Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

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_Monday, December 3_.--Yesterday afternoon Sam Swain's baby was christened
and named Rachel Caroline. The baptism was earlier than it would have been
because the parents were anxious she should be baptized before we leave
for the Cape. The church was full. Graham has asked Repetto to read the
service on Sunday while we are away. Ellen will play the hymns.

This evening a vessel was sighted. As the men think it is a whaler they
are not going out to it till to-morrow.

_Wednesday, December_ 5.--The vessel was a whaler, and the men went off at
breakfast-time next morning and were away all day. For three sheep and
eight geese they only got a barrel of flour and some molasses. The captain
evidently knew how to drive a bargain; it is rather too bad.

The flower garden is beginning to look quite bright. The sweet peas will
soon be in flower, the stocks, too, are showing buds. This week we expect
to pick a dish of peas, though the plants look very poor after the blight
they had.

There has been a rearrangement of the classes in school and some of the
infants have gone up. The elder girls now help a little in the teaching.
This morning I had to speak to one of them. She had been taking the
infants in reading, and sat with cane in hand administering justice right
and left, to which her scholars paid but little heed.

_Thursday, December_ 6.--Yesterday, it being the Advent season, there was
a short service after the confirmation class. The people sing "Lo, He
comes with clouds descending" to the tune in the _Hymnal Companion_ so
heartily. Coming out from the service we found the men gazing intently
towards the west. They saw what they said was a whaler; we could just see
something. It seems to be coming in, so they will not go out to it till
to-morrow. Whalers are no good as regards taking letters, because it may
be so long before they make a port.

_Friday, December_ 7.--The whaler came in on Thursday and the men started
out to meet her, but finding that she was sending a boat ashore, returned.
In the boat was the harpooner, a brother of Sam Swain, senior. The
brothers had not met for twenty-four years. He and the boat's crew spent
part of the day here. It has been a great thing for the people to have had
these three whalers as they have been able to get provisions and material.
I must say our friends are a most liberal people. To-day just after dinner
Henry Green brought us a bag of flour from _All Hands_. Graham did not
want to take it, and being pressed, offered to pay for it, but Henry would
not hear of that, and after some argument said with decision he would not
take it back and plumped it down on the sofa. They think now there will be
a very good potato crop both in quality and quantity, so we cannot want.
The potatoes last year were small owing to the blight.

_Saturday, December_ 8,--The Henry Greens have a child nearly two years
old that can neither walk nor talk, and is very fat. They said they
thought his back was weak, so I suggested they should bathe it with
sea-water twice a day. For some time they did not try this, but last week
began it, and after two or three days to their surprise, and to mine when
I was told of it, he stood up. The mother is most thankful and only wishes
she had begun it before.

_Friday, December_ l4.--There was great excitement yesterday afternoon.
Word was brought in that there had been a shipwreck and that two boats
were making for the island. We all ran out expecting to see a shipwrecked
crew, but no boats were to be seen. We made then for Hottentot Point, and
there we could see a ship in the distance. One of out boats had already
started, but returned before it had gone far. Later the same enterprising
crew, Tom Rogers, Henry Green, and young Sam Swain, set forth again with
things for barter. We only knew at the last minute they were going. Ellen
and I ran to the top of the cliff with our letter, but the boat had
started. We heard afterwards they would have come back had they known we
had letters. It is more than a month since we dispatched our last batch.
The boat did not return till this morning. It got back to the belt of
seaweed before daylight, and making fast to it waited for the dawn. The
crew said the captain, a Scotchman, was so kind and let them have anything
they wanted. He had his wife and little boy on board; she had been ill.
The ship was becalmed, and we hoped the other islanders would go out to
her, but they didn't seem inclined to do so. Later in the afternoon we
heard to our surprise that they were going. We were so glad because of the
letters. The captain sent us a whole heap of magazines and papers. We sent
some young lettuces, and I only regretted we had not some flowers to send
to his wife. The men did not return till the early hours of the morning.
The captain sent us a bottle of lime-juice and would not take any payment
for the groceries Repetto asked for. We feel much the invariable kindness
of all the captains. The first boat's crew enjoyed themselves immensely on
board. The captain played and sang to them. To add to his kindness he sent
us a letter containing all the latest news; the first item of which was
"King Teddy going strong."

Repetto has just been in to bring some white paint and oil he got for us
from the ship. We want it for the house, which certainly has not seen
fresh paint for many a year.

_Saturday, December_ 15.--A ship was sighted to-day in the far distance.

_Sunday, December_ 16.--Rebekah is most good in bringing us bunches of
pink roses. We have also on the table a bouquet of field-daisies which we
were so pleased to find growing here. There are scarcely any wild flowers,
but there is a yellow one which much resembles a hollyhock. The people
think it very poisonous and never picked it. There is also a small plant
which grows abundantly near this house and which they call a sunflower. It
has a leaf resembling that of the woodsorrel, and a pink flower the shape
of a primrose, but with smaller petals. The boys are very fond of adorning
their caps on Sunday with a bunch of pink roses, which are not exactly
becoming to their brown complexions.

_Monday, December_ 17.--In heavy rain and a misty sea a ship passed close
by.

_Thursday, December_ 20.--To-day Rebekah ran in in great distress: "Her
brother Ben had had a fit and had not yet come to, would we go to him?"
We went off at once. When we got there he was still unconscious and was
lying on the couch. The men were doing all they could for him. There was
not much that could be done beyond loosening his collar. After a time he
went to sleep. Every one kept flocking in, even the children. I told them
he ought to be kept quiet, and gradually they went until Ellen, I, and
Bill Green were the only ones left. Presently he awoke and insisted upon
getting up, and seeing he was fairly himself we left. Afterwards he had
two more fits, one of them on the shore where he had insisted upon going;
fortunately Bill Green had followed him there. Two of the men will sit up
with him through the night. The people are very kind to one another in
sickness.

The keeping of meat is a great difficulty in the summer. We have a supply
for the week and it will not keep beyond a day or two. We asked to have it
twice a week, but that could not be arranged. We mean to try salting a
portion. Our meat larder is the passage as being the most airy place.

_Sunday, December 23_.--Ben is all right again. It is thought he overdid
himself driving sheep. He had no dog with him and did a good deal of
shouting and running. He is the man who has deformed arms. Happily he is
of a cheerful disposition and is to be heard constantly whistling tunes.
The only work he can do is to drive the oxen and sheep.

It is difficult to feel we are so near Christmas since we have so few
preparations to make for it. But it is not so with the people. They have
been preparing for it for months. We have had constant requests for "blue"
for getting up white shirts, petticoats and children's clothes.
Preparations are also now going on in prospect of a visit from a
man-of-war; houses are being whitewashed, painted, and scrubbed.
The Repettos finished theirs some time ago, and the large sitting-room is
not allowed to be used, that it may be kept quite clean for the "great
event," should it come off. The minds of the inhabitants are centred on
the arrival of a warship; it is the great event in their lives, and they
cannot yet believe one is not coming.

_Christmas Eve_.--This has been a busy day, almost as busy at it is at
home, there has been so much coming and going. Many have brought offerings
of fish and fruit-pies, and Rebekah as a birthday offering a nicely baked
cake. I had a blouse ready for her. She stayed to supper. We have been
able to give a little tea and sugar all round. I patched up an old coat
for William, and as a last thing watered the garden. The nasturtiums,
which I hope will run up the wall of the house, are just beginning to
bloom. The sitting-room looks quite gay with daisies, grasses and pink
roses.

CHAPTER XVI

_Christmas Day_.--We have had three services, and all have been well
attended. To our surprise we found the church decorated. It was done
delightfully simple; little bunches of geraniums, roses and green being
hung from the beams and the walls. Nearly all were present in the morning,
the women having got up early to prepare their dinners. Rebekah said she
was up at 4.30. Our dinner was provided for us, the Greens sending stuffed
sucking-pig and others crowberry open tarts. Alas! we had no plum-pudding.
The rain came down in torrents in the afternoon, and we began service with
hardly any one present; but the rain abating the church gradually filled.
The singing was not good; I drew my conclusions.

This evening there has been dancing at the Hagans'. Graham has been
in and is surprised how well the people dance. The men danced in their
shirt-sleeves. Husbands and wives first led off, then danced with other
partners. The refreshment was cold water.

_Thursday, December_ 27.--Yesterday directly after breakfast Repetto came
to paint the sitting-room. The painting took all day, but the room is
quite transformed. The south wall which was green from damp has been
whitewashed, and now it is of an olive-green shade and looks quite
artistic in contrast with the white paint, but I am afraid that hue will
not long remain.

We are having a ten days' holiday. It rains almost every day, and
everything is reeking with damp. The people devote themselves to
festivities at this season, playing cricket in the morning and dancing in
the afternoon and evening. On Boxing Day the first hour of the afternoon
was given up to the children, who love dancing. About an hour later the
elders began. I dressed in my best array and went to look on. They dance
exceedingly well, round and backwards and forwards. I was struck by the
polite manners of the men, who go up to the partner they wish to dance
with, bow to her and offer their arm. The partner takes it most solemnly,
waits about half a minute before she accepts, apparently quite unconscious
of his presence, during which time his arm is dropped as he stands mute
before her; then she quietly rises and the dance begins. The behaviour of
the girls is quiet and natural with a becoming self-reserve. We were home
again before six. I believe the dancers left soon after to get some food
at home, and then returned and went on till eleven o'clock. We looked in
again, and, seeing that the room was very poorly lighted, went back for
our lamp. Some of the babies were put to bed in the adjoining room,
and some were sleeping peacefully in the arms of the elders in the
dancing-room.

_Friday, December 28_.--We are having a very wet week. I have been
painting the bedroom and kitchen window-frames. One of our little birds
died suddenly yesterday evening: we think perhaps the paint was too much
for it. Happily the other one seems quite cheerful without it. As there is
still a smell of paint we take his cage up to the church and hang it in
the vestry as the only place of safety we can think of.

_New Year's Eve_.--In looking back over this past year we feel very
thankful for the way in which we have been helped and guided.

_New Year's Day, 1907.--It is the custom here on New Year's Eve for the
men to assemble soon after nightfall and visit each house. Several are
fantastically dressed and equipped with every available instrument--
violin, drum, concertina and accordion. And on this occasion even three
old Martinis were brought into requisition and fired at frequent intervals
throughout the night. Refreshment is given at each house, so we had a good
brew of tea and biscuits ready for distribution at the first sound of the
drum. Usually the men enter the house, but as it would have been
impossible to get them all into ours, they grouped themselves round the
back door. There they first sang and danced to the accompaniment of the
violin and accordion, made passes with mock swords and let off guns; then
sat on the stones and enjoyed their tea. I was awakened two or three times
in the night by the guns. It was daylight before they finished.

No less than four dinners were sent us today, three plates of stuffed
mutton and one of sucking-pig. Our thyme and parsley had been much sought
after for the stuffing.

We had service this morning at nine o'clock, at which about forty were
present. One of the three hymns was the old favourite--

"O God, our help in ages past,
Our hope for years to come."

All the afternoon Graham was on the roof of the house mending a hole which
was big enough to thrust his hand through. I watched him staggering up the
ladder with a heavy roll of turf roped on to his back. When next I saw him
he was sprawling on the ridge, his legs only visible. He nailed a piece of
tin over the hole, cemented it, and put the turf over it. The cement is
made of the ashes of the wood fire mixed with water; it is very durable,
and stands heat and wet. Repetto has been painting the church. His wife
came in to pay us a visit, a rather rare thing. She goes her own way. The
other women live a good deal in each other's houses, but she does not
believe in this, thinking there is plenty to be done at home. Her strong
character comes out in dealing with her children. She is a very strict
disciplinarian. If they do not do what she tells them, they get a good
"hammering." She was very pleased with what Graham said in church on
Sunday to the children about promptness in obeying.

_Wednesday, January 2_.--To-day we thought of going to the potato patches,
but the men were playing cricket, and sent to ask Graham to join them,
which he did. Afterwards he had his first bathe with them. Their
bathing-place is close to the waterfall. It is not possible to go out far
owing to sharks.

_Thursday, January 3_.--Graham and I started off this afternoon for the
potato patches, as the people were anxious that we should see the plants
in flower. It was not quite such an exertion as we expected. This time of
year the plants are often covered with caterpillars, which have to be
picked off. If the people would burn the old plants and the weeds each
season this pest would be greatly diminished. Unfortunately there are no
birds to prey upon the insects.

_Monday, January 7_.--The next day we went up what is called "Bugsby
Hole," a steep mountain slope. It took us a long time to climb, for we did
it bit by bit, constantly sitting down. At last we came to what one might
perhaps call a pass (it was but a gap) over a narrow-backed ridge. This
was the Goat Ridge which Graham had climbed from the other side on Good
Friday. We had rather a difficult rock to climb up, but with assistance I
managed it. Rob got frightened, and had many leaps before he got up. From
this ridge such a lovely scene opened out in the evening light, lofty
peaks all around, and below, grassy, fern-covered ravines. It made one
almost giddy to look down. The descent appeared appalling, but the ferns
were long, and we could get a good foothold in them. As we neared the
bottom we picked up a quantity of wood. Some of it rolled into a gulch,
and in going after it Graham got "blocked" and had to let himself slide,
with the result that he rather hurt his leg. We got home just before dusk,
had a supper of bread and milk and coffee, and retired to bed as soon as I
had prepared the sponge for baking.

[Illustration: BUGSBY HOLE]

We have started school again after a fortnight's holiday. It is a hot,
close day, about the hottest we have had; one comfort is the houses are
cool. It is such a pleasure to see the cattle looking so different, really
beginning to be in good condition. Their number having been so greatly
reduced, there is plenty of grass for them. We have abundance of milk now,
but butter is a rare commodity. Some was brought us to-day, and is quite a
treat.

_Wednesday, January_ 9.--This day last year we landed at Cape Town.

Yesterday evening we watched the yoking of some oxen which were driven
into the yard opposite. Several were being broken in for the first time,
and others had not been yoked for many months. One was quite wild, jumping
over the wall into the tussock-garden. The two oxen, or steers, to be
yoked together are driven into a corner, and the owner of them warily
approaches and first puts on the neck of one the wooden collar. Having
done this, he waits a minute or two, and then a man behind hands him the
heavy cross-beam, one end of which has to be made fast to the collar. This
being done, he goes through the same process with the other ox. The affair
is no easy one, for any minute the ox may bolt, perhaps with the yoke
dangling down over its forelegs. When they are at last ready, their heads
are turned towards the entrance, for which they generally make a dash to
get out on to the common. Now comes a race. The owner has hold of one of
the horns and hangs on, running at topmost speed, till the oxen are out of
breath and go more soberly. Some of the animals take the yoking very
quietly. They are left yoked for several days; it seems rather hard upon
them, but, of course, they have to be broken in.

_Friday, January_ 11.--We are going to keep fowls. I intended to buy some,
and spoke to one or two people, but they quite scorned the idea of
selling--they would give them. About half-a-dozen have already been
promised. Tom Rogers started on the fowl-house to-day. It is to be a
wooden one made out of our packing-cases and thatched with tussock.

_Wednesday, January_ 16.--Repetto has been here since Saturday putting up
a three-cornered cupboard in the sitting-room. We need it to keep daily
stores in. We tried keeping them in the loft, but to run up a ladder every
time you want tea, sugar or biscuits is rather tiresome, and the kitchen
is too damp for stores.

We have been rearranging the sitting-room. The Indian rugs have come in
most usefully; one does as a tablecloth, and the other as a cover for
boxes, making a table in the part of the sitting-room we have screened
off. They give such a cheerful look to the room. Two or three of the young
girls come in every evening of their own accord to help Ellen to wash up.
The boys often help in the garden. Ned and little Charlie were helping
this evening to shake the earth out of sods of grass. They were so comical
over it, tumbling down and bursting into such merry peals of laughter. It
reminded me of scenes in _Uncle Tom's Cabin_.

_Monday, January_ 2l.--We are having such peaceful days, hardly any wind,
and hours of sunshine.

The fowl-house is finished, and this morning I had several gifts of hens
to put into it. While we were at breakfast one small child of five, Lizzie
Rogers, brought as her birthday gift a hen in a bag. One hen laid an egg
an hour after its arrival! The eggs here are very small. I visit the house
many times a day to show it to various visitors.

The garden is looking so bright; the zinnias have done splendidly, and
some are over two feet high. Our vegetable garden now produces cabbages,
turnips, and a few peas. Carrots are coming on, and the tomato plants are
in blossom and look most flourishing. The ground is quite warm six or
seven inches down, and is more like a hot-bed.

_Wednesday, January_ 23.--The man-of-war is daily expected; the horizon is
scanned from early dawn to twilight; but after this week the people say
they will have doubts about its coming. For the most part they are without
tea and coffee, and are glad of our tea-leaves.

_Friday, January_ 25.--We opened our last flour tin today; we hope to eke
out the flour for a month by using only half-a-pound a day and mixing with
it a liberal proportion of potatoes.

Yesterday I had my first bathe. We went to a place amongst the rocks where
the sea runs in and deep enough for swimming. Graham has begun bathing
with the boys after school. The beautiful calm weather has gone and the
wind come back again.

_Wednesday, January_ 30.--Charlotte Swain came in to tell us there was a
shark on the shore and to ask if we would like to go and see it; so we
went down. It was a small one, only six feet long. The skin is very rough,
like emery paper, and is used by the people for polishing horns. The flesh
is remarkably white and looks as though it would be good to eat. The liver
when boiled down makes very clear oil for burning in their lamps.

This evening Rebekah brought us a well-baked loaf. We were touched by
this, for flour is scarce now. She said they could do on potatoes better
than we could, though we have not come to that yet. The men have been
fishing and we have more fish than we can possibly eat.

There are other occupants than fowls of the fowl-house. Four big pigs find
it a most comfortable place to retire into. It doesn't matter how often
they are driven out. Whenever a storm comes on in they go again, and then
they have the best of us.

_Saturday, February_ 2.--This morning, though it was wet, such was our
energy we went off for a bathe before breakfast, and found it most
refreshing.

The Glasses have a little son, and now the population, including
ourselves, is seventy-nine.

Late this afternoon there was a cry of "Sail, ho!" and on going out to
look we saw a ship opposite the settlement. It was just a chance whether
the men would be able to reach her. They had no time to catch any sheep,
but took what they could lay hands on. As we sat on the cliff just as they
were starting, Mr. Bob Green suddenly jumped up crying, "Sail, ho!" and on
looking, sure enough we saw a second sail coming up. We hoped the men
would try for the two, but they decided to go for the second only. The
first ship stood in for a time and lowered part of her sail, and then went
on. It is dark, but the boats are not yet back. I do hope the men have
been able to get some tea and coffee.

_Monday, February 4_.--Late on Saturday evening we heard a distant whistle
which we knew meant the boats were coming. We thought we would go down to
see them land, but as it was very dark and we had lent our lantern we had
to wait till we saw a light passing our way. Most of the people were
carrying brands which they waved to keep them alight, causing quite a fine
effect. On the cliff a fire was burning, and another on the shore.
Lanterns were held up so that the incoming boat might have all the light
possible. Well as the landing-place is known, it is difficult in the
darkness to steer clear of rocks and to keep the boat from filling with
water in the surf. The moment it touched the shore the women, boys, and
girls ran down and pulled frantically at the rope. It had to be hauled up
a steep bank of shingle. The fire was stirred up and in its light the
second boat made a run for the shore. It was a weird scene. The expedition
had been almost in vain. The men had to pull nearly all the way to the
ship, which proved to be a Russian one, and could hardly get anything.
Still, a little tea, coffee and sugar, and seventeen pounds of flour
with a little rice were better than nothing. The ship was bound for Natal,
but the captain would not take any passengers. We are pleased the letters
have gone and by so direct a route. As the boats were leaving the ship the
captain called out, "The letters are not stamped." Repetto called back,
"All you have to do is to put them in the post-box as they are." We can
never stamp letters as there are no stamps here. And if there were stamps
they would be of no use because we never know where the letters will be
posted. We sent off about sixteen letters. Repetto said he would keep his
for the man-of-war. I rather think ours will reach England first.

We are getting through more reading than we have for a long time. Some of
the people, so we are told, have used their books for lighting fires, and
others have pulled them to pieces for the sake of the thread with which
they were bound. We have found several of Miss Emily Holt's books here,
and have much enjoyed reading them.

We have many requests now from the people for vegetables and almost
daily ones for thyme and parsley. Cabbages they much like. We hope in
the future they will try to cultivate vegetables. At present they care
for none beyond cabbages, leeks, onions and pumpkins. The caterpillars do
much damage among the vegetables, and many of the young tomatoes are
riddled with holes. The few ears of wheat which have come up have tiny
green caterpillars on them which eat up all the green corn. Having no
insect-eating birds here is a great loss.

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