and got on
well with the unloading. Nothing more is to be done until Mr. Keytel
has visited Gough Island. He expects to be away about a fortnight. On
Tuesday morning the schooner came in well, and all were on the shore
ready to embark for Gough Island, which is about two hundred miles to the
south-east. Mr. Keytel was keen upon Graham going, and as nearly all our
men are going and he may not have such an opportunity again he decided to
accept his kind offer and go. By the time the boats were launched the
schooner began to move further out, the sea waking up a little. Before
long she was lost to sight and after a vain chase the three boats came
back. It was most trying for Mr. Keytel, for every day lost is a
consideration to him.

The Repettos are very much upset because some of the new-comers are trying
to take their house. Yesterday just before embarking two of them
threateningly said they meant to have it, and one took off his coat to
fight Repetto. This is the house whose ownership is disputed, several
people claiming shares in it, the mother of the young man who wanted to
fight claiming the most. She used to live in it and when she left the
island begged the Repettos to leave the one in which they were living and
to go into hers and take care of it for her. The young man has not
produced any letter or paper from his mother to the effect that she wishes
the Repettos to give up occupation. We have told the Repettos they need
not be afraid and that if they do not retaliate Graham and Mr. Keytel will
stand by them and see that right is done.

_Friday, March_ 27.--The winds are still against the schooner putting in.

One of the Bob Glass children has been seriously ill and delirious, the
result it is thought of a fall or a sunstroke. I went to see it and
advised a dose of castor-oil. Going again in the afternoon I found the
child up and standing outside the front door, apparently well. The mother
had been up all night and quite thought she was going to lose him.

_Saturday, March_ 28.--To-day matters came to a climax about the Repettos'
house. The two men started taking possession by mending a hole in the
roof. Ellen pointed them out to me as we were coming home from church. I
thought I had better go back and let Graham know what they were doing. He
went out at once and asked them if they had Repetto's leave to do the
work. They said, "No." "Then," said Graham, "I cannot let you do it."
Meanwhile as I passed the door Repetto said he had something he wanted to
show me, would I come in. I could see they were both very upset. Soon John
Glass, who had been helping the men on the roof, came in looking, I
thought, a little ashamed. I told him he had made a mistake in having
anything to do with the business, and said, "How would you like it if some
one were to come and work on your roof without asking you first?" He said
he would not like it. I told him the best thing he could do was to go home
and have nothing more to do with it, and he went. Then his brother, Joe
Glass, who was really the instigator of it all, came and looked over the
door. I gave him, too, a piece of my mind, and after a time he went away.
Presently the young man appeared looking very menacing. He walked up to
his cousin, Mrs. Repetto, showing his fists. I was dreadfully afraid she
might lose her temper and strike him, and then I do not know what might
have happened. I rushed off for Graham, who was taking school, and he came
at once. He told the young man if he could satisfy him that he had his
mother's authority to take the house he should have it, after the Repettos
had been given a reasonable time to find another. If he could not so
satisfy him then the Repettos would remain in possession. He went on to
say he was here as a clergyman with the knowledge and consent of the
Government; that it was his duty to do his best to prevent any breach of
the peace and that he intended to do so. He would see that justice was
done just as a magistrate would. He warned him and all that if there were
any further disturbance those causing it would run the risk of being sent
from the island, for he should report the whole matter to the Government.
Things now began to calm down and Graham went back to school. Poor Mrs.
Repetto had quite broken down, and at sight of her it was as much as her
husband could do to keep his temper. But they spoke very nicely to the
young man and said if he had a paper from his mother saying he was to have
the house, of course they would give it up; and if he liked they would
give up their bedroom to him in any case. Then Repetto went outside with
him and said he wanted to be his friend, not his enemy. Finally the young
man came back and said he was very sorry for the way he had behaved and
that they should hear no more about the house, and went up and kissed Mrs.
Repetto and her mother. Then he shook hands with me and said how sorry he
was and that there should be no more trouble. The Repettos said to me
afterwards we have never seen anything like this before on the island,
asking for forgiveness as he did. If there had been any angry words in the
first instance from them there would no doubt have been a fight.

_Tuesday, March_ 3l.--The men have all been busy to-day roofing a small
empty one-roomed house for Joe Glass which Andrew Hagan is said to have
sold him for L10.

This afternoon Graham and Mr. Keytel have been looking at a small disused
house near here which Henry Green uses as a lamb-house, and which Mr.
Keytel thinks will do for him if Henry will let him have it. Till a house
is ready for him he will, I hope, remain with us.

The schooner, which has been out a week, has not yet been seen.

_Wednesday, April_ 1.--She has been sighted this afternoon. A day or two
ago there was a gale, which probably blew her a long way out. The poor
captain must be having rather a bad time.

_Thursday, April_ 2.--She came in to-day and Mr. Keytel has started for
Gough Island. Several of the men did not want to go, pleading colds as an
excuse. Mr. Keytel had to go round and work them up, and they finally all
went except John Glass. It has taken us a long time to really know the
people. They are very pleasant and kind, but everything is not as it
appears on the surface.

_Friday, April_ 3.--This has been a most beautiful day. It seemed a pity
not to make the most of it, so we decided to go westward, taking a donkey.
The Repettos said we might have theirs, but as it took Arthur four hours
to catch it we did not get off till noon. We were glad to lunch under the
shadow of a rock, for it was really hot. Then we went for another mile or
two, tethered the donkey, and rested. After brewing some tea we started
for home just as the sun was setting in a cloudless sky. We mean to go on
such expeditions every now and then, as they freshen us up for the daily
round.

_Saturday, April_ 4.--Last night Glass came to say that old Caroline, his
aunt, was much worse and to ask if Graham would go and read to her. Graham
found her very ill, but conscious and able to understand what was said. He
told Glass to come again in the night if necessary. About 11 o'clock he
came again to tell us Caroline was dying. Graham hurried up and went
across, but she had passed away. That evening she had asked Mrs. Lavarello
to read to her her favourite hymn, "How sweet the name of Jesus sounds in
a believer's ear."

It was thought necessary to have the funeral to-day, to-morrow being
Sunday. Graham helped Glass as much as he could in making the coffin. The
great difficulty was to find wood for it; the lid was made of fourteen
pieces. Graham lined the coffin and I painted the name, age and date on
it. The two elder boys, Alfred and William, worked at the grave, and very
well they did it. Alfred was not really up to the work, having been ill,
but he would not give in. Graham and Glass finished the digging. Mrs. Bob
Glass has been quite a stand-by for the women. The funeral was at four
o'clock. Glass and the three boys were the bearers, and managed very well.
As usual, a British flag was used as a pall, which especially became a
daughter of one of Nelson's sailors. Almost every one was present and was
dressed in black. At the close of the service her favourite hymn was sung.
There were four wreaths placed on the grave. The tiny cemetery, bordered
by big blocks of stone and the people grouped inside between the
gravestones, presented a striking picture against the distant sea and
setting sun. I felt so thankful that Graham and Glass had not gone to
Gough Island. The latter stayed because his aunt was ill, but no one
thought of her being so near the end. An influenza cold was no doubt the
immediate cause of her death. She was seventy-nine, but looked more like
ninety.

_Sunday, April_ 5.--We had not many at the morning service, and those who
were there had such bad colds it was as much as we could do to get through
the hymns. I had only two girls at the class instead of seven.

I went to see Eliza Hagan, a sister of Caroline Swain, and for once found
her alone. She has now two step-sons and their families living in her
house.

_Monday, April_ 6.--This evening Fred Swain came in to say his little baby
brother had scalded his foot and to ask for something to put on it. I
thought I had better go and see it. It was not an easy matter to dress the
child's foot, for he kicked vigorously all the time, more, I think, from
fright than pain, for he stopped directly it was bound up.

_Wednesday, April_ 8.--We entered on our third year to-day. Graham has
started afternoon school from two to half-past three. A late school does
not answer, as the boys have to fetch their cows home and often have a
long distance to go for them.

_Thursday, April_ 9.--All our spare time is taken up in answering letters.
We are having a spell of wet weather and I fear the new-comers are feeling
a little depressed, but I dare say they will cheer up when the schooner
returns.

_Friday, April_ 10.--We have been opening two good-sized parcels from Mrs.
J--- of Bulford Camp. It contains such useful things, pinafores,
crossovers, haberdashery, writing-paper, pencils and pens.

_Saturday morning, April_ 11.--A ship has been sighted to the westward; we
think it may be the schooner, which has been away ten days.

_Evening_.--We were right, it was the schooner; the three boats landed
this afternoon. We went to meet them and thought the men looked very
dejected. It seems they never reached their destination. They met with
very bad weather and never sighted Gough Island. From what we have heard
since we feel sure the captain never intended they should. We are sorry
for Mr. Keytel, for so far things have not been very propitious, but hope
that with a bad beginning may come a good ending. He has not come ashore,
but will stay on the ship till all the business is done.

We are very sorry to hear that there has been a great deal of thieving on
board, and we fear the newcomers are involved in it. One man says that
every case of ours has been opened. It remains to be seen how far this is
true. Another says he saw quite enough on the trip to Gough Island.
Parcels for the people are missing, and one addressed to us by Miss
M---- containing things for some of the people has been opened and a large
piece of bed-ticking taken out.

_Monday, April_ l3.--To-day the schooner came in, but the men said it was
too rough to go out. Some, I think, did not want to, so no business was
done.

Our cases were brought up from the beach; the greater part of them have
been opened and fastened up again, but as far as we can see but little has
been abstracted. The men who brought them up enjoyed unpacking some of
them for us, and were most interested in discussing how a large iron
saucepan cracked in three places could be mended.

Graham is laid up with a bad pain in his chest and back, and can hardly
sleep for it at night.

_Tuesday, April_ l4.--A wet and misty day, and the schooner not seen.

I went up to see Alfred Green, who is very poorly with a bad cough and a
pain in his side. I put on a mustard-leaf. He is such a steady young
fellow and sets a good example both in and out of school.

_Wednesday, April_ 15.--I persuaded Graham to remain indoors to-day. I had
a busy morning. First, I went out and took the readings of the
thermometers, then soon after nine went up to church to read the daily
service. From there I went to the Andrew Swains' to dress the baby's
scalded foot. He cried more lustily than ever, but this will be the last
dressing that will be necessary, the wound having healed beautifully. I
then retraced my steps to the Henry Greens' to inquire after Alfred, who
is a little better. His mother thought another mustard-leaf would do him
good, so I came home for it and before long took it up and put it on.

_Thursday, April_ 16.--No unloading has been done since Saturday.

I had to administer a caning to little Charlie this morning. William told
me he was constantly cruel to his dog by beating it for no reason. We had
often heard the dog crying out. I believe the mother was not overpleased
at the chastisement, but Graham always comes down upon the boys if he
hears of any cruelty.

_Good Friday_.--I took both services to-day.

_Saturday, April_ 18.--The schooner came in to-day and has been unloading.
Mr. Keytel is shipping for the Cape two hundred sheep, which he expects to
put on board to-morrow. We are sorry it has to be done on Sunday. As the
schooner will probably leave the same day we are finishing our letters
to-night.

We have been much interested to hear about the snails sent to Cambridge.
In acknowledging their receipt the Professor writes: "The conical ones are
no doubt _Siphonaria Lessoni_, a species found all round the south end of
South America; and the 'scaly' one is _Magellanic Chiton_." And again:
"You will note the connection with _Magellanica_. The _Magellanica_ is
evidently the typical circumpolar fauna; and even Kerguelen Island is much
more akin to Magellanica than to Africa or New Zealand. I should expect
Tristan to be the same, though it has a distinctly European element in
Balea."

CHAPTER XXVIII

_Easter Sunday_.--Very few elders were at either morning or afternoon
service, only two or three of the regular ones. Graham was not able to get
out, but is improving.

The men were occupied in getting the sheep down to the shore, but in the
end were not able to put off, for heavy rain came on and the sea grew
rough; one boat started, but had to come back.

_Monday, April_ 20.--No business could be done with the ship to-day; it
had been blown eastward. The weather has been bad and there have been
heavy rain-storms.

One of Mr. Keytel's dogs, a well-bred pointer, has taken up his abode with
us while his master is on the ship. We dare not leave him for an instant
in the room by himself if there is any food on the table. The other
morning he ate our breakfast of bacon, which had been prepared as an
especial delicacy.

_Tuesday, April_ 21.--Another stormy day, and nothing seen of the
schooner.

This afternoon school began again; Ellen is helping me with the infants.
Nearly all the children attended.

_Wednesday, April_ 22.--There was a very small school, for many boys were
away helping to collect the sheep for the schooner, which was coming in,
and some were playing truant. The sheep were carted down to the shore and
the men were ready for embarking, when the ship moved out, and so all
their labour was again in vain. The sea was "making up," and to-night is
stormy. It is rather late in the year for a sailing-ship to do business.

_Thursday, April_ 23.--A roughish sea. No sign of the schooner.

I had some trouble in school to-day with one of the new scholars, a boy of
eleven. He thinks he can come to school late, not learn his lessons, and
do just as he pleases. I had to cane him. He fought all the time, but at
last subsided and meekly went back to his place. I felt breathless, and I
am sure the children were breathless with surprise at such behaviour. I
had a talk with him afterwards when he stayed behind to learn his lessons.
I think that, after his Cape school, he rather looks down upon a little
school like this. It is remarkable how well he and his younger brother
have been taught to read.

_Friday, April_ 24.--A fairly rough sea and no sign of the schooner.

I have spent the afternoon writing, at Graham's dictation, his yearly
report to the Colonial Office; to-morrow I hope we may finish it.

_Saturday, April_ 25.--No appearance of the schooner. The wind is rising
to-night.

_Sunday, April_ 26.--There were better congregations to-day, with a
sprinkling of men.

No schooner.

_Monday, April_ 27.--Our eyes have scanned the horizon in vain, but I feel
sure we shall see the schooner to-morrow. Graham has quite made up his
mind that we cannot go home by it next year. It has no accommodation for
passengers beyond the hold.

_Tuesday, April_ 28.--The people had become somewhat anxious about the
schooner's non-appearance, but to-day it appeared on the horizon. It was
too rough, however, for any business to be done, though one boat went out
with the mail. It is a rough night again.

_Wednesday, April_ 29.--Too wet and stormy for either church or school.

In one of our letters we were asked what is our daily menu, so I give it
here. Breakfast: milk-coffee, bread and butter, and a boiled egg when in
season, varied with grape-nuts, porridge, or occasionally fish. Dinner:
mutton, either hot, cold, or curried. About five days a week milk
puddings, sometimes served with stewed dried fruit. Supper: tea, bread and
butter, cold meat or fish. Fish is rather an uncertainty, but when it does
come it is fresh. The people always bring it scaled and cleaned.

_Thursday, April_ 30.--Nothing has been seen of the schooner to-day.

_Friday, May_ 1.--I am taking school for a short time each morning just to
keep the children up in reading and writing. I also give them Bible
instruction and hear their lessons.

We have again an invasion of mice or small rats. A day or two ago one was
found drowned in the milk-pan, this morning a second in the water-pail,
and a third in the milk-jug. A great many have been caught in the loft,
and occasionally we see them in the sitting-room popping in and out of
holes when all is quiet.

_Saturday, May_ 2.--The schooner was sighted this morning, but there was
not enough breeze to bring her in.

_Sunday, May_ 3.--This morning we were awakened by a loud shouting. It was
one of the men arousing the settlement. The sheep had to be driven in and
taken down for embarkation.

_Tuesday, May_ 5.--The schooner will probably leave for good to-day. The
only thing that now remains to be done is to take a few more sheep on
board and barrels of water for them. The crew are to look after the sheep
and every day will have to give each one a bottleful of water. Mr. Keytel
says that the poor sheep have been very roughly handled, and even, in
some cases, have had their horns broken. He came in early this morning
with Bob Glass, who, I thought, looked rather uncomfortable when we talked
about the things that have been stolen. One of these, we very much fear,
is the bale of calico from Carlisle, which would have been such a boon to
the people. We have been told it has been seen on board since the ship has
been here, and I believe it is on the island. We feel sure our Tristanites
have nothing to do with its disappearance. We fear we have also lost one
or two small parcels from the Cape. The Henry Greens have lost a box
containing clothing, groceries, and a good clock which they had sent to
the Cape to be mended.

9.15 p.m.--The schooner is off at last; and, really, we are glad, for
every one will be able to settle down to ordinary life again.

_Thursday, May_ 7.--Ellen and I spent the morning in cutting up material,
and making up parcels to send round to each family. We wish the people
would show a little more gratitude. I think they are pleased, but they do
not show it in the least. There was only one who showed gratitude, and she
sent a thousand thanks and said how useful the materials would be, for she
had just made up her mind to cut up some of her own and her husband's
clothes to make shirts for the boys. The people had nearly all run out of
sewing-cotton, so the supply just sent by friends has come in most
usefully. I have been able to give two reels to each family and to keep
some in reserve. This time we divided the material ourselves, because we
wished it to go to those who needed it most.

The men are working at Henry Green's lamb-house to turn it into a
residence for Mr. Keytel. They are rebuilding the west wall, laying down a
floor, and putting on a zinc roof.

_Saturday, May_ 9.--Graham and Mr. Keytel are having a game of chess. The
former is much better than he was, but has still to lead an invalid life.
Some nights he gets but little sleep on account of rain, and has to pace
up and down a good deal.

Our fine weather has broken, and to-day we have had heavy rain and a
thunderstorm.

_Monday, May_ ll.--Yesterday I had again to take the two services. I felt
rather alarmed in the morning, for Mr. Keytel was present. The church was
full each time. I began school again to-day after a week's holiday. It is
rather a business, taking the whole school in hand; and teaching is not
much in my line. This morning David Hagan began to roar because I took him
from his sister's lap and put him with his class. He would not stop, so I
was obliged to put him in the vestry, where he continued roaring and
occasionally uttered threats. During it all I had to go on hearing
lessons. At last he stopped, so I brought him out and put him again with
the infants, and had no more trouble with him. I give the class easy
mental arithmetic, which is much less trouble than putting down figures.

_Saturday, May_ 16.--To-day it was warm, without wind, and Graham went out
for the first time. He has made a great advance in the last two or three
days. We made our way up to Mr. Keytel's house. The work goes on slowly,
as the men are uncertain and turn up when they like. Henry Green and
Repetto are the two reliable ones. Mr. Keytel is rather disappointed in
the men; he thought they would have done what they could for him, as he is
trying to work up a trade. He says he has already lost two or three
hundred pounds. He does not, however, seem disheartened. I think the house
will look very well when finished. It consists of two rooms. Round each,
six inches from the wall, he has put on a framework of wood canvas, which
will be painted white. This will both keep out the damp and make the room
lighter.

_Tuesday, May_ 19.--It is difficult to find time for writing in the
evening now, as we talk so much. We generally end up with a game of
Tiddley Winks. Ellen and I usually get beaten; the two men want us to
change partners, but I will not.

To-day Graham came in at the end of school. Every one seems unfeignedly
pleased to see him out again.

We wish Tristan could be what it was before the new-comers came. Mr.
Keytel has been opening some of his cases, and from the first two finds
hatchets and rugs missing. Graham intends to give those whom it concerns a
piece of his mind when he is well.

[Illustration: MRS. REPETTO FISHING]

_Wednesday, May_ 20.--Graham was able to take service, but did not stay
for school. He came for me after school, and we walked down to the shore
and watched Mrs. Repetto catching craw-fish. She got her skirt and feet
very wet in the process. I was amused the other night by Mr. Keytel saying
to Graham, "You had better wait one more Sunday before taking the service,
Mrs. Barrow gives us good teaching."

_Thursday, May_ 2l.--I spent the afternoon doctoring the poultry. To my
surprise every hen and chicken I caught had "pip," a horny substance under
the tongue and rather hard to get off. I operated on nearly thirty. The
fowls are rather a trouble, from their habit of getting into all sorts of
impossible places. The other day I found a hen on the pillow and her
chickens on the dressing-table and window-sill.

_Tuesday, May_ 26.--Mr. Keytel took a sample of the white mould to the
Cape to be examined by an expert, who said it was due to the ground not
being worked, and recommended its being brought to the surface, where the
sun and air will get rid of it.

_Friday, May_ 29.--Mr. Keytel slept in his house last night for the first
time, and to-morrow intends moving in. He had no glass for the windows,
but happily we had some to spare. Much to his amusement, he had entirely
forgotten to bring plates, spoons and forks and a teapot, and again we
were able to come to the rescue with a heterogeneous collection.

The two-year-old infant I punished the other day says "he shan't come to
school any more because he's mad with 'old mumma.'" This same infant
prodigy generally carries about with him an old pipe. One day when on a
visit to his uncle he asked for some tobacco. The uncle said he had none.
On returning home he told his mother what his uncle had said, and
added, "I knew it was a lie."

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