Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

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_Wednesday, December_ 2.--The people are pleased with their bartering. I
believe they have eight barrels of flour, a large quantity of biscuits,
and a barrel of molasses. After they had supplied him the captain told
them that two more whalers would be calling.

This afternoon Mrs. Susan Swain came to tea. She was a St. Helenian and
was brought here as a young married woman. She told us how home-sick she
was at first.

_Friday, December_ 4.--Just after service Lily Swain ran down to ask me to
go and see Ruth as the swelling on her neck had burst. The swelling turned
out to be an abscess, which was discharging freely. She has made very
little of what she has suffered, only complaining of pain and of her neck
being too tender to be touched.

This afternoon Graham has been whitewashing as we were anxious to leave
the house in good order.

_Thursday, December_ 10.--Yesterday the men went over to Seal Bay and shot
five oxen, so they are well set up in meat for some time to come. They
salt it down. To-day they have been working for Mr. Keytel putting a roof
on an old boat-house to be used as a store for fish. All being well, they
start fishing next Monday. The green fly is not as bad this month as it
will be next.

Poor Rob has had a bad bite in his side--a three-cornered tear. Pie
brought it upon himself, as he seized a bone from another dog. I thought
it ought to be sewn up, and showed it to Mr. Keytel, who was of the same
opinion, and to my great relief offered to do it. He sewed the edges
together most successfully, and although it was hard work forcing the
needle through the skin, Rob behaved admirably.

_Friday, December_ 11.--Rob licked himself to such an extent last night
that he opened the wound. We put a bandage round him, but he soon pushed
it aside to lick, so we have had to leave the wound to him and nature.

_Monday, December_ 14.--We are busy making children's garments for
Christmas.

A ship passed to-day and put up a red flag, which we took to mean that it
wanted to communicate with the island, but unfortunately it was too rough
for the men to put out. The sea was covered with "white horses"--"caps,"
as they are called here.

_Wednesday, December_ l6.--To-day the men started on the fishing business.
They went off in their five boats about five o'clock, were out about five
hours and did exceedingly well. Each boat-load was laid separately on the
shingle. Then Mr. Keytel went from heap to heap and showed the women how
to treat the fish. Each fish has to be slit open, cleaned, then slit twice
again. The men helped by cutting off the heads. About fifteen hundred fish
were thus dealt with. After they had been cleaned and slit they had to be
washed. They were then carted up to the storehouse on the top of the cliff
to be salted. Salt had to be thoroughly rubbed into each one, which took a
long time. Lastly, they will be placed in barrels where they will be left
till to-morrow, when, if fine, they will be hung up to dry. The drying
process takes about three days. The people were working till almost dusk.
Poor Mr. Keytel had a most unpleasant episode with one of the new-comers,
who swore at him, and took off his coat to fight him, coming up to him two
or three times. This happened before all the men and women. It appears the
man was annoyed because Mr. Keytel was not on the shore when the boats
came in. Mr. Keytel remained perfectly calm but told him he should fish no
longer for him. He will have nothing more to do with him unless he
apologizes.

[Illustration: FISH-CLEANING]

_Friday, December_ l8.--We had a diversion to-day. Betty Cotton hurried in
to say a steamer was making for the settlement. Graham soon followed and
said we must pack at once, for the steamer might be coming for us, and if
not, might take us. Mr. Keytel was going off, and we asked him to hoist a
flag if the captain was ready to take us. We packed as fast as we could
and were surprised how quickly we did it. There was no delay, for we had
made a list of what had to be put in at the last moment. Repetto came down
and helped. When we had nearly finished he looked through his glass again
and saw the boats returning and the steamer moving on. For the moment it
was a blow, for we had to unpack and return to our normal life again.
After comparing notes, we think the steamer saw the boats and stopped, but
the men not realizing this turned for home. It would not have been a good
day to go, for the sea was choppy and probably all our things would have
got wet. There was too much surf for the boats to land on this beach. We
don't regret not having gone, since we should like to be here for
Christmas; indeed, we do not want to leave before the end of March.

I am still visiting Ruth, as her neck is not yet right; the only thing to
do seems to be to go on poulticing it.

We wish it were possible for the Henry Greens to send their youngest child
to the Cape to see a doctor. He is nearly four and cannot talk yet; the
parents say he has once or twice said words and that he understands
everything said to him.

_Saturday, December_ 19.--Another eventful day. A whaler appeared and two
boats were to be seen coming from it. It was the _Canton_, the whaler that
was here last year with Walter Swain on board. This time it brought a mail
from St. Helena. It was not a very exciting one, as it contained mostly
papers. But the Postmaster of St. Helena most kindly sent two parcels of
toys and some copy-books, which were particularly acceptable. He has been
so kind in remembering the island each time a whaler has come from St.
Helena. We had an agreeable surprise, Walter Swain bringing us letters
sent through his owners, Messrs. Wing Bros, of New Bedford.

_Tuesday, December_ 22.--A cry of "Sail, ho!" was raised during school. It
was a wet and foggy morning. As the fog lifted for a moment, a four-masted
vessel was seen coming straight for Hottentot Point. It was close in and
in a few minutes would have been on the rocks. The captain must have had a
great shock when he found how near land he was. The ship was seen to head
out as fast as it could and was soon again lost to view in the fog.

Last Sunday was a very disorganized day. The captain of the whaler, a
coloured man, came ashore and said he must leave that day as the weather
was changing. I believe he would have waited had the men made a stand.
With the exception of Henry Green and Repetto they were at work all day,
digging up potatoes, carting them to the beach, and taking them off to the
ship, from which they did not return till dark. They did very well,
getting at least ten barrels of flour.

_Saturday, December_ 26.--There was not much time for writing on Christmas
Day. Mr. Keytel came in to supper, after which we played games, and then
had a long chat, not getting off to bed till nearly eleven o'clock--very
late for us primitive folk. The services were not largely attended, many
heads of families being absent; but the elder boys and girls attended
well. We had no need to cook a dinner for we had roast pig sent us by
three different families, also a berry pie.

We are taking a short holiday, and intend next week, if fine, to go to
Seal Bay for a day or two. William is to go with us to carry the
baggage.

_Sunday, December_ 27.--The weather seems more settled and we hope to
start early to-morrow morning. William is most keen upon our going and has
donkeys ready.

CHAPTER XXXIV

_Seal Bay, Monday, December_ 28.--Well, I must tell of all our doings from
the beginning. We went to bed last night before eight, and were up this
morning by four o'clock. Our packing did not take long. My possessions
were a rug, air cushion, bathing dress, pair of stockings, comb, towel,
tooth-brush, soap, knitting, a gospel, sketching things, a book and
camera. We started at six, Ellen, Mary Repetto and Sophy Rogers
accompanying us as far as the Bluff, which is five miles out. Ellen and I
rode on donkeys and a third carried the baggage. Graham very much hoped we
should be able to keep to the shore by wading round the Bluff, which is
not always possible as the sea sometimes dashes against the cliff with
much force. It would only have taken a few minutes and would have saved a
long climb over the Bluff. However, William, who is timid, was dead
against it, so we chose the hill. It meant hard climbing over several
ridges and took us about an hour and a half. Ellen and the girls kept with
us till the descent began, when we bid them farewell. We filed along the
side of the mountain for some time and found it rather rough walking, the
track leading through long grass in which were hidden holes and stones. At
last we got down to the shore, and after a sandy bit had three miles of
clambering and stepping over boulders and big stones. This was really hard
work, if only because one was obliged to hold the head down in order to
pick every step. At last we got near the end of it, and coming to a stream
trickling down the cliff--how we welcomed the water, for we were hot and
thirsty!--we sat down and had our lunch.

_Tuesday, December_ 29.--To continue the account. We had now come to a
very picturesque part, and were nearly at Seal Bay. On the shore was a
clump of rocks forming an archway. Rocks like these are rather a feature
on this side of the island. We had now a short but stiff climb; holding on
to tufts of stubbly reed-like grass we pulled ourselves up to the top of
the cliff. Here we were on fairly level ground, an uneven plain nearly
three miles long, the first part of which had its grass thickly strewn
with tiny ferns. The sweet-scented geranium abounded and so did the
crowberry, which is a finer and sweeter kind than that which grows
nearer the settlement. We frequently stopped to refresh ourselves with it.
Near a gulch we sat down for a good rest, and then trudged on to Seal Bay.
The scenery was fine, high mountains with long, grassy slopes. We soon
got to the cave on the shore which the men generally occupy, a poor sort
of shelter. The first thing we now did was to cook our supper. Boiling
water was soon ready for the tea and steaming potatoes for the cold meat.
Supper over I went to a pool to wash up, and found the water quite warm.
The next thing was to find a sleeping-place. We went along the shore in
search of a cave and in about ten minutes came to two side by side. One
was immense--long, broad and lofty--and we immediately marked it off as
our drawing-room. The other was just as small; it had a good open
frontage, but was only about seven feet broad; it would do, though, to
sleep in. Both were floored with clean sand and fairly dry. Close by we
saw troops of penguins, which looked so delightfully quaint hopping and
running in long files to the sea. They have such an ancient look as they
move with bent body and head poking forward. We finally decided to sleep
in the open on a sand bank, which was still warm from the sun. We found
the best plan was to scoop out a place to lie in and heap up sand for a
pillow. We had left William busy blocking up his cave with planks, and
stopping up every crevice with tussock, so that not a breath of cold air
should enter. Sleep would not come to us, and the roar of the waves
dashing on the beach a few yards below us did not help to bring it. The
wind, rising, began to blow the sand in our faces. This was a little too
much, so about two o'clock Graham got up and lit the fire which he had
already laid just inside the cave, and soon we were sitting and warming
ourselves at its blaze. Then we tried the cave and got a little sleep, but
were awakened by William at four. We sent him off to fish, and after
resting a little longer, got up and had a bathe. There were rather big
breakers, and I was knocked down but was none the worse. William, who as a
rule is no fisherman, had caught six fish, and I superintended the boiling
of them for breakfast, while Graham went for fresh water, which is only to
be had some distance off.

_Wednesday, December 30_.--We started betimes yesterday for Stony Beach
and found it a longer walk than I expected. We went along the shore, part
of the way over boulders, then on to the side of the hill, where I
photographed two mollyhawks on their nest. I also took photographs at
different points along the shore. We at last got on to a grassy slope. We
were feeling tired, but trudged on. As we neared Stony Hill we heard the
galloping of wild cattle, and soon a troop of them appeared. Happily, we
were well out of their course, for they are sometimes dangerous. This part
of the way was very tiring and we were thankful--at least I was--when we
got to the wooded valley which was our destination. Amongst the trees were
flocks of noisy penguins. We were now in a most lovely part; it was really
beautiful, and the view up the valley wild and fine. We settled down under
the shade of the trees, made a fire and had a meal, after which Graham and
William wandered away. I thankfully found a shady spot under a tree and
had a rest. Then roused myself and tried to sketch. It was very hot and
one did not feel energy for anything, not even to read. After a time
Graham and William returned; they had wandered on to the opposite hill,
from where I had heard their voices. Graham was anxious I should see the
valley, so at last I mustered energy enough to stroll up. I was glad I
went, for the view was very grand. We toiled up the side of the valley on
to a ridge and looked down on Stony Beach, which lay at a great depth
below. Scattered along it in a half-circle were hundreds of penguins.
We slowly made our way down again, resting when we could under the shade
of trees. We got back to the place where we lunched, made some tea, and
had a hard-boiled egg each and some bread-and-butter, but not much, as we
had to husband our food. It was about six, and we thought it time to start
back to Seal Bay. We could not stay at Stony Beach, as we knew of no
shelter. Walking across the moor, we kept a look-out for the cattle and
spied them some distance away on higher ground; they appeared to be
watching our movements narrowly. We came back quickly and got to our
quarters in an hour and thirty-five minutes, just as it was getting dusk.
We sat down at the mouth of our cave; then Graham and William lit the fire
and put the potatoes on to boil. I sat near and at intervals progged the
potatoes. It came on to rain slightly, but the cave just sheltered us.
William slept in a corner against the wall, near where the fire had been.
Graham got up in the middle of the night and put a rug over him, as he had
not been able to sleep much the night before on account of feeling cold.
I never had a better night, and felt refreshed, though tired. It has been
very showery, but we managed to go off for a bathe and found a better
place than yesterday's: a place between two rocks, into which the sea
rushed at frequent intervals. We enjoyed a lazy morning. While Graham and
William played cricket in the large cave, I rested in the other. When I
looked in upon them a little later I found them stretched at full length,
with pocket-handkerchiefs over their faces, which told its own tale.

There is lying on the rocks here the trunk of a large tree, which was
first washed up on Tristan in 1894. It then measured, Repetto says, 120
feet to 140 feet in length, and 20 feet in girth.

[Illustration: HOTTENTOT GULCH]

_Thursday, December_ 3l.--Here we are, at home again, feeling decidedly
tired, but having much enjoyed our holiday in the open air. We spent a
very quiet day yesterday. In the afternoon I sketched an archway of rock.
Then I went along the shore in search of Graham and William. The latter
was trying, without either hook or bait, to catch fish, and caught three
crawfish, one of which we had for supper. This morning we were up soon
after four and had our bathe; the sun was just rising. We returned to
prepare breakfast. William was to have had the fire lit, but we found he
had used all his matches in vain. The fire was made to burn at last and
breakfast cooked and over, we packed our knapsacks and started for home.
We got across the plain fairly well and down the cliff, which was not an
easy descent, on to the shore. It took us one hour and twenty-five minutes
scrambling over the stones and boulders of the shore, and we went very
quickly, just taking a respite now and again. In some parts, where there
had been landslips, it was not safe to halt. We were glad when we got over
this part, but the worst was to come. The mountain had a heavy mist over
it. Before we began to ascend it we sat in Anherstock Gulch and had lunch.
We were very thirsty and the only water we could get was some rain-water
in the hollow of a rock. The ascent was steep, and before we had gone far
rain came on. Then we had to walk along the side of the mountain in a
narrow path bordered and overhung by dripping ferns. The last part was
very steep and I kept stumbling over my wet skirt, and really if William
had not assisted me, I do not know how I should have got up. Graham had as
much as he could do to drag up the load on his back. From the heights
which we now reached we could see the Bluff and make out figures which we
guessed were awaiting us. Before long we got down to them and found they
were Ellen and the children. She had brought donkeys and also a dry skirt
and waterproof for me, which I was thankful to put on. The donkeys soon
were saddled and we set off home. The saddles were men's and lacked
stirrups. We came home at a tremendous pace, and it was as much as I could
do to stick on. Graham, relieved of his load, ran behind and kept the
donkey going. Knowing we were wet through, he would not listen to my
entreaties to let the animals walk, so we raced the five miles home. As we
neared the houses people came out to greet us, and were glad to see we
were safely back. Only a few of the women have been to Stony Beach, and I
doubt if any have been up the valley. In the evening the men came round,
as is their custom on New Year's Eve, and in the intervals of playing and
drinking tea were most interested in hearing about our expedition. They
think we went about thirty-two miles.

CHAPTER XXXV

_Tuesday, January 5, 1909_.--We have had another excursion. Thinking we
would make the most of the holiday, yesterday we went with some of the
young people up to the Ponds. It was our intention to start early, but the
weather looked uncertain, so we waited awhile. At last we started off. Our
party of eleven included Alfred, Maria and Johnny Green, William and Sophy
Rogers, Emma Hagan, and Mary, Martha and Susan Repetto. We had a short
walk over the sands going east, and then one of the stiff climbs, now
becoming quite familiar, up the mountains, but we climbed leisurely,
picking and eating berries as we went. It was a really hard climb at the
end. Having reached the top we walked along a gulch, where I took two
photographs, and from there got on to a moor which was covered with
high-growing ferns, making walking difficult. We had about three miles of
this and then reached the Ponds. They are close together, and the top one
flows into the middle one and that again into the third. We descended to
the first and there sat down for lunch, and how thankful we were to rest
no words can say. Mary undertook the boiling of the water drawn from the
pond; there was not much wood and a strong wind, and it seemed as if it
would never boil. After lunch, as it was blowing rather cold, we moved on,
making a detour along the opposite hill round the second pond to the
third. The ponds lie in very deep, round basins, the sides of which in
many places are thick with trees. We did not attempt to go down to the two
last. Returning, we thought we would try a short cut across the moor to
the edge of the mountain. Andrew Hagan, who had joined us, advised us not
to try this, but the spirit of adventure was upon us, and so we and the
children set forth. We certainly got into many pitfalls. We had numerous
small ravines to cross and their almost impossible banks to scramble up,
and at times had to push our way through bushes and ferns. We came across
a good many mollyhawks sitting on their nests, which they seem to frequent
after their young ones have flown. We saw one or two of the young; they
are so pretty and are covered with a blue fluffy down. It was not easy to
keep Rob and Scotty from molesting them. We clambered down the mountain
fairly quickly. William most thoughtfully had told Ned to meet us with the
donkey, and I was most thankful for it. It was getting on for eight by the
time we got home. Graham thinks we must have been about fifteen miles. I
think it was the most tiring expedition we have had, but do not regret
having gone. The children enjoyed themselves immensely, and it was
delightful to hear their peals of laughter; they were here, there, and
everywhere.

_Tuesday, January_ l2.--Mr. Keytel is encountering many difficulties. The
fact is, the men are not pulling together, which is due to the new-comers,
who have done an untold amount of mischief in every way. There are
divisions and quarrels among them, and their morals are bad.

Six men who last week went to Inaccessible returned on Sunday. They had
hoped to do some sealing, but could not get into the cave. I am sorry to
say one of them purposely set fire to the tussock grass, which has been
burning for three days. The fire can be seen from here, twenty-five miles
away. The men say that thousands of birds must have been destroyed, as it
is their nesting time. It is horrible to think of.

We started school again last Monday, after more than a fortnight's
holiday. For some time the elder Swain girls have left off coming to
school, and now William means to leave; he is eighteen, and is wanted
for work. While I write I hear the cheerful strains of a concertina which
he is playing.

_Friday, January 15_.--Soon after four this morning the settlement was
awakened by terrific cries of "Sail, ho!" Some smoke was seen, and it was
first thought to be that of a steamer, but there was so much it seemed to
be a ship on fire. The men went off and did not get back till the evening,
as they had a long distance to go. The ship was a whaler melting the
blubber of a whale caught the night before. They had on deck the half of
the head, inside of which men were digging with spades--which gives an
idea of its size. The whale in Tristan waters is the Southern Right Whale.

_Saturday, January 16_.--A vessel emerged from the mist to-day. In a
marvellously short time the men were off to her. She was a Norwegian one
bound for Australia, and had made a quick run of fourteen days from Rio
Janeiro. After the men returned in the evening they had to go off again
with sheep and potatoes to the whaler, which was standing out to the east.
We sat on the cliff once more, looking at the busy scene on the beach
and watching with interest the boys guiding down the steep road the
bullock-carts, which at times looked as if they would heave over, and
indeed one did. The men will probably not be back till the small hours of
the morning, which will make a working-day of nearly twenty-four hours for
them, as they were up very early digging potatoes for the whaler.

_Monday, January_ l8.--The men failed to catch the whaler on Saturday
night. I suppose the captain had given them up and moved further out. They
got back about 2 o'clock, and after a few hours' rest went off again to
her, returning in the evening. This morning, just before starting for
church, a third ship was sighted in the far distance.

We have had rather uncertain weather lately, with a good deal of wind. The
last few days have been hot and misty. The flower garden has not done very
well this year, partly due to the wind.

The ship that was sighted to-day was another whaler. It was too breezy
for the men to go out to it, so they went to dig potatoes to be ready for
to-morrow.

_Wednesday, January_ 20.--In the late afternoon I was sketching the
mountains with the houses below, so as to give an idea of the great height
of the overshadowing cliffs. It was rather too ambitious a sketch. I sat
out on the plain right away from the houses.

_Saturday, January_ 23.--Yesterday being Sophy Rogers' birthday, we went
in the afternoon for a picnic. The invited were all those who attend the
knitting-class. We went a little way west and had tea in a ravine. Mary
Repetto, who is generally the leading spirit, superintended the boiling of
the water. Afterwards the girls had rounders on the plain, playing with
great zest. It was amusing to watch their different characters. Mary,
intensely in earnest and galloping round at terrific speed; at the same
time trying to keep every one else up to the mark; her face showing
displeasure or amusement with lightning rapidity. Her sister Martha, very
serious and looking rather harassed. Sophy, a tall, rather pretty girl,
taking all in good part and entering into the game with great enjoyment.
Maria, who is decidedly staid, playing well, but not letting herself go.
Emma, the tallest of all, good-natured, and enjoying herself immensely,
but taking things easily. Susan, as active as a young goat and full of
laughter. We joined for a game, but I was soon glad to take my place again
as a spectator.

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