Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

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Yesterday we had again to take the harmonium to pieces, as another note
had gone wrong. We could find nothing amiss except that the note squeaked
when pressed; it, however, came all right after the board had been placed
near the fire.

To-day old Eliza Hagan had tea with us. She is now without tea and lives
mostly on eggs. She looked so aged and talked but little, just answering
us. I think she was afraid of being asked about the Jim Hagans, who live
with her, but we carefully avoided that subject. A few days ago Graham had
a straight talk with Mrs. James Hagan and Will Swain, at the house of
whose mother, Susan Swain, she spends most of her time. We shall bring
home, all being well, a number of photographs. Mr. Keytel very kindly
always gives us copies of those he has taken.

_Monday, September_ 28.--Our population is now one hundred, Mrs. Bob Glass
having had a son yesterday. I saw her for a few minutes this morning.
There are many other invalids, for several are suffering from the breaking
out of sores. Alfred has had them very badly on his face and has been
really ill. They break out on the head, face, arms and legs, and, in fact,
all over the body, causing those who are suffering from them to feel very
poorly. They are certainly contagious, and attack men, women and children,
apparently they were brought by one of the children from the Cape.

On Saturday thirteen of the men went by boat to Sandy Point. They took
their dogs, and coming back, having no room for them in the boats owing to
the number of eggs, sent them home overland. The old ones reached home
about as soon as their masters. The next day I happened to see Bill
Rogers, who told me his young collie (the best-looking dog on the island)
had not returned. He seemed very upset about it, and said he should go off
in search of it. Happily, in the afternoon when he got home from service
he found it had returned. It was so footsore that its feet had to be bound
up. When we first arrived there was a very poor set of dogs. But later Sam
Swain was sent a half collie, and now there is a very much better stamp of
dog. These new dogs have quite won their way with the people, who think
much more of them and allow them in the house. They have gentle,
attractive ways, very much like those of our Rob.

_Saturday, October_ 3.--I am daily dressing Alfred's face with boracic
ointment, which I think is doing good. Poor Ben was taken ill again last
night with fits. It is nearly a year since he had any. He has got under
bad influence and has vowed he will never go to church again. Some of the
other men have also almost given up coming, whereas at one time they came
fairly regularly.

_Wednesday, October_ 7.--A ship was sighted soon after five this morning.
Mr. Keytel and some of the men went off to it; but many of the others were
on the mountains hunting for eggs. It was an American sealer and came
close in. We got a barrel of flour for five lambs. The captain had come in
for potatoes, but, of course, could not get any. He said another of their
sealers, which had started four days earlier than he had, was going to
call, and that both were bound for Gough Island.

_Thursday, October_ 8.--An expedition was planned yesterday by Graham, Mr.
Keytel and Repetto were to go on the mountain today in search of Molly's
eggs. They arranged to start between two and three. Graham got up at two,
and when Repetto came to call him was dressed and just going to have
breakfast. I spent part of the morning photographing, and took the Henry
Green family sitting in front of their house. I found Mrs. Green so hard
up for cotton that she was unravelling a piece of boat canvas. The
mountaineers returned in the early evening. Graham much enjoyed the day,
and thinks they must have walked thirty miles. Going up they watched the
sealer cautiously sailing round Inaccessible. They also got a view of the
Peak, which had a little snow on it. Mr. Keytel photographed the Mollyhawk
on its nest.

[Illustration: MOLLYHAWK ON ITS NEST]

_Saturday, October_ 10.--There was a south-east wind blowing last night.
This is a wind likely to do damage, so Graham went out to have a look
round and saw something sticking out from the roof. There being no lights
in the houses he concluded every one was in bed, and so got the ladder and
mounted on to the roof, where he found a piece of wood that holds the lead
down had got loose. This afternoon, meeting several men at Mr. Keytel's,
he told them how he had fastened the loose board, when they said, "You
should have called 'Sail, ho!'; you would have had every one out of their
beds pretty quick."

_Tuesday, October_ 13.--We were awakened by a cry of "Sail, ho!" I got up,
added postscripts to my letters, and retired to bed again. The men started
off but seeing the ship was not heading this way they came back.

Mrs. H. Green is getting quite brisk. I have called once or twice on
Sunday morning and taken her to church. The women are not coming very well
to their meeting; on an average there are only eight or nine, of whom
Charlotte Swain is always one. She loves a joke. I sometimes have a race
to get to the meeting first, and one day heard great laughter from her
house and saw heads at the window; her people were much enjoying the fun.

_Tuesday, October_ 20.--We have dispatched our letters at last. The ship
was a Norwegian bound for Adelaide. The captain was making his first
voyage as such. He gave Mr. Keytel some books, two of which, _Keswick
Week_ and _Side-lights of the Bible_, have been passed on to us. I fear a
captain must find our men rather a worry. They go to him with so many
requests. Only think, after you imagine the trading has been done, of
having sixteen men, one after the other, each wanting something in
exchange for a bottle of milk or a dozen eggs. We met the returning boats,
and Mr. Keytel came and sat down on the shingle and told us how the day
had gone and what a kind captain they had met with.

_Wednesday, October_ 21.--We heard the first thing this morning a small
vessel was in sight coming from the east. As it was wet and the sea was
"making up," the men did not go out to her.

_Thursday, October_ 22.--A barque sighted far out, as usual, going east.

_Friday, October_ 23.--A small vessel sighted this evening.

CHAPTER XXXII

_Saturday, October_ 24.--We have had an unusually exciting day. The small
vessel that was sighted yesterday evening and which the people felt sure
was an American whaler was seen again this morning. As it was making for
the island the men did not hurry to go out. At last three boats went off.
It was rather breezy. When the first boat reached the ship, to our
surprise it at once began to return, and the other two did not go on. Soon
after two o'clock Charlotte Swain came running up from the beach, quite
breathless, to say the captain was coming ashore and wanted especially to
see Graham, so we went down, thinking he was perhaps bringing letters. We
met him on the top of the cliff, and he and Mr. Keytel came with us to the
house. This is what we learnt: the stranger's name was Pearson. The vessel
was not an ordinary ship, but a ketch, nor had it a regular crew, but was
manned by himself, his two brothers, a friend and a Creole. He was not the
captain, but his next brother was, and held a master-mariner's
certificate. They had come out from Dover with the object of seeing for
themselves what these islands and Gough Island could produce in the way of
guano. A friend had given them the ketch, and with only three pounds in
their pockets they set sail. They had had a most adventurous voyage; for
they took nearly five months coming out and were only provisioned for
three. Our visitor told us of the straits they had been in for food. They
had only flour, tea and a few biscuits left. Their oil had run short and
they had just begun to eat uncooked flour. Of water they had only two
gallons left. I understood that most of the time they had been without
meat and had lived chiefly on dried beans and peas. Mr. Keytel told us
that when he went on board they were trembling from weakness.
Notwithstanding all they have gone through Mr. Pearson seemed quite
cheerful and said he felt better for the voyage. None of them except the
sailor-brother knew anything about the working of a boat; one of them was
an architect, one a city clerk, and one a secretary. They had not long
been out from Dover before these three were down with sea-sickness, and
the captain had to do all the work, day and night, through the Channel. As
soon as they found their sea-legs they had to take their turn at the
tiller, with the result that the course was often very considerably
changed from what the captain had set. At a Portuguese island they took in
the Creole, who wanted to work his passage to the Cape. I think it was at
this place that the Port Officials found the rolling and pitching of the
boat too much for them, and had to beat a hasty retreat. The sails of the
ketch are much damaged, due not to rough weather, but to having been
allowed to flap when she was becalmed.

Our visitor, who is the architect, said he would like to go round the
settlement, and was very much pleased with the architecture of the houses,
which he thought to be in such excellent keeping with the natural tone of
the place. Mr. Keytel has undertaken to get them supplies. To-night we
sent them a large loaf of bread, sugar and treacle. Mr. Pearson said they
did not want to beg, and offered clothes and books in exchange, but I said
receiving was not begging and that it was a pleasure to give. We hear this
evening that the American sealer has appeared on the scene, so no doubt
they will be able to get something from her. The ketch has come close in
and anchored, and looks so small. Their plan after visiting Gough Island
is to go on to the Cape and there sell the ketch.

_Sunday, October_ 25.--The American sealer came in and three boats went
off to her, taking two of the Mr. Pearsons. They returned about two
o'clock, when Graham went down and brought back to dinner Mr. Keytel, the
youngest brother, who looks more like a son of the Mr. Pearson we first
saw, and the friend, Mr. Crumpton. These two had started off for church
this morning, but could not pull through the kelp and had to return.
Directly dinner was over we had to hurry to service, the two young men
going with us. They did not know what to do with their fox-terrier, but
solved the difficulty by bringing it in. It certainly looks as if it had
been through a famine, and as regards colour might have been living up the
chimney. Later in the day the captain and his brother came ashore and Mr.
Keytel brought them in, but they did not stay long as it was getting dusk.

_Monday, October_ 26.--We are having a run of ships; another appeared this
morning, and the men decided to go out to her though the sea was rough. We
went down with Mr. Keytel who had kindly come in for our letters. I sat on
the top of the bank with the Repettos and watched the proceedings. At
first only one boat was going, but more men arriving a second was
prepared. The sea was "making up" and it looked rather a risky business.
They seemed to be hesitating about going, but were only waiting for the
right moment to get off. When they did push off the last men who scrambled
in got wet up to their waists and for one moment the boat pitched so it
looked as if it would turn over, but in a minute or two it was in safer,
though still rough, waters. The second boat got off better. Mr. Keytel and
Repetto signalled to the men on the ketch to put out to sea on account of
the weather. They were in need of water, but it was too rough to take any
off to them. Later it got much rougher and a mist came over the sea. The
boats had been seen returning from the ship, but afterwards had been lost
sight of. As they did not appear in the afternoon it was thought they had
landed to the east of Big Point, and would come home by land, and this was
so. At about 4.30 smoke was seen on the mountain side; and soon the women
hurried out with tea. We followed, and somehow felt sure that it was a
ship that had called before, and that we might possibly get letters by it.
The first men we met told us that the ship had come to fetch us, which was
a great surprise. The captain had hove to all night, and said he could
give us four hours to come out, but the men told him it would not be
possible because of the weather; as it was, one boat had two of its boards
broken and very nearly had to return. Next we heard the joyful news that
our surmise was right and that there were letters for us. The post-bag was
soaked and some of its contents, but not our letters. We returned with the
people, and passing Mr. Keytel's house and seeing him at the door told him
the news. He insisted on our going in and having a cup of tea. When we got
back we were able to sit down and read our precious letters. I had four;
getting news of home seems to bring one so much nearer to it. The men got
a good deal of food-stuff from the ship, and, indeed, they are in need of
it for they are living on meat only at present.

_Tuesday, October_ 27.--They got 300 lbs. of flour, also rice, tea, sugar
and soap.

There was a missionary on board who we understood from the men knew
Graham, but sometimes they get a little mixed. Henry Green brought us as a
present from the captain some Brown Windsor soap and a bottle of
unfermented wine. Had it been fine the captain intended coming ashore.

_Thursday, October_ 29.--The ketch arrived late yesterday evening, having
taken all Tuesday and Wednesday to get in. The Pearsons have been on shore
to-day and have filled their water-barrels. The captain and the architect
dined with us, and the latter spent the afternoon with us. He is an
interesting man and has been giving his advice about the stone which
should be used for the church and house. He is strong upon the point that
houses ought always to be built, when possible, of the material of the
place, as that naturally, and, therefore, best, suits the landscape. His
view is that nature will do much even where there is no beauty in the
local stone itself. He thinks that mountains influence character, and that
the people here have melancholy-looking faces which he attributes to the
mountains. To an outsider, perhaps, the faces of many of the people do
look thoughtful and sad, but their faces are hardly an index of their
character.

_Friday, October_ 30.--Four of the islanders, Henry Green, Repetto, Andrew
Hagan and Bill Green have been building a new boat which was launched this
afternoon. Two new boats are also being built by others. The boats are
built entirely of driftwood with the exception of the ribs; for these the
wood of the apple-tree is used, unless oak can be had from a whaler. Over
the ribs are laid horizontal pieces of wood called slabbies, over which is
nailed canvas which is oiled and painted. Henry's boat, the largest yet
made, is twenty-two feet long.

_Sunday, November_ 1.--We have had quite a summer-like day. The ketch
party including the Creole came ashore early, and the Pearsons came to
service and had dinner with us afterwards. We could just manage to sit
round the table. Sitting in the garden in the afternoon I was joined by
the architect who sat on the grass and discoursed. Soon we were called to
tea, the two younger men having arrived, who were followed by the captain.
They seemed to enjoy the home life and did not leave till after dusk. They
have given much pleasure by presenting John Glass with a clock and Repetto
with a watch.

_Tuesday, November_ 3.--We asked the Pearsons to dinner as it was the
twenty-first birthday of the youngest, and also to tea, for which had been
made a special dough-cake which was much appreciated. To-morrow they
intend going to Inaccessible to get samples of guano.

_Wednesday, November_ 4.--I began looking over things preparatory to
packing, but did not get through much for two visitors appeared, Martha
Green with eggs and Ruth to have her finger poulticed. The four from the
ketch had tea with us.

_Friday, November_ 6.--Yesterday we had quite a home-like scene--afternoon
tea in the garden at the architect's suggestion. He told me that once in
London his weekly food-bill was only two shillings and sevenpence, the
result of studying the nourishing values of different food-stuffs, of
having no meat and of being his own cook. Presently the two younger men
joined us and sat on the grass round the tea-tray. In the early hours of
this morning they were off to Inaccessible, taking with them Repetto to
show them where to find the guano.

This week I have not been to school but have devoted my time to sorting
things and packing, and a great business it has been in these small
quarters.

[Illustration: NEARLY FINISHED]

_Monday, November_ 9.--Graham was _hors de combat_ on Sunday with one of
his headaches, so I had to take the services. I spoke out plainly about
the attendance at church, though only by the way, and said it showed how
little they cared about the things of God, and that we could not help
asking ourselves if we had been any real help to even one person on
Tristan.

This afternoon I gave up to gardening. Just as Ellen and I had planted out
some tomatoes Mr. Keytel brought some mignonette plants and put them in.
He brought also a sample of a loaf he had cooked which he thought was
quite a triumph.

_Thursday, November_ 12.--On Tuesday the ketch returned from the islands
and has again anchored. I think the Pearsons are loath to take to sea
again. The architect has most kindly drawn a plan for a church here, and I
only wish we could carry it out.

We are gradually getting on with the work of packing, and have made lists
of what is to be put by when we are gone.

I have taken rather a good view of the front of the house and want to
print it on postcards to send home, but this takes time and I have little
to spare in the morning.

_Friday, November_ l3.--Our letters are to be taken on board to-day, for
with the first north wind the ketch will move out. We wonder when it will
reach Cape Town, for we fear it will be a long time on the way. While it
has been here there has been a remarkable spell of fine weather.

_Sunday, November_ 15.--The Pearsons have not gone yet. They landed to-day
though it was somewhat rough, came to service, and had dinner with us.

_Wednesday, November_ 18.--Our visitors have gone. They came in yesterday
to say good-bye. I had to go to the women's meeting, but was back in time
to pour out tea for them, after which we saw them off from Big Beach. The
ketch, which was called _Forget-me-not_, had anchored off the settlement
eighteen days and within half-a-mile of the shore. This was a record for
Tristan waters.

Here is a note about vessels and Tristan given by Repetto and which he is
very anxious should find its way into the newspapers: If a vessel in
moderate weather comes in sight of the island just before nightfall and is
recognized from the shore and is seen to be coming in the direction of the
settlement, the boats from the island are sure to go off to meet it. The
Master of the vessel will see a light on shore which many ships take to be
a lighthouse; but it is not a lighthouse but a fire lit by the islanders
to tell the ship that the boats have gone off to it. The Master of any
ship that at night sees this fire is asked to show a white light as a
guide to the boats to steer by. In the daytime when a ship sees smoke on
the island it may know that the boats are coming out to her.

[Illustration: THE KETCH (Length, TS/t. Beam, lift. Draught, 9/1.)]

CHAPTER XXXIII

_Friday, November_ 20.--Last night Mr. Keytel had a meeting of all the
men, at which he asked Graham to be present as he wanted him to hear
everything. He had drawn up an agreement to work for him for three years,
which he invited all the men to sign except Bob Glass, with whom he will
have no dealings. He spoke very plainly to the men and told them they had
not been straightforward with him. To name one thing, they had never told
him the sheep had scab. As a consequence the sheep sent to the Cape will
no doubt have to undergo treatment and be a large expense. At his request
Graham read the agreement aloud and explained it. All signed it. Mr.
Keytel warned them that if any one broke the agreement he could be put
into prison; whereupon some one asked if the prison would be here. "No,"
said Mr. Keytel; "Cape Town!"

This afternoon I took the girls of the knitting class for a picnic. When
notice of it was given out in school I could see a smile of pleasure
coming over their faces. Still, they take their pleasures solemnly. Nearly
all appeared with knitting in their hands. Arrived at our destination,
where we had a lovely view of red rocks jutting out into the sea, they all
sat solemnly down in a row save Charlotte, who set to to make the fire and
boil the water. After tea we hid chocolate in the grass, the finding of
which they much enjoyed.

_Tuesday, November_ 24.--Last week we sent round to each family all the
clothing we could spare; and to-day we had Miss Cotton to tea to show her
the various things in the house she is to have.

Yesterday Graham, Mr. Keytel, Repetto and H. Green were to have started
upon an expedition round the island, but the weather changed. If they do
not get off this week Graham will not go, because a vessel might call for
us, though we do not expect one so early.

_Wednesday, November_ 25.--This afternoon Graham and I, accompanied by
five little girls, went towards the potato patches. Graham is measuring
their distances from the settlement. He measured the first mile the other
day, and when we came to the spot I painted on a large rock 1 MILE. We
went on and measured a second mile, which was also marked, and then it was
time to return. The children were delighted to help by holding the line
and were as frolicsome as kittens.

_Thursday, November_ 26.--This morning Graham, hearing from Repetto that
it was not thought a good day for the expedition, as it would be rough for
landing on the other side, determined to start off by himself on foot. He
packed his food in a biscuit-tin, round which he rolled his overcoat, and
put the bundle into an island knapsack. This knapsack is rather
ingeniously made out of a sack by fastening to each of the bottom corners
one end of a stout round band usually made of canvas stuffed with wool.
Around the middle of this band is tied string, which ties the mouth of the
sack and at the same time fastens the band to the mouth. In this way are
formed two loops through which the arms go and which make excellent
shoulder-straps. With this slung on his back he set forth, going west. In
the afternoon, just as Ellen and I were starting forth to spend it in the
open, Maria Green came to say her father did not like the thought of
Graham having gone alone and that he was going to follow him. It was
rather a relief to my mind as the mountain is dangerous in places. We went
west and I sat down to sketch. Before very long we saw Henry and Tom
coming quickly along on their donkeys and with knapsacks. I was glad of
the opportunity of telling them how I appreciated their kindness.

When we got back we had one caller after another; some brought fish,
another eggs, and another wool; we had seven visitors in all. I think
perhaps it was a return for some soap which we had sent round yesterday.
At last we were able to have supper, but bread had to be made before we
could settle down for the evening.

I am making a blue serge dress for Little Lizzie and trimming the sleeves
with narrow white tape.

_Saturday, November_ 28.--Graham returned to-day having thoroughly enjoyed
the expedition; but he did not get round the island as he had hoped to do,
for his left knee gave way the first day. Probably the weight of his
knapsack (21 lbs.) had something to do with this. He was overtaken early
that evening by the two men, who went the short way round the Bluff
through the sea. They got to Seal Bay that night and slept outside the
usual cave by their fire, Graham's bed being two planks. Next day they
went to Stony Beach about four miles further on and which I believe, is
the most beautiful part of the island. There is a great deal of grass-land
and quite a forest of trees. The two men did the cooking and insisted upon
carrying Graham's knapsack. Early that morning Henry saw quite a new bird
which he said looked like a woman standing straight up. Graham says it
resembled a stork. The second night they slept inside the cave, which they
cleaned out, and having dried the tussock in the sun had softer beds.
Coming home, for the first time Graham rounded the Bluff, wading
waist-deep.

I went to-day to see Ruth, who has been ill for a month with mumps, and
the last two days has taken to her bed; her neck is very much swollen.

_Monday, November_ 30.--Yesterday at noon a ship appeared and proved to be
a whaler. All the men went out to her. Graham was in hopes he would get a
letter from home, which he did, and I got one from an old friend of the
islanders. Two of the islanders also got letters from relations in
America. We hear that there is no likelihood of a ship calling for us.
Mr. Keytel has, however, very kindly offered us passages in the
_Greyhound_, which he expects about March 20. It is a comfort that our
plans are thus made a little more definite. Now we know that no ship will
call for us in December we are thinking of spending a week at Stony Beach.
The captain of the whaler ordered a good deal: a bullock, sheep, forty
fowls, geese, and one hundred bushels of potatoes.

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