Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

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To-day the men put up a washing-stone at the east end of the house. Each
house has one near the water. The clothes to be washed are soaped, rubbed
and slashed on it. The women often come and help Ellen to wash, and to-day
Rebekah carried off some things for her mother to iron. I do my own things
myself outside the front door. Graham has been busy to-day whitewashing
the kitchen, and looked so comical in one of Ellen's aprons and with a
handkerchief tied over his head.

Mrs. Martha Green, Betty's sister, came to see us this afternoon. Poor
woman, she has never recovered from the shock of the boat accident. She
then lost her husband, two sons, two brothers, and, I believe, two
brothers-in-law. She presented me with a pair of stockings, the fourth
pair I have had given me, and Graham with a pair of socks, and said we
were to tell her when we were in want of more. She lives with her married
son Henry Green, and is the mother of Mrs. Repetto.

We fear a great part of our garden will be useless, as there is so much
white mould in it which rots the roots of the plants. The only way to get
rid of this mould which spreads very quickly is to burn it or cart it
away, so the people say.

_Tuesday, June_ 19.--Rebekah came in on Sunday for some glycerine for her
mother who suffers from asthma, or, as the people would say, "ashmere."
Her mother has taken it two nights running, and found it gave her much
relief. It will now be believed in more than ever.

_Friday, June_ 22.--On Wednesday night Glass came in to ask Graham if he
would go round the island with him and Tom Rogers. Graham was a little
doubtful at first on account of the school, but I promised to take it and
so he settled to go. They started off when it was only just light at six
o'clock on Thursday morning on three donkeys.

[Illustration: GOING WEST]

Ellen came up to help me with the school, and I managed all right. We had
an early lunch and spent the afternoon in needlework on the sea-shore. We
had planned a cosy evening, but at about six o'clock Mrs. Glass and
Rebekah with Mabel Hagan and Florence appeared. They said something about
spending the evening with us and stayed two hours much enjoying
themselves. Early this afternoon Mary Repetto came in with some wood and
told me the party were returning. I ran out to find Graham unsaddling his
donkey. He had had a fall over its head, but was none the worse. The
donkey, it seems, took a deep step as its rider was gazing at the scenery.
Graham looked tired, but said he had had a most enjoyable time. They rode
to just below Burntwood, where we were the other day; there they tethered
their donkeys and ascended the mountain to get past a bluff, and then
descended to the shore, along which they had a walk of about three miles
over boulders and stones. The two men made nothing of this walk, but
Graham says it was hard work for one unaccustomed to it, because it not
only bruised the feet but every step had to be chosen. They spent the
night in a cave on the beach, where they made a large fire and kept it up
all night. There were five dogs. Rob insisted on sleeping by Graham's
head, and occasionally put his long nose across his face. Graham had a
plank covered with tussock grass for a pillow and did not get much sleep.
In the middle of the night Rob rose up and went for another dog, and a
great fight ensued. The men had to get up, and with difficulty the dogs
were parted. Graham went for an early swim while the men cooked the
breakfast, which consisted of poached eaglet eggs and tea boiled in a
frying-pan. In drying a new pair of socks at the camp fire he almost
destroyed one by burning big holes in it. Rob enjoyed himself amazingly,
and learnt to hunt eaglets which nest in holes, but he had to be
restrained, as he would have killed the birds.

_Tuesday, June_ 26.--We have been having a spell of rain. Sunday was too
wet to take the harmonium up to church, consequently we had to start the
chants and hymns without an instrument. We got on all right until the last
hymn, at which we had three tries, then in desperation I made a stupendous
effort, and we pulled through. We had to have dinner at half-past twelve
to be ready for service at two o'clock. I was deep in slumber when at five
minutes to the hour Graham ran in to call me. It was a scramble, and I got
to church feeling half awake. The children answer so well, better than
children do at home; but then, of course, Graham knows exactly their
capabilities and catechizes on what he has been teaching in the week. The
people like learning new tunes, and sing them better than the old ones,
which they are apt to drawl. To keep up to the mark involves a fair amount
of practising at home, especially when you have no harmonium; you must
have the tunes and chants at your finger ends. For once we had the
afternoon and evening to ourselves, and sat over the fire in the dusk
talking over happy memories.

Monday was wet again. Just as we were sitting down to one o'clock dinner
Mrs. Hagan came in with her baby, saying she thought it was two o'clock.
She stayed on till after three, having been joined by her daughter.
Finally we left them to themselves, as I had yeast to make and Graham's
hair to cut. When I came back she had departed.

It rained in torrents last night and all to-day. School was impossible.
With a free day before us we felt like children, and were settling down
when William appeared with his reading-book. "Would Mr. Barrow 'larn'
him"; so Graham buckled to for over an hour. It is nice to see a young
fellow so anxious to learn. Later on he came in with his hand bound up. He
had cut it with a hatchet, happily not badly, and wanted me to dress it,
his mother having already put a cobweb on.

When Bob Green (William's step-father) came in with the milk he told us he
had seen a dead cow in the gulch. I fear it has died from wet and
exposure. I cannot bear to think of the poor beasts suffering so. One
winter more than a hundred were lost simply because there was not enough
food for them. They climb up the mountains in search of grass, and often
from weakness fall and are killed.

CHAPTER X

_Tuesday, June_ 26 (_continued_).--At the request of the Custom House
authorities at Cape Town we brought on from there some stores which had
been sent by a French firm to the Tristanites in return for kindness shown
by them to one of the firm's ships which had been on fire off Tristan. In
the reply of the people to the kind inquiry what stores would be most
useful to them the item "soap" was read as "soup," with the result that
four cases of tins of soup were received and no soap, much to their
disappointment, for soap is more prized than anything. We have lately made
the acquaintance of some of these soups, which the people do not care for,
as they have plenty of meat. Mrs. Bob Green sent us two tins of ox-tail,
for which we gave her a brush and comb, although she said she didn't want
anything. A few days later William appeared with a further supply, so
to-day we gave him two tins of jams to take to his mother. He persistently
said, "She don't want anything," but as we insisted, he finally went off
with them.

To-day the room has been rather like an Irish cabin, rain dropping through
the ceiling, puffs of smoke coming down the chimney, and wind blowing
through every crevice. At the fire on this hearth all the day's cooking
has had to be done. All the same we have been very cheerful and have
enjoyed a quiet day with few interruptions. I have been able to get
through some work, and have been busy making a cover for the Communion
cloth out of the material E---- gave us; with bands of white sateen and a
white cross in the centre it looks quite nice. Two little canaries I
brought from the Cape have had to be put by the fireside to be kept warm.

_Wednesday, June_ 27.--This morning to my dismay I found the rain had come
down the chimney on to the bowl of yeast which Ellen and I had prepared
with some labour, and had spoilt it.

Repetto came in this evening with the cover for the harmonium. It is a
clever piece of work. He turns his hand to almost anything, and can even
make his own suits. Tonight he was decidedly droll, and in his broken
language gave us a description of a certain wedding. There was only one
person, a woman, who was able to read the marriage service, and she would
not, as she did not approve of the marriage. It ended in the bride's
brother officiating, and, as he is no scholar, he had to spell out the
words as he went along. How we laughed!

_Thursday, June_ 28.--On Tuesday from half-past eight to midnight the rain
gauge measured four inches of rain. We hear about twenty-four cattle have
died. The cold wind and rain were fatal to them. The poor things could get
no place of shelter. Graham wants the men to build some sort of shelter
for the cattle, and those to whom he has spoken about it say it would be
an excellent plan.

This morning we heard a cheerful clucking of fowls outside our bedroom
window, and on looking out saw that the wind had blown the meat-safe over
and emptied its contents on the path. The fowls were having a fine feast
off the suet. Graham was just in time to save the half leg of mutton. We
live on mutton week by week. Very occasionally a bullock is killed. Last
week three families sent us beef.

_Friday, June_ 29.--We shall feel relieved when we get our letters off,
but at this time of year few ships are to be seen.

Mrs. Repetto came in pouring rain for some of the much-famed glycerine for
her baby who is ill. I gave her also camphorated oil to rub on its chest.

_Wednesday, July_ 4.--Bill Rogers brought us some vine cuttings which we
planted and with great care nailed against the front of the house. The
next morning one had been pulled up, probably by a pig. We suffer much
from the animals. Fowls are always roaming round, and snap up every bit of
green. Many of the ferns which we planted have been rooted up. A gate is
to be put at each end of the path which will keep those intruders, at
least the four-footed ones, from the front of the house.

Yesterday I started a women's meeting to which all over twenty years of
age were invited. Twelve came. I read some of the Gordon League Ballads to
them, and could see by their faces how much they enjoyed them. We had
three hymns, and I spoke to them for about ten minutes, ending with
prayer. I have given up the idea of teaching them reading and writing. I
do not think they are keen about it, and life is full without it.

I was amused the other day by hearing that William calls me "The old
missus."

Rob is quite an addition to our home. He is such an affectionate dog and
very intelligent. In the morning when Ellen opens the front door to let
him out, he will not go until he has first come in to say good-morning to
us, then he goes out cheerfully. On no account would he miss going to
school with me, and always expects to carry my basket. He has been less
troublesome about running the sheep, although yesterday he ran at a sheep
with a lamb. The sheep bolted, and when I whistled Rob he came bounding
towards us with the lambling running by his side. The lamb was only three
days old, and we had to carry it home, the mother having altogether
disappeared. At first we had some difficulty in supplying Rob with enough
food; but now he has taken the matter into his own hands and goes round to
the different houses and gets a liberal supply of meat and bones. He
always pays the Glasses an early visit, sometimes before they are up.

To-day Ellen and I gathered wood on the sea-shore and got such a quantity
we did not know how to carry it home; happily Alfred Green was coming our
way and "backed" it for us.

_Tuesday, July_ 10.--An eventful day--the one we have been looking for.
When I was resting after lunch there came a quick tap at the back door,
and William hurried in to say a ship was in sight. We all rushed out, and
getting on to higher ground saw her sails. We could also see our men
running home from their work. We stood at Bill Rogers' gate where others
had collected. They soon scattered to get ready to put off, though the
wind was high and the sea rough. Children were sent out to catch the
animals for barter. We came back to get our letters ready; among them were
orders for groceries to the Army and Navy stores and to Messrs.
Cartwright's at Cape Town. Mrs. Swain, junior, came in for our letters and
told us only four men were going, her husband, Tom and Bill Rogers and
Henry Green. We went down with her to the shore and met Ben who had come
to fetch our letters as the boat was ready to start. We saw them hoist
their sail and watched on with Mrs. Martha Green, Betty and Repetto until
it began to grow dusk. Mrs. Bob Green had tea with us, and a little later
Repetto came in anxious to have a talk. He and Graham stood at the front
door trying in vain to make out the ship. Soon others came in to ask for
oil and candle for their lanterns, so that they might be ready to meet the
returning boat. At about six o'clock we turned out and made for the fire
which had been lighted on the cliff. We had some difficulty in crossing
the stream as we had no lantern. Looking after the fire was Rebekah, and
later there came Mrs. Green, Alfred, Bob Green and the two other wives.
The wind was blowing cold, and we were glad to sit near the blaze. You can
picture the scene; pitchy darkness all round except where now and again
gleams of light fell on the sounding sea below and made dimly visible the
white line of surf. After staying some time, as there was no sign of the
boat, we and the women went home.

It is now nine o'clock and still no sign of the men.

_Wednesday, July_ 11.--As we were getting up news came that the boat was
returning. We went down to the beach and found every one there and the
boat just coming in. It had reached the vessel, which was bound for
Australia. Henry Green went on board, and the captain, who seemed a very
kind man, was able to let them have a barrel of flour, biscuits, and other
things, and would have spared more had there been time. Henry was only
about fifteen minutes on board. Our men made for Sandy Point, as the
landing was easier, and spent the night there. We are so thankful to have
got our letters off at last, and think they will reach home about the end
of September. [Footnote: They reached home early in October.]
The captain sent papers for the clergyman, which Graham was delighted to
have, and from which we learnt of the terrible eruption of Mount Vesuvius
and of the great fire at San Francisco. Among the papers was one from St.
Helena. As regards the stores obtained, only those who went out to the
ship and the widows will share in them. The rule is a man must go himself,
unless ill or absent, to have a share in anything obtained in the name of
the community. Sheep, geese, fowls, eggs and potatoes are the things
bartered. It has been very difficult to settle down to-day, and there was
only a short school. I did not go up to it, as I got my boots wet when the
boat landed. A wave swept in while I was trying to stop a quarrel amongst
the dogs. To get the salt water out of the leather my boots were put,
after island fashion, into the brook for a time and then hung upside down
on the garden gate to drain and dry.

_Thursday, July_ l2.--We had our choir practice as usual and took up the
harmonium, as we find with chants we cannot well do without it. The
children sang scales.

I try a little cooking now and again, and have made some fairly successful
potato scones. Ellen made some good bread this week with yeast. I claim a
little of the glory of it, as I did most of the kneading! We find we are
doing at present on one pound of flour a day for all purposes, but it has
to be used very sparingly. We now generally use our stove every other day,
as, though small, it consumes a good deal of wood which the people have to
go so far to get.

Graham has been busy plastering the holes in the walls of the house, first
filling them in with stone wedges. We have sent to Cape Town for lead for
the roof. It is only when it is raining very hard that the rain comes
through. The south wall in the sitting-room, passage and kitchen is a rich
green colour from the damp. The people say this winter has been the
wettest they have known for a long time.

_Friday, July_ l3.--We had our first sewing-class this afternoon. Thirteen
girls came. Nearly all produced thimbles, and their sewing was very much
better than I expected. Ellen superintended the little ones, while I read
aloud a book lent by Mrs. Susan Swain. We sat on forms near the door to
get as much air as possible.

_Saturday, July_ l4.--Graham was busy to-day whitewashing the front of the
house; it was not easy work, as the stone is so rough. John Baptist
Lavarello, a boy of twelve, and about the most intelligent lad here,
helped him.

CHAPTER XI

I have drawn up a list of the people, starting from the house furthest
east. The figures after the names denote the age.

1.
Mrs. Martha Green (widow).
Mr. and Mrs. Henry Green.
Alfred, 17.
Ethel, 15.
Maria, 11.
Johnny, 9.
Christopher, 1.

2.
Mr. and Mrs. Sam Swain, senior.
Charlotte, 21.
Lily, 19.
Ruth, 17.
Selina, 9.
Maggie, 7.
Bill Green (lodger).

3.
Mr. and Mrs. Repetto.
Mary, 11.
Martha, 9.
Susan, 7.
Arthur, 6.
Willie, 4.
Joe, 1.

4.
Mrs. Rogers (widow).
Tom.
Mr. and Mrs. Sam Swain, junior.
Harry, 7.
Edith, 5.
Tommy, 3.
Eliza, 9 months.

5.
Mr. and Mrs. Andrew Swain.
Fred, 12.
James, 9.
George, 8.
Rose, 5.
Clara, 3.

6.
Mr. and Mrs. William Rogers.
Arthur, 6.
Lizzie, 4.
Jack, 10 months.

7.
Mrs. Lucy Green (widow).

8.
Mr. and Mrs. Bob Green.
William Rogers, 15.
Sophia Rogers, 11.
Edward, 5.
Charlie, 4.

9.
Miss Cotton.

10.
Mr. and Mrs. John Glass.
Florence Swain, 3.

11.
Mrs. Mary Glass (widow).
Miss Caroline Swain.
Mr. and Mrs. Lavarello.
John Baptist, 10.
Robert, 8.
Willie, 6.
Percy, 3.

12.
Mrs. Eliza Hagan (widow).
Mr. and Mrs. Andrew Hagan.
Emma, 12.
Mabel, 9.
David, 5 months.

13.
Mrs. Susan Swain (widow).
Ben, 35.
Rebekah, 28.

Mrs. Lucy Green is living with Mrs. Eliza Hagan, and Miss Cotton in an
annexe to the house in which Bob Green lives.

_Wednesday, July_ l8.--This afternoon Ellen and I decided to try our hand
at craw-fishing, as the contents of our larder were rather low. She got
some meat from Mrs. Glass, and we set forth furnished with a pair of tongs
in place of a landing-net. As we neared the rocks we saw two figures
silhouetted against the rays of the setting sun which proved to be those
of Mrs. Glass and her daughter Mrs. Lavarello. We did not succeed in
catching anything, but Mrs. Lavarello gave us her catch of three crawfish
and two small fish. She caught an octopus, which they call cat-fish,
horrid-looking creatures:--how she could handle them I do not know.

Birthdays are thought a good deal of here. If a household possesses any
tea or coffee, then open house is kept for the whole day, and any one can
drop in from early morning till late in the evening and expect a cup of
something. On the first occasion of a birthday we were invited, but Graham
felt it would not be wise to accept, as if we went to one we should have
to go to all. We are always apprised of a birthday by a present from the
person whose birthday it is. The present may be a pair of socks or
stockings, or a hot dish of meat, or a pot of tea, or almost anything to
be had. Of course, we give something in return, often a tin of jam in the
case of an elder. The last birthday was Mrs. Hagan's, to whom we offered
the choice of a couple of candles or a tin of jam; she chose the former.
They much treasure a piece of candle.

We find our medicine chest greatly appreciated, and every remedy is
thought a great deal of. I gave two rhubarb pills to a patient, and was
told she had had no ache or pain since. She was rather poorly, and had
taken to her bed, having caught a chill the night of the bonfire.

[Illustration: IN SCHOOL]

_Friday, July_ 20.--This morning after first school I took a photograph of
the children.

We have been measuring our rooms. The sitting-room is 16 feet by 11 feet 6
inches. Our bedroom is 9 feet 9 inches by 8 feet 8 inches. Ellen's room 6
feet 8 inches by 6 feet. The kitchen 11 feet 3 inches by 6 feet 4 inches.
The height is 7 feet 2 inches.

_Saturday, July 21_.--Today it has been blowing a gale. I was up soon
after seven as it was baking day, but found it was no good attempting to
bake as the oven could never be heated with such a wind, so I raked the
fire out. Tomorrow we must do without bread. Graham started off early for
school, escorting home Mrs. Hagan, who had brought the meat. As they got
on to the rising ground they were both blown over, and coming back from
school he was blown down again. I didn't venture out, but nearly all the
children turned up, the younger ones being carried by their parents. This
afternoon, however, though it was still blowing, I went with Graham to the
foot of the mountain to get some drinking water at the spring. We do not
drink water from the stream outside, as on its way to us it passes other
houses, and we do not know what may go into it. Our bedroom today was
covered with dust from the thatch. Betty Cotton came in to tea. Sitting in
the armchair she chatted away most cheerfully. She has not lived all her
life here, but has been away twice to the Cape where she was in service.
She would have returned again to South Africa, but for her old father and
mother whom she stayed to look after. Her heart is really at the Cape. She
is one of those who tries to carry out Mr. Dodgson's teaching, and is
rarely absent from church. Another woman told Ellen today if she had to
creep on her hands and knees tomorrow to get to church, she would do it
rather than miss going. I believe Mr. Dodgson once actually did reach
church in this way.

_Monday, July 23_.--A poor cow of Andrew Swain's sank in the bog yesterday
and the men could not get it out. They succeeded, however, in rescuing one
of Lucy Green's; the poor thing looked so wet and miserable standing under
the wall of Lavarello's lamb-house. The cattle question is a very serious
one and ought to be dealt with. Repetto has been here this afternoon, and
Graham has been talking it over with him. The fact is, there are far more
cattle than there is pasture for. People who have left the island still
own cattle and sheep here, which ought not to be allowed, because there is
not enough grazing ground for the cattle of the residents. It is too
painful to see the cattle, they are so emaciated, and their back legs seem
hardly able to support their bodies. Repetto says they will look worse
still. We are hoping something may be done when the man-of-war comes.

_Tuesday, July 24_.--William told us Betty's cow that had been put in her
field adjoining this garden was ill. Graham went with the boys to look
after it and fed it with grass. This evening it was dead. Like the others
it died from starvation. Mrs. Lucy Green has lost two, the one that was
got out of the bog and another that fell over the cliff. We are determined
to do something if possible to stop the suffering. The pigs which are
allowed to roam at large do much damage by rooting up the grass.

There were only eight at the women's meeting today. Graham gave the
address. Mrs. Repetto, who had not been before, stopped on the common to
tell us "It was the best afternoon she had spent in her life, better than
any party." It was an encouragement when so few were there. Some are kept
away by having to go out two or three miles for milking, the cows being
too weak to be driven home. Betty and Martha Green could not come because
they were preparing a meal for the men who are carting manure to Betty's
potato patch. It is the custom to feed those who are working for you.

_Wednesday, July 25_.--I had to get up in the night as Ellen was feeling
ill. She had a bad pain in the back of her neck which was relieved by the
application of a mustard-leaf. She did not get up all day. So I was kept
busy, even with the assistance Graham was able to give before and after
school. As we had not baked for nearly a week, I had to bake bread as well
as to cook the dinner. Graham broiled the chops; the kidneys twice fell
into the fire, and were finally lost.

It has been raining most of the day. Mrs. Hagan told me a cow of hers had
fallen over the cliff and been killed. I was almost thankful to hear there
was one less to suffer.

_Friday, July 27_.--Before we were up William brought news that a ship was
in sight, but too far eastward to reach. Directly after breakfast the men
started shooting a bullock which darkness the night before had prevented
them bringing down. The poor creature was chased by men firing shots, and
it was some time before they succeeded in shooting it. Mrs. Hagan ran in
to say the ship was in sight again, and she thought the men were going out
to it. I went up to the school to see what Graham was going to do. We gave
a short lesson, dismissed school, and came home to finish our letters.
Repetto ran in to ask Graham if he were going. I went down to see them
off. I always enjoy seeing a boat launched and the men scrambling in as it
is shoved off. The only thing I do not like to see is the way the poor
animals are treated, tossed into the boat with legs tied, quite regardless
as to whether it hurts them. The two boats started about 11.30, and in
about an hour and a half reached the ship, having sailed most of the way.
I followed them on and off with the glasses. They got back about five, and
we could tell they had done well, for they were singing as they came in.
The vessel was the _Loch Katrine_, a sailing ship from Glasgow. The
captain for the last nine years had been trying to call, but the weather
was against him. He was exceedingly kind, and able to provide the
islanders with a good deal of food in exchange for what they had brought.
He let them have a large barrel of flour, biscuits, tea, coffee and sugar.
The bottom of the sugar barrel fell out and the sugar lay on the deck; but
that was soon remedied: it was all swept into a bag. The bag had contained
meat, but that was a small detail. One of the passengers on board bought
two sheep for the crew, and with his other fellow-passenger made many
exchanges with the islanders. The captain was most kind and generous to
us. He asked Graham if there was anything he wanted, so Graham named a keg
of butter. But that he could not provide, and asked if there was anything
else. Graham thought of bacon, and then the captain said would he like a
ham? Not only did he give that, but a large tin of arrowroot, a bottle of
pickles, and a bottle of preserved greengages; and sent in addition two or
three pounds of tea as a special present to me, saying he wished it were
something better. The steward, too, said he would like to send "the lady"
a present from himself, and sent six pieces of scented soap. It was
exceedingly kind of them. The captain said his life was a trying one,
there being anxiety and worry day and night. Graham got the time, and
found we were forty minutes behind. He was ill going and returning, but
soon felt better after he had got warm and had food, for he had virtually
had nothing since breakfast. How we enjoyed looking at our presents! After
such an exciting day we didn't sleep much. The letters will be posted in
Australia.

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