Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

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The men were not very successful on the ship which was a Scotch one bound
for Adelaide. They got about a barrel of flour and some peas and beans.
Graham got a tin of butter which we think is margarine. We are glad to
have it as we have had no butter for a long time. After a time one gets
accustomed to going without. Our present difficulty is to get food for
Rob. We do not think he gets much from the people now. We have just made
an arrangement with the Repettos to let us have meat twice a week for him
in exchange for paraffin oil. We got one or two books off the ship--
_Robert Falconer_, and _Youth and Duty_, by Bishop Welldon. We have much
enjoyed _Temple Bar_.

I have been turning out some summer clothes, and washing and mending them
in preparation for the possible journey to Cape Town.

_Saturday, September 29_.--There is no doubt the best way to come out here
from England is by a sailing ship bound for Australia, that is, supposing
the ship would accept passengers for the island. The passage takes from
forty-five to sixty days.

_Wednesday, October 3_.--Last Friday, after the working party, Ellen and I
started off with a great number of children for Hill Top, near which there
is a good deal of wood washed down by the flood in the early winter. The
children enjoyed helping us to gather it; much of it was embedded in the
mud. The men passing by on their way home also lent their help by carrying
home some of the loads in sacks on their donkeys. There was much laughter
over the loading of one of the donkeys which turned restive. We left a
large heap behind to be brought by William another day. The oxen are so
weak they are hardly fit to draw even a light load. The dead cattle now
total three hundred and forty-eight.

[Illustration: PAIR OF PENGUINS ON A PORCH WITH TWO BOYS]

On Sunday William brought in a penguin which Sophy had caught. It is a
most droll bird in appearance, and has a yellow and black top-knot which
it raises when excited. It walks very erect--if walk it can be called--
sometimes jumping like a man in a sack, and sometimes waddling like a
bow-legged child. In the place of wings it has black flippers, and when
it walks these stand out like sails which adds to the droll appearance.
This is the bird from which the people extract the oil which they
generally burn, but it gives a very feeble light. On special occasions we
have requests for paraffin oil, of which, fortunately, we brought a good
supply.

Mrs. Andrew Swain has a little son. I have been once or twice to see her.
There is always some neighbour sitting with her; to-day there were three.

Graham has been getting soil from the farmyards to spread over the field
which is being put up for hay, and the wall of which he has just finished
repairing. The oxen are doing the drawing, but it is very slow work, and I
expect this year he will have to content himself with half the field. I
fear the flowers will not do very well because of the wind, but still if
only a few grow it will be something to look at. I should like to try
anemones.

Mollyhawk eggs are just in. They are large in size, of a long oval shape,
and with reddish-brown markings and spots. The men say this bird never
lays more than one egg each season.

_Sunday, October_ 7.--I got up about 6.30, made the beds and put the room
straight before early service. After breakfast I generally practise hymns,
and John Glass, who takes the harmonium up to church, comes in early, as
do William and some of the boys, to listen to the music. Confirmation
classes begin this week. Graham intends holding them twice a week, and
hopes men will attend as well as women. The Bishop told us that if a
man-of-war were sent he quite hoped to come by it.

_Tuesday, October_ 9.--John Glass has made each of us a pair of moccasins.
He brought them in with much satisfaction on Saturday evening, and we at
once tried them on. They are made with rather pointed toes which do not
quite suit our feet. They have to be put on damp so that they may take the
shape of the foot; and when they get very hard, as they do in summer, have
to be soaked in water. They soon wear out, generally not lasting longer
than three weeks, as the ground is so rocky.

Repetto is writing letters to be corrected by Graham, and really writes
them very well for one entirely self-taught. He and his wife are most
generous people and are always sending us small presents. I shall have
some quaint mats and little bags of skin made by the people to bring home.

The Hagans have lost the grey cow they watched over with such care. They
started slinging it too late, with the result that it got so bruised by
the constant falls it could not recover from them. Now they have only one
left, and the Repettos also have only one. The people depend much on their
milk.

An east wind has been blowing the last few days which tries the trees and
plants. The little peach-tree against the house is almost done for. I
protect the small seedlings in the garden by putting tins round and over
them. Plants are almost twisted out of their sockets.

_Thursday, October_ 11.--Yesterday Graham began the Confirmation Classes.
Most of the elders attended--nine men and fifteen women.

John Glass came in to-day to have his hand treated. It was much swollen
through, as he thinks, the bite of an insect. He had left it nearly two
days uncared for.

_Monday, October_ l5.--On Sunday morning just before service Mrs. Bob
Green came in for a remedy for her husband's foot which was badly swollen,
and from her account it also seemed to have been bitten by an insect. I
went across and found she had bathed it in hot water. We bathed it again,
adding soda. To-day it was very much better and our services not required.
Their little girl was christened yesterday Annie Gertrude Ellen.

Graham rose this morning about four o'clock to make an expedition up the
hill with William, Ben and several women. They got to the point where they
would have to climb, but rain coming on it was thought wiser to go no
further. Instead, they descended to the shore to pick up firewood.

This afternoon was rather harassing. Ellen was at school, and I had just
begun baking when Mrs. Martha Green appeared. She brought a beautiful pair
of stockings knitted by herself with great care, and also a present of
eggs. She stayed nearly two hours. I called Graham to my aid, for I could
not leave the bread. He took her round the garden, and by the time she
came back I was able to get some tea made. While we were having it Rebekah
came with a request for some sugar for an ailing child. A little later a
gift of eggs was brought, with a further request for sugar for a baby. The
people nearly always bring something when they come to ask for anything.
It is a busy life here; some days there seems no quiet, it is knock, knock
all day. I am beginning to feel the solace of gardening.

_Saturday, October_ 20.--On Thursday a meeting was held on the question of
a schooner coming to buy up cattle and sheep. Much had to be talked over.
Every one has given the number of cattle and sheep he or she will sell.
The question is whether there are enough to make it worth while for a
schooner to call. They hope to have also for sale about L60 worth of
potatoes and some wool. It is difficult to tell what the cost of a
schooner will be.

_Monday, October_ 22.--Almost every day one or another comes for medicine
or for medical treatment. To-day John Glass came in with a badly cut hand.
The simple remedies we brought have been a great boon.

_Wednesday, October_ 24.--It is little Joe Repetto's birthday. He has
brought a pair of socks for Graham, a pair of horns for Ellen with one of
his curls tied on to them, and a pair of horns for myself. The horns are
those of bullocks, and have been beautifully polished and mounted by his
father. I had made a little white pinafore for Joe. He is two years old
and has been coming to school for the last week or so, and behaves
admirably. He sometimes falls asleep, and I have to take him on my lap as
I teach.

We are daily hoping a ship will be coming this way. Betty Cotton says she
never remembers such a time of scarcity,--no potatoes, no milk, and no
flour. There is a little milk now, and the people are most kind in sending
us some even when it is not their week for serving us.

Poor Rebekah has lost the cow she took so much trouble over. A fatal
swelling of the throat set in. I saw a poor cow (with its calf) this
afternoon in its eagerness to get at some food which was being brought it,
fall over, it was so weak.

Last night Repetto, Mrs. Hagan and Rebekah were here. We tried to make
them see the importance of growing corn, which we think could be done if
it were shielded by flax; and also of starting enclosures near their
houses for growing trees; but they are difficult to move and have not the
same enterprise as the former generation. We have not been able to get any
more dressing for the field. That part which has had it looks so different
from the rest.

CHAPTER XIV

_Monday, October_ 29.--On Saturday night there was such a gale from the
north-west, and the sea was higher than it was all the winter, washing
right up to the cliffs. We found sad destruction in the garden on Sunday
morning, the flowers and vegetables being shrivelled up as if there had
been a severe frost, even the grass and docks looked black; the peas which
were in a most flourishing condition are ruined. Almost the only flowers
that have not succumbed are those that were sheltered. Next year I shall
try walled divisions on the flower-beds. Happily, the wind was not so
severe at the potato patches, and they have been damaged but little.

Mrs. Lavarello is suffering from a bruised leg caused by a fall on the
rocks when fishing. We urged upon her the need of resting it, but she
thought she could not because of her work. It is now so painful she is
obliged to keep it up almost entirely. I shall try to see her each day.
This afternoon Graham and I went for a long walk along the shore. Rain
coming on we tried to scale the cliff, but had to come down and return by
the shore, the wind and rain beating in our faces. By the time we got home
we were wet through, but felt all the better for the outing.

_Tuesday, October_ 30.--A very wet day. No Women's Meeting.

_Wednesday, October_ 3l.--We had been saying it looked as if the month
were going out without our seeing a ship, when to-day one appeared just
after school. Some of the men were out in a boat fishing, but were
signalled to by a fire being lit. They got back quickly, and the boats
started off by about two o'clock. It was bitterly cold and the sea rough.
Another ship was seen in the afternoon.

_Thursday, November_ 1.--The men returned last night. The ship was a
French one bound for Adelaide. They were not able to get any flour, but
got ship biscuits, a good quantity of rice, which, however, has weevils in
it, and a little coffee. Mrs. Repetto came in this evening with some of
the biscuits. I said I could not take them, but she would not hear of
"no."

To-day Glass and Tom Rogers have been putting up some small gates, made by
the latter, at the two entrances of the pathway leading to the front of
the house. They had to build up a part of one entrance with large square
stones; wood is scarce so the gates have to be small. With them we feel
much more private. Henry has given us some green paint of quite a nice
shade for the outside window-frames to match the green gates. The house is
beginning to have quite a respectable appearance.

I fear Mrs. Lavarello will be laid up some time with her leg. Charlotte
Swain bathes it three times a day. Mrs. Lavarello is a sister of John
Glass. She has been very kind to us in constantly sending fish and eggs.

We had a second gale the other day which blighted the potatoes, in fact,
quite cut them down. But the men say that with the rain which has fallen
since they will come on again. The flowers are already reviving.

[Illustration: EARLY MORNING FROM THE WEST, SHOWING SNOW IN CREVASSE, NEAR
PEAK]

Fourteen cattle died last week due to the wet and cold, making the number
of deaths three hundred and seventy.

_Thursday, November_ 8.--We were knocked up yesterday morning soon after
five by Repetto, who came to tell us that a steamer was in sight and that
they were going off to it immediately. In about ten minutes he was here
again for the letters. I was in my dressing-gown finishing a letter to
A----. Graham was finishing another to his sister and had to run down to
the boat with it. He was just in time, but had to wade into the water to
hand it in. The steamer had borne down upon the settlement very rapidly.
Graham so regretted he hadn't gone when he saw how close it had come in.
We felt we had perhaps lost an opportunity of a passage to the Cape we
might not get again, but really there was not time to dress and be off.
Graham worked off his disappointment by polishing away at the boots
and shoes. The men were soon back. The captain said he could only wait
half-an-hour, but stayed an hour. He let them have 300 lbs. of flour and
some other goods. Repetto was able to get some of the things we asked him
to try for, namely, bacon, lemons, a ten-pound tin of butter and some
apple-rings. The captain sent his kind regards and sent me a special
offering of tea and sugar. We have given the tea to the people as they had
none. The steamer was bound for Durban, and the captain, who was here the
year before, said he hoped to return in a month, and if he did would bring
more flour for the people. The islanders had to pay in cash. A passenger
on board presented them with a sovereign to buy food. The captain would
not let us pay for anything. Two and a half years later when we arrived
home in England we heard of another kind deed of the captain. He had
kindly taken charge of the letters to post at Durban, and noticing
one bearing our name most kindly sent to the address copies of some
photographs which he had that morning taken of the island. The fine view
facing this page is one of them. We have been scanning the papers and have
obtained a considerable amount of information from them. The steamer
hailed from a Cumberland port, and in a Maryport paper was a speech of
F----'s at Workington in support of the Liberal candidate. In the same
paper we read with regret of the death of Sir Wilfrid Lawson. In another
was an account of the fires on the Malvern Hills, and in a third a long
article on the "Welcome." [Footnote: A Restaurant and Home for girls,
Jewin Street, London.] The sugar was done up in a Birmingham paper from
which, however, we did not extract much beyond the attempt on the Russian
Premier's life. We feel we have come quite in touch with the world again.

On Monday there is to be another meeting about the trading schooner, but
we doubt if much will come of it. It appears from a book Repetto has that
the Cape duty on imported animals is rather high, and the men do not seem
inclined to come down in their prices. We are seriously contemplating the
future as regards food. We have been taking stock and find our stores are
getting very low. If we knew definitely a gun-boat was coming and would
bring our stores it would be all right, but alas we do not. One cannot get
very much from passing ships, so Graham is rather anxious we should go to
Cape Town to get a supply of food, if for nothing else. I expect it will
end in our going if a chance occurs.

Ellen is busy making a pale blue nun's-veiling blouse for Emma Hagan. You
would hardly have thought there would have been such vanities here. The
material was sent by some relations at the Cape. Every one tries to have a
new garment for Christmas Day, and some of the material which was brought
by the _Surrey_ is being kept for this purpose. I have been making a
pinafore out of a faded muslin blind for Sophy Rogers who is very short of
clothes; after being ironed it looks very nice and has given great
pleasure.

_Friday, November_ 9.--The strawberries are just beginning to ripen; they
are very small and more like wild ones. I have put zinnia seeds straight
into the ground, and shielded with tins they are coming up quite strongly.
The stocks have borne the wind better than any other flower. Marvel of
Peru is coming up strongly too.

_Monday, November_ l2.--We have had such a warm day, which makes us feel
summer is coming.

Yesterday in the midst of morning service one man after another went out,
and shortly I saw two little boats on the sea. A whaler had appeared and
all the men had gone out to her. We were sorry, for it meant trading on a
Sunday, and the people were not now short of food; but one must not be too
hard upon them. The whaler is from America and will probably be here for
two or three days. The islanders like a whaler better than any other
vessel, with the exception of a man-of-war, as it brings material as well
as food to trade with, and is glad of fresh meat and potatoes in exchange.
I can see the ship so clearly, the sun lighting up its white sails.

The meeting about the schooner took place this afternoon. One or two at
the last meeting got rather heated, but all were very quiet to-day. They
were not ready, however, to lower their prices and so nothing was done.
But, later, Henry Green and Repetto came in to say they had been round,
and the men had arranged to sell at a lower price so as to make it
possible for a schooner to come.

The rats are beginning to appear again. Last night we had a constant
tapping overhead; and this morning to her dismay Ellen found our breakfast
had been eaten up by them. The bacon had been placed on the window-sill
outside, a dish over it, and a heavy stone on the top. It was not a great
loss as it was hardly eatable. The milk-jug was also knocked over and the
precious milk spilt. We hope we shall be able to get some extra food from
the whaler; and some cocks and hens!

_Tuesday, November_ l3.--Yesterday shortly after we left morning school
Mrs. Bob Green rushed in to tell us William had seen a seal on the beach,
and that her husband had killed it, but that she had asked him not to skin
it till we had seen it. We went to look and saw a small party on the
rocks. Two seals had been secured, which was quite a find as a good price
can be had for the skins. Seals rarely come in here now, but a dozen or so
may be caught at Inaccessible.

We are having a whole holiday to-day owing to the presence of the whaler.
The men did not board her yesterday as there was a fog, and when it
cleared off and she came in it was too late for them to go out. They went
off this morning. Every one is in the greatest excitement. Dressed in
their best all went down to the beach to meet Betty and Martha's nephew,
Joe Beetham, who was coming on shore from the whaler. He was first brought
in here. Graham had met him at Cape Town; since then he has been to
America, where his home is. He has brought a large box of things for Betty
Cotton from her relatives there, which has quite cheered her up. I think
she is the only one on the island who does not care about living here. The
islanders have gone off again to the ship to make purchases. Beetham told
us the whaler is calling at Mauritius, so Graham has written a line to the
Bishop as he might like to hear how we are getting on.

I have started packing, for we must be ready to be off at any instant;
even at five o'clock in the morning!

_Sunday, November_ l8.--The men did not get back from the whaler till
nearly midnight. The captain seemed a somewhat difficult man to deal with
and undoubtedly got the best of the bargaining. His wife was on board, and
most kindly sent us a parcel of jams and soap.

Mrs. Sam Swain, senior, has a little girl, born last Friday. Her eldest
girl Charlotte is twenty-two. This birth makes the population
seventy-eight.

To-day a ship was to be seen in the far distance, it has been hanging
about; four of the men have gone out to it.

Graham spoke this morning to the people in church about Sunday trading. He
said he saw no harm in going out to a ship on a Sunday, but that they
ought not to trade on that day unless they were in real need. Mr. Dodgson
was very strong on this point.

We are ready packed so far as we can be when our boxes are our
chests-of-drawers. I think Ellen will manage all right while we are away.
She likes the people, and if she feels lonely can have one of the children
to stay with her. She will teach a little.

We have been thinking a good deal the last day or two of this time last
year when we were starting forth. It is a year to-day since we left
Southampton.

_Tuesday, November_ 20.--On Monday morning four of the men put out to a
ship going east, but she had got too far for them to reach her, a squall
driving her further out. It is curious to think that any day we may be on
our way to the Cape, but perhaps we shall not get there at all.

A meeting was held last Thursday to consider the quantity of food-stuff a
schooner should bring in exchange. It will be a great boon to the people
if we can get one to come. We think they would do much better if they
would go in more for sheep-breeding and keep fewer cattle. The return
would be much quicker; and the shipping of them much easier; and as the
weather here is uncertain the loading is an important matter. The sheep
are small, but the mutton is good. I do not think this place is suited for
cattle; it is too exposed; and the people lay themselves out so little to
provide either shelter or food for them. It is quite nice to see a few
cattle again grazing on the settlement which has been so destitute of
them.

Potatoes are now coming in, but the people do not like to begin eating
them too soon.

_Wednesday, November_ 21.--Graham has had an afternoon of it. First there
was a Confirmation Class, then another meeting about the schooner. The
food-list had to be revised and a list made of the requirements of each
family. Arrangements were also made as to our getting off from here. If a
steamer is sighted we are both to go at once; if a sailing vessel, which
will be much less likely to be going to South Africa, Graham will go off
with the men in the first boat. A second boat will await the signal from
the ship as to whether or no we can be taken. If we can I shall at once
embark in it with the rest of the men. Lots were drawn as to who should go
in the first boat. Of course, they like to be in the first as they then
have a greater chance of bargains.

In order to prevent delay in going out to a ship there is an excellent
system by which each family in turn has to provide the oxen, sheep and
geese needed for the public trading. The stuff in exchange for these is
divided round equally. The rule is for this public trading to be done
first. After it is over any who like can do private trading. They offer
for barter all sorts of things, sometimes even the moccasins which they
are actually wearing. William got a coat for his pair the other day; on
another occasion, boy-like, he got a big pair of boots which he is most
proud of, but which are of very little use to him. The height of ambition
is to own a pair of boots, though the feet look much tidier in moccasins.
His grandmother has just asked me to buy her a pair at the Cape.

Graham has been writing a letter to the Bishop telling of our contemplated
visit to the Cape. He will leave a copy of it here on the possible chance
of the Bishop arriving when we are away. If he should arrive there are
various things of which he may wish to have accurate information.

To do the rats justice let me here record it is now thought that a cat was
the culprit on the occasion of the breakfast having disappeared.

CHAPTER XV

_Thursday, November_ 22.--To-day when I was hanging the bird-cage on the
wall of the house, Jack somehow squeezed himself through the wires and
flew to the flax on the edge of the garden. I caught him, but he slipped
through my fingers and flew on to the common and then back into the
garden, again alighting on a flax-leaf. He is so tame he allowed me to go
up to him, and I caught him once more quite easily.

I have started baking bread in an iron pot after the method of the people.

_Thursday, November_ 29.--Should we go to the Cape it has been arranged
for the elder girls to carry on the school. They are rather pleased at the
idea. To get their hand in, Graham let them take it yesterday and again
to-day. They are capable of taking it for a limited time.

The men and boys have been playing cricket lately, the latter being very
keen upon it.

High winds have again somewhat damaged the plants.

_Friday, November_ 30, _St. Andrew's Day_.--It being the day of
Intercession for Missions we had service at five o'clock. Sixty-one people
were present, which was good for a week-day. Earlier in the afternoon the
sewing-class met. When possible we have it out of doors. We are reading
_Teddy's Button_, which the children quite enjoy. They enter into reading
aloud so much more than they did.

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