Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

K >> K. M. Barrow >> Three Years in Tristan da Cunha

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18

_Thursday, January_ 28.--Most of the men are walling in new potato
patches. The young Swains are going to build a house. This will be the
first that has been put up for at least ten years. The difficulty will be
to get wood enough. The men do not care much for building.

Graham talks of going up to the Peak again, and I may possibly go too; we
should not do it in a day, but camp out for at least one night. The
hardest part is the ascent from the settlement on to the Base.

_Monday, February_ 1.--Last Saturday Henry had rather a bad fall from his
donkey. He was going at a good pace when the crupper broke, and he was
thrown over the donkey's head on to the stony track. He hurt his neck, cut
his face, and the inside of his mouth. Calling this morning, I found his
mouth was festering inside, and as he thought there was grit there, at his
wife's suggestion I syringed it. The grit had lodged in a hole, and it
took nearly an hour to dislodge it. Even then I was not sure it was all
out, and so promised to go up again this afternoon, and, syringing again,
more came out. I hope the wound may now heal quickly.

Graham and Mr. Keytel have been exploring this afternoon. They wanted to
find the way to the Base from a certain point. I did not realize till the
other day that when we climb to the Base we are considerably higher than
the Malvern Hills.

Mr. Keytel has had to throw away a great number of his dried fish. Some
had become fly-blown, and some mildewed. The north wind does so much
damage in moistening things, and so causing food to spoil.

_Monday, February_ 8.--This evening I was sitting on the common, having
just finished sketching, when, looking up, I saw the poor sheep being
driven hither and thither by one of Henry Green's dogs, which the girls
were powerless to stop. It ran the sheep to the edge of the cliff, and
two, in their fright, ran down to the shore and one was nearly drowned.
But the girls followed; and Martha got hold of the sheep by its tail and
with the assistance of the others drew it out of the sea.

_Wednesday, February_ 10.--Most of the men have gone off to Inaccessible.
The island has now been on fire for a month.

_Friday, February_ 12.--This morning a ship was seen. Hearing it was a
whaler, I went up to school as usual, and did not trouble about letters.
In a few minutes Mr. Repetto looked in to ask for Mary, and said it was a
merchant ship, and that the men were just going off. I flew home, got my
letters and dispatched them by Johnny Green. Graham was just too late with
his. Soon after the three boats came back from Inaccessible. They had had
bad weather, and had only caught four seals. The cave in which they are
caught is very dark and has to be entered with lanterns, hence a good many
got away. The other men returned from the ship in the early evening. We
hear the captain would have been ready to take us. He was going to
Melbourne. I am glad, though, not to go so far; it is a long round. As the
time gets nearer, so the desire becomes greater to see all our home
people; but we must just await our time.

[Illustration: ALL THE WOMEN AND CHILDREN]

_Saturday, February_ 13.--Tom has just been in and told us how well they
did on the ship yesterday. The captain was very kind. This morning there
was another cry of "Sail, ho!" Twenty-two went off and caught the ship. It
was an English one, and again bound for Melbourne. Repetto asked the
captain if he would give us a passage, but he said he had no room, as he
had already a passenger. I felt anxious as to whether we should have to go
off, and even began to collect some books, but, rather to my relief, on
looking out I saw the ship's sails going up again. Now that the prospect
of getting home is so much in our thoughts it seems such a journey round
by Australia. I suppose it would take us six weeks to get there.

Graham and Mr. Keytel have at last found the way up from the Goat Ridge to
the Base. Mr. Keytel ascended by rather a dangerous way, but managed to
hold on and pull himself up. They were so late in coming home that I went
to Mrs. Repetto, and we both walked as far as the gulch to look for them;
before long she saw them coming, greatly to my relief.

_Monday, February_ l5.--William came in on Saturday night to show us a
watch he had bought for five shillings from an apprentice on the last
ship. He wanted to show his treasure at once. I only hope it
will go, but he does not seem to have any apprehensions
on that score; it is a watch, and he possesses it!

In view of our leaving, Graham has given to Repetto the Bishop's
commission to hold a service every Sunday, to take baptisms, and to
perform marriages.

CHAPTER XXXVI

We have now quite made up our minds not to go by any ship bound for
Australia, as we have the _Greyhound_ to fall back upon.

_Wednesday, February_ l7.--This afternoon, as I was contemplating a walk
with Graham, Susie Repetto came to ask me to go up and see Martha, who in
chopping wood had cut her foot rather badly with an axe. I found she had
done it this morning; it was a bad gash on the top of the foot, and had
bled profusely. Her father had bound it up, and told them to ask me to go
up and see to it this afternoon. It ought to have been sewn up, and
Repetto intended to do that, but Lavarello dissuaded him. Repetto is quite
a doctor--and surgeon too. When, a few years ago, old Susan Swain fell and
broke her left leg at the shin into splinters, he very cleverly set it,
and she now walks about as well as ever, and shows no sign of lameness--
even in spite of her not having altogether obeyed his instructions. His
account of the setting is most amusing. He says he was never so hot in his
life. His great difficulty was to get at the fracture, for as soon as he
pulled up the skirt to look at it, it was promptly pulled down again by
one or another of the many bystanders. He was equally successful in two
cases amongst his children, one of whom had her wrist, and the other his
shoulder dislocated.

[_June_, 1910.--As I write this for the printer, news comes of a very sad
accident to poor little Florrie Swain, aged seven, by a stone falling upon
her at Pig's-Bite. This is how Repetto writing on April 24 describes the
case:--

"I am little busy now about that I have to attend to little Florence which
she as bough (both) legs brock below the neess but one of it she got three
wonds one just below the nee about tow inches long and mor than a inche
wide another on the brocken bon which the bon is entirely out about 3
inches long and another large ones on top the foot which reach from ones
side the enckel bone to the other and some more smoll ones also the same
leg I had operetion on her foot which I had to cut off the big toe and the
nex to the big one and mor the alf of the underfoot All them see give her
up but now she get on nisely ... beside Athur Rogers he had his herm
dislocate so I am now cleagy and doctor."]

_Thursday, February_ 18.--Ellen was _hors de combat_ to-day, consequently
I have had a most domestic day. I swept the rooms, skimmed the milk,
boiled the coffee and the eggs. After breakfast Mary came to help. Though
only thirteen, she has the capability of a girl of eighteen. She looked
after the boiling of the milk, of which there was a bucketful, washed up,
and cleaned the saucepans. These are done outside at the Watering and
cleaned with sods. I did the bedroom, made a milk pudding and trimmed the
lamp. It was then time for church. In the middle of the morning I had to
run off to dress Martha's foot, which is doing well. She has to keep in
bed, but does not seem to mind, as she is fond of reading.

_Monday, February_ 22.--We have not had very much summer this year. To-day
is quite cold, and we are told there is snow on the Peak.

_Thursday, February_ 25.--Mr. Keytel has met with many discouragements,
but if the Government will grant him certain concessions he fully intends
to return. He said one day, "I think most men would have thrown the whole
business up"; and truly I think they would.

_Thursday, March_ 4.--The vine on the house is growing at such a rate;
rather more than a third of the front of the house is now covered with it,
and it has actually grapes. Not much has been done in the garden this year
on account of the fowls, but we have had a few vegetables. The cucumbers
have done well. I cut one a day or two ago, which was a monster. There
being no bees here, the blossoms have to be set. Tomatoes never seem to
ripen on the plant.

_Wednesday, March_ 10.--Now that our time is probably so near to a close
it gives rather an unsettled feeling. The _Greyhound_ is expected in ten
days' time.

Yesterday every one, except Susan Swain, who has been ill, turned up at
the women's meeting--in all, twenty-one. At first few were able to follow
what was read, but now they enjoy it and laugh at the jokes. I always give
a short address at the end, and only hope it may be a little help to them.

To-day I found old Eliza Hagan here when I came back from school, and
induced her to stay to dinner. The Hagans were thrashing wheat in her
house, so she was glad to get away. She is such a kind old soul, and never
says an unkind thing of any one. She is so big that I always tremble lest
the chair should give way.

We often talk of the _Greyhound_ and how we shall manage on it. It is
really a question of where they can put us. I expect Ellen and I shall
have to sleep in the hold, and as for a place to have meals in, I do not
believe there is any. I shall rather enjoy the experience of roughing it
for a time. It will be something to look back upon.

[Illustration: ORANGES AND LEMONS]

_Thursday, March_ 11.--This morning Mrs. H. Green came with a present of
butter and eggs, it being Alfred's birthday. She asked us to tea this
afternoon. We were just going to sit down to dinner, and made her join us.
She went away directly afterwards, saying, "We must forgive her manners,
for she must get home." They were giving a birthday dinner.

_Monday, March_ l5.--A ship was sighted this morning; it was lost sight of
for a time, but later appeared again, when the men went out to it.

This afternoon Mr. Keytel invited the school-children to his lawn, a
square grass-plot behind his house, where he took photographs of them
playing various games. It was intensely hot. Later we played games in
earnest. On leaving each child received some prunes.

The men got to the ship at dusk and did not return till the early morning.
It was from London and going to Australia. The captain told the men that
he had seen in the paper that the _Pandora_ was coming here with the mail.
The people are quite excited about this piece of news, which will give
them a subject for conversation for some time to come.

_Friday, March_ 19.--On Wednesday a good many of the people went by boat
to the orchards at Sandy Point, and brought back sacks of apples.

We are quite proud of our cucumbers. To-day I measured one I brought in;
it was close on a foot in circumference. I have never seen such fine ones
at home, and I think these are more juicy.

We wonder each day whether it will be our last here.

_Saturday, March_ 20.--All eyes are scanning the ocean for the schooner,
and I may add, for the _Pandora_. I think Mr. Keytel is beginning to feel
he will be glad to get away.

One comes across curious types of human nature. The other day Bob Glass
sent to ask if he could preach on Sundays at the church when we are gone.
Graham replied, "No." Then he came to see him and said he had got the
learning, but Graham pointed out to him that it was the life that was
needed, and showed him that he had not this, because, to mention only one
thing, he was a notorious swearer, which he admitted. He came again the
next day or the day after to ask if his child could be baptized, and also
to ask if he might preach on Saturday afternoon at the church-house, as
there were several of the boys who wanted to hear how he could do it. The
child was baptized on Sunday.

_Tuesday, March_ 23.--Ellen was amused the other day by one of the women
telling her that she had ready some nice fresh eggs for us when her turn
came to serve us, which would be a week hence.

We have been to look at the new house, which was begun yesterday. One side
is nearly up. The stone from an old cottage of Susan Swain's is being
used, which, being ready squared, saves a good deal of labour. The
fireplace, the most difficult part, was being built to-day.

_Friday, March_ 26.--We go up each evening to look at the house. The
stonework will be nearly finished by to-morrow. The measurement is forty
feet by twelve.

_Monday, March_ 29.--Each day we expect to hear a cry of "Sail, ho!" and
that our time of departure has come, but, of course, here things must be
uncertain, so we must just patiently wait.

On Saturday, in passing over Hill Piece, Graham and I saw smoke, and,
getting on to Burnt Hill, saw large burnt patches and smoke and flames
arising from various directions. Upon inquiry, we learnt that one of the
men had fired a piece to see if he could procure stone there. He had never
put the fire out, and it has been burning for three months. Probably it
will cover a good deal of ground before it dies out, which will mean so
much loss of pasture for the cattle. Graham went to-day to see what he
could do by trenching and so cutting off a small plot. The soil was at
burning heat quite a foot deep.

CHAPTER XXXVII

On the _Svend Foyne_.

_Monday, April_ 5.--Well, we are on our homeward road at last! I must go
back and relate events from the beginning. On Wednesday afternoon, feeling
a little tired, I had taken my chair outside in front of the cottage and
nearly fell asleep. I fancied I heard a sound of "Sail, ho!" but thinking
it was the children at play, I thought no more of it, although Rob at once
looked up. Presently two of the young girls rushed down to the house,
calling out, "Three steamers from the westward." I jumped up at once, and
we set to to collect everything that had to be packed. Mr. Keytel and
Repetto appeared and told us the men would soon be starting for the
steamers, which were coming close in. It was arranged that Repetto should
stay and Henry Green carry on the negotiations with the captain, who was
to be asked to run up a red flag if he were willing to take us. The men
soon got off, but were not able to intercept the steamer, which got in
front of them, and it looked at one time as if there were no hope of
overtaking it. They hoisted a sail in hope of attracting the captain's
attention. Between our packing we kept anxiously looking out at them, and
before very long went up to the Repettos' house, where we could see
better. After some time of anxious watching the steamer seemed to be
slowing down, and at last we saw the boats get alongside. There was a
concourse of women and children at the Repettos' house, and I shall not
forget Mary's anxious little face as she keenly watched the movements of
the steamer. When she saw it was slowing down she fled into the house.
There I found her behind the door, weeping bitterly, as well as Martha,
and did my best to comfort them. Before very long the boats came back and
we went down to the shore to hear the news. It seems that when the captain
heard they had things for barter he said he did not want anything. Then
Henry Green called out could he have a few words with him, as he had a
message to give him from the minister. This was allowed; so Henry went on
board and put things so well that, after some consideration, the captain
said he would take us, and would wait till eight that evening, and even
until ten. "No," said Henry, "that won't do; it isn't fit weather for them
to come off tonight; it'll be better to-morrow." Finally the captain said,
"I can't wait for them longer than eight o'clock to-morrow morning. If
they are not here by then I must go." He was anxious to coal his two small
steamers, and had come close to the island expecting to find smoother
water in which to do so. He told us afterwards he only took us because he
knew how difficult it must be to get off the island. It was a reprieve to
know we had not to leave that night; it gave us time to go round and say
good-bye to all the old people. Some of them, especially Eliza Hagan,
Betty Cotton and Martha Green, felt it very much. Mr. Keytel made up his
mind to throw in his lot with us and not wait for his schooner. We were up
till midnight, and were up again soon after four, when it was quite dark.
We had breakfast at half-past five, as Graham had arranged for a service
at six. To this service men, women and children came to the number of
sixty. We had two hymns, "Jesu, meek and gentle," and "Fight the good
fight," two or three prayers, and a few words of farewell. Old Eliza,
Susan Hagan and Betty followed us back into the house and stayed till it
was time to leave for the shore. We had prayer together and then we went
down to the beach. Nearly every one was there to bid us good-bye. I think
the little boys were very happy, feeling they would have no more school,
but the women and girls were almost in tears. The boats were at last
ready, and we followed them as they were pushed to the brink of the water,
then got in, and the men--waiting for an opportune moment, for there were
breakers--pushed off, sprang in and bent to their oars. It took about
half-an-hour to get to the ship, which was a large iron one. Our boat
waited close by till those in the first one had gone on board. One or two
waves had splashed into the boat, and I found myself sitting in a pool of
water. When our turn came a grimy rope was put round our waists, and we
had to clamber up a steep iron ladder as best we could, coal-besmeared
faces looking down upon us from above. As soon as the baggage was on board
the order was given to go ahead. Many of the men when they came to say
good-bye were in tears; Henry in particular seemed to feel the parting. We
watched them getting into their boats and waved adieux as they sped on
their way homeward.

Now I must tell a little about the ship, which is a Norwegian whaler of
4,000 tons, and has accompanying it two little steamers, on each of which
is mounted a gun, from which the harpoon is shot. The captain is returning
from the South Shetlands (south of Cape Horn), and has caught 392 whales
of two or three varieties. Below are 8,000 barrels of oil, which he is
taking to Cape Town to be sent on from there to an English or Scotch
market.

_Wednesday, April_ 7.--I forgot to mention that Joe Hagan, one of last
year's arrivals and a very decent fellow, managed through Mr. Keytel to
get a passage.

The day we left there were clouds over Tristan, and to my disappointment
we could not see the Peak, which I have not yet seen. The island was
visible most of the day. We kept on deck all day, but towards evening our
sea troubles began. Some of the oil being stored in tanks caused the ship
to roll more than it ordinarily would. From that Thursday evening till
Monday morning neither Graham nor Ellen came up-stairs, and were really
very ill. I could just manage to get out of my bunk and crawl up-stairs on
to the sofa in the tiny saloon, which was heaped up with our small
luggage, and was the home of the two dogs, Rob and Scotty. The utmost I
was capable of these two days was twice a day to look in upon the
invalids. Happily, we had the kindest of stewards, with the softest of
voices, who looked well after them, and Mr. Keytel did all he could. On
Sunday there was a moderate gale, but Monday was calmer, and we all
revived and got out on deck.

Ellen had been given some apples before starting, the islanders telling
her they were good for seasickness. Feeling a little revived, we thought
we would like to try them, so she brought us some. Presently I heard an
exclamation from her, and found she was looking at the paper in which the
apples had been wrapped. In putting them away she had recognized in the
paper a portrait of my eldest brother. On looking at the paper, I saw his
portrait and that of his intended bride, with a notice of his approaching
marriage. This was the first intimation I had of my brother's engagement.
It seemed so curious that of all the papers that came from that ship, this
should have been the one little bit of them to reach us, and that, too,
after we had left the island. We always saw any papers brought from ships,
but these from the London ship, which was boarded about a fortnight ago,
did not come into our hands.

Poor Graham is very much run down and looks as if he had put on twenty
years. It is the greatest mercy that we have come by this steamer and not
by the schooner.

It is quite an interest to watch the small steamers ploughing behind.
Sometimes the waves wash right over their decks. As the sea is not smooth
enough for them to be coaled from the large steamer, they have had to be
taken in tow. This will delay our passage, but the captain expects to be
in Table Bay on Thursday evening. We are having beautiful weather and are
able to be on deck all day long.

_Thursday, April_ 8,--We cannot feel thankful enough that we were given
passages on this steamer. Mr. Keytel is glad too, and has been able to
learn a great deal about whaling from the captain, with whom he talks by
the hour. We cannot say too much of Captain Mitchelsen's kindness and
generosity. When Mr. Keytel asked him what we were indebted to him, he
would hear of no payment, though Mr. Keytel urged it again and again. At
last he said, "If you like you may pay the steward for the food, but
nothing more."

_Royal Hotel, Cape Town, Saturday, April_ 10, 1909. Here we are, and so
thankful to be on shore. Thursday, our last night on board, was rather a
bad one; the ship rolled horribly, on account of slackening speed, and
scarcely any one slept. We were astir betimes, and much enjoyed the beauty
of the outline of coast. It was delightful to feast our eyes on the bright
sunshiny shore dotted with red-roofed houses. It was a beautiful day, and
Table Mountain and the town looked very fine as we rounded in. We anchored
in the Bay, and soon plying round us were numerous little motor-launches.
The Port Doctor did not appear till long after the other officials
because, I suppose, it was Good Friday, and then had to go back for
papers. In consequence of this delay we did not leave the ship until the
afternoon. The poor dogs were not even so fortunate, having to be left
behind till the morrow to be passed by the veterinary surgeon. We embarked
on one of the launches, and I must say it was delightful to step ashore
and to enter what seemed to us almost a new world.

That evening we found our way to the cathedral, and I think we could from
our hearts give thanks for all God's goodness to us. When we started forth
four years ago I rather dreaded facing the world, but all along our path
we have met with the greatest kindness and have made many new friends. In
all we see God's guiding Hand; and very especially did the arrival of the
steamer at the very time we would have chosen make us feel conscious of
God's loving kindness and tender care.

APPENDICES

_A_. THE FAUNA AND FLORA OF TRISTAN

There is nothing peculiar to Tristan in either its Fauna or Flora. Of the
birds those we saw or heard most of were:--

1. The Gony, the Wandering Albatross (_Diomedia exulans_). A few lay on
Inaccessible but none on Tristan.
2. The "Pe-o," the Sooty Albatross (_Phoebetria fuliginosa_). Comes to
nest in August, leaves in April.
3. The Molly, Yellow-nosed Mollyhawk (_Thalassogeron chlororhyncus_).
Comes to nest in August, leaves in April.
4. The Sea-hen, the Southern Skua (_Stercorarius antarcticus_). Is in
all the year, begins to lay in August.
5. The Black Eaglet, the Long-winged Fulmar (_Aestrelata Macroptera_).
Comes in to moult in May; lays first week in July.
6. The White-breasted Black Eaglet. Lays in November.
7. The King-bird, the Kerguelen Tern (_Sterna Vittata_). Comes in
September, and lays in November.
8. The Wood-pigeon, the "Noddy" (_Anous Stolidus_). Comes in September
and lays in November.
9. The Night-bird, the Broad-billed Blue Petrel (_Prion Vittatus_).
Comes in July and lays in September.
10. The "Pediunker," lays in May and June; it is like a Petrel. We think
it must be the Shearwater (_Profinus Cinereus_); of which we were told at
the South African Museum, Cape Town, that it frequents Scotland, and that
its nesting-place was unknown until Mr. Keytel brought a specimen of it
and of its eggs from Tristan in 1909.
11. The Starchy, the Tristan Thrush (_Nesocictela_). A land bird. No
song.
12. The Finch, the Tristan Finch (_Nesospiza Acunhae_). A land bird.
13. The Penguin, the Rock-hopper Penguin (_Catarrhactes Chrysocome_).
Comes to moult in March; comes again in August and lays in September. Last
year's young ones come to moult in December.

The first name is the island name. "Pe-o" and "Pediunker" are attempts at
spelling.

The fish we saw at Tristan were:---

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18