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Manual of Gardening (Second Edition) by L. H. Bailey

L >> L. H. Bailey >> Manual of Gardening (Second Edition)

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No. 11.--Border, Oxalis tropaeoloides; center, blue heliotrope, blue
ageratum, or Acalypha marginata; cross about the center, Thymus
argenteus, or centaurea; scallop outside the cross, blue lobelia;
corners, inside border, santolina.

Designs 13 and 14 are, in character, somewhat in the style of a
parterre; but instead of the intervening spaces in the bed being
ordinary walks they are of grass. Such beds are of a useful type,
because they may be made large and yet be executed with a comparatively
small number of plants. They are especially suitable for the center of
an open plot of lawn with definite formal boundaries on all sides, such
as walks or drives. Whether they are to be composed of tall-growing or
of low-growing plants will depend upon the distance they are to be from
the observer. For a moderate-sized plot the following plants might
be used:--

No. 13.--Border, red alternanthera; second row, dwarf orange or yellow
nasturtium; third row, Achyranthes Gilsoni, or Acalypha tricolor;
central square, scarlet geraniums, with a border of Centaurea
gymnocarpa; intervening spaces, grass. Instead of the square of
geraniums, a vase might be substituted, or a clump of Salvia splendens.

No. 14.--Composite beds like this and the former are always suggestive.
They contain various features which may readily be recombined into other
patterns. Sometimes it may be convenient to use only portions of the
design. The reader should feel that no arrangement is arbitrary, but
merely a suggestion that he may use with the utmost freedom, only
keeping harmony in view. For No. 14, the following may be an acceptable
planting arrangement: Border, Mme. Salleroi geranium; small dots, dwarf
scarlet tropeolum; diamonds, blue lobelia; crescents, Stevia serrata
variegata; inner border, crimson achyranthes or coleus; loops,
Centaurea gymnocarpa; wedge-shaped portions, scarlet geranium.

No. 15.--Suitable for a corner. Border, red alternanthera; second row,
Alternanthera aurea nana; third row, red alternanthera; center,
Echeveria Californica.

[Illustration: Fig. 241. Carpet-bed for a bay or recession in the border
planting.]

No. 16--Border, crimson alternanthera (another border of yellow
alternanthera might be placed inside of this); ground, Echeveria secunda
glauca; inner border, Oxalis tropaeoloides; center, Alternanthera aurea
nana. Or, inner border, Echeveria Californica; center, crimson
alternanthera.

[Illustration: Fig. 242. Another circular carpet-bed.]

No. 17.--Another bed intended to fill an angle. Its curved side will
also fit it for use with a circular design. Border, dwarf blue
ageratum; circle, blue lobelia; ground (3 parts), crimson alternanthera.

Other carpet or mosaic beds (after Long), with the plants indicated, are
shown in Figs. 241, 242.

2. THE ANNUAL PLANTS

The annual flowers of the seedsmen are those that give their best bloom
in the very year in which the seeds are sown. True annuals are those
plants that complete their entire life-cycle in one season. Some of the
so-called annual flowers will continue to bloom the second and third
years, but the bloom is so poor and sparse after the first season that
it does not pay to keep them. Some perennials may be treated as annuals
by starting the seeds early; Chinese pink, pansy and snapdragon
are examples.

The regular biennials may be treated practically as annuals; that is,
seeds may be sown every year, and after the first year, therefore, a
seasonal succession of bloom may be had. Of such are adlumia, Canterbury
bell, lunaria, ipomopsis, oenothera Lamarckiana; and foxglove,
valerian, and some other perennials would better be treated as
biennials.

Most annuals will bloom in central New York if the seeds are sown in the
open ground when the weather becomes thoroughly settled. But there are
some kinds, as the late cosmos and moon-flowers, for which the northern
season is commonly too short to give good bloom unless they are started
very early indoors.

If flowers of any annual are wanted extra early, the seeds should be
started under cover. A greenhouse is not necessary for this purpose,
although best results are to be expected with such a building. The seed
may be sown in boxes, and these boxes then placed in a sheltered
position on the warm side of a building. At night they may be covered
with boards or matting. In very cold "spells" the boxes should be
brought inside. In this simple way seeds may often be started one to
three weeks ahead of the time when they can be sown in the open garden.
Moreover, the plants are likely to receive better care in these boxes,
and therefore to grow more rapidly. Of course, if still earlier results
are desired, the seed should be sown in the kitchen, hotbed, coldframe,
or in a greenhouse. In starting plants ahead of the season, be careful
not to use too deep boxes. The gardener's "flat" may be taken as a
suggestion. Three inches of earth is sufficient, and in some cases (as
when the plants are started late) half this depth is enough.

The difficulty with early sown seedlings is "drawing up," and weakness
from crowding and want of light. This is most liable to occur with
window-grown plants. Vigorous June-sown plants are better than such
weaklings. It must be remembered that very early bloom usually means the
shortening of the season at the other end; this may be remedied to some
extent by making sowings at different times.

The "hardy" annuals are such as develop readily without the aid of
artificial heat. They are commonly sown in May or earlier, directly in
the open ground where they are to grow. Florists often sow certain kinds
in the fall, and winter the young plants in coldframes. They may also be
wintered under a covering of leaves or evergreen boughs. Some of the
hardy annuals (as sweet pea) withstand considerable frost. The
"half-hardy" and "tender" annuals are alike in that they require more
warmth for their germination and growth. The tender kinds are very
quickly sensitive to frost. Both these, like the hardy kinds, may be
sown in the open ground, but not until the weather has become settled
and warm, which for the tender kinds will not commonly be before the
first of June; but the tender kinds, at least, are preferably started in
the house and transplanted to their outdoor beds. Of course, these terms
are wholly relative. What may be a tender annual in Massachusetts may be
a hardy annual or even a perennial in Louisiana.

These terms as ordinarily used in this country refer to the northern
states, or not farther south than middle Atlantic states.

Some familiar examples of hardy annuals are sweet alyssum, ageratum,
calendula, calliopsis, candytuft, Centaurea Cyanus, clarkia, larkspur,
gilia, California poppy, morning-glory, marigold, mignonette, nemophila,
pansy, phlox, pinks, poppies, portulaca, zinnia, sweet pea, scabiosa.

Examples of half-hardy annuals are: China aster, alonsoa, balsam,
petunia, ricinus, stocks, balloon-vine, martynia, salpiglossis,
thunbergia, nasturtium, verbena.

Examples of tender annuals: Amarantus, celosia or coxcomb, cosmos,
cotton, Lobelia Erinus, cobea, gourds, ice-plant, sensitive-plant,
solanums, torenia, and such things as dahlias, caladiums, and acalypha
used for bedding and subtropical effects.

Some annuals do not bear transplanting well; as poppies, bartonia,
Venus' looking-glass, the dwarf convolvulus, lupinus, and malope. It is
best, therefore, to sow them where they are to grow.

Some kinds (as poppies) do not bloom all summer, more especially not if
allowed to produce seed. Of such kinds a second or third sowing at
intervals will provide a succession. Preventing the formation of seeds
prolongs their life and flowering period.

A few of the annuals thrive in partial shade or where they receive
sunshine for half the day; but most of them prefer a sunny situation.

Any good garden soil is suitable for annuals. If not naturally fertile
and friable, it should be made so by the application of well-rotted
stable-manure or humus. The spading should be at least one foot deep.
The upper six inches is then to be given a second turning to pulverize
and mix it. After making the surface fine and smooth the soil should be
pressed down with a board. The seed may now be sprinkled on the soil in
lines or concentric circles, according to the method desired. After
covering the seed, the soil should be again pressed down with a board.
This promotes capillarity, by which the surface of the soil is better
supplied with moisture from below. Always mark with a label the kind and
position of all seed sown.

If the flowers are to be grown about the edges of the lawn, make sure
that the grass roots do not run underneath them and rob them of food and
moisture. It is well to run a sharp spade deep into the ground about the
edges of the bed every two or three weeks for the purpose of cutting off
any grass roots that may have run into the bed. If beds are made in the
turf, see that they are 3 ft. or more wide, so that the grass roots will
not undermine them. Against the shrub borders, this precaution may not
be necessary. In fact, it is desirable that the flowers fill all the
space between the overhanging branches and the sod.

It is surprising how few of the uncommon or little known annuals really
have great merit for general purposes. There is nothing yet to take the
place of the old-time groups, such as amaranths, zinnias, calendulas,
daturas, balsams, annual pinks, candytufts, bachelor's buttons,
wallflowers, larkspurs, petunias, gaillardias, snapdragons, coxcombs,
lobelias, coreopsis or calliopsis, California poppies, four-o'clocks,
sweet sultans, phloxes, mignonettes, scabiosas, nasturtiums, marigolds,
China asters, salpiglossis, nicotianas, pansies, portulacas, castor
beans, poppies, sunflowers, verbenas, stocks, alyssums, and such good
old running plants as scarlet runners, sweet peas, convolvuluses,
ipomeas, tall nasturtiums, balloon vines, cobeas. Of the annual vines of
recent introduction, the Japanese hop has at once taken a prominent
place for the covering of fences and arbors, although it has no floral
beauty to recommend it.

For bold mass-displays of color in the rear parts of the grounds or
along the borders, some of the coarser species are desirable. Good
plants for such use are: sunflower and castor bean for the back rows;
zinnias for bright effects in the scarlets and lilacs; African marigolds
for brilliant yellows; nicotianas for whites. Unfortunately, we have no
robust-growing annuals with good blues. Some of the larkspurs and the
browallias are perhaps the nearest approach to them.

For lower-growing and less gross mass-displays, the following are good:
California poppies for oranges and yellows; sweet sultans for purples,
whites, and pale yellows; petunias for purples, violets, and whites;
larkspurs for blues and violets; bachelor's buttons (or cornflowers) for
blues; calliopsis and coreopsis and calendulas for yellows; gaillardias
for red-yellows and orange-reds; China asters for many colors.

For still less robustness, good mass-displays can be made with the
following: alyssums and candytufts for whites; phloxes for whites and
various pinks and reds; lobelias and browallias for blues; pinks for
whites and various shades of pink; stocks for whites and reds;
wallflowers for brown-yellows; verbenas for many colors.

A garden of pleasant annual flowers is not complete that does not
contain some of the "everlastings" or immortelles. These "paper flowers"
are always interesting to children. They are not so desirable for the
making of "dry bouquets" as for their value as a part of a garden. The
colors are bright, the blooms hold long on the plant, and most of the
kinds are very easy to grow. My favorite groups are the different kinds
of xeranthemums and helichrysums. The globe amaranths, with clover-like
heads (sometimes known as bachelor's buttons), are good old favorites.
Rhodanthes and acrocliniums are also good and reliable.

The ornamental grasses should not be overlooked. They add a note to the
flower-garden and to bouquets that is distinct and can be secured by no
other plants. They are easily grown. Some of the good annual grasses are
_Agrostis nebulosa,_ the brizas, _Bromus brizaeformis,_ the species of
eragrostis and pennisetums, and _Coix Lachryma_ as a curiosity. Such
good lawn grasses as arundo, pampas-grass, eulalias, and erianthus are
perennials and are therefore not included in this discussion.

Some of the most reliable and easily grown annuals are given in the
following lists (under the common trade names).

_List of annuals by color of flowers._

White Flowers

Ageratum Mexicanum album.
Alyssum, common sweet; compacta.
Centranthus macrosiphon albus.
China asters.
Convolvulus major.
Dianthus, Double White Margaret.
Iberis amara; coronaria, White Rocket.
Ipomoea hederacea.
Lavatera alba.
Malope grandiflora alba.
Matthiola (Stocks), Cut and Come Again; Dresden Perpetual; Giant
Perfection; White Pearl.
Mirabilis longiflora alba.
Nigella.
Phlox, Dwarf Snowball; Leopoldii.
Poppies, Flag of Truce; Shirley; The Mikado.
Zinnia.

Yellow and Orange Flowers

Cacalia lutea.
Calendula officinalis, common; Meteor; sulphurea; suffruticosa.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata; cardaminefolia; elegans picta.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Erysimum Perofskianum.
Eschscholtzia Californica.
Hibiscus Africanus; Golden Bowl.
Ipomoea coccinea lutea.
Loasa tricolor.
Tagetes, various kinds.
Thunbergia alata Fryeri; aurantiaca.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Lady Bird; Tall, Schulzi.
Zinnia.

Blue and Purple Flowers

Ageratum Mexicanum; Mexicanum, Dwarf.
Asperula setosa azurea.
Brachycome iberidifolia.
Browallia Czerniakowski; elata.
Centaurea Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact; Cyanus minor.
China asters of several varieties.
Convolvulus minor; minor unicaulis.
Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata.
Iberis umbellata; umbellata lilacina.
Kaulfussia amelloides; atroviolacea.
Lobelia Erinus; Erinus, Elegant.
Nigella.
Phlox variabilis atropurpurea.
Salvia farinacea.
Specularia.
Verbena, Black-blue; caerulea; Golden-leaved.
Whitlavia gloxinioides.

Red and Rose-red Flowers

Abromia umbellata.
Alonsoa grandiflora.
Cacalia, Scarlet.
Clarkia elegans rosea.
Convolvulus tricolor roseus.
Dianthus, Half Dwarf Early Margaret; Dwarf Perpetual; Chinensis.
Gaillardia picta.
Ipomoea coccinea; volubilis.
Matthiola annuus; Blood-red Ten Weeks; grandiflora, Dwarf.
Papaver (Poppy) cardinale; Mephisto.
Phaseolus multiflorus.
Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf; Dwarf Fireball; Black Warrior.
Salvia coccinea.
Saponaria.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Tom Thumb.
Verbena hybrida, Scarlet Defiance.
Zinnia.

_Useful annuals for edgings of beds and, walks, and for ribbon-beds._

Ageraturn, blue and white.
Alyssum, sweet.
Brachycome.
Calandrinia.
Clarkia.
Collinsias.
Dianthuses or pinks.
Gilia.
Gypsophila muralis.
Iberis or candytufts.
Leptosiphons.
Lobelia Erinus.
Nemophilas.
Nigellas.
Portulaca or rose moss (Fig. 243).
Saponaria Calabrica.
Specularia.
Torenia.
Whitlavia.

_Annuals that continue to bloom after frost._

This list is compiled from Bulletin 161, Cornell Experiment Station.
Several hundred kinds of annuals were grown at this station (Ithaca,
N.Y.) in 1897 and 1898. The notes are given in the original trade names
under which the seedsmen supplied the stock.

Abronia umbellata.
Adonis aestivalis; autumnale.
Argemone grandiflora.
Calendulas.
Callirrhoe.
Carduus benedictus.
Centaurea Cyanus.
Centauridium.
Centranthus macro-
Cerinthe retorta. {siphon.
Cheiranthus Cheiri.
Chrysanthemums.
Convolvulus minor; tricolor.
Dianthus of various kinds.
Elsholtzia cristata.
Erysimum Perofskianum; Arkansanum.
Eschscholtzias, in several varieties (Fig. 249).
Gaillardia picta.
Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata; laciniata; tricolor.
Iberis affinis.
Lavatera alba.
Matthiolas or stocks.
oenothera rosea; Lamarckiana;
Phlox Drummondii. {Drummondii.
Podolepis affinis; chrysantha.
Salvia coccinea; farinacea; Horminum.
Verbenas.
Vicia Gerardi.
Virginian stocks.
Viscaria elegans; oculata; Coeli-rosa.

[Illustration: Figure 243. Portulaca, or rose moss.]

[Illustration: Fig. 244 Pansies]

_List of annuals suitable for bedding (that is, for "mass effects" of
color)._

A list of this kind is necessarily both incomplete and imperfect,
because good new varieties are frequently appearing, and the taste of
the gardener must be consulted. Any plants may be used, broadly
speaking, for bedding; but the following list (given in terms of trade
names) suggests some of the best subjects to use when beds of solid,
strong color are desired.

Adonis aestivalis; autumnalis.
Ageratum Mexicanum; Mexicanum, Dwarf.
Bartonia aurea.
Cacalia.
Calendula officinalis, in several forms; pluvialis; Pongei; sulphurea,
fl. pl.; suffruticosa.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata; cardaminefolia; elegans picta.
Callirrhoe involucrata; pedata; pedata nana.
Centaurea Americana; Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact; Cyanus minor;
suaveolens.
China asters.
Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum; carinatum; coronarium; tricolor.
Convolvulus minor; tricolor.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Delphinium, single; double.
Dianthus, Double White Half Dwarf Margaret; Dwarf Perpetual;
Caryophyllus semperflorens; Chinensis, double; dentosus hybridus;
Heddewigii; imperialis; laciniatus, Salmon Queen; plumarius;
superbus, dwarf fl. pl.; picotee.
Elsholtzia cristata.
Eschscholtzia Californica; crocea; Mandarin; tenuifolia (Fig. 249).
Gaillardia picta; picta Lorenziana.
Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata; laciniata; linifolia; nivalis; tricolor.
Godetia Whitneyi; grandiflora maculata; rubicunda splendens.
Hibiscus Africanus; Golden Bowl.
Iberis affinis; amara; coronaria; umbellata.
Impatiens or balsam.
Lavatera alba; trimestris.
Linum grandiflorum.
Madia elegans.
Malope grandiflora.
Matricaria eximia plena.
Matthiola or stock, in many forms; Wallflower-leaved; bicornis.
Nigella, or Love-in-a-mist.
oenothera Drummondii; Lamarckiana; rosea tetraptera.
Papaver or poppy, of many kinds; cardinale; glaucum; umbrosum.
Petunia, bedding kinds.
Phlox Drummondii, in many varieties.
Portulaca (Fig. 243).
Salvia farinacea; Horminum; splendens.
Schizanthus papilionaceus; pinnatus.
Silene Armeria; pendula.
Tagetes, or marigold, in many forms; erecta; patula; signata.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf.
Verbena auriculaeflora; Italica striata; hybrida; caerulea; Golden-leaved.
Viscaria Coeli-rosa; elegans picta; oculata.
Zinnia, Dwarf; elegans alba; Tom Thumb; Haageana; coccinea
plena (Fig. 247).

[Illustration: XI. The back yard, with summer house, and gardens
beyond.]

_List of annuals by height._

It is obviously impossible to make any accurate or definite list of
plants in terms of their height, but the beginner may be aided by
approximate measurements. The following lists are made from Bulletin 161
of the Cornell Experiment Station, which gives tabular data on many
annuals grown at Ithaca, N.Y. Seeds of most of the kinds were sown in
the open, rather late. "The soil varied somewhat, but it was light and
well tilled, and only moderately rich." Ordinary good care was given the
plants. The average height of the plants of each kind at full growth, as
they stood on the ground, is given in these lists. Of course, these
heights might be less or more with different soils, different
treatments, and different climates; but the figures are fairly
comparable among themselves.

The measurements are based on the stock supplied by leading seedsmen
under the trade names here given. It is not unlikely that some of the
discrepancies were due to mixture of seed or to stock being untrue to
type; some of it may have been due to soil conditions. The same name may
be found in two divisions in some instances, the plants having been
grown from different lots of seeds. The lists will indicate to the
grower what variations he may expect in any large lot of seeds.

Seedsmen's catalogues should be consulted for what the trade considers
to be the proper and normal heights for the different plants.

Plants 6-8 in. high

Abronia umbellata grandiflora.
Alyssum compactum.
Callirrhoe involucrata.
Godetia, Bijou, Lady Albemarle, and Lady Satin Rose.
Gypsophila muralis.
Kaulfussia amelloides.
Leptosiphon hybridus.
Linaria Maroccana.
Lobelia Erinus and Erinus Elegant.
Nemophila atomaria, discoidalis, insignis, and maculata.
Nolana lanceolata, paradoxa, prostrata, and atriplicifolia.
Podolepis chrysantha and affinis.
Portulaca.
Rhodanthe Manglesii.
Sedum caeruleum.
Silene pendula ruberrima.
Verbena.

Plants 9-12 in. high

Alyssum.
Asperula setosa azurea.
Brachycome iberidifolia.
Calandrinia umbellata elegans.
Callirrhoe pedata nana.
Centaurea Cyanus Victoria Dwarf Compact.
Centranthus macrosiphon nanus.
Collinsia bicolor, candidissima and multicolor marmorata.
Convolvulus minor and tricolor.
Eschscholtzia crocea.
Gamolepis Tagetes.
Gilia laciniata and linifolia.
Godetia Duchess of Albany, Prince of Wales, Fairy Queen, Brilliant,
grandiflora maculata, Whitneyi, Duke of Fife, rubicunda splendens.
Helipterum corymbiflorum.
Iberis affinis.
Kaulfussia amelloides atroviolacea, and a. kermesina.
Leptosiphon androsaceus and densiflorus.
Linaria bipartita splendida.
Matthiola dwarf Forcing Snowflake, Wallflower-leaved.
Mesembryanthemum crystallinum.
Mimulus cupreus.
Nemophila atomaria oculata and marginata.
Nigella.
Nolana atriplicifolia.
Omphalodes linifolia.
oenothera rosea and tetraptera.
Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf and Dwarf Snowball.
Rhodanthe maculata.
Saponaria Calabrica.
Schizanthus pinnatus.
Silene Armeria and pendula.
Specularia.
Viscaria oculata cserulea.

Plants 13-17 in. high

Abronia umbellata.
Acroclinium album and roseum.
Brachycome iberidifolia alba.
Browallia Czerniakowski and elata.
Cacalia.
Calandrinia grandiflora.
Calendula sulphurea flore pleno.
Chrysanthemum carinatum.
Collomia coccinea.
Convolvulus minor and minor unicaulis.
Dianthus, the Margaret varieties, Dwarf Perpetual, Caryophyllus
semperflorens, Chinensis, dentosus hybridus, Heddewigii, imperialis,
laciniatus, plumarius, superbus dwarf, picotee, Comtesse de Paris.
Elsholtzia cristata.
Eschscholtzia Californica, Mandarin, maritima and tenuifolia.
Gaillardia picta.
Gilia achillesefolia alba and nivalis.
Helipterum Sanfordii.
Hieracium, Bearded.
Iberis amara, coronaria Empress, coronaria White Rocket,
Sweet-scented, umbellata, umbellata carnea, and umbellata lilacina.
Leptosiphon carmineus.
Lupinus nanus, sulphureus.
Malope grandiflora.
Matthiola, Wallflower-leaved and Virginian stock.
Mirabilis alba.
Nigella.
oenothera Lamarckiana.
Palafoxia Hookeriana.
Papaver, Shirley and glaucum.
Petunia.
Phlox of many kinds.
Salvia Horminum.
Schizanthus papilionaceus.
Statice Thouini and superba.
Tagetes, Pride of the Garden and Dwarf.
Tropaeolum, many kinds of dwarf.
Venidium calendulaceum.
Verbena of several kinds.
Viscaria Coeli-rosa, elegans picta, oculata, and oculata alba.
Whitlavia gloxinioides.

Plants 18-23 in. high

Adonis aestivalis and autumnalis.
Amarantus atropurpureus.
Calendula officinalis, Meteor, suffruticosa, and pluvialis.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata.
Callirrhoe pedata.
Centaurea Cyanus minor Blue and suaveolens.
Centranthus macrosiphon.
Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum, carinatum, tricolor Dunnettii.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Delphinium (annual).
Eutoca Wrangeliana.
Gaillardia picta (Fig. 245), Lorenziana.
Gilia achilleaefolia, a. rosea and tricolor.
Helichrysum atrosanguineum.
Ipomoea coccinea.
Linum grandiflorum.
Loasa tricolor.
Lupinus albus, hirsutus and pubescens.
Malope grandiflora alba.
Matricaria eximia plena.
Matthiola, several kinds.
oenothera Drummondii.
Papaver Mephisto, cardinale, c. hybridum, c. Danebrog, umbrosum.
Tagetes patula and signata.
Vicia Gerardii.
Whitlavia grandiflora and g. alba.
Xeranthemum album and multiflorum album.
Zinnias of many kinds (all not mentioned in other lists).

Plants 24-30 in. high

Bartonia aurea.
Calendula officinalis fl. pl., Prince of Orange and Pongei.
Calliopsis elegans picta.
Cardiospermum Halicacabum.
Carduus benedictus.
Centaurea Cyanus minor Emperor William.
Cheiranthus Cheiri.
Chrysanthemum tricolor, t. hybridum and coronarium sulphureum
fl. pl.
Clarkia elegans rosea.
Datura cornucopia.
Erysimum Arkansanum and Perofskianum.
Eutoca viscida.
Gilia capitata alba.
Helichrysum bracteatum and macranthum.
Hibiscus Africanus.
Impatiens, all varieties.
Lupinus hirsutus pilosus.
Matthiola Blood-red Ten Weeks, Cut and Come Again, grandiflora,
annuus, and others.
Mirabilis Jalapa folio variegata and longiflora alba.
Papaver, American Flag, Mikado and Double.
Perilla laciniata and Nankinensis.
Salvia farinacea.
Tagetes Eldorado, Nugget of Gold, erecta fl. pl.
Xeranthemum annuum and superbissimum fl. pl.
Zinnia elegans alba fl. pl.

[Illustration: Fig. 245. Gaillardia, one of the showy garden annuals.]

Plants 31-40 in. high

Acroclinium, double rose and white.
Adonis aestivalis.
Ageratum Mexicanum album and blue.
Amarantus bicolor ruber.
Argemone grandiflora.
Centaurea Americana.
Centauridium Drummondii.
Cerinthe retorta. {c. double yellow.
Chrysanthemum coronarium album and Clarkia elegans alba fl. pl.
Cleome spinosa.
Cyclanthera pedata.
Datura fastuosa and New Golden
Euphorbia marginata. {Queen.
Gilia capitata alba.
Helianthus Dwarf double and cucu-
Hibiscus Golden Bowl. {merifolius.
Lavatera trimestris.
Madia elegans.
Martynia craniolaria.
Salvia coccinea.

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What is your biggest guilty green secret?

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A Stephen King fan has published an 80-page version of the book which novelist Jack Torrance obsessively writes during King's The Shining, where his descent into madness is revealed when his wife discovers that his work consists of just one phrase, endlessly repeated.

Torrance, played by Jack Nicholson in terrifying form in Stanley Kubrick's 1980 film, is a frustrated writer who goes with his wife and son to spend the winter in the isolated Overlook Hotel in an attempt to get the novel he has always wanted to write started. But the hotel's grisly past and unquiet ghosts have their way with him, and his wife Wendy eventually finds that the manuscript he has been working on actually only contains the phrase "All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy", typed over and over again.

Now New York artist Phil Buehler, who describes himself as "a big fan of Stanley Kubrick and Stephen King", has self-published a book credited to Torrance, repeating the phrase throughout but formatting each page differently, using the words to create different shapes from zigzags to spirals.

"The idea has probably been marinating for years, because I loved the movie and the Stephen King book," said Buehler. "I'd just finished my own obsessive art project [and] it was an idea I had over the Christmas holidays."

He said he decided to stick to type and formatting that could have been created on a typewriter, with the first ten pages duplicating shots of Torrance's work from the film. "I thought 'if he continues to get crazier, what would those pages look like?'" he said. "I hit writer's block about 60 pages in, and I had to get to 80 - that went on for about a week." His fiancée, who had neither read the book nor seen the film, became a little concerned about his actions. "I finally showed her the movie, and she realised I wasn't really losing it," said Buehler.

He's included a spoof review from the blog OverThinkingIt.com on the book's back jacket, which compares it to "the best of Beckett" in its "lack of forward momentum", and considers the struggles of the author, "heroically pitting himself against the Sisyphusean sentence". "It's that metatextual struggle of Man vs. Typewriter that gives this book its spellbinding power," the review says. "Some will dismiss it as simplistic; that's like dismissing a Pollack canvas as mere splatters of paint."

So far, Buehler says that around 1,000 people have viewed the book, for sale on Blurb.com for $8.95 in paperback, or $22.95 in hardback, and he's sold "a few" copies, with sales now starting to pick up steam. "A few people have asked me to sign it - they're looking it as a piece of art rather than a funny thing to give to a Kubrick fan," he said. "If you're not a Kubrick or King fan, you might not even get it."

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