Charles Philip Yorke, Fourth Earl of Hardwicke, Vice Admiral R.N. by Lady Biddulph of Ledbury

L >> Lady Biddulph of Ledbury >> Charles Philip Yorke, Fourth Earl of Hardwicke, Vice Admiral R.N.

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'I had some very amusing excursions with this Chief and we became great
friends, he is in person one of the handsomest and finest men I ever
saw, and had Maria seen him manage his horse she would never have
forgotten it. I could give very interesting accounts of our picnics and
rides, when his Albanians roasted the sheep whole stuffed with almonds
and raisins, &c. &c. but it will take more time than I can spare, and I
fear by this time you will be nearly tired, but you must bear with me up
to the date I write from before I give up. The other Chiefs of Note,
Mavrocordato and Colcotronis, are men of perfectly different characters
but both by their different means attempting to aggrandize themselves.
The former's weapons are his talents and his tongue, the latter's his
courage and his sword. Colcotronis rebelled and try'd to overthrow the
provisional Government, he blockaded Napoli and was for some weeks
fighting with the Govt. Corps in the Plains of Argos, but Odysseus
appearing on the mountain, neither knowing which side he would take,
they suspended their arms and a reconciliation was brought about. I
think of late there has been a little more apparent conduct in the
Chiefs than before. I see in our papers great puffs about the fighting
in Greece. The warfare, in fact, is desultory and next to ridiculous
excepting in the passes of the Mountains, and when Turkish cavalry are
caught there the Greeks always kill them all. As yet the campaign is
rather against the Greek by the loss of Psara, their chief Naval Island,
which from its situation much annoy'd the Turk.

'But to the Greek Committee! Great as the respect is which I feel for a
set of men who have wished to give assistance to that cause so dear to
every Englishman, yet I regret much the material and money that has been
wasted and frittered away to no purpose. Had the Greek Committee fully
understood the business they were about to take in hand they would not
have sent out the quantities of valuable yet useless stores which are
now I believe in the possession of the people of Missolonghi. If instead
of sending out surveying instruments, sextants, telescopes and
numberless instruments used by our artillery and engineers, they had
caused to be manufactured musquets, yataghans and pistols in the fashion
of the country together with powder and ball, and had taken care that a
proper commission was there ready to receive it and take care that they
were properly distributed, I would have given them some credit; but as
yet I think what they have sent has created bad blood among the people
and rivalry among the Chiefs who should possess the whole. When Odysseus
heard that supplies of stores had arrived from England at Missolonghi he
sent 300 men and a captain to get some, he demanded a share and it was
refused; he then forcibly took away four field guns and forty barrels of
powder on mules and carried them safe to Parnassus. The man who did this
was Mr. Trelawney from whom I had the circumstance. Of the money the
Committee have just sent out, a little comes back to us, for the Greeks
always allege they cannot pay for the piracies committed on our Flag
until the money arrives from England! This is too great a farce! I have
actually been once to Napoli for money, which has been owing for this
year pass'd and which they never would pay until they were able to pay
it in English sovereigns.

'Greece has the name of fighting but with the present sort of warfare
that goes on, unless some interference is made or the one party or the
other gets weary, it may continue without progression towards the grand
end, peace, until doomsday.

'After leaving Napoli I went to Hydra where I had some piratical
business to settle. On pulling into the port in my boat I saw a vessel
there under British colors that informed me they had that morning been
captured by an Hydriote corsair, I desired that she should be instantly
given up to me which they refused doing; I that evening cut her out with
the _Alacrity's_ Boats; I put half my crew and all my marines into
the three boats going myself in my gig, making Trescott in the brig
stand slap into the port with her guns loaded with round shot and grape.
The shores of the harbour (which is not more than two cables lengthward)
lined with about 12,000 men, her guns would have made dreadful havoc. In
three minutes from the time we got on board, the Greeks had jumped
overboard and her cables were cut, and out she came without the loss of
a single man. They have protested against me to the Govt. at Napoli but
_it's all right_, and I did what was perfectly proper in all
points. These rascals must not be allowed to capture British vessels on
any pretence whatever; if they are allowed to do so, even on pretences
of assisting their enemies, no vessel but a man of war will be able to
sail in these seas.

'From Hydra hearing that Samos was about to be attacked by the Turks I
sailed thither, and on the first day of their attack (in which they were
repulsed) I took off 106 women and children with their property,
_being British subjects_, and carried them to Smyrna. From there on
my way to Napoli I fell in with the _Martin_ and returned to
Smyrna, where I found _Euryalus_. He went to sea and has left me
Gardo here. Finding that for a time my sea trips were suspended I set
off for Magnesia and much delighted I have been with my trip, suffice it
to say that nothing can be kinder than the great Turks are to me, and in
a few days I return to Magnesia to hunt with Ali Bey the Governor of
that Town. But I must reserve a description of these trips until another
letter, as I am sure you will be heartily tired by the time you have got
through my _griffonage_.

'I have enjoy'd all this summer most excellent health, and the climate
has completely left off its baneful influence upon me, thank God.

'Tell Lady C. I have collected for her a quantity of antient Greek,
Roman and Egyptian pottery, the greater part of which is most
exceedingly valuable, and some that I dug myself at Samos.

'I have also collected a quantity of very fine Coins (Greek) which
_if_ I get a safe conveyance, I shall send Uncle Charles. Tell him
so! This letter I know he will see, so if he will, take it as written as
much to himself as you and indeed all the family, To whom individually &
collectively give my afftn. love.

'Don't show my letters to any but the family Pray!

'You will be amused to hear I wear the Turkish dress on these
excursions.

'Your most afftn. Son

'C. YORKE.

'PS.--Affectionate Love to U. K. and Agneta an affectionate Embrace to
H. Y., E. Y. and G. Y.'

* * * * *

ALEXANDRIA:

Dec. 27, 1825.

'MY DEAREST FATHER,

'Although I cannot write as long a letter as I intended and wish, for
lack of time, yet, as there are several vessels in this harbour on the
point of sailing for England, I must, after so long an interval, put pen
to paper in your behalf.

'By the finish of my last letter to you which I trust was prolix enough
I was at Smyrna, and had informed you of my visiting in this country its
nobles and princes: and I think mentioned something of a visit I paid to
Ali Bey, the Governor of Idun a country to the Nd. of Smyrna, whose
capital is Magnesia, where the residence of the Governor is. I twice
visited this Prince, and, so much was he pleased the first time, that he
invited me to come a second when there was to be a hunt of birds and
beasts. On the 13th of September, Forrester the Surgeon, Weatley my 2nd
Lieutenant, and myself with a young Armenian as an interpreter and a
Janissary for a "Garde du corps," started "au point du jour" from
Smyrna, and arrived in the afternoon at Magnesia, one of the prettiest
Turkish towns I have seen. Our journey slow, over bad roads, did not
afford any circumstances much worth relating. We found our new
acquaintances Turk and Christian, both in their way agreeable; the
Armenian, young, sensible, and an extraordinary linguist, speaking nine
languages though not twenty years of age. The Old Turk, funny, fat and
good-natured. The latter part of our journey lay thro' a pass in the
mountains from the summit of which the Valley of Magnesia suddenly burst
on our view, with the town on the eastern side at the foot of a
perpendicular rocky mountain very like the rock of Gibraltar, but if
anything higher, more craggy, and bold: the valley that lay before us,
bounded on the W. by a ridge of regular round topped hills, and to the
Nd. the eye could not reach the extent of this immense plain, which is
covered with vines, and fig trees, corn, and tobacco, the best in
Natolia. On my arrival, I sent my Janissary from the Kane I put up at to
say I was arrived, when an officer from the Bey came, and marched us
thro' the street till we stopped at one of the best looking houses I had
seen; we were ushered in, and I was then informed we were to live here
and that if I did not like it and was not comfortable that I should have
another. But I soon found out we could not be better off; the Bey having
sent us to the house of the Primate of the Greeks, who was obliged to
receive us whether he liked it or not, it being sufficient that a Turk
orders it. But in truth, I believe the old Patriarch was very proud of
the honor for no hospitality could outdo his: the fatted calf was killed
and we feasted sumptuously. Fingers were now called into requisition as
knives and forks are no part of the necessaries of these Oriental
nations. Such tearing of fowls and tucking up of sleeves! After dinner
the water, and then the Alpha and Omega of all oriental visitings,
mornings, noons, and nights, "Coffee and Pipes." During the evening some
pretty girls, the daughters of the Old Man, danced before us, those
dances which the women of the country are so famous for: tho' none of
the most decent yet very curious, some young men playing the guitar and
singing, for the song always accompanies the dance. My Janissary was so
delighted, that, he swore if he had only had two glasses of wine he
would fire his pistols right and left. I felt rather satisfied he had
not had the wine he spoke of. We were all fagged enough to find our beds
on the floor capital; and the next day we visited the Bey.

'January 16, 1825.--I am now at sea and had intended this letter from
Alexandria, and, as I said before, it was to be short; but now I shall
send it from Malta, and it is to be long.

'But to resume my story. When we arrived at the palace he was dining in
the Kiosk with some of his friends, and we had to wait a little while
until the repast was ended when we were ushered in. He received us very
haughtily, and in a manner not at all consistent with the kind messages
he had sent us. Pipes and Coffee were served, and the conversation was
rather slack. At his feet sat one of the most extraordinary figures I
ever saw in my life; a countenance more devilish was never given to
Dervish before. After we had been seated some time, this man, who had
never opened his lips but had eyed us with the greatest attention and
ferocity, at length began to mutter, "Kenkalis, Kenkalis, taib ben"
("English, English, I hope you are well"). This was one of those
privileged people which in these countries are called Dervishes, who are
dreaded and respected by the superstitious, and who afford amusement by
their extraordinary antics to others. They have the _entree_ of all
houses great or small, rich or poor, and are never refused food or
raiment: it being in itself a crime, to insult or offend all who are in
any way extraordinary: the more mad, the more sacred the person. Madness
in Turkey is an excellent trade.

'At length I soon discovered how it was that my new friend the Bey was
thus: his friends (Turks) rose to depart, so did I but he desired me to
sit down again. The moment the Turks had departed he was a new man. I
have never been so pleased with any Turk in my life as with Ali Bey. His
affability and kindness were European, which, when blended with the
handsomest form and face the costume of a Turk and pomp of a prince,
made a most agreeable acquisition to my Eastern acquaintance.

'He now began to make his attendants play all sorts of tricks with the
Dervish to draw him out; who seemed to be a perfect prince in the art of
buffoonery. We were amazingly amused. He now told me he had a grand
_chasse_ in twenty-five days' time, and desired that I would come
to him on that day, bring my gun, and stay with him a week; nothing
could have pleased me more than this offer. And as I lay Gardo in
Smyrna, twenty-five days afterwards I again found myself in Magnesia,
housed with the old Greek Patriarch a second time. He now sent us down
to the village of Graviousken (?) (Infidel Village) where we were well
lodged: his cook and household chief accompanied us, and the following
day he came himself. Our hunt, tho' not much sport to English taste, yet
was most amusing. The magnificence of the horses and riders; their
equipage and management of the animal; riding at speed, as tho' they
were on the point of being dashed to pieces, against a wall or down a
precipice, at once coming to a dead stop. Riding at each other,
delivering the jareed, firing their pistols and wheeling short round in
an instant, and at speed in the opposite direction. We had greyhounds
and killed a few hares. The following days were unfortunately wet; we
returned to Magnesia.

'The first visit I paid the Bey this time, I honored him with my full
dress for reasons very good, he was not quite sure who I was. It was
also necessary that his people should have outward shew, to satisfy
them: this I was nearly paying dear for. There is a horrid custom in
this country, of paying a certain sum to the attendants of these great
people every visit you make. A few piastres had heretofore satisfied,
but on leaving, after this Golden Visit, they seized my interpreter the
moment he took his purse out, tore it away from him took all he had
saying, "they should never see such a man again" and returned him the
empty purse. He fortunately had been prepared for such an attack and had
a proper sum and no more in his purse, but had it not been for this
sagacity, I might have lost all the money I had with me. Our dinner at
Graviousken was capital, he had wine for us; fingers were again in
requisition, and we were obliged to eat of twenty-six dishes, each
brought separately on the table, one after the other, which you had no
sooner begun to think good, than it was immediately snatched away and
disappeared. After having given to my old Greek some presents of silks
for his wife, and caps for his daughters, we returned to Smyrna, where I
found H.M.S. _Cyrene_, Captn. Grace, and soon after arrived
Clifford in the _Euryalus_, who most kindly gave me an opportunity
of seeing a great deal of other countries by an order to visit the coast
of Syria, &c. &c.

'Oct. 24, 1825.--We passed thro' the Straits of Scio, and on the 25th
anchored at Scala Nova. I shall not trouble you with nautical details,
as all my remarks, bearings, soundings, &c., which I have carefully
taken in this voyage I keep in a distinct remark-book. It is a small
town, governed by an Aga, situated on an elevated promontory, with a
small island and fort off the point, bad shelter for a winter anchorage.
Scala Nova had much interest to me, as I was completely able to
appreciate the conduct of the Captain Pacha with regard to his pitiful
attempt on the island of Samos, which is distant about twenty miles.
This Pacha had 100,000 men at Scala Nova, with a sufficient number of
boats and transports to convey them, and about eighty sail of men of war
to protect them. Yet he made the attempt to land 3000 men, which I
myself was a witness, and they nearly all perished by the musketry of
the Greeks. No further attempt was made on the island, the fleet remains
to the Northward of Samos, under sail for fourteen days, (fine weather)
the Greeks thirty-five sail of small vessels and fireships in the little
Bogaz, which separates the island from the main. At length the fleet
sail for Mytilene. The troops at Scala Nova know not what to think, no
provisions, no water, 25,000 die of famine, the rest in a most pitiable
condition, receive orders to return to their homes, massacre, pillage,
and plunder the whole way back. Nevertheless, the Turks contrived to
lose two small frigates by the fireships of the Greeks. The conduct of
the Pacha, and his disgraceful mode of entering Constantinople with
about fifty sail of small Greek Boats for the occasion, with a Greek
hanging at each mast head, you might have seen from the public prints.
My business with the Governor of Scala Nova being settled (having
obliged him to release an Ionian Vessel one of his cruizers had
captured), Ephesus three hours distant became the next object. Little is
now left of this once celebrated city, and the site of Diana's huge
temple I think is not to be found. One splendid relic still remains. A
part of a fluted Corinthian column, of Parian marble, about 111 feet
long, broken; the remainder is gone; but from the diameter, the block
forming that part could not have been less than fifty feet; a part also
of a huge cornice which was immediately over this column remains, of
marble also, weighing about 15 tons. The carved work on the capital and
cornice is as fresh as the day the artist finished it, tho' most likely
above 2000 yrs. old. Ephesus is thought by many to have been latterly
destroyed by an earthquake, and this small relic certainly tends to
prove the assertion. On examining this column carefully, I found that
the fluting, about half way down, was finished and polished, and a part
in the rough. The ancients always finished and polished, after the
column was erect. Certainly, some sudden accident must have occurred to
have prevented the artist from completing so fine a piece of work, and
the manner in which it is broken leads me to suppose an earthquake,
without doubt, to have been the cause of the abrupt departure of the
chisel from its occupation.

'Leaving Scala Nova, we sailed thro' the little Bogaz, by Patmos when we
fell in with some Greek cruizers, on the look out for the Egyptian fleet
under Ibrahim Pacha, whom we found at Bodrum (?) where we next anchored.
Nothing whatever of antient Halicarnassus, or the wonder of the world,
here remains! Not a trace, not a vestige! One tower more modern, the
base of which appears Roman with a Turkish superstructure, and one block
of granite on which is an inscription stating that Caesar mounted his
horse from this stone: I would have carried this relic away, but Mr.
Arbro, Premier Interprete et Lieutenant a son Altesse Ibrahim Pacha,
informed me that he had laid hands on it. Here I no sooner anchored than
a number of Maltese captains of merchant vessels, in the employ of the
Viceroy of Egypt, came on board to beg my interference with the Pacha as
to some grievance they had suffered. I was quite determined I would have
nothing to do with these blackguards in the Turkish service; but, on
going on shore I could not help feeling immensely enraged at seeing
upwards of twenty large Red Ensigns (English), flying on his fleet of
Transports, loaded with Turkish soldiers going to carry them to the
Morea! I presume the British subject is free to trade as he pleases but,
at the same time, that he must take the consequence of his speculations.
Whether this large national flag was to be displayed at sea, in a
rencontre with the Greek fleet, became a question with me? Whether our
ensign was to be borne by vessels actually engaging Greek ships, was
also a question I asked myself. And the reply instantly was, "_No_,
it cannot be neutrality." I determined to take the ensigns from them
which was done, and having cut the Unions out I gave them back, which I
have since been sorry for. In short, I should have taken all the vessels
as they were all sailing under false papers, or have taken the flags
away altogether and have considered them as they really were, Turkish
transports. But I felt it a very delicate affair as Ibrahim Pacha, when
I waited on him, declared, that I should be the means of his losing his
expedition, and that he trembled for the consequences. He had previously
sent his Secretary on board me, to try and talk me over to give back the
flags. But it would not do, I saw thro' the whole thing. The fact was,
these mercenaries employed in the Egyptian service had refused to
proceed any further, their contract having expired. He having exhausted
five months in reaching Bodrum (?) from Alexandria wished to throw the
whole of the revolt of the Maltese on me, as having taken their colors;
they declaring that they could not go to sea in safety under any other
flag. He wished to be able to use this pretext to his father, the
Viceroy. After about four hours' conversation we parted as we begun, I
would not return the colors. We parted however the following day better
friends, the revolted vessels were moored in a line before the loyal
ones so that those who were willing could not go to sea. He sent for me,
and begged me to speak to the Maltese which I did, and desired them to
move their ships to let the other Transports pass out. What he said to
the Viceroy of Egypt I know not, but be that as it may the old man was
very civil afterwards to me in Egypt. I daresay you will think me a
great fool for having troubled my head in this affair at all; but
really, whether I am right or wrong, I could not bear to see the flag
under the Turk, and the vessels bearing it conveying troops to the
conquest of the Morea. Much as I dislike the Greek character, yet I love
the cause.

'I was not sorry to get clear of Ibrahim and his expedition, as I
inevitably saw difficulties would increase and that from the situation
of the British subjects violence might be resorted to by the Turk, and
that my presence only added fuel to the fire. For while I was there the
Maltese grew more and more impudent. However, all since has ended well.
The Maltese have been honorably paid off by the Viceroy of Egypt.

'Passing between Stanco(?) and the main on the 2nd of Novr. we anchored
in the Harbour of Marmorico (?), certainly the finest in the
Mediterranean. Here we remained in consequence of bad weather, but we
managed to wood and water. After leaving this port I visited Rhodes, so
famous an island requires me to give some description. Keeping the Brig
boxing about between the island and the main, I made my visits leaving
her early in the morning, she standing in the evening to pick me up. The
Port here I by no means considered safe for the _Alacrity_. Small
merchant vessels do go into the Port, and often pay for their temerity
by being totally wrecked. Here you see the remains of what the island
was, with some of the Knights, but nothing more ancient except the
remains of a temple to Apollo. The works and fortifications are very
like Malta on a diminished scale, and the great Street of the Knights
with their arms and devices over each door. To see a turban'd head
sticking out of the window is a provoking proof of the triumph of the
Mussulman over these deserted Christian Knights.

'January 28th, 1826.--I am just anchored in the Quarantine Harbour at
Malta; I find the packet for England on the point of sailing so I cannot
finish my letter, but I think it already too long. In my next I shall
take up my proceedings from Rhodes, going into Cyprus, Scandaroon,
Beirut, Tyre, Sidon, St. Jean D'Arc, Deir-il-Kamr in the Mountains of
Lebanon, Lady Hester Stanhope with whom I stayed one week, Alexandria,
Cairo, &c. and back to Malta after a cruize of eight Months.

'I must now finish with a little Turkish politics. The whole arrangement
of the Greek War is put into the hands of the Viceroy of Egypt. The
Captain Pacha does not go afloat this year but is I fancy in great
disgrace. The Constantinople and Egyptian fleets are to be combined
under Ibrahim Pacha, who is now at Marmorico, waiting for reinforcements
to go to the Morea. I fancy the divided Councils of the Greeks now gives
a fine opportunity of success. Colcotronis has secretly sided with
Mehemet Ali, and it is supposed that Albania is bought with Turkish
gold. The Greeks are quite capable of this. The only way in which the
Turk will do anything in the Morea is by corrupting the Greeks: if it is
to be a contest, I prophesy the Egyptian army _will never return_.
The conduct of the French to the Turks has been most decided. The King
of France wrote to the Viceroy of Egypt, complimenting him on his
genius, and wishing him all possible success. The bearer of this letter
was General Boyer who has come out to discipline the Turkish army, has
assumed the Turkish dress, being installed in his command with the title
and allowance of a Bey and a salary of 10,000 Dollars per annum. He
brought out also two most beautifully manufactured carpets, and 500
stand of arms and accoutrements complete, as a present from the King to
the Viceroy. The Turks of the country do not know what to make of this
gracious like conduct, but they say he has formed an alliance with
France either to stop, at any time they wish, our overland intercourse
with India, or to strengthen himself so that he may be better able to
shake off the Turkish yoke of Istamboul. His views are certainly most
ambitious; but as yet have not sufficiently developed themselves for
anyone, I think, decidedly to form an opinion.

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