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Manual of Gardening (Second Edition) by L. H. Bailey

L >> L. H. Bailey >> Manual of Gardening (Second Edition)




Dormant roots may be set out in May. The roots, unless small, should be
divided before planting, as a single strong root is usually better than
a whole clump. The roots of all but the Dwarf should be set about 3 feet
apart, in rows. In poor soils none but the first class will need stakes.

The dahlia flourishes best in a deep, loose, moist soil; very good
results can be had on sandy soil, provided plant-food and moisture are
furnished. Clay should be avoided. If the ground is too strong, they
will probably bloom too late for the northern latitudes.

If the plants are to be grown without stakes, the center of each plant
should be pinched out after making two or three joints. By doing this
the lateral branches will start near the ground and be stiff enough to
withstand the winds. In most home gardens the plants are allowed to
reach their full height, and are tied to stakes if necessary. The tall
kinds reach a height of 5 to 8 ft.

Dahlias are very susceptible to frost. After the first frost, lift the
roots, let them dry in the sun, shake off the dirt, trim off tops and
broken parts, and store them in a cellar, as for potatoes. They may be
placed in barrels of sand, if the open cellar is not usable. Cannas may
be stored in the same place.

The tree dahlia (_D. excelsa,_ but cultivated as _D. arborea_) is grown
more or less far South and in California. It has not been much improved.

FERNS.--The native ferns transplant easily to the garden, and they
make an attractive addition to the side of a house, or as an admixture
in a hardy border. The ostrich, cinnamon, and royal ferns are the best
subjects. Give all outdoor ferns a place that is protected from winds,
otherwise they will shrivel and perhaps die. Screen them from the hot
sun, or give them the shady side of the building. See that the soil is
uniformly moist, and that it does not get too hot. Mulch with leafmold
in the fall. It is not difficult to colonize many of the native ferns in
shady and protected places where trees do not sap all the strength from
the ground.

Probably the one fern grown most extensively as a house-plant is the
small-leaved maidenhair fern (or _Adiantum gracillimum_). This and other
species are among the finest of house plants, when sufficient moisture
can be given. They make fine specimens as well as serving the purpose of
greenery for cut flowers. Other species often grown for house plants are
_A. cuneatum_ and _A. Capillus-Veneris._ All these do well in a mixture
of fibrous sod, loam, and sand, with ample drainage material. They may
be divided if an increase is wanted.

Another fern for house culture is _Nephrolepsis exaltata._ This is no
doubt the most easily grown of the list, flourishing in a sitting-room.
A variety of _N. exaltata,_ called the Boston fern, is a decided
addition to this group, having a drooping habit, covering the pot and
making a fine stand or bracket plant; and there are now several other
forms of it suitable for the best window-gardens.

Several species of pteris, especially _P. serrulata,_ are valuable
house ferns but require a warmer place than those mentioned above. They
will also thrive better in a shady or ill-lighted corner.

Perfect drainage and care in watering have more to do with the
successful growing of ferns than any special mixture of soils. If the
drainage material in the bottom of the pot or box is sufficient, there
is little danger of overwatering; but water-logged soil is always to be
avoided. Do not use clay soils. Ferns need protection from the direct
sunshine, and also a moist atmosphere. They thrive well in a close glass
box, or window-garden, if the conditions can be kept equable.

FREESIA.--One of the best and most easily handled tender
winter-flowering bulbs; height 12 or 15 inches. The white form _(Freesia
refracta alba_) is the best.

The white or yellowish bell-shaped flowers of freesia are produced on
slender stalks just above the foliage, to the number of six to eight in
a cluster. They are very fragrant, and last for a considerable time when
picked. The bulbs are small, and look as though they could not produce a
growth of foliage and flowers, but even the smallest mature bulb will
prove satisfactory. Several bulbs should be planted together in a pot,
box, or pan, in October, if wanted for the holidays, or later if wanted
at Easter. The plants bloom from ten to twelve weeks from planting,
under ordinary care.

No special treatment is required; keep the plants cool and moist through
the growing season. The soil should contain a little sand mixed with
fibrous loam, and the pot should be well drained. After flowering,
gradually withhold water and the tops will die down, after which the
roots may be shaken out and rested until time to plant in fall. Care
should be taken to keep them perfectly dry.

The bulbs increase rapidly from offsets. Plants may also be grown from
seed, which should be sown as soon as ripe, giving blooming plants the
second or third year.

FUCHSIA.--Well-known window or greenhouse shrub, treated as an
herbaceous subject; many interesting forms; late winter, spring
and summer.

Fuchsia is readily grown from cuttings. Soft green wood should be used
for cuttings, and it will root in about three weeks, when the cuttings
should be potted. Take care not to have them pot-bound while in growth,
but do not overpot when bloom is wanted. Given warmth and good soil,
they will make fine plants in three months or less. In well-protected,
partially shady places they may be planted out, growing into miniature
bushes by fall.

Plants may be kept on from year to year; and if the branches are well
cut back after blooming, abundant new bloom will come. But it is usually
best to make new plants each year from cuttings, since young plants
commonly bloom most profusely and demand less care. Fuchsias are amongst
the best of window subjects.

GERANIUM.--What are commonly known as geraniums are, strictly
speaking, pelargoniums. (See _Pelargonium._)

The true geraniums are mostly hardy perennials, and therefore should not
be confounded with the tender pelargoniums. Geraniums are worthy a place
in a border. They may be transplanted early in the spring, setting them
2 ft. apart. Height 10 to 12 in. The common wild cranesbill _(Geranium
maculatum_) improves under cultivation, and is an attractive plant when
it stands in front of taller foliage.

GLADIOLUS.--Of summer and fall-blooming bulbous plants, gladiolus
is probably the most widely popular. The colors range from scarlet and
purple, to white, rose, and pure yellow. The plants are of slender,
erect habit, growing from 2 to 3 feet high.

Gladioli dislike a heavy clay soil. A light loam or sandy soil suits
them best. No fresh manure should be added to the soil the year in which
they are grown. They should have a new place every year, if possible,
and always an open sunny situation.

The corms may be covered 2 inches deep in heavy soils, and 4 to 6 in
light soils. They may stand 8 to 10 inches apart, or half this distance
for mass effects. For a succession, they may be planted at short
intervals, the earliest planting being of smaller corms in the early
spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work; later the larger are
to be planted--the last setting being not later than the Fourth of July.
This last planting will afford fine late flowers. The plants should be
supported by inconspicuous stakes.

The successive plantings may be in the same bed among those set earlier,
or they may be grouped in unoccupied nooks, or portions of the border.
The plants may stand as close as 6 inches from each other. The earlier
planting may be a foot apart to admit of later settings between.

Late in the fall, after frosts and before freezing, the corms are to be
dug, cleaned, and dried in the sun and air for a few hours and then
stored away in boxes about 2-1/2 inches deep in a cool, dark, and dry
place. The tops should be left on, at least till completely shriveled.
The varieties are perpetuated and multiplied by the little corms that
appear about the base of the large new corm which is formed each year.
These small corms may be taken off in the spring and sown thickly in
drills. Many of them will make flowering plants by the second season.
They are treated like the large corms, in the fall.

Gladioli are easily grown from seed also, but this method cannot be
depended on to perpetuate desirable varieties, which can be reproduced
only by the cormels. Some of the best flowers may be cross-pollinated,
or allowed to form seed in the usual manner; the seed sown thickly in
drills, and shaded till the plantlets appear, then carefully cultivated,
will afford a crop of small corms in the fall. These may be stored for
the winter, like the other young corms, and, like them, many will flower
the second season, affording a great variety and quite likely some new
and striking kinds. Those that do not flower should be reserved for
further trial. They often prove finer than those first to flower.

Early-flowering varieties of gladioli may be forced for late winter or
spring bloom.

For bouquets, cut the spike when the lower flowers open; keep in fresh
water, cut off the end of the stem frequently, and the other flowers
will expand.

GLOXINIA.--Choice greenhouse tuberous-rooted, spring and
summer-blooming perennials, sometimes seen in window-gardens, but really
not adapted to them, although some skillful house-gardeners grow them
successfully.

Gloxinias must have a uniform moist and warm atmosphere and protection
from the sun. They will not stand abuse or varying conditions.
Propagated often by leaf-cuttings, which should give flowering plants in
one year. From the leaf, inserted half its length in the soil (or
sometimes only the petiole inserted) a tuber arises. This tuber, after
resting until midwinter or later, is planted, and flowering plants
soon arise.

Gloxinias also grow readily from seeds, which may be germinated in a
temperature of about 70 deg.. Flowering plants may be had in August if
seeds are sown in late winter, say in early February. This is the usual
method. After the bloom is past, the tuber is partially dried off and
kept dormant till the following season. It will usually show signs of
activity in February or March, when it may be shaken out of the old
earth and a little water may then be applied and the amount increased
till the plant is in bloom. The same tubers may be bloomed
several times.

Success in the growing of gloxinias is largely a matter of proper
watering. Keep the dormant tuber just dry enough to prevent shriveling,
never trying to force it ahead of its time. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Protect from direct sunlight. Protect from draughts on the plants.

GREVILLEA.--The "she oak," very graceful greenhouse plant, suitable
also for house culture. The plants grow freely from seed, and until they
become too large are as decorative as ferns. Grevilleas are really
trees, and are valuable in greenhouses and rooms only in their young
state. They withstand much abuse. They are now very popular as
jardiniere subjects. Seeds sown in spring will give handsome plants by
the next winter. Discard the plants as soon as they become ragged.

HOLLYHOCKS.--These old garden favorites have been neglected of late
years, primarily because the hollyhock rust has been so prevalent,
destroying the plants or making them unsightly.

Their culture is very simple. The seed is usually sown in July or
August, and the plants set where wanted the following spring. They will
bloom the same year in which they are transplanted--the year following
the seed-sowing. New plants should be set every two years, as the old
crowns are likely to rot or die after the first flowering, or at least
to become weak.

HYACINTHS (see _Bulbs_) are popular spring-flowering bulbs.
Hyacinths are hardy, but they are often used as window or greenhouse
plants. They are easy to grow and very satisfactory (Fig. 262).

For winter flowering, the bulbs should be procured early in the fall,
potted in October in soil composed of loam, leafmold, and sand. If
ordinary flower-pots are used, put in the bottom a few pieces of broken
pots, charcoal, or small stones for drainage; then fill the pot with
dirt, so that when the bulb is planted, the top will be on a level with
the rim of the pot. Fill in around the bulb with soil, leaving just the
tip showing. These pots of bulbs should be placed in a cold pit, cellar
or on the shady side of a building. In all cases, plunge the pot in some
cool material (as cinders). Before the weather becomes cold enough to
freeze a crust on the ground, the pots should have a protection of straw
or leaves to keep the bulbs from severe freezing. In about six to eight
weeks the bulbs should have made roots enough to grow the plant, and the
pots may be placed in a cool room for a short time. When the plants have
started into growth, they may be placed in a warmer situation. Watering
should be carefully attended to from this time, and when the plant is in
bloom, the pot may be set in a saucer or other shallow dish containing
water. After flowering, the bulbs may be ripened by gradually
withholding water until the leaves die. They may then be planted out in
the border, where they will bloom each spring for a number of years, but
will never prove satisfactory for forcing again.

The open-ground culture of hyacinths is the same as for tulips and other
Holland bulbs.

The hyacinth is the most popular of the Dutch bulbs for growing in vases
of water. The narcissus may be grown in water, and do just as well, but
it is not as attractive in glasses as the hyacinth. Glasses for
hyacinths may be had of florists who deal in supplies, and in various
shapes and colors. The usual form is tall and narrow, with a cup-like
mouth to receive the bulb. They are filled with water, so that it will
just reach the base of the bulb when placed in position in the cup or
shoulder above. The vessels of dark-colored glass are preferable to
those of clear glass, as roots prefer darkness. When the glasses have
been filled, they are set away in a cool, dark place, where roots will
form, as in potted bulbs. Results are usually secured earlier in water
than in soil. To keep the water sweet, a few lumps of charcoal may be
put in the glass. As the water evaporates, add fresh; add enough so that
it runs over, and thereby renews that in the glass. Do not disturb the
roots by taking out the bulb.

IRIS includes many handsome perennials, of which the blue flag is
familiar to every old-fashioned garden. They are favorites everywhere,
for their brilliant spring and summer bloom; and they are easy to grow.

Most irises thrive best in a rather moist soil, and some of them may be
colonized in the water in margins of ponds.

Gardeners usually divide them into two sections--the tuberous-rooted or
rhizomatous, and the bulbous. A third division--the fibrous-rooted--is
sometimes made.

The common and most serviceable species belong to the tuberous-rooted
section. Here is the beautiful and varied Japanese iris, _Iris
loevigata_ (or _I. Koempferi_), which is among the most deserving of
all hardy perennials. Most of these irises need no special care. They
are propagated by division of the rootstocks. Plant the pieces one foot
apart if a mass effect is desired. When the plants begin to fail, dig
them up, divide the roots, discard the old parts, and grow a new stock,
as before. The Japanese iris needs much water and a very rich soil.
Readily grown from seeds, giving bloom the second year. _I Susiana,_ of
this section, is one of the oddest of irises, but it is not quite hardy
in the North.

Of the bulbous section, most species are not hardy far North. The bulbs
should be taken up and replanted every two or three years. The Persian
and Spanish irises belong here. The bulbs give rise to but a
single stem.

LILY.--Under this name are included bulbous plants of many kinds,
not all of them being true lilies. It has been said of this family of
plants that it has no "poor relations," each of them being perfect in
itself. Many of the choicest kinds are comparatively unknown, although
easy to cultivate. In fact, all of the lilies may be grown with
comparative ease in regions where the given species are hardy.

A light, fertile, well-drained soil, mellow to the depth of at least one
foot, a handful of sand under each bulb if the soil is inclined to be
stiff, and planting so that the crown of the bulb will be at least 4
inches below the surface, are the general requirements. One exception to
the depth of planting is _Lilium auratum,_ or golden-banded lily. This
should be planted deeper--from 8 to 12 inches below the surface--as the
new bulbs form over the old one and soon bring the bulbs to the surface
if they are not planted deep. Deep working of the ground is always
desirable; 18 inches, or even 2 feet, will be none too deep. _L.
candidum_ and _L. testaceum_ should be planted in August or September,
if possible; but usually lilies are planted in October and November.

For all lilies it is safer to provide good winter protection in the form
of a mulch of leaves or manure, and extending beyond the borders of the
planting. This should be 5 inches to a foot deep, according to the
latitude or locality.

While most lilies profit by partial shade (except _L. candidum_), they
should never be planted near or under trees. The shade or protection of
tall-growing herbaceous plants is sufficient. In fact, the best results,
both as to growth and effect, may be secured by planting amongst low
shrubbery or border plants.

Most kinds are the better for remaining undisturbed for a number of
years; but if they are to be taken up and divided, or moved to other
quarters, they should not be allowed to become dry. The small bulbs, or
offsets, may be planted in the border, and if protected, will grow to
flowering size in two or three years. In taking up bulbs for division it
is best to do so soon after the tops die after blooming. At least this
should be done early in the fall, not later than October, giving the
plants a chance to become established before freezing weather.

As pot-plants some kinds of lilies are very satisfactory, especially
those that may be forced into bloom through the winter. The best kinds
for this purpose are _L. Harrisii_ (Easter lily), _L. longiflorum,_ and
_L. candidum._ Others may be forced with success, but these are the ones
most generally used. The winter culture for forcing is practically the
same as for hyacinths in pots.

Some of the best kinds of lilies are mentioned below:--

_L. candidum_ (Annunciation lily). White; 3 to 4 feet high; it makes an
autumn growth, and should, therefore, be planted in August; set the
bulbs from 4 to 6 inches deep.

_L. speciosum_ (_L. lancifolium_), var. _proecox._ White, tinged with
pink; bears several flowers on a stem about 3 feet high.

_L. speciosum,_ var. _rubrum._ Rose color, spotted with red.

_L. Brownii._ Flowers white inside, chocolate-colored outside; the stems
grow about 3 feet high, bearing from 2 to 4 tubular flowers; not
difficult to manage with good protection and drainage; the bulbs are
impatient of being kept long out of the ground; after planting, they
should not be disturbed as long as they flower well.

_L. maculatum (L. Hansoni)_. Dark yellow; stems 3-4 feet high, each
producing 6 to 12 flowers.

_L. testaceum (L. excelsum, L. Isabellinum)_. Rich buff color, with
delicate spots; plants about 3 to 5 feet high, with 3 to a dozen flowers
on a stem; plant the bulbs in September.

_L. longiflorum._ White; large tubular flowers, 2 to 8 on a stem;
height, about 2-1/2 feet.

_L. Batemanniae_ (a form of _L. elegans_). Apricot yellow; 6 to 12
flowers on stems 3 to 4 feet high.

_L. auratum_ (Japanese gold-banded lily). Immense white flowers banded
with yellow and dotted with red or purple, from 3 to 12 on a stem;
height, 3 to 4 feet; the bulbs need thorough protection, good drainage,
and should be planted 10 or 12 inches deep (Fig. 258).

_L. tigrinum_ (Tiger lily). An old favorite, with many drooping bright
red spotted flowers; var. _splendens_ is specially good; 3 to 5 ft.

_L. tenuifolium._ Rich scarlet flowers nodding in a raceme or panicle;
1-1/2 to 2 ft.

_L. Maximowiczii (L. Leichtlinii)_. Flowers clear yellow, with small,
dark spots, 10 to 12 on a stem; height, 4 feet.

_L. monadelphum._ Yellow tubular-shaped flowers in clusters of 6 to a
dozen or more; stems 2-1/2 feet tall.

_L. elegans (L. Thunbergianum_), var. _Alice Wilson._ Lemon-yellow;
stems 2 feet high, bearing 2 to 8 flowers.

_L. elegans,_ var. _fulgens atrosanguineum._ Dark crimson; height, 1
foot.

LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY.--A perfectly hardy little perennial, bearing
racemes of small, white, bell-shaped flowers in early spring; and also
much forced by florists.

For ordinary cultivation, sods or mats of roots may be dug from any
place in which the plant is colonized. Usually it thrives best in
partial shade; and the leaves make an attractive mat on the north side
of a building, or other shady place, in which grass will not grow. The
plants will take care of themselves year after year. Better results may
be expected from good commercial roots. The "pips" may be planted any
time from November on, from 3 to 6 inches apart.

For forcing indoors, imported roots or "pips" are used, as the plants
are grown for this particular purpose in parts of Europe. These roots
may be planted in pots, and treated as recommended for winter-flowering
bulbs. Florists force them in greater heat, however, often giving them a
bottom heat of 80 deg. or 90 deg.; but skill and experience are required in
order to attain uniformly good results in this case.

MIGNONETTE.--Probably no flower is more generally grown for its
fragrance than the mignonette. It is a half-hardy annual, thriving
either in the open or under glass.

The mignonette needs a cool soil, only moderately rich, shade part of
the day, and careful attention to cutting the flower-stalks before the
seeds are ripe. If a sowing be made in late April, followed by a second
sowing in early July, the season may be extended until severe frosts.
There are few flowers that will prove as disappointing if the simple
treatment it needs is omitted. Height, 1 to 2 feet.

It may be sown in pots late in summer and be had in the house in winter.

MOON-FLOWERS are species of the morning-glory family that open
their flowers at night. A well-grown plant trained over a porch trellis,
or allowed to grow at random over a low tree or shrub, is a striking
object when in full flower at dusk or through a moonlit evening. In the
Southern states (where it is much grown) the moon-flower is a perennial,
but even when well protected does not survive the winters in the North.

Cuttings usually give best results in the Northern states, as the
seasons are not long enough for seed plants to give good bloom.
Cuttings may be made before danger of frost and wintered in the house,
or the plants may be grown from seed sown in January or February. Seeds
should be scalded or filed just before sowing.

The true moon-flower is _Ipomoea Bona-Nox_ white-flowered; but there
are other kinds that go under this name. This grows 20 to 30 feet where
the seasons are long enough.

NARCISSUS (see _Bulbs_).--Daffodils, jonquils, and the poet's
narcissus all belong to this group, and many of them are perfectly
hardy. The polyanthus section, which includes the Paper-white narcissus
and sacred lily or Chinese joss-flower, are not hardy except with
unusually good protection, and are, therefore, most suitable for
growing indoors.

It is common to allow the hardy sorts to take care of themselves when
once planted. This they will do, but much more satisfactory results will
be had by lifting and dividing the clumps every three or four years. A
single bulb in a few years forms a large clump. In this condition the
bulbs are not properly nourished, and consequently do not flower well.
Lifting is preferably done in August or September, when the foliage has
died down and the bulbs are ripe.

The narcissi are well suited to partially shaded places, and will grow
and please wherever good taste may place them. They should be freely
used, as they are fragrant, bright of color, and easily managed--growing
among shrubbery, trees, and in places where other flowers would refuse
to grow. They should be planted in clumps or masses, in September or
October, setting the bulbs 5 to 8 inches apart, according to size, and 3
or 4 inches deep.

Several species and numberless varieties, both double and single, are
grown. A few good types only can be mentioned (Fig. 260):--

_Daffodils, or Trumpet narcissus (Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus_ and
derivatives).

_Single-flowered, Yellow._--Golden Spur, Trumpet Major, Van Sion.

_White._--Albicans.

_White and Yellow._--Empress, Horsefieldi.

_Double-flowering, Yellow._--Incomparable fl. pl., Van Sion.

_White._--Alba plena odorata.

_Poet's narcissus (N. poeticus_). Flowers white, with yellow cups edged
crimson. Very fragrant.

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Turkey is restoring the citizenship of its most famous 20th century poet Nazim Hikmet over 50 years after it branded him a traitor.

Hikmet, a communist who died in exile in Moscow in 1963, was imprisoned in Turkey for more than a decade. He was stripped of his Turkish nationality in 1951 because of his communist views, but despite a ban on his poetry which remained in place until 1965, has remained one of Turkey's best-loved poets. His work, much of which was written in prison, including his masterpiece Human Landscapes, has been translated into more than 50 languages.

"This is very good news," said Richard McKane, Hikmet's English translator. "The restoration of his Turkish citizenship is long overdue: the people of Turkey and his readers are owed that."

Immortalised by Pablo Neruda, with whom he shared the Soviet Union's International Peace Prize in 1950, with the lines "Thanks for what you were and for the fire / which your song left forever burning", Hikmet was also supported by Jean-Paul Sartre and Pablo Picasso. Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk, when given the editorship for a day of Turkish newspaper Radikal two years ago, used the example of Hikmet in his cover story to criticise the lack of freedom of expression in Turkey. In 2000, 500,000 Turks petitioned the government to restore Hikmet's citizenship rights and repatriate his remains.

Deputy prime minister Cemil Cicek told the Associated Press that it was time for the government to change its mind about Hikmet. "The crimes which forced the government to strip him of his citizenship at that time are no longer considered a crime," the BBC quoted him as saying.

Hikmet, whose remains are currently in Russia, had said that he wished to be buried in Turkey in his 1953 poem Testament, translated by Ruth Christie. "Friends if it's not my lot to see the day / of independence... / if I die before that day / - and it seems I will - / bury me in a village graveyard in Anatolia / and if it's fitting / and a plane tree grows at my head, / then there's no need for a gravestone or anything else."

Cicek said that Hikmet's family would now decide whether to ship his remains back to his homeland.

Hikmet introduced free verse to Turkey in the 1930s, with his themes ranging from war to love. Despite his imprisonment he retained a deep passion for Turkey. "I love my country", he wrote in one of his poems. "I swung in its lofty trees, I lay in its prisons. Nothing relieves my depression like the songs and tobacco of my country."

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