Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

K >> K. M. Barrow >> Three Years in Tristan da Cunha

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18

We are not nearly straight yet; the difficulty is where to put everything.
There is one small cupboard in the sitting-room, but only bottles can be
kept in it as it is so damp. I keep some of the stores in my old
school-box in the ante-room.

Graham has been writing for the people to the King, to thank him for the
message which he sent them through Lord Crawford.

_Monday, May_ 7.--We do all our writing in the evening. Since we have been
here three ships have been sighted. One was four-masted and came in quite
close. It was a misty day with a rough sea. This last week the weather has
been delightful, sunshine day after day with very little wind.

[Illustration: HILL TOP. INACCESSIBLE IN THE DISTANCE]

Last evening after church we went for a walk accompanied by the two
bachelors of the island, Tom Rogers and Bill Green. We went westward over
a rocky common to get a view of Inaccessible. We could see it most
clearly. It was my first view of it. It did not look far off, but is in
reality about twenty-five miles away. There was a most beautiful sunset,
the sea being quite lit up.

CHAPTER VII

We are settling down to our daily routine. I go up to school each day at
10.30 now and take Class II in writing for half-an-hour before the
infants. I have had to drop "pen pointing to the shoulder." Some of the
children are very attractive.

Not counting our household of three, there are now seventy-two people on
the island--thirteen men, the eldest being forty-nine; twenty women, the
eldest about eighty; and thirty-nine children. There are four families of
Swains, not including old Caroline Swain, the invalid; three of Greens,
not including the bachelor Bill Green; and two of Rogers. Mrs. Sam Swain,
sister of Tom Rogers, has five daughters whose ages run from twenty-one to
nine years. She lost a girl of twelve about two years ago from asthma. The
Repettos are nice children and very intelligent. A boy of fifteen, William
Rogers, who is very staid, comes every morning to fetch water and chop
wood. He is so anxious to learn. Sometimes he has to go to work, but he
comes to school whenever he can. He has most curious sight: in the daytime
he can see all right, but at night, even in a lighted room, is not able to
see a thing that is handed to him; he says he is "night blind." This
afternoon we invited Betty Cotton, of whom we have not seen much lately,
in to tea. I think it gave her great satisfaction. She has been in need of
spectacles, and I was able to suit her with a pair.

Rob got into disgrace a few days ago. When out with Ellen he suddenly
rushed off up the mountainside and chased a sheep to the cliff. It was so
frightened it jumped down about thirty or forty feet and fell on its side
panting and bleeding. Happily, it was not seriously hurt. The owner,
Andrew Hagan, has not made much of the occurrence. I am glad to say he at
once rode off on his donkey in search of it. Graham went too, and not
finding the sheep, took Rob to some others and gave him a thorough
whipping. We carry a whip when we take him out now. What he loves is a run
on the sea-shore where he can scamper about after sea-birds. We like a sea
blow too, and there is not such a feeling of loneliness on the shore here
as there is at many seaside places.

_Wednesday, May_ 9.--Today has been rather an eventful one. Rain began to
fall early, was still falling when Graham went off to school, and before
long began to come down in a deluge. At first Ellen and I were kept fully
occupied getting basins and pans, as the rain was coming through the roof
and ceilings in all directions; in several places in the sitting-room, in
the bedrooms, and in the kitchen where it was pouring down the walls. We
hardly had breathing time before a fresh place was discovered. Then I
heard Ellen call me to come and look. She was gazing out of the passage
window at the brook which had now become a torrent. It was sweeping past
the house, and spread out like a flood up to the very walls. Streams were
flowing down the mountain; it was a scene of water. I heard a distant
sound like thunder, which afterwards we learnt was a body of water that
had descended from the mountain and cut a gully of--I do not know now many
feet deep and broad; carrying away the bullock road across Hottentot Gulch
and two poor sheep. About noon the rain abated. Bob Green, a near
neighbour, very kindly came in while it was still pouring to reassure us.
But Ellen and I were not at all alarmed; we just thought it was an
ordinary event. It seems, however, the people cannot remember another such
deluge. In the afternoon the sun came out and Graham and I, escorted by
William and Johnny Green went to look at the deep channel the rush of
water had made. We met several mothers who had been to the spot. The chasm
will have to be filled up and a new road made. Repetto and Andrew Swain
have been in for a chat this evening. The former said when he looked down
upon this cottage it appeared to be standing in a pond.

I am getting to know the children now. Some of them in appearance might be
little English boys and girls. Charlie Green, a brown boy of about four
years, is quite a character, but almost impossible to teach; he guesses at
everything. If you ask him what letter you are pointing to, he gazes in
your face and guesses, and if you tell him he must look at the letter and
not guess, he does the same again, and will interrupt others to guess
wrong; his cheeks all the time are dimpled with laughter and his eyes
dancing with merriment. To see him do his physical exercises, especially
arms to the shoulder, when he pushes out his round little chest, is too
comical.

By the second Sunday the bell given by the congregation of St. Andrews was
up. It has been hung in the loft of the church. It rings for church and
school and has a very good tone.

_Sunday, May_ l3.--The 10.30 and three o'clock services are attended by
nearly every one. Graham reads and speaks very slowly so that the people
may take in what is said. This morning he spoke on the verse beginning "He
that believeth on the Son hath everlasting life." We find the people much
more intelligent than we expected.

We had Sunday visitors as usual, namely, John Glass, his wife, and Bob
Green. They stayed on and on and it was getting towards seven o'clock. Bob
was the first to leave, but soon came back and called Glass, saying
something about a fire. We went out and saw such a blaze close at hand.
Lavarello's lamb-house, which is a long, low, thatched hut, was on fire. A
strong south-west wind was blowing, and sparks were flying in countless
numbers. A few fell round this house, but the house in real danger was
John Glass's, which is next to ours. The sparks were raining on the
thatch, and in the glare we could see figures running about and emptying
buckets of water on the roof. Graham went off to help. The fire burnt
furiously for a time, and I could feel the heat of it as I was standing at
our back door. Before very long it began to go down, though sparks were
still flying about. Happily, Lavarello had been able to get his sheep out
in time. It will be rather a loss for him as wood is not easy to get. The
fire is thought to have originated by Henry Green losing his cap in the
wind, and getting a fire-brand to look for it, a spark from which must
have been blown on to the tussock roof.

It is curious how, whenever a ship is boarded, colds go the round of the
settlement. We were talking to Repetto about this, and he told us he did
not at first believe it, but has seen it proved again and again. The usual
thing has happened after the visit of the Surrey, and many are now laid up
with colds. The other day John Glass asked for some brandy for his wife,
who was one of the first to succumb. We knew it would not do to begin
giving brandy for such an ailment, yet felt we must prescribe something.
By a bright inspiration Graham suggested a teaspoonful of glycerine in hot
milk, to be taken at bedtime. This proved most efficacious, and is so
appreciated now that the applicants are many. Rebekah Swain told me today
that after taking it she had never coughed again! Half a good-sized bottle
has already gone. One day Repetto came for a remedy for his rheumatism,
brought on by exposure to cold and wet. I went to the medicine chest to
see what it could produce, and found the very medicine for his case. A day
or two later, inquiring after him, I heard he was very poorly, and began
to wonder if the tabloids were answerable for this. However, the next day
he was much better, and told me they had eased the pain at once.

_Thursday, May_ l7.--Every one is looking out expectantly for a ship, and
many letters are waiting to be dispatched by it. About thirty were
entrusted to us by people on the _Surrey_, who wished to have them sent
off from her as a matter of interest. I have printed "Tristan da Cunha" on
the envelopes. Every one places great hope in a man-of-war coming in
December.

The people are now living on meat and potatoes, varied with fish. They
have no flour, and I should say are oftener without it than with it. They
get so tired of the same food. Crawfish, which answer to our lobsters,
seem to be plentiful and are quite a treat. Rebekah the other evening
caught about a bushel, and says she has caught as many as five bushels at
a time.

We are touched by the way in which the people give us of their little.
Mrs. Sam Swain brought us som carbonate of soda--called here "salaradus"--
for making bread, as we had failed in a yeast we had tried. Another Mrs.
Swain brought us some more, and on my saying we did not like to take it,
her mother, Mrs. Rogers, said, "We are pleased to do all we can for you."
The people are so gratified at having their children taught. A Mrs. Hagan
began bringing us tea and milk each day in the school interval. We thanked
her, but would not let her go on doing it.

It is amusing to watch the boys bringing their cows home to be milked;
often they hang on to their tails. The cow sometimes has a contrary fit
and will run in the wrong direction; the boy hangs on till the cow thinks
better of it and turns in the right direction. The cows are small and very
thin. In the winter many die for want of food, and this winter, I fear,
there will be a great scarcity of grass as the late flood brought down a
great deal of mud on the west side of the island. The people grow nothing
to feed their cattle with in the winter. Their sheep do very well as they
can climb to higher pastures. Ben Swain, the man with deformed arms, does
chiefly shepherd's work. He is a son of Susan Swain the school-mistress.
Although about thirty-five years old, on wet days he intends coming to
school, and started yesterday. He was taught by Mr. Dodgson to write,
which he does kneeling down and holding the pen in both hands. His sister,
Rebekah, also comes occasionally. I now take Classes I and II in writing;
it is really hard work as I have to be constantly looking at each Pupil. I
should like to visit the people, but have not been able to do much in that
way yet.

_Monday, May_ 2l.--We have had such a lovely day, just like summer; it is
hard to believe winter is approaching.

Before school we were busy doing laundry work. The children are getting on
so well with their lessons. On Sunday Graham catechizes them on the
Scripture they have been taught in the week, and their answers are
excellent. I am getting quite fond of the infants. Charlie is very
fascinating; he has such a dark little face, straight black hair, large
brown eyes and such a comical expression. After some weeks of teaching he
has at last learnt A, but is quite ready to call it B. I have made up my
mind to devote my energies to the older infants. The parents are so
anxious their children should get on, and already Graham has been sent two
canes by two mothers, who were anxious they should be used. The people
often relate how Mr. Dodgson used the cane upon boys and girls.

This afternoon Graham and I went down to the shore and watched with much
interest Bob Green and his wife fishing from the rocks. Sophy Rogers and
Charlie, who was caressing the dog, were with them. Bob was catching
crawfish with a line without any hook, just a piece of meat tied on at the
end with a stone to weight it. He generally caught two at a time, and had
by the end a sack full. Ellen had been fishing with Mary Repetto, and they
caught eight.

CHAPTER VIII

There was such a happy scene here a few days ago. Graham was paving the
pathway in front of the house with big flat stones and had a bevy of
little boys helping. I much delighted them by giving each one an acorn to
plant. Next day I asked Charlie what he done with his. He replied, "It's
in a pawt."

_Wednesday, May_ 23.--This afternoon I have been very busy planting. The
boys came early, and Graham went down with them to the beach to get a load
of stones for paving. To the delight of the boys, the bottom of the "bus"
came out in crossing the stream, and all the stones fell into the water. I
saw the little boys hurrying up to the house, each carrying a wet stone.
"Bus" is the island word for "wheelbarrow." While the paving was going on,
I thought with William's assistance I would plant ferns in the wall.
Hearing roots were wanted the children began bringing all sorts. Before
school some nasturtiums were brought, then Sophy came with a large pink
geranium. There is a little berry (the crowberry) they eat here which I
think rather nasty; roots of this were brought, and also some sweetbriar
and wild geranium which has a very sweet smell. What especially pleased me
was a plant much resembling the blackberry. Gifts so poured in, it was
really difficult to know where to plant them all. Yesterday we put in some
strawberry plants.

I have been trying plaiting the leaves of the flax plant, which grows
luxuriantly here, and making a mat of them. I sewed the plaits together
with strips from the leaf. I am going to use the mat in church for the
boards are very hard to kneel upon. It is green and looks very artistic. I
contemplate making mats for the house, and with assistance might do enough
for the church. One or two old folk still have the kneelers given them by
Mr. Dodgson,

_Ascension Day, May_ 24.--A most lovely day and very hot. We had a short
school and then at eleven o'clock the children were all marched to
Repetto's house where there is a flagstaff. The flag had been run up, it
being Empire Day, and, marshalling us beneath it, Graham taught boys and
girls how to "hurrah." He was in his element. Afterwards he gave the boys
a lesson in skipping, and quite surprised me by his agility. One or two
tried and much enjoyed it, but the rest were too shy. Later on William
came to ask for another rope, and looking out of the passage window I saw
a group of boys watching big Ben the crippled man who was skipping with
intense enjoyment, and leaping about two feet into the air.

[Illustration: THE FLAGSTAFF]

At three o'clock we had service. Some fifty were present. Most of the men
were at work. Glass, for one, had been for wood and had had to swim round
the Bluff. He brought back some eaglet eggs, and sent us three which we
had for supper. They are about as big as a duck's egg, white in colour,
and of a slightly fishy taste. The fowls are not laying now. The weekly
supply arrangement is working well. I think eventually we may have a cow.

_Saturday, May_ 26.--We are only about fifty minutes behind Greenwich
time.

_Monday, May_ 28.--There was such a lovely sunset this evening; the sea
was the colour of indigo, in striking contrast to the sunlit sky.

_Tuesday, May_ 29.--As we were sitting down to breakfast we heard a ship
was in sight, but to our disappointment were almost immediately told that
it was too far east to catch. Another, a large four-masted one, was
sighted in the afternoon; but we were again disappointed, for it was too
breezy to put out to her.

_Whit Monday, June_ 4.--A change has set in; it was quite cold this
morning. I started laundry work directly after breakfast, and had all the
things out on the line in good time, but could not get up to school till
eleven o'clock.

It is curious what a difficulty even some of the bigger children have in
doing the simplest addition. To add one on to three is at times an
impossible task. But if you say three cows are in the yard and one more
comes in, how many are there then? their brain begins to clear.

I had quite an alarm this afternoon. Old Mrs. Rogers came in to say Graham
was up in a "tight" place on the mountain, and that the men had gone to
rescue him. Accompanied by her and Mrs. Repetto, Ellen and I set forth
towards Big Beach; others followed, and some stayed on the cliff to watch.
Glass. Ben, and Will Rogers had gone to warn Graham. Before long we could
see him returning with them. He had not got into any difficulty, but the
men had thought it was not a safe part to go to alone. We had intended
going that way to-morrow for a Whitsuntide holiday, but the men think it
unwise, so we are going in the opposite direction towards the potato
patches which we have not yet seen. An opinion expressed at Cape Town of
the people by one who had lately visited them does not at all coincide
with our experience. They were described as "a ruffianly-looking lot," and
the speaker was sure "there was one man at least who had had his knife
into some one."

_Thursday, June_ 7.--After all we did not get the Whitsuntide holiday, for
I was too busy. Ellen was in bed all yesterday with a bad headache and was
lying down most of the day before. So I have had the housework and cooking
to do. Graham helped before breakfast by cleaning the kitchen stove, and
afterwards by washing up after meals and undertaking the saucepans! I only
missed school one day. The elder infants are getting on nicely; the
parents of some are teaching them at home, and they are beginning now to
read small words. Most of the girls bring their knitting, and during the
interval sit on stones under the low wall and knit away till the bell
rings for them to go in again. I used to take mine, but devote the time
now to ruling slates. I am teaching Rebekah to write. Her writing is so
impossible I have had to start her with letters on the slate, and she very
sensibly does not resent this. To-day many visitors have been to inquire
after Ellen; they certainly are kind-hearted.

William, our factotum, is a thoughtful and kind boy. If anything is given
to him he shares it with his half-brothers. He comes three or four times
a day to ask if he can do anything, and generally when we are having a
mid-day rest! In the morning if he hears Graham has gone off to school he
is after him like a shot.

The people are extracting salt from the sea-water. They take large barrels
in ox-wagons to the shore to be filled, then they boil the water for
twenty-four hours, in fact till it is all boiled away. They use this salt,
when they have no other, for their butter, which it does not at all
improve; but the butter brought to us is generally unsalted. They never
make salt unless driven to it because the process involves the burning of
so much wood. They also make a black-looking soap, but very rarely, as it
takes days and nights to make, and requires not only much wood, but also a
good deal of fat which they can ill spare.

We have had many requests for envelopes, and today were asked for
paraffin, and also for flour for a sick baby. So far we have found the
people more ready to give than to ask. Another pair of stockings was
presented today, an offering from Mrs. Glass on her seventieth birthday.

The only word used for "afraid" is "skeered," and today when I asked the
infants why Adam and Eve hid themselves among the trees in the garden, one
answered, "Because they were skeered."

Repetto is a pupil of Graham's, and comes every Friday evening to read
English. He finds the pronunciation rather a difficulty. He has quite a
library, from which he has selected as a suitable book to lend to Graham,
William Penn's _Fruits of Solitude in Reflections and Maxims_. He is
making a cover for the harmonium out of two calf skins so that in wet
weather it can be taken to church.

_Sunday, June_ l0.--It was so windy today that Ellen and I went to church
wearing white silk handkerchiefs instead of hats. I felt a little shy at
being thus equipped, but soon got over it.

Wednesday, June_ l3.--We have begun a weekly _singing practice for the
school children; and as it is not always possible to take up the harmonium
we do without it, depending on a tuning-fork which was given to Ellen at
St. Helena. With some labour we have taught them a "Gloria" and a
"Venite." On the whole they are quick in learning a tune, but it must
first be sung to them. At to-day's practice two mothers appeared upon the
scene to see what we were doing. Some of the boys did not turn up, and I
heard afterwards that two parents had given their sons a "tanning," as
they expressed it, for not coming; and that this was so effectually
administered that one of the truants hid under a cart to conceal his
feelings.

CHAPTER IX

_Wednesday, June_ 13 (_continued_).--On Monday we went for an expedition
to the top of Burntwood. Burntwood is a grass-covered mountain slope at
the other end of the settlement, and is the easiest ascent to the Base. By
"the Base" the islanders mean the top of the cliffs which gird the island,
and which rise one thousand to two thousand feet. William appeared early
in the morning to say he had collected several donkeys and could get
saddles for them. At nine o'clock we started forth, Graham, Ellen, William
and I riding, Charlotte and Rebekah walking. It was decidedly difficult to
keep one's balance on a man's saddle. The reins--or rather what took the
place of them--consisted of a rope tied round the donkey's neck. We had a
ride of five miles over a rocky common and down some very steep pitches.
Graham gave us all much amusement. His donkey stumbled twice in
succession, and he went right over its head. At the bottom of the hill we
tethered the donkeys, and at once began the ascent. The distance up was
said to be two miles, which took us about two hours to climb. The first
part was over grassy mounds, but the latter portion involved a real
scramble. We had to stoop to get under trees, and to push through thick
brushwood, while in places it was so steep we had to get on our knees and
be pulled up. To make matters worse the ground was very soppy. We arrived
at the top somewhat exhausted. Graham spread his mackintosh and I lay down
on it thankful to rest. There was thick brushwood of phylica, of fern and
crowberry all round, and, tired as we were, I felt we could not make our
way through this. Graham and William went in search of water and soon
procured some. We had for luncheon captain's biscuits and chocolate, eaten
under a scorching sun. We had a beautiful view, and could see Nightingale
and Inaccessible quite clearly, the former island looking much the more
rugged. We stayed up about two hours. Graham and William went off in
search of eaglet eggs. They only secured one. The poor hen which they
caught was given its freedom, but unfortunately the dogs got hold of it.

Coming down was easy enough at first, but there came a time when I felt I
could do no more; the power seemed to have gone out of my legs, and
really, without help I do not know how I should have got down. At the
bottom of the hill we saw a cheerful fire burning. Charlotte had got down
first and was brewing tea. She and Rebekah had on their own initiative
brought a saucepan, tea and milk. We started home about 4.30 when it was
already getting dusk. Before long it was quite dark, but the donkeys knew
their way. It took us about two hours to get to the settlement. Two or
three men came out to meet us, and nearer home at Hottentot Gulch we were
met by quite a party who were carrying a lantern--Mrs. Swain and Mrs.
Rogers brought us some tea, which we drank sitting on our donkeys. I found
riding sideways on a man's saddle rather tiring, and I think we were all
glad to get home. Mrs. Bob Green also most kindly sent us in a brew of
tea. There were many inquiries as to how we had enjoyed the expedition, to
which we could honestly say very much, though for the next day or two we
felt very stiff.

_Thursday, June_ l4.--We are having a spell of cold weather. There is snow
on the mountains, and a good deal of hail has fallen. It is difficult to
keep warm at night.

_Friday, June_ l5.--A beautiful day, but a cold wind. We sat up late last
night over the fire warming our feet.

_Monday, June_ l8.--We shall be very glad when we get our letters off, for
we know how anxious our people must be to hear. A ship was sighted
yesterday far to the east. Graham said he thought he saw one when coming
from early Communion, but I could see nothing.

Yesterday (Sunday) it was so dark at the end of afternoon service that we
could not have the practice, so it has been settled to have service at two
o'clock, an hour which seems to suit the people better. The singing is
improving. We managed the "Venite" very well, and now mean to try the "Te
Deum." I intend to teach them a chant with three changes in it. In the end
perhaps we shall sing the Psalms. Yesterday the children sang with much
vigour "There's a Friend for little children." One little girl whose voice
could be heard above all the rest had a "strapping" from her father when
she got home for singing too loud, poor little thing!

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18