Three Years in Tristan da Cunha by K. M. Barrow

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We have been having a good deal of rain and close steamy weather. At
night we have the windows and door of our room, the passage window, and
sometimes the back door all open. A chair has to be put across the door to
keep the pigs out.

CHAPTER XVII

_Wednesday, February 6_.--Yesterday when we came back from bathing we
heard that the men were going off in about an hour's time to Sandy Point
to gather apples from their orchards, so we decided to take a holiday and
go too. It was rather a scramble to get ready, and before we had even sat
down to breakfast some of the men were going to the boats. We were in the
midst of baking, and I had to run up to Miss Cotton to ask her if she
would kindly finish it. It had been decreed Rob was not to come, but
seeing us depart was too much for him and he swam after the boat and was
hauled in. The men had to row the whole way, a distance of about ten
miles. The scenery was fine, the high mountain sides descending
precipitously to the shore. On the way Tom Rogers and Sam Swain were put
ashore, as they wanted to drive a cow from where the former had left it
some months ago. It was rather an undertaking, for the animal was as wild
as the road was rough. Sometimes she had to be driven over big boulders,
and sometimes through the sea. When she got on to a sandy stretch of beach
she went so fast the men could hardly keep up with her. They had to throw
a lasso over her horns the last part of the way to prevent her swimming
out to sea. But in spite of their difficulties they arrived almost as soon
as we did. It was not very easy landing, and we had to be carried from the
boats to the shore. The orchards were on the mountain side in a sheltered
place. It was quite a climb to get to them and once or twice we had to
have help, which Tom Rogers, who when he saw us mounting had run after us,
was only too pleased to give. We passed a very fine vine; the grapes were
not yet ripe, probably the rats will have most of them. The grass was long
and rather wet. Soon the sun came out and it became very hot. For a time
we helped Tom to gather his apples, but it was tiring work, so Ellen and I
found a sheltered nook and rested. Afterwards Graham and I went and sat
near the edge of the cliff. Here a pair of mollyhawks came and perched
within a few feet of us, and our presence did not seem at all to disturb
them. They are exceedingly handsome birds, are for the most part white,
and have a black bill with a bright yellow stripe down the centre of it.
They have most graceful movements; and this pair bowed and clicked their
beaks together and made love to each other in the most charming way.
Before long it was time to descend. Tom again showed us the way, and then
went back for his bags of apples, which he let down the cliff by a rope.
The other men too were getting theirs down, some carrying them on their
backs. There was such a collection of sacks by the time they were all
down. The apples are not a large kind, and are gathered before they are
ripe. But it is a great boon to the people to have them, and the children
munch them all day long, eating little else. Tea was brewed on the beach,
but as only a small saucepan had been brought there was not a very
plentiful supply. Coming back there was only a little wind, and we
travelled but slowly. We were very glad to land, for we were feeling
rather sinking for want of food. To-day being the birthday of Mrs.
Hagan's one-year-old son she sent us for supper a cooked fowl which was
most acceptable. Our three little helpers, Mary and Susan Repetto and
Sophy Rogers, came up with us from the shore and offered to carry our
wraps, and when we got in set to and washed up the breakfast things. They
love to help, and come in two and three times a day now.

_Saturday, February_ 9.--It is difficult to keep count of dates here, the
weeks pass so quickly. It is a wet afternoon. I have been chopping up
suet, Graham repairing boots.

The day before yesterday the men with one or two women and some children
went by boat to the rookery to fetch home three heifers. With some
difficulty they managed to catch them, tied their legs together, and
brought them home in the boats. They also brought back more apples and a
good deal of driftwood.

Yesterday some of the men went out in a boat to shoot albatrosses, and
shot seven. These birds are so large that it is as much as a woman can do
to bring up one from the shore slung on her back. Once they nested on the
island, but now nests are not to be found nearer than Inaccessible.

I have been making fresh efforts to teach Edith Swain her letters. She has
been months at the first four and does not know them yet, but has picked
up one or two others. I have tried a new way of teaching with better
result. I have taught her, for example, "s" quite easily by telling her it
is like the noise the goose makes; it is called the goose letter by the
children. In this way we joke over the letters, and it seems to implant
them in her mind. She has now learnt them nearly all.

_Monday, February_ 11.--During Lent we are to have daily service at nine
o'clock, and on Fridays one also at five o'clock with instruction on the
Holy Communion.

_Friday, February 15_.--The daily services so far are being very well
attended, a few men being generally present. We always have well-known
hymns, and the service lasts just under the half-hour.

I find the fowls a great interest. But they often lay away in the tussock
where it is almost a hopeless task to find the eggs. If I see a hen
looking about for a nest whenever I can I catch it and shut it up, and
usually with a successful result.

The other day Ben the cripple had been missing for several hours. It was
feared he had gone off up the mountain by himself and been taken with a
fit. Although it was pouring with rain the men went off in search of him
to Red Hole which lies westward, but not finding him there retraced their
steps and went in the opposite direction as far as Pig's Bite, but seeing
no traces of his footsteps on the sand they turned back, when they were
encountered by Ben himself, who had run after them to let them know he was
all right. It seems he had gone to the potato hut and had fallen asleep
there, and that his sister not knowing he was there had fastened him in.
The first intimation of his whereabouts was conveyed by cries of "Becky,
Becky, let me out."

Our things still remain packed, but we hardly think now we shall get off
to the Cape. We have enough tea to last us this year, and enough coffee,
sugar, biscuits, rice and jam for some time yet, as well as oil and soap.
We got a good deal of rice from one of the ships, but bread we had
virtually to do without.

The Repettos' youngest child is such a little pet, and so well trained. I
brought him in yesterday when we were having afternoon tea. He solemnly
clambered on to the sofa and sat there till I offered him a spoonful of
tea and a biscuit, which he descended to receive, and then went back to
his place. He came out into the garden afterwards and sat by my side
without moving while I made a weak attempt at sketching the house. He is
fair, has auburn curls, and is the darling of his mother's heart.

_Monday, February_ l8.--This morning we had such a delightful bathe. The
sea was rough and broke into our little cove, which was quite deep at one
end. There was such a lovely sunrise, the sky and sea lit up by it. We
often go down to bathe while it is still dusk. Rob was so amusing; he
would not come near the water, but sat on the rock as if on guard; he is
generally here, there, and everywhere.

_Sunday, February_ 24.--John Glass's son and heir was baptized today and
was named William Gordon. The first name was after Corporal Glass, his
greatgrandfather. We sang the beautiful baptismal hymn---

"O Father, Thou who hast created all
In wisest love, we pray,
Look on this babe, who at Thy gracious call
Is entering on life's way;
Bend o'er him in Thy tenderness,
Thine image on his soul impress;
O Father, hear!"

I did not know either the hymn or the tune by Sullivan until I came here.

_Monday, February_ 25.--I have been picking tomatoes. We have to pick them
green, as they are beginning to rot, due, I think, to this wet climate. I
have hung some in strings on the front of the house, the rest lie on the
sitting-room window-sills.

A week or two ago a small portion of the hayfield was cut. There being no
such thing as a scythe here, it was cut with a short hook made out of ship
iron, and called a "tussock-hook." The hay, which is deliciously sweet,
was gathered in successfully. But I do not think Henry intends to cut any
more of the field. They have got into such set ways here that it goes
against the grain to try anything new. This hay was put into a hut and
never used for feeding the cattle but for bedding for the pigs. While I
have been writing I have heard such happy peals of laughter from the
children who have been helping Ellen.

_Tuesday, February 26_.--As we were out for a walk this afternoon we saw
cart after cart coming home from the potato patches. They were loaded with
sacks of potatoes, and generally had a woman and one or two children
seated on the top of the sacks. The men do the digging and the women and
children the picking up. The potatoes are turning out well on the whole.
It is no joy to ride in the wagons along the rough track, which can hardly
be described as a road. The carts have solid wooden wheels and no springs.

_Saturday, March 2_.--A cry of "Sail, ho!" What a joy! Every one is
running hither and thither.

CHAPTER XVIII

_Monday, March_ 4.--It is difficult to sit down and collect one's thoughts
to write. Saturday was a most eventful day. Early in the morning soon
after we had returned from bathing a ship was seen on the horizon. It was
coming from the east. This is the first time a ship has come from that
direction since we have been here. The excitement was great. She was seen
to be tacking for the island. The excitement increased. We felt something
was in store for us, possibly a mail. In due time Graham and the islanders
started forth; there was a breeze and the sea was decidedly rough. As we
were returning from seeing them off the women said they could see a flag
on the mast-head, which meant that somebody special was on board. We at
once decided it must be the Bishop, and hurried home and buckled to, for
there was plenty to be done. We saw the boats reach the ship, and to our
surprise in about fifteen minutes they were off again. We then felt sure
the ship was going to stay and was landing some one. When the boats were
getting fairly near the shore we went down. A tremendously heavy shower
came on which drove us to seek shelter in a diminutive cave. The sea had
become rougher. We watched the boats working their way in from the east;
they were being tossed and pitched about like corks and the spray was
dashing all over them. Our interest grew as they neared the shore. How we
scanned them to see who was on board. As they drew near us we could
see there was no bishop, but the people soon recognized two Tristanites,
Willie Swain, son of Susan Swain, and Charlie Green, son of Lucy Green,
who had been away for two or three years. They both will be welcome, as
they are needed at home to work for their widowed mothers. Then a stranger
was descried.

The women ran down to help the moment the boat grounded, even Ellen and I
helped for a few minutes. Every one was wet through; Graham from head to
foot, but happily he was not _hors de combat_. He introduced the stranger
as Mr. Keytel, one of the owners of the vessel, who said he had come
partly on a holiday trip and partly to gauge the feasibility of starting a
trade. The schooner will probably be here about a week. Mr. Keytel had
lunch with us. It has been arranged for him to have his meals with us and
to sleep at the Repettos' who have a larger house. He is an interesting
man with many hobbies, being interested in photography, birds, flowers,
fishing, horns, and curios. Directly after lunch the letter mail was
brought in by Repetto who was followed by others carrying bags containing
a great number of parcels chiefly for the islanders.

What a delight it was to have our letters. I had such a number it was
difficult to know which one to open first. We must spend the next few days
almost entirely in writing. Graham has a great many letters to answer, and
has received communications from the Imperial and Cape Governments which
may require lengthy answers. The former Government desires him to discuss
with the inhabitants the question of their leaving the island. He has also
had a very kind letter from an official of the Agricultural Department at
Cape Town, who has had the management of this expedition, which is
described as "The Relief Expedition." The Imperial Government has sent the
islanders goods to the value of L100. These include one hundred bags of
flour, groceries, and a large quantity of crockery. The stores which we
ordered from the Army and Navy Stores, London, and from Messrs. Cartwright
of Cape Town have arrived safely; and thus we are provided for for two
years. We had kept a little flour for an emergency, so directly our guest
came we were able to bake a loaf.

_7:35_.--We have been writing almost the whole day, and I feel as if I had
very little mind left.

On Sunday the schooner came fairly close in, but the boats did not go out
to her, for which we were glad. She has been becalmed today some distance
away, but the men decided to go off to her for the bags of flour. They
have now been out nearly twelve hours; it is dark, and there is no sign of
them. Ellen and I have been round to all the houses leaving tea and sugar
so that the women may have a brew to take down to them when they arrive.

Mr. Keytel has been making inquiries about guano; but it seems from what
the men say it will be almost impossible to get the pure article, so much
rain passes through it washing out all the goodness; also, it is in the
tussock and gets mixed with sand. He does not want to trade in cattle or
sheep.

_Tuesday, March 5_.--We went down last night to meet the boats. Each
brought twenty sacks of flour. So much flour has not been seen on the
island for many a day, if ever. It was not a really dark night, so that
lanterns were all that were necessary. Every one was helping either to
haul up the boats or carry the bags to a high and dry spot, which was not
easy work over slippery seaweed. The captain has sent ashore for us a
funny little brown puppy.

About half-past ten one of the men put his head in at the front door
saying something about the mail at Glass's. Graham went to see what it
was, and after some time brought back to our great joy another enormous
budget of letters of later date than those first received. We sat up till
nearly one o'clock reading them, but were up by six next morning.

This morning after service a meeting was held, at which every adult except
two was present, to go into the question of leaving Tristan. Graham told
the people, according to instructions received, that if they stayed the
Government could not promise to do anything further for them, and that
therefore they must not look for help in the future. He put the advantage
of going and the disadvantage of remaining as strongly as he could. But
notwithstanding they were unanimous in their decision to stay. One or two
said they would rather starve here than at the Cape; and old Mary Glass
said she would go if the Government would give her a pound a week. Mr.
Keytel was there and takes much interest in every question. He is
considering whether anything can be done as to trading in sheep, and I
hope will try to get his firm to take it up. It would be better for the
islanders to sell at a very low price than to have no regular
communication. A trade would make them independent of outside help except
perhaps a little at first to make the schooner pay. But probably the
Government will think it has done enough for some time to come.

This is not the first time that an offer of removal has been made. In 1903
Mr. Chamberlain, who was then Colonial Secretary, in a dispatch to the
Governor of the Cape suggested the removal of the inhabitants to the Cape,
and that the island be annexed to the Cape Colony. In accordance with this
suggestion in January, 1904, H.M.S. _Odin_ arrived at Tristan having on
board Mr. Hammond Tooke who was commissioned by the Cape Government to
make the following offer to the islanders:--"Should all the inhabitants
wish to leave the Island, the Cape and Home Governments would provide them
with a free passage, purchase their live stock from them and settle them
within 100 miles of Cape Town, allowing them about two acres of land on
rent, and would advance them money on loan to start their homes. They were
also told that they would be near the sea coast, where they would be able
to start fisheries to supply the people of Cape Town ... and that in
future they could not rely on a yearly visit from a man-of-war" (Blue
Book). Only three families accepting this offer it was withdrawn.

_Wednesday, March_ 6.--Yesterday and to-day rain and a rough sea stopped
the unloading. Mr. Keytel has brought a gramophone and has given a concert
at the Repettos' house. I have never enjoyed a gramophone so much as I
have this one, more particularly the orchestral part.

We have been writing on and off all day. There were more meetings this
afternoon. Several matters needed discussion. One concerned the mail which
is sometimes opened in rather a promiscuous fashion--even in the boats. It
has been agreed that in future it shall be brought straight to this house.
Repetto is to continue to act as postmaster, and the opening to be in the
presence of all who wish to attend. It has also been agreed that any
letters or packages addressed to the Governor, or other supposed
authority, Graham shall open on behalf of the islanders. These have come
to be thought nobody's property, and to be appropriated by any one into
whose hands they might fall.

Mr. Keytel also had a meeting. He has become very interested in the island
and is going to do what he can to start a sheep trade, so he wanted to
talk it all out with the people. He is keen upon improvements. Amongst
other points he suggests that only a few cattle should be kept and that
food should be grown to supply them in winter; and that a piece of land be
railed off for the pigs which do so much havoc to the turf. He has won the
men's confidence and I believe they will do what he wishes. He hopes if
all goes well to send a schooner next January to take off the sheep, which
will probably have to be sold at a low price. Had we gone to Cape Town we
could not have obtained a better result than this unexpected visit of Mr.
Keytel promises to yield.

_Thursday, March 7_.--Graham sat up writing till two in the morning. He
has now nearly finished his report to the Colonial office, but has still
to write to the Cape Government. I too have been writing most of the day.
The ship has only been sighted in the far distance, so no business has
been done. This is the third successive day of no communication with her.
The wind of yesterday blew her far out to sea. We are so longing to open
our packages, but it seems better to get the letters that have come to
hand answered first.

_Saturday, March 9_.--Yesterday the men went off to the _Greyhound_--I do
not think I have mentioned the name of the schooner before--and got back
some time before midnight. They have gone off again to-day, after which
they have only to go once more.

_Later_, 10 p.m.--We have just opened a package which we thought contained
papers, and to our delight have found letters and cards innumerable.

_Monday, March ll_.--The men are bringing in the last load from the
schooner. Latterly the weather has been very favourable.

Mr. Keytel has had a splendid opportunity of getting to know the people,
their needs, and the possibilities of the island. He thinks there may be
an opening not only for sheep-breeding and for the drying of fish, of
which there are great quantities, but also for sealing; and talks of
coming next December and spending a whole year here with the object of
starting the industries. It looks, therefore, as if a future were opening
at last for Tristan.

Mr. and Mrs. Beverley of Cape Town have been so kind. They packed a large
case full of things, such as children's clothes, remnants of material,
puzzles and toys, including a grand doll's house. A case has also been
received from the congregation of Holy Trinity Church, many members of
which have very kindly written.

_Tuesday, March_ 12.--Still busy writing. In addition to my own I have
many letters to write for the islanders to friends in England and
elsewhere who have sent them parcels.

Last evening I went to the cemetery to try to make a sketch of Mr. Macan's
grave for his grandmother. This is the young man who came in the _Pandora_
in 1904 and was drowned, as it is thought, in trying to swim round a bluff
to the west of Burntwood. His body was found the next morning on the
beach, but whether he had fallen off the cliff or had been drowned in
swimming round is uncertain.

[Illustration: THE CRATER LAKE]

[Illustration: ON THE SUMMIT OF THE PEAK]

Graham has at last had his heart's desire, namely, to ascend the Peak. He
and Mr. Keytel with five of the islanders started off early this morning.
At seven we could see them on the sky-line of the mountain above the
settlement. They got back about six this evening. I am thankful I did not
go, for they say it was a tremendous climb, and the last part, over a
lava-covered surface, the hardest bit of all. I give a description of the
expedition in his own words--

"Mr. Keytel and I had as guides or companions old Sam Swain, Andrew Swain,
Tom Rogers, Repetto and young Sam Swain. We started at 5.30 a.m. and in an
hour and a half were 2,000 feet up, on the top of what the islanders call
the base of the mountain. With the exception of a mile and a half at the
end the climbing was now done, and the rest of the way little more than
walking up-hill. The first mile from the edge of the base was fairly flat,
but over spongy ground thickly studded with stout ferns which came up
above our knees. Then we got on to a grassy slope, and from that descended
into a gulch, up which we went for about a mile. Getting out of this we
next trudged over grassy slopes on which were growing fine specimens of
the crowberry. This kind of ground lasted to within a mile and a half of
the summit, but the grass became scarcer, and was in patches only. Then
all vegetation ceased, I did not notice even moss, and the ascent became
much steeper, about as steep as from St. Ann's Well to the top of the
Worcestershire Beacon. But the going was much harder because the ground
offered no sure foothold, consisting as it did of loose burnt stones and
earth which let you down one step for every two taken. Our Cape visitor in
the gulch had felt that he could not lift his foot for another step; he
kept on, however, right to the top, and I began to feel the same. Although
in no sense done up, I found this last bit harder work than all the rest
of the way put together. The men felt it too. The end, though, came at
last, and we proudly stood on the rim of the crater. It was soon evident
to us, however, that we were not on the highest point. That was on the
part of the rim opposite to us, and in between was the bottom of the
crater. Lying in this bottom was a small lake, perhaps eighty yards by
sixty. We made our way down to it and half-way round it, and then sat down
to lunch. We found the crater water quite drinkable. After lunch I had a
swim in the lake, whereupon Mr. Keytel promptly brought his camera into
action. He took many other photographs. Then we set our eyes upon that
highest bit of rim and doggedly making for it were soon shouting and
waving our caps on the top. It was now twenty minutes past one. At a
quarter to three we began to return, and were home by twenty-five
minutes past six. The day for the climb and the view was a perfect one."

To-morrow the schooner leaves and with it goes our touch with the outside
world. With what it has left behind we shall have enough to occupy us for
many a day. We have become quite fond of the little brown puppy, which we
have named Jock. It is very teachable, and is immensely interested in the
cattle that pass, barking with great energy at them.

_Wednesday, March_ 13.--Mr. Keytel intended leaving to-day but the
_Greyhound_ has not made its appearance; it is thought it is becalmed. All
the better for our letters. This morning Mr. Keytel photographed a group
of all the islanders, then the women only, and afterwards the men. The
photographs were taken on the common just outside our house.

_Thursday, March_ 14.--Such a large ship is passing and the men, I think,
would go out to it were they not waiting to go out to the schooner, which
is now in front of the settlement.

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