A Little Journey to Puerto Rico by Marian M. George
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Marian M. George >> A Little Journey to Puerto Rico
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_THE PLAN BOOK SERIES_
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO
for intermediate and upper grades
BY MARIAN M. GEORGE
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO
Do you know what people mean when they speak of "Our New Possessions"?
What are they? Where are they? Why are men, in the streets, in the
shops, everywhere, talking about them? Why are the newspapers full of
articles in regard to them? Why are our lawmakers at the capital
devoting so much time and attention to them? Can you tell?
Some of these things you can easily ascertain for yourselves. Others we
will speak of here.
The new territory which has lately come into the possession of the
United States, consists of the islands of Puerto Rico, Hawaii and the
Philippines. Cuba is not included in this list; it is soon to be an
independent country.
Since Puerto Rico and these other islands have come to be parts of the
United States, everyone is anxious to learn something more of them.
The best way to learn the geography of a country and the customs of the
people is to visit the country and see with your own eyes.
That would be a difficult thing for most of us. The next best way is to
make the journey in imagination, and that all of us can do.
The island nearest us is Puerto Rico, the most eastern island of the
Greater Antilles. Let us visit that first and the other islands later
on.
We must find out something of the climate, however, before we start on
this journey. This may not be the right season of the year to go. We
must know, too, what kind of clothing to take with us.
In order to plan our route wisely, we must know something of the
geography of the island. We should also know the past history of Puerto
Rico, in order to understand the customs of the people and the
conditions that exist there.
* * * * *
LOCATION, SIZE, SURFACE.
If you will find a map of the West Indies in your atlas or geography,
you will also find Puerto Rico. It is one of the four Greater Antilles
Islands, and lies east of Haiti and farthest out in the Atlantic Ocean.
It is over four hundred miles from the east coast of Cuba, one thousand
miles from Havana, and about one thousand four hundred and fifty miles
from New York.
In size it is the smallest of the group. Its area is about three
thousand five hundred and fifty square miles. Its average length is
about ninety-five miles; its average breadth about thirty-five miles.
In shape it resembles the State of Connecticut, though it is only
three-fourths the size of that State.
[Illustration: THE ISLAND OF PUERTO RICO.]
Puerto Rico, in English, means Rich Harbor. But Puerto Rico is not rich
in harbors. There are not more than six good harbors, but it has less
than three hundred and fifty miles of coast line.
The surface of Puerto Rico is mountainous. A range of hills traverses
the island from east to west. The hills are low and their sides are
covered with vegetation. The hills are not rocky and barren, but are
cultivated to their very tops.
[Illustration: AN AFTERNOON SIESTA.]
The lower valleys are rich pasture lands or cultivated plantations. The
knolls have orchards of cocoanuts and other trees. Coffee, protected by
the shade of other trees, grows to the summits of the green hills. The
ground is covered everywhere with a thick carpeting of grass.
The soil is remarkably fertile. This is due partly to the fine climate,
partly to abundant moisture. The island has many fast flowing rivers.
There are over twelve hundred of these. In the mountains are numerous
springs and water falls, but these are hidden by the overhanging giant
ferns and plants.
* * * * *
BRIEF HISTORY OF PUERTO RICO.
Puerto Rico was discovered by Christopher Columbus November 17, 1493. He
made a landing at a bay, where he found springs of pure water, which was
much needed on his ships. This place he named Aguadilla, which means
"the watering place."
[Illustration: PONCE DE LEON.]
In 1508 Ponce de Leon, a Spanish navigator, visited the island, and was
much pleased with its beautiful scenery and with the hospitality of the
natives. A year or two later he returned, and founded the town of
Caparra. In 1509 he founded the city of San Juan on the island that
guards the entrance on the east.
When Ponce de Leon came to the island, he found it inhabited by a happy,
harmless people who received him with delight. They brought gifts to
him, and showed him and his soldiers gold, which was found in the river
beds.
The kindness of the natives was rewarded by cruelty on the part of the
Spaniards. They were ruthlessly murdered or reduced to slavery, and
compelled to work in the mines. A revolution followed in which the
greater number of the natives were killed.
The severe work required of those remaining so shortened their lives
that very soon all had disappeared. Not a descendant of this race is now
living, but many curious and interesting relics, left by them, may be
found.
One of these is a stone collar, shaped like a horse collar, and
skillfully carved. This was placed upon the breast of the native after
his death, and was supposed to keep him from harm.
Ponce de Leon built for himself a castle on the point of land above the
mouth of the harbor of San Juan, and here he lived until he sailed on
the voyage which resulted in the discovery of Florida.
After his departure, Puerto Rico was left alone for a long time. After
some years, Spain sent peasants to colonize the island, and slaves were
introduced to cultivate the plantations.
In 1870 the island was made a province of Spain, instead of a colony. In
1873 slavery was abolished.
Puerto Rico came into the possession of the United States as the result
of the recent war with Spain. It was ceded to the United States Sept. 6,
1898.
Gen. George R. Davis is now Military Governor of the island. The form of
government for Puerto Rico has not yet been decided upon. It is one of
the problems that Congress is now working out.
* * * * *
CLIMATE--PERPETUAL JUNE.
Puerto Rico is a very beautiful island. Its climate and scenery attract
many visitors, and erelong it will be a popular winter resort for
people from many countries.
It has been called the land of perpetual June. Flowers bloom and plants
and trees yield fruit the year round. There is no winter; but during
the season which is our winter, their skies are beautifully clear and
blue.
The air is neither dry nor moist, but perfect. The nights are always
cool, and the trade winds keep the hottest days from being unpleasant.
The average temperature is only 80 deg.. It is the coolest and the
healthiest place in the West Indies.
[Illustration: GATHERING COFFEE IN PUERTO RICO.]
There are two seasons, the rainy and the dry. The rainy season lasts
from July to December; the dry, from January to June. From November to
June the climate is more than usually delightful and healthful. In the
summer months it is somewhat warm, and the heat and dampness are
oppressive in August and September.
In September and October the rain comes in torrents, but it rains in the
mountains almost every day in the year. The daily showers of the rainy
season usually come late in the afternoon, but the sky clears up with
the setting sun.
The people pay little attention to drainage or to securing a supply of
good water. As a result, fevers are common during the summer months
among the people who live in crowded quarters in the city or in the
marshes.
Hurricanes occasionally occur between the months of July and October.
These are sometimes accompanied by earthquake shocks. People may be
injured or killed and their homes destroyed during these violent storms.
Puerto Rico, however, is freer from them than other islands of the West
Indies.
A HURRICANE.
It is easy to tell when a hurricane is approaching. The wind dies away
and a deathly stillness falls over everything. Not a breath of air
moves. The leaves droop on the trees and the heat almost smothers one.
The sky becomes copper-colored, and tints everything with a ghastly hue.
The cattle and other animals seem to know that danger is near, and rush
about in a terrified way.
Far out in the ocean the water is calm and smooth; but near the shore
the waves rush furiously upon the beach with a mighty roar.
By and by the wind begins to rise, just a little; first from one
direction, and then from another. This is a sign that the storm is near
at hand. Very soon a fearful roar is heard, and all at once the
hurricane descends upon the island.
The work of destruction begins. Trees are uprooted, growing crops are
laid waste, and houses are torn down and scattered in every direction.
Sometimes whole villages are destroyed and many people killed or
wounded.
When the barometer tells of the approach of a storm, the people prepare
for it. They hunt some hole, cave, or cellar into which to crawl. They
take with them, when there is time to do so, a supply of cane juice and
food, to last until the storm subsides.
"The people guard as much as possible from the hurricanes by building
their houses of stone with massive walls. They provide strong bars for
doors and windows. When the barometer gives notice of the approach of a
storm, these bars are brought out, and everything is at once made fast.
"Doors and window-shutters are closed, barred, and double locked, and
the town looks as if it were deserted by all human beings. The state of
suspense, while the hurricane lasts, is dreadful, for no one knows when
the house may fall and bury all beneath its ruins.
"Add to this the howling of the blasts, the crash of falling trees, the
piercing cries for help from the wounded and dying, and one may faintly
picture the terrible scene. To venture out is almost certain death, the
air is so filled with flying missiles, such as boards, bricks, tiles,
stones, and branches of trees."
It is indeed fortunate that the people of Puerto Rico are largely free
from these desolating storms. Some idea of their power for destruction
may be gathered from the pictures in our papers of Galveston, Texas,
after the recent hurricane there.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP.
The best time for us to visit Puerto Rico, then, is after the hurricane
season, in the winter. January, February, and March are the favorite
months of travelers.
But if we wish to celebrate the four hundred and seventh anniversary of
the discovery of the island, we must go in November. It was the 17th day
of this month that Columbus first visited Puerto Rico.
We will need to take our thinnest clothing for use on the island, but we
should have light wraps for the cool evenings.
We should also go well provided with umbrellas, rubber overshoes, and
rain coats, if we do not wish to spend many afternoons indoors.
Now the best way to reach Puerto Rico is not, as many people think, from
Cuba. San Juan, the capital, is nearly as far from Havana as from New
York.
We will take the steamer from New York that goes directly to San Juan.
If the weather is good, we may expect to make the voyage in four days.
* * * * *
THE VOYAGE.
What a busy crowd it is through which we pass to the New York wharf!
Dozens of large ships and hundreds of small vessels and sailboats crowd
the harbor.
There is a large steamer just going out. It is loaded with hardware,
kerosene, pine lumber, and codfish, and is probably bound for South
America.
Crowds of people are going on deck with departing friends. Many of the
friends have brought or sent flowers and steamer-letters, to be enjoyed
by the travelers, during the voyage.
[Illustration: OUR OCEAN STEAMER.]
Now the bell sounds a warning to our visitors to say good-by. They leave
the boat, and soon we are off. As we leave the harbor we listen to the
band playing "America" and the "Star Spangled Banner," and take the last
glimpse of our native land which we shall have for a month.
It is not far from the dinner hour, so we now visit the dining-room for
the purpose of securing our place at the table from the head steward.
We next secure a steamer chair, and have the deck steward place it in a
comfortable, sheltered place on deck. It is well, before long, to visit
our staterooms, and put our clothes and other belongings in order for
the trip.
By the time this is done dinner is announced. Somehow we do not feel
very hungry. The vessel rolls about so that we begin to feel dizzy. We
think we would rather go to bed, and we try to do so, but find it rather
difficult.
The stewardess comes in just then, and asks if she may help us. With her
assistance we climb into our berths. Rock, rock, rock! If the boat would
only be quiet one moment! We are very seasick by this time, and feel as
if we never wish to eat another meal. The motion of the boat lulls us to
sleep by and by, and the next thing we know it is morning.
The air in our stateroom seems close and "stuffy," so we gladly leave it
and go on deck, where we remain for the rest of the day. The steward
serves our meals to us here, and we spend the time in our steamer
chairs, watching the white-capped waves, the sea gulls over us, and the
porpoises following the boat for food.
After the first day out we sail into smoother seas and warmer weather.
We throw aside our wraps and put on lighter clothing. We also don broad
shade-hats to protect our eyes from the glare of the light upon the
water.
A favorable wind bears us southward to the tropical sea, which many
people consider among the most beautiful things in the world.
The water of the Bahama sea is wonderful because of its clearness and
its deep purple color. A cloud shadow changes the purple into emerald.
Looking down into the clear depths, we see the dolphins as distinctly
as the birds overhead. Shoals of flying fish dart out of the water,
their fins serving as sails for an instant; then they drop back again.
Many other new and interesting objects and scenes add to the pleasure of
our voyage from the great northern metropolis to the capital of the
island in the southern seas. These we can not tell about now.
* * * * *
SAN JUAN.
While we are learning of the plant and animal life about and beneath us,
the good ship bears us swiftly on, and all too soon we are at our
journey's end.
We seem hardly to have left the shadow of Liberty's towering torch in
New York harbor, before the gray walls of Morro Castle appear above the
horizon. Far out at sea, this massive stone fort with its beacon light
attracts our attention.
Across the harbor entrance the white-capped waves rush furiously over
each other in a mad race toward the shore. Passing through this narrow
channel, the ship glides into the harbor under the guns of the two
picturesque old forts which guard it, and we get our first glimpse of
San Juan.
[Illustration: STATUE OF LIBERTY--NEW YORK HARBOR.]
Our first view of this beautiful old city fills us with anticipations
of pleasure. We find that the ground upon which the city lies slopes
upward from the calm, broad harbor to the forts that guard its heights.
Here and there a tall palm-tree rears its graceful head above the tops
of the gayly colored buildings that glisten in the sunlight.
Our guide tells us that San Juan is one of the most perfectly fortified
cities in the world. It is easy to believe this when, from the ocean and
from the bay, we see the massive walls and battlements of the forts that
guard the north and east.
We learn that they are cut from the solid rock which crowns the crest of
the narrow peninsula. The steep walls of the vast castle of San
Cristobal overshadow the whole city.
The city is built on an island, connected with the mainland by a bridge.
It is surrounded by a high, thick stone wall: that is, it was once upon
a time; but the city is now extended far beyond the walls. Inside is the
city proper, or old San Juan. Outside are the more modern buildings and
the suburbs.
San Juan is not only the seat of government, but it is considered the
first city of Puerto Rico in interest and in importance. Ponce, however,
disputes this claim. It has the best harbor, and the best public
buildings, churches and schools on the island.
The palace of the governor-general and the headquarters of the American
administration we find located in San Juan.
Over thirty thousand people make their homes in this city, and a goodly
number of them we find at the shore to meet our vessel. They do not wait
for us to land. They come out to meet us.
Dusky natives in landing boats are soon alongside, and we learn to our
surprise that our ship does not go to the dock. We are to go ashore in
these small awning-covered boats. This is a new experience for us, but
it is an old Spanish custom.
[Illustration: LANDING FROM OUR STEAMER AT SAN JUAN.]
The steward of the ship tells us that we may retain our rooms and use
the ship as a hotel during the stay in port, going ashore for
sight-seeing when we like.
We have heard that the hotels in San Juan are very poor; but of course
we wish to see for ourselves what they are like, and so we decide to
give them a trial.
We are in no hurry to seek the hotels, however. The streets of San Juan
present so many novel sights to our wandering eyes that we wish to look
about first.
STREET SCENES.
We have been told that we could walk all over the town in an hour, and
we resolve to try it.
[Illustration: A STREET IN SAN JUAN.]
The streets are narrow and dark, but well paved and clean. They ought to
be clean, for they are swept by hand every day. The sidewalks are so
narrow that only two of us can walk abreast, so we take to the road.
This is used as a highway for people as well as vehicles.
Naked little children of all ages and colors play about the streets and
on the sidewalks. Colored men and women, smoking black cigars, saunter
idly about. Street venders carrying their stores upon their heads or
backs, or in large panniers upon tiny ponies, fill the air with cries
announcing their wares.
Judging from the number of the venders of drinks we see on the streets,
every one in San Juan is thirsty. We are, at any rate, and very
delicious we find their ices and sherbets, their iced orange, lemon and
strawberry waters, iced cherries, milk, coffee and chocolate.
[Illustration: DULCE (SWEETMEAT) SELLERS IN PUERTO RICO.]
Fruit sellers under the arcades and in stalls tempt us with their
attractive wares; but the fruits are new and strange to us, and we
hesitate about buying.
The hack drivers are asleep on closed carriages at the hack stand. Long
lines of clumsy carts, with high wheels, rumble over the cobblestone
pavements with a dreadful clatter.
In the open doorways of shops we see men and women manufacturing
articles for sale. Some are making chairs, some shoes, some jewelry,
some boxes, and, in one place, we see a number of workmen making
coffins.
We are interested in observing that flags of different colors are used
as signs, and that the walls are painted with brilliant pictures. In the
quarter near the sea, the brandy stores, built of reeds, have round them
swarms of beggars of every degree.
The laundry shop we find just outside the city, beside a large creek. A
laundry not built by hands! Here women stand knee-deep in the stream,
with the hot sun beating down upon their heads. They are doing their
laundry work. The clothes are cleaned by soaking them in water and
pounding them with stones. We wonder if there are any buttons left on
the clothes after this treatment, and resolve not to trust our clothes
to this laundry.
We note outside the city wall a broad concrete walk; along this walk
seats, trees, and rude statues; and between the walk and the wall an
ornamental garden.
Having now taken a general stroll, we will rest up preparatory to our
visit to the points of special interest.
POINTS OF INTEREST IN SAN JUAN.
We are now ready to visit the places of unusual interest about the
capital city. The most noted buildings are the governor's palace, the
cathedral, the city hall, the arsenal, the buildings used as quarters
for the troops, the forts, the castles of Morro and San Cristobal, the
house which Ponce de Leon built, the palace of the bishop, the theater,
the hospital, the orphan asylum, the poorhouse, the jail, the library,
and the colleges.
In the heart of the town, facing the City Hall, the guide shows us a
public plaza; and under the frowning walls of San Cristobal, on the
outskirts of the city, he points out another. These plazas are flat,
open spaces, paved with cement and surrounded by rows of shade trees.
In the plaza of Columbus, on the outskirts of the city, is a handsome
statue of Columbus. Facing this plaza is the grand theater.
In the cool of the evening, the people gather in these plazas, and
listen to the music of the band.
One of the most interesting buildings in the, city to us is the "White
House of Ponce de Leon." It is still standing where it looked northward
over the sea so long ago.
On the side toward the bay is an old wall, and beyond this is a
beautiful garden and rows of palm trees. From the windows we get a fine
view of the bay.
The people of San Juan have honored its founder with a statue, which
stands in the center of one of its plazas.
His remains are preserved in a leaden box in the church of Santo
Domingo.
We find the famous Morro Castle to be a small military town in itself,
with houses, chapel, barracks, dungeons, water tanks, warehouses, and
also a light tower, a signal station, and a light-saving station.
This ancient fort is the beginning of the wall which surrounds the city.
THE MARKET PLACE.
Look at these people coming in from the country! Our guide says they are
going to the market place. Let us follow them and see what a Puerto
Rican market place is.
Here it is, situated near the ocean. The court is formed with stones,
and it contains booths for fruits, vegetables, and produce of all kinds.
[Illustration: GOING TO MARKET.]
Dear me! what a busy, noisy place! People from every race and nation
seem to be gathered here. Big people, little people, babies, roosters,
dogs, donkeys, horses! What talking, shouting, laughing, crying,
crowing, barking, and braying!
Men are smoking, lounging about, and bragging about their game-cocks;
women are making small purchases and gossiping with neighbors; babies
are tumbling about on the ground, devouring bits of fruit that come in
their way: but all are good-natured.
Each market man or woman has a place assigned, and within this space or
in a booth are piled high heaps of fruits and vegetables. And such
fruits and vegetables we never in our lives beheld or even dreamed of!
Heaps and heaps of golden, luscious oranges are offered us by the
thousand, or two for a penny. Bananas are sold five for a cent, or a
bunch of a hundred bananas for twenty-five cents. Think of it! In New
York it would cost us three to five dollars.
There are ever and ever so many kinds of fruits of which we do not even
know the name. But we make a list of those whose names we do know, and
here they are: oranges, bananas, plantains, limes, lemons, cocoanuts,
bread-fruit, bread nuts, pomegranates, dates, figs, pawpaws, the
tamarind, sugar apple, grosella, mammee, guava, granadilla, naseberry,
alligator pears, shaddocks, and Indian plums.
Could you find so many in a New York, New Orleans, Chicago, or San
Francisco market, do you think?
Then here are the vegetables. They would make even a longer list, but we
note a few of those with whose names and forms we are acquainted: yams,
sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, carrots, turnips, celery, beets, egg
plant, radishes, peas, beans, tomatoes, cabbage, pumpkins, cantaloupes,
watermelons, squashes, peppers, cassava, yantias, and okra.
[Illustration: A POULTRY DEALER.]
The people in the market, seeing that we are Americans, try to charge
us many times what each article is worth. If we travel very far, we will
find that this is a custom of the people in many countries. They think
all Americans are rich.
[Illustration: THE MARKET PLACE AT PONCE, PUERTO RICO.]
Now this is a great mistake, and so we decline very firmly to buy
anything at all. This offends the market people. They wish us to make
them an offer.
They offer us their fruits for half the first price. Again we refuse. A
fourth of the original price. We shake our heads.
Our guide now offers to make our purchases for us, and does so for a
very small sum. And the market people and venders are quite satisfied.
It is all they expected.
* * * * *
HOMES AND HOME LIFE.
A narrow, shaded street tempts us to leave the noisy, business part of
the town and the throng that crowds these streets and plazas, and stray
into the suburbs.
No matter which way we turn, some new picture meets our eyes.
Wandering along, we peep into doorways, courtyards and pleasant patios.
Some of the houses have crosses upon their summits, to show the devotion
of the inmates to their religion.