Manual of Gardening (Second Edition) by L. H. Bailey

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_Asparagus beetle._--Clean cultural methods are usually sufficient to
prevent the asparagus beetle's seriously injuring well-established beds.
Young plants require more or less protection. A good grade of arsenate
of lead, 1 lb. to 25 gal. of water, will quickly destroy the grubs on
the foliage of either young or old plants. Apply it with an ordinary
sprinkling can, or better, use one of the numerous spraying devices now
on the market. The necessity for treatment must be determined by the
abundance of the pests. They should not be permitted to become abundant
in midsummer or the over-wintering beetles may injure the shoots in
the spring.

_Blister-mite on apple and pear._--The presence of this minute mite is
indicated by small irregular brownish blisters on the leaves. Spray in
late fall or early spring with the lime-sulfur wash, with kerosene
emulsion, diluted with 5 parts of water, or miscible oil, 1 gal. in 10
gal. of water.

_Borers._--The only certain remedy for borers is to dig them out, or to
punch them out with a wire. Keep the space about the base of the tree
clean, and watch closely for any sign of borers. The flat-headed borer
of the apple works under the bark on the trunk and larger branches,
particularly where much exposed to sun. The dead and sunken appearance
of the bark indicates its presence. The round-headed borer works in the
wood of apples, quinces, and other trees; it should be hunted for every
spring and fall. On hard land, it is well to dig the earth away from the
base of the tree and fill the space with coal ashes; this will make the
work of examination much easier.

The peach and apricot borer is the larva of a clear-wing moth. The larva
burrows just under the bark near or beneath the surface of the ground;
its presence is indicated by a gummy mass at the base of the tree. Dig
out the borers in June and mound up the trees. At the same time, apply
gas-tar or coal-tar to the trunk from the roots to a foot or more above
the surface of the ground.

The bronze birch borer is destroying many fine white birch trees in some
parts of the country. Its presence is known by the dying of the top of
the tree. There yet is no known way of preventing this borer from
attacking white birches, and the only practicable and effective method
so far found for checking its ravages is promptly to cut and burn the
infested trees in autumn, in winter, or before May 1. There is no
probability of saving a tree when the top branches are dead, although
cutting out the dead parts may stay the trouble temporarily. Cut and
burn such trees at once and thus prevent the spread of the insect.

_Bud-moth on apple._--The small brown caterpillars with black heads
devour the tender leaves and flowers of the opening apple buds in early
spring. Make two applications of either 1 lb. Paris green or 4 lb.
arsenate of lead in 100 gal. of water; the first when the leaf-tips
appear and the second just before the blossoms open. If necessary, spray
again after the blossoms fall.

_Cabbage and cauliflower insects._--The green caterpillars that eat
cabbage leaves and heads hatch from eggs laid by the common white
butterfly (Fig. 295). There are several broods every season. If plants
are not heading, spray with kerosene emulsion or with Paris green to
which the sticker has been added. If heading, apply hellebore.

The cabbage aphides, small mealy plant-lice, are especially troublesome
during cool, dry seasons when their natural enemies are less active.
Before the plants begin to head, spray with kerosene emulsion diluted
with 6 parts of water, or whale-oil soap, 1 lb. in 6 gal. of water.

The white maggots that feed on the roots hatch from eggs laid near the
plant at the surface of the ground by a small fly somewhat resembling
the common house fly. Hollow out the earth slightly around every plant
and freely apply carbolic acid emulsion diluted with 30 parts of water.
Begin the treatment early, a day or two after the plants are up or the
next day after they are set out. Repeat the application every 7 to 10
days until the latter part of May. It has also been found to be
practicable to protect the plants by the use of tightly fitting cards
cut from tarred paper. (See page 187.)

_Canker-worms._--These caterpillars are small measuring-worms or loopers
that defoliate apple trees in May and June (Fig. 217). The female moths
are wingless, and in late fall or early spring crawl up the trunks of
the trees to lay their eggs on the branches. Spray thoroughly once or
twice, before the blossoms open, with 1 lb. Paris green or 4 lb.
arsenate of lead in 100 gal. of water. Repeat the application after the
blossoms fall. Prevent the ascent of the wingless females by means of
sticky bands or wire-screen traps.

_Case-bearers on apple._--The small caterpillars live in pistol-shaped
or cigar-shaped cases, about 1/4 in. long. They appear in spring on the
opening buds at the same time as the bud-moth and may be controlled by
the same means.

_Codlin-moth._--The codlin-moth lays the eggs that produce the pinkish
caterpillar which causes a large proportion of wormy apples and pears.
The eggs are laid by a small moth on the leaves and on the skin of the
fruit. Most of the caterpillars enter the apple at the blossom end. When
the petals fall, the calyx is open and this is the time to spray. The
calyx soon closes and keeps the poison inside ready for the young
caterpillar's first meal. After the calyx has closed, it is too late to
spray effectively. The caterpillars become full grown in July and
August, leave the fruit, crawl down on the trunk, and there most of them
spin cocoons under the loose bark. In most parts of the country there
are two broods annually. Immediately after the blossoms fall, spray with
1 lb. Paris green or 4 lb. arsenate of lead in 100 gal. of water. Repeat
the application 7 to 10 days later. Use burlap bands on trunks, killing
all caterpillars under them every ten days from July 1 to August 1, and
once later before winter.

_Cucurbit (cucumber, melon, and squash) insects._--Yellow,
black-striped beetles appear in numbers and attack the plants as soon
as they are up. Plant early squashes as a trap-crop around the field.
Protect the vines with screens (Fig. 229) until they begin to run, or
keep them covered with bordeaux mixture, thus making them distasteful to
the beetles.

Squash vines are frequently killed by a white caterpillar that burrows
in the stem near the base of the plant. Plant a few early squashes
between the rows of the late varieties as a trap-crop. As soon as the
early crop is harvested, remove and burn the vines. When the vines are
long enough, cover them at the joints with earth in order to develop
secondary root systems for the plant in case the main stem is injured.

Dark green plant-lice feed on the under sides of squash leaves, causing
them to curl and wither. Spray with kerosene emulsion diluted with 6
parts of water. It is necessary thoroughly to cover the under side of
the leaves; the sprayer, therefore, must be fitted with an upturned
nozzle. Burn the vines as soon as the crop is harvested and keep down
all weeds.

The stink-bug is very troublesome to squashes. The rusty-black adult
emerges from hibernation in spring and lays its eggs on the under side
of the leaves. The nymphs suck the sap from the leaves and stalks,
causing serious injury. Trap the adults under boards in the spring.
Examine the leaves for the smooth shining brownish eggs and destroy
them. The young nymphs may be killed with kerosene emulsion.

_Curculio._--The adult curculio of the plum and peach is a small
snout-beetle that inserts its eggs under the skin of the fruit and then
makes a characteristic crescent-shaped cut beneath it. The grub feeds
within the fruit and causes it to drop. When full grown, it enters the
ground, changes in late summer to the beetle, which finally goes into
hibernation in sheltered places. Spray plums just after blossoms fall
with arsenate of lead, 6 to 8 lb. in 100 gal. of water, and repeat the
application in about a week. After the fruit has set, jar the trees
daily over a sheet or curculio-catcher and destroy the beetles; this is
practically the only procedure for peaches, for they cannot be sprayed.

The quince curculio is somewhat larger than that infesting the plum and
differs in its life-history. The grubs leave the fruits in the fall and
enter the ground, where they hibernate and transform to adults the next
May, June, or July, depending on the season. When the adults appear, jar
them from the tree on sheets or curculio-catchers and destroy them. To
determine when they appear, jar a few trees daily, beginning the latter
part of May in New York.

_Currant-worm._--In the spring the small green, black-spotted larvae
feed on the foliage of currants and gooseberries, beginning their work
on the lower leaves. A second brood occurs in early summer. When worms
first appear, spray with 1 lb. Paris green or 4 lb. arsenate of lead in
100 gal. of water. Ordinarily the poison should be combined with
bordeaux (for leaf-spot).

_Cut-worms._--Probably the remedy for cut-worms most often practiced in
gardens, and which cannot fail to be effective when faithfully carried
out, is hand-picking with lanterns at night or digging them out from
around the base of the infested plants during the day. Bushels of
cut-worms have been gathered in this way, and with profit. When from
some cause success does not attend the use of the poisoned baits, to be
discussed next, hand-picking is the only other method yet recommended
that can be relied upon to check cut-worm depredations.

The best methods yet devised for killing cut-worms in any situation are
the poisoned baits, using Paris green or arsenate of lead for the
purpose. Poisoned bunches of clover or weeds have been thoroughly
tested, even by the wagon-load, over large areas, and nearly all have
reported them very effective; lamb's quarters (pigweed), pepper-grass,
and mullein are among the weeds especially attractive to cutworms. On
small areas the making of the baits is done by hand, but they have been
prepared on a large scale by spraying the plants in the field, cutting
them with a scythe or machine, and pitching them from wagons in small
bunches wherever desired. Distributed a few feet apart, between rows of
garden plants at nightfall, they have attracted and killed enough
cut-worms often to save a large proportion of the crop; if the bunches
can be covered with a shingle, they will keep fresher much longer. The
fresher the baits, and the more thoroughly the baiting is done, the more
cut-worms one can destroy. However, it may sometimes happen that a
sufficient quantity of such green succulent plants cannot be obtained
early enough in the season in some localities. In this case, and we are
not sure but in all cases, the poisoned bran mash can be used to the
best advantage. It is easily made and applied at any time, is not
expensive, and thus far the results show that it is a very attractive
and effective bait. A tablespoonful can be quickly dropped around the
base of each cabbage or tomato plant; small amounts may be easily
scattered along the rows of onions and turnips, or a little dropped on a
hill of corn or cucumbers.

The best time to apply these poisoned baits is two or three days before
any plants have come up or been set out in the garden. If the ground has
been properly prepared, the worms will have had but little to eat for
several days and they will thus seize the first opportunity to appease
their hunger upon the baits, and wholesale destruction will result. The
baits should always be applied at this time wherever cut-worms are
expected. But it is not too late usually to save most of a crop after
the pests have made their presence known by cutting off some of the
plants. Act promptly and use the baits freely.

For mechanical means of protecting from cut-worms, see pp. 186-7.

_Elm-leaf beetle._--Generally speaking one thorough and timely spraying
is ample to control the elm-leaf beetle (Fig. 235). Use arsenate of
lead, 1 lb. to 25 gal., and make the application to the under side of
the leaves the latter part of May or very early in June in New York.
Occasionally, when the beetle is very abundant, due in all probability
to no spraying in earlier years, it may be advisable to make a second
application, and the same may be true when conditions necessitate the
application earlier than when it will be most efficacious. This latter
condition is likely to obtain wherever a large number of trees must be
treated with inadequate outfit.

[Illustration: Fig. 235. Elm-leaf beetle, adult, somewhat enlarged
(after Howard).]

_Oyster-shell scale._--This is an elongate scale or bark-louse, 1/8 in.
in length, resembling an oyster shell in shape and often incrusting the
bark of apple twigs. It hibernates as minute white eggs under the old
scales. The eggs hatch during the latter part of May or in June, the
date depending on the season. After they hatch, the young may be seen as
tiny whitish lice crawling about on the bark. When these young appear,
spray with kerosene emulsion, diluted with 6 parts of water, or
whale-oil or any good soap, 1 lb. in 4 or 5 gal. of water.

_Pear insects._--The psylla is one of the most serious insects
affecting the pear tree. It is a minute, yellowish, flat-bodied, sucking
insect often found in the axils of the leaves and fruit early in the
season. They develop into minute cicada-like jumping-lice. The young
psyllas secrete a large quantity of honey-dew in which a peculiar black
fungus grows, giving the bark a characteristic sooty appearance. There
may be four broods annually and the trees are often seriously injured.
After the blossoms fall, spray with kerosene emulsion, diluted with 6
parts of water, or whale-oil soap, 1 lb. in 4 or 5 gal. of water. Repeat
the application at intervals of 3 to 7 days until the insects are
under control.

The pear slug is a small, slimy, dark green larva which skeletonizes the
leaves in June, and a second brood appears in August. Spray thoroughly
with 1 lb. Paris green, or 4 lb. arsenate of lead, in 100 gal. of water.

_Potato insects._--The Colorado potato beetle, or potato-bug, emerges
from hibernation in the spring and lays masses of orange eggs on the
under side of the leaves. The larvae are known as "slugs" and
"soft-shells" and cause most of the injury to the vines. Spray with
Paris green, 2 lb. in 100 gal. of water, or arsenite of soda combined
with bordeaux mixture. It may sometimes be necessary to use a greater
strength of the poison, particularly on the older "slugs."

The small black flea-beetles riddle the leaves with holes and cause the
foliage to die. Bordeaux mixture as applied for potato blight protects
the plants by making them repellent to the beetles.

_Raspberry, blackberry, and dewberry insects._--The greenish, spiny
larvae of the saw-fly feed on the tender leaves in spring. Spray with
Paris green or arsenate of lead, or apply hellebore.

The cane-borer is a grub that burrows down through the canes, causing
them to die. In laying her eggs, the adult beetle girdles the tip of the
cane with a ring of punctures, causing it to wither and droop. In
midsummer, cut off and destroy the drooping tips.

_Red spider._--Minute reddish mites on the under sides of leaves in
greenhouses and sometimes out of doors in dry weather. Syringe off the
plants with clear water two or three times a week, taking care not to
drench the beds.

_Rose insects._--The green plant-lice usually work on the buds, and the
yellow leaf-hoppers feed on the leaves. Spray, whenever necessary, with
kerosene emulsion, diluted with 6 parts of water, or whale-oil or any
good soap, 1 lb. in 5 or 6 gal. of water.

The rose-chafer is often a most pernicious pest on roses, grapes, and
other plants. The ungainly, long-legged, grayish beetles occur in sandy
regions and often swarm into vineyards and destroy the blossoms and
foliage. Spray thoroughly with arsenate of lead, 10 lb. in 100 gal. of
water. Repeat the application if necessary. (See under Rose in
Chap. VIII.)

_San Jose scale._--This pernicious scale is nearly circular in outline
and about the size of a small pin head, with a raised center. When
abundant, it forms a crust on the branches and causes small red spots on
the fruit. It multiplies with marvelous rapidity, there being three or
four broods annually in New York, and each mother scale may give birth
to several hundred young. The young are born alive, and breeding
continues until late autumn when all stages are killed by the cold
weather except the tiny half-grown black scales, many of which hibernate
safely. Spray thoroughly in the fall after the leaves drop, or early in
the spring before growth begins, with lime-sulfur wash, or miscible oil
1 gal. in 10 gal. of water. When badly infested, make two applications,
one in the fall and another in the spring. In case of large old trees,
25 per cent crude oil emulsion should be applied just as the buds
are swelling.

In nurseries, after the trees are dug, fumigate with hydrocyanic acid
gas, using 1 oz. of potassium cyanide for every 100 cu. ft. of space.
Continue the fumigation from one-half to three-quarters of an hour. Do
not fumigate the trees when they are wet, since the presence of moisture
renders them liable to injury.

_Tent-caterpillar._--The insect hibernates in the egg stage. The eggs
are glued in ring-like brownish masses around the smaller twigs, where
they may be easily found and destroyed. The caterpillars appear in early
spring, devour the tender leaves, and build unsightly nests on the
smaller branches. This pest is usually controlled by the treatment
recommended for the codlin-moth. Destroy the nests by burning or by
wiping out when small. Often a bad pest on apple trees.

_Violet gall-fly._--Violets grown under glass are often greatly injured
by a very small maggot, which causes the edges of the leaves to curl,
turn yellowish, and die. The adult is a very minute fly resembling a
mosquito. Pick off and destroy infested leaves as soon as discovered.
Fumigation is not advised for this insect or for red-spider.

_White-fly._--The minute white-flies are common on greenhouse plants and
often in summer on plants about gardens near greenhouses. The nymphs are
small greenish, scale-like insects found on the under side of the
leaves; the adults are minute, white, mealy-winged flies. Spray with
kerosene emulsion or whale-oil soap; or if infesting cucumbers or
tomatoes, fumigate over night with hydrocyanic acid gas, using 1 oz. of
potassium cyanide to each 1000 cu. ft. of space. (See page 188.)

_White grubs._--The large curved white grubs that are so troublesome in
lawns and strawberry fields are the larvae of the common June beetles.
They live in the ground, feeding on the roots of grasses and weeds. Dig
out grubs from beneath infested plants. Thorough early fall cultivation
of land intended for strawberries will destroy many of the pupae. In
lawns, remove the sod, destroy the grubs, and make new sward, when the
infestation is bad.

_Treatment for some of the common plant diseases._

The following advice (mostly adapted from Whetzel and Stewart) covers
the most frequent types of fungous disease appearing to the home
gardener. Many other kinds, however, will almost certainly attract his
attention the first season if he looks closely. The standard remedy is
bordeaux mixture; but because this material discolors the foliage the
carbonate of copper is sometimes used instead. The treatments here
recommended are for New York; but it should not be difficult to apply
the dates elsewhere. The gardener must supplement all advice of this
character with his own judgment and experience, and take his own risks.

_Apple scab._--Usually most evident on the fruit, forming blotches and
scabs. Spray with bordeaux, 5-5-50 or 3-3-50; first, just before the
blossoms open; second, just as the blossoms fall; third, 10 to 14 days
after the blossoms fall. The second spraying seems to be the most
important. Always apply _before_ rains, not _after._

_Asparagus rust._--The most common and destructive disease of asparagus,
producing reddish or black pustules on the stems and branches. Late in
the fall, burn all affected plants. Fertilize liberally and cultivate
thoroughly. During the cutting season, permit no plants to mature and
cut all wild asparagus plants in vicinity once a week. Rust may be
partially controlled by spraying with bordeaux, 5-5-50, containing a
sticker of resin-sal-soda soap, but it is a difficult and expensive
operation and probably not profitable except on large acreage. Begin
spraying after cutting as soon as new shoots are 8 to 10 in. high and
repeat once or twice a week until about September 15. Dusting with
sulfur has proved effective in California.

_Cabbage and cauliflower diseases._--Black-rot is a bacterial disease;
the plants drop their leaves and fail to head. Practice crop rotation;
soak seed 15 min. in a solution made by dissolving one corrosive
sublimate tablet in a pint of water. Tablets may be bought at
drug stores.

Club-root or club-foot is a well-known disease. The parasite lives in
the soil. Practice crop rotation. Set only healthy plants. Do not use
manure containing cabbage refuse. If necessary to use infested land,
apply good stone lime, 2 to 5 tons per acre. Apply at least as early as
the autumn before planting; two to four years is better. Lime the
seed-bed in same way.

_Carnation rust._--This disease may be recognized by the brown, powdery
pustules on the stem and leaves. Plant only the varieties least affected
by it. Take cuttings only from healthy plants. Spray (in the field, once
a week; in the greenhouse, once in two weeks) with copper sulfate, 1 lb.
to 20 gal. of water. Keep the greenhouse air as dry and cool as is
compatible with good growth. Keep the foliage free from moisture. Train
the plants so as to secure a free circulation of air among them.

_Chestnut._--The bark disease of chestnut has become very serious in
southeastern New York, causing the bark to sink and die and killing the
tree. Cutting out the diseased places and treating aseptically may be
useful in light cases, but badly infected trees are incurable, in the
present state of our knowledge. Inspection of nursery stock and burning
of affected trees is the only procedure now to be recommended. The
disease is reported in New England and western New York.

_Chrysanthemum leaf-spot._--Spray with bordeaux, 5-5-50, every ten days
or often enough to protect new foliage. Ammoniacal copper carbonate may
be used, but it is not so effective.

_Cucumber diseases._--"Wilt" is a disease caused by bacteria that are
distributed chiefly by striped cucumber beetles. Destroy the beetles or
drive them away by thorough spraying with bordeaux, 5-5-50. Gather and
destroy all wilted leaves and plants. The most that can be expected is
that the loss may be slightly reduced.

Downy mildew is a serious fungous disease of the cucumber known among
growers as "the blight." The leaves become mottled with yellow, show
dead spots, and then dry up. Spray with bordeaux, 5-5-50. Begin spraying
when the plants begin to run, and repeat every 10 to 14 days throughout
the season.

_Currant diseases._--Leaf-spots and anthracnose are caused by two or
three different fungi. The leaves become spotted, turn yellow, and fall
prematurely. They may be controlled by three to five sprayings with
bordeaux, 5-5-50, but it is doubtful whether the diseases are
sufficiently destructive on the average to warrant so much expense.

_Gooseberry powdery mildew._--The fruit and leaves are covered with a
dirty white growth of fungus. In setting a new plantation, choose a site
where the land is well underdrained and where there is a good
circulation of air. Cut away drooping branches. Keep the ground
underneath free from weeds. Spray with potassium sulfide, 1 oz. to 2
gal.; begin when the buds are breaking and repeat every 7 to 10 days
until the fruit is gathered. Powdery mildew is very destructive to the
European varieties.

_Grape black-rot._--Remove all "mummies" that cling to the arms at
trimming time. Plow early, turning under all old mummies and diseased
leaves. Rake all refuse under the vine into the last furrow and cover
with the grape hoe. This cannot be too thoroughly done. The disease is
favored by wet weather and weeds or grass in the vineyard. Use surface
cultivation and keep down all weeds and grass. Keep the vines well
sprouted; if necessary sprout twice. Spray with bordeaux mixture,
5-5-50, until the middle of July, after that with ammoniacal copper
carbonate. The number of sprayings will vary with the season. Make the
first application when the third leaf shows. Infections take place with
each rain, and occur throughout the growing season. The foliage should
be protected by a coating of the spray before every rain. The new growth
especially should be well sprayed.

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