Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa by Mungo Park

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I proceeded with great caution; surveying each bush, and frequently
listening and looking behind me for the Moorish horsemen, until I was
about a mile from the town, when I was surprised to find myself in the
neighbourhood of a Korree, belonging to the Moors. The shepherds followed
me for about a mile, hooting and throwing stones after me: and when I was
out of their reach, and had began to indulge the pleasing hopes of
escaping, I was again greatly alarmed to hear somebody holla behind me;
and looking back, I saw three Moors on horseback, coming after me at full
speed, whooping and brandishing their double-barrelled guns. I knew it
was in vain to think of escaping, and therefore turned back and met them;
when two of them caught hold of my bridle, one on each side, and the
third, presenting his musket, told me I must go back to Ali.

When the human mind has for sometime been fluctuating between hope and
despair, tortured with anxiety, and hurried from one extreme to another,
it affords a sort of gloomy relief to know the worst that can possibly
happen; such was my situation. An indifference about life and all its
enjoyments had completely benumbed my faculties, and I rode back with the
Moors with apparent unconcern. But a change took place much sooner than I
had any reason to expect. In passing through some thick bushes, one of
the Moors ordered me to untie my bundle, and show them the contents.
Having examined the different articles, they found nothing worth taking
except my cloak, which they considered as a very valuable acquisition,
and one of them pulling it from me, wrapped it about himself. This cloak
had been of great use to me; it served to cover me from the rains in the
day, and to protect me from the musketoes in the night: I therefore
earnestly begged him to return it, and followed him some little way to
obtain it; but without paying any attention to my request, he and one of
his companions rode off with their prize. When I attempted to follow
them, the third, who had remained with me, struck my horse over the head,
and presenting his musket, told me I should proceed no further.

I now perceived that these men had not been sent by any authority to
apprehend me, but had pursued me solely in the view to rob and plunder
me. Turning my horse's head therefore once more towards the east, and
observing the Moor follow the track of his confederates, I congratulated
myself on having escaped with my life, though in great distress, from
such a horde of barbarians.

I was no sooner out of sight of the Moor, than I struck into the woods,
to prevent being pursued, and kept pushing on, with all possible speed,
until I found myself near some high rocks, which I remembered to have
seen in my former route from Queira to Deena; and, directing my course a
little to the northward, I fortunately fell in with the path.

CHAPTER XIV.

_The Author feels great joy at his deliverance, and proceeds through the
wilderness; but finds his situation very deplorable.--Suffers greatly
from thirst, and faints on the sand--Recovers, and makes another effort
to push forward.--Is providentially relieved by a fall of rain.--Arrives
at a Foulah village, where he is refused relief by the Dooty, but obtains
food from a poor woman.--Continues his journey through the wilderness,
and the next day lights on another Foulah village, where he is hospitably
received by one of the shepherds.--Arrives on the third day at a Negro
town called Wawra, tributary to the King of Bambarra._

It is impossible to describe the joy that arose in my mind, when I looked
around and concluded that I was out of danger. I felt like one recovered
from sickness; I breathed freer; I found unusual lightness in my limbs;
even the Desert looked pleasant; and I dreaded nothing so much as falling
in with some wandering parties of Moors, who might convey me back to the
land of thieves and murderers, from which I had just escaped.

I soon became sensible, however, that my situation was very deplorable;
for I had no means of procuring food, nor prospect of finding water.
About ten o'clock, perceiving a herd of goats feeding close to the road,
I took a circuitous route to avoid being seen; and continued travelling
through the wilderness, directing my course, by compass, nearly
east-south-east, in order to reach, as soon as possible, some town or
village of the kingdom of Bambarra.

A little after noon, when the burning heat of the sun was reflected with
double violence from the hot sand, and the distant ridges of the hills,
seen through the ascending vapour, seemed to wave and fluctuate like the
unsettled sea, I became faint with thirst, and climbed a tree in hopes of
seeing distant smoke, or some other appearance of a human habitation; but
in vain, nothing appeared all around but thick underwood and hillocks of
white sand.

About four o'clock, I came suddenly upon a large herd of goats, and,
pulling my horse into a bush, I watched to observe if, the keepers were
Moors or Negroes. In a little time I perceived two Moorish boys, and with
some difficulty persuaded them to approach me. They informed me that the
herd belonged to Ali, and that they were going to Deena, where the water
was more plentiful, and where they intended to stay until the rain had
filled the pools in the Desert. They showed me their empty water-skins,
and told me that they had seen no water in the woods. This account
afforded me but little consolation; however, it was in vain to repine,
and I pushed on as fast as possible, in hopes of reaching some
watering-place in the course of the night. My thirst was by this time
become insufferable; my mouth was parched and inflamed; a sudden dimness
would frequently come over my eyes, with other symptoms of fainting; and
my horse being very much fatigued, I began seriously to apprehend that I
should perish of thirst. To relieve the burning pain in my mouth and
throat, I chewed the leaves of different shrubs, but found them all
bitter, and of no service.

A little before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle rising, I
climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which I cast a
melancholy look over the barren Wilderness, but without discovering the
most distant trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal uniformity of
shrubs and sand every where presented itself, and the horizon was as
level and uninterrupted as that of the sea.

Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the stubble and
brushwood with great avidity; and as I was now too faint to attempt
walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me, I thought it but an
act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it in my power
to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift for himself; in
doing which I was suddenly affected with sickness and giddiness; and
falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of death was fast approaching.
"Here, then, (thought I,) after a short but ineffectual struggle,
terminate all my hopes of being useful in my day and generation; here
must the short span of my life come to an end." I cast (as I believed) a
last look on the surrounding scene, and whilst I reflected on the awful
change that was about to take place, this world with its enjoyments
seemed to vanish from my recollection. Nature, however, at length resumed
its functions; and on recovering my senses, I found myself stretched upon
the sand, with the bridle still in my hand, and the sun just sinking
behind the trees. I now summoned all my resolution, and determined to
make another effort to prolong my existence. And as the evening was
somewhat cool, I resolved to travel as far as my limbs would carry me, in
hopes of reaching (my only resource) a watering-place. With this view, I
put the bridle on my horse, and driving him before me, went slowly along
for about an hour, when I perceived some lightning from the north-east, a
most delightful sight; for it promised rain. The darkness and lighting
increased very rapidly; and in less than an hour I heard the wind roaring
among the bushes. I had already opened my mouth to receive the refreshing
drops which I expected; but I was instantly covered with a cloud of sand,
driven with such force by the wind, as to give a very disagreeable
sensation to my face and arms; and I was obliged to mount my horse, and
stop under a bush, to prevent being suffocated. The sand continued to fly
in amazing quantities for near an hour, after which I again set forward,
and travelled with difficulty until ten o'clock. About this time I was
agreeably surprised by some very vivid flashes of lightning, followed by
a few heavy drops of rain. In a little time the sand ceased to fly, and I
alighted, and spread out all my clean clothes to collect the rain, which
at length I saw would certainly fall. For more than an hour it rained
plentifully, and I quenched my thirst, by wringing and sucking my
clothes.

There being no moon, it was remarkably dark, so that I was obliged to
lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which the lightning
enabled me to observe. In this manner I travelled with tolerable
expedition, until past midnight; when the lightning becoming more
distant, I was under the necessity of groping along, to the no small
danger of my hands and eyes. About two o'clock my horse started at
something, and, looking round, I was not a little surprised to see a
light at a short distance among the trees, and supposing it to be a town,
I groped along the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton, or other
appearances of cultivation, but found none. As I approached, I perceived
a number of other lights in different places, and began to suspect that I
had fallen upon a party of Moors. However, in my present situation, I was
resolved to see who they were, if I could do it with safety. I
accordingly led my horse cautiously towards the light, and heard by the
lowing of the cattle, and the clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, that it
was a watering-place, and most likely belonged to the Moors. Delightful
as the sound of the human voice was to me, I resolved once more to strike
into the woods, and rather run the risk of perishing of hunger, than
trust myself again in their hands; but still being thirsty, and dreading
the approach of the burning day, I thought it prudent to search for the
wells, which I expected to find at no great distance. In this pursuit, I
inadvertently approached so near to one of the tents as to be perceived
by a woman, who immediately screamed out. Two people came running to her
assistance from some of the neighbouring tents, and passed so very near
to me that I thought I was discovered, and hastened again into the woods.

About a mile from this place, I heard a loud and confused noise somewhere
to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy to find it was
the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my ears. I followed
the sound, and at daybreak arrived at some shallow muddy pools, so full
of frogs, that it was difficult to discern the water. The noise they made
frightened my horse, and I was obliged to keep them quiet, by beating the
water with a branch until he had drank. Having here quenched my thirst, I
ascended a tree, and the morning being calm, I soon perceived the smoke
of the watering-place which I had passed in the night; and observed
another pillar of smoke east-south-east, distant 12 or 14 miles. Towards
this I directed my route, and reached the cultivated ground a little
before eleven o'clock where, seeing a number of Negroes at work planting
corn, I inquired the name of the town; and was informed that it was a
Foulah village, belonging to Ali, called Shrilla. I had now some doubts
about entering it; but my horse being very much fatigued, and the day
growing hot, not to mention the pangs of hunger which began to assail me,
I resolved to venture, and accordingly rode up to the Dooty's house,
where I was unfortunately denied admittance, and could not obtain even a
handful of corn either for myself or horse. Turning from this
inhospitable door, I rode slowly out of the town, and perceiving some low
scattered huts without the walls, I directed my route towards them;
knowing that in Africa, as well as in Europe, hospitality does not always
prefer the highest dwellings. At the door of one of these huts, an old
motherly-looking woman sat, spinning cotton; I made signs to her that I
was hungry, and inquired if she had any victuals with her in the hut. She
immediately laid down her distaff, and desired me, in Arabic, to come in.
When I had seated myself upon the floor, she set before me a dish of
kouskous, that had been left the preceding night, of which I made a
tolerable meal; and in return for this kindness I gave her one of my
pocket-handkerchiefs, begging at the same time a little corn for my
horse, which she readily brought me.

Overcome with joy at so unexpected a deliverance, I lifted up my eyes to
heaven, and whilst my heart swelled with gratitude, I returned thanks to
that gracious and bountiful Being, whose power had supported me under so
many dangers, and had now spread for me a table in the Wilderness.

Whilst my horse was feeding the people began to assemble, and one of them
whispered something to my hostess, which very much excited her surprise.
Though I was not well acquainted with the Foulah language, I soon
discovered that some of the men wished to apprehend and carry me back to
Ali, in hopes, I suppose, of receiving a reward. I therefore tied up the
corn; and lest any one should suspect I had ran away from the Moors, I
took a northerly direction, and went cheerfully along, driving my horse
before me, followed by all the boys and girls of the town. When I had
travelled about two miles, and got quit of all my troublesome attendants,
I struck again into the woods, and took shelter under a large tree, where
I found it necessary to rest myself; a bundle of twigs serving me for a
bed, and my saddle for a pillow.

I was awakened about two o'clock by three Foulahs, who, taking me for a
Moor, pointed to the sun, and told me it was time to pray. Without
entering into conversation with them, I saddled my horse and continued my
journey. I travelled over a level, but more fertile country, than I had
seen for some time, until sunset, when, coming to a path that took a
southerly direction, I followed it until midnight, at which time I
arrived at a small pool of rain water, and the wood being open, I
determined to rest by it for the night. Having given my horse the
remainder of the corn, I made my bed as formerly; but the musketoes and
flies from the pool prevented sleep for some time, and I was twice
disturbed in the night by wild beasts, which came very near, and whose
howlings kept the horse in continual terror.

July 4th. At daybreak I pursued my course through woods as formerly; saw
numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and ostriches; but the soil was more
hilly, and not so fertile as I had found it the preceding day. About
eleven o'clock I ascended an eminence, where I climbed a tree, and
discovered, at about eight miles distance, an open part of the country,
with several red spots which I concluded were cultivated land; and
directing my course that way, came to the precincts of a watering-place,
about one o'clock. From the appearance of the place, I judged it to
belong to the Foulahs, and was hopeful that I should meet a better
reception than I had experienced at Shrilla. In this I was not deceived;
for one of the shepherds invited me to come into his tent, and partake of
some dates. This was one of those low Foulah tents in which there is room
just sufficient to sit upright, and in which the family, the furniture,
&c. seem huddled together like so many articles in a chest. When I had
crept upon my hands and knees into this humble habitation, I found that
it contained a woman and three children; who, together with the shepherd
and myself, completely occupied the floor. A dish of boiled corn and
dates was produced, and the master of the family, as is customary in this
part of the country, first tasted it himself, and then desired me to
follow his example. Whilst I was eating, the children kept their eyes
fixed upon me; and no sooner did the shepherd pronounce the word
_Nazaram_, than they began to cry, and their mother crept slowly towards
the door, out of which she sprang like a greyhound, and was instantly
followed by her children, so frightened were they at the very name of a
Christian, that no entreaties could induce them to approach the tent.
Here I purchased some corn for my horse in exchange for some brass
buttons; and having thanked the shepherd for his hospitality, struck
again into the woods. At sunset, I came to a road that took the direction
for Bambarra, and resolved to follow it for the night; but about eight
o'clock, hearing some people coming from the southward, I thought it
prudent to hide myself among some thick bushes near the road. As these
thickets are generally full of wild beasts, I found my situation rather
unpleasant; sitting in the dark, holding my horse by the nose, with both
hands, to prevent him from neighing, and equally afraid of the natives
without and the wild beasts within. My fears, however, were soon
dissipated; for the people, after looking round the thicket, and
perceiving nothing, went away; and I hastened to the more open parts of
the wood, where I pursued my journey E.S.E. until midnight; when the
joyful cry of frogs induced me once more to deviate a little from my
route, in order to quench my thirst. Having accomplished this, from a
large pool of rain water, I sought for an open place, with a single tree
in the midst, under which I made my bed for the night. I was disturbed by
some wolves towards morning, which induced me to set forward a little
before day; and having passed a small village called Wassalita, I came
about ten o'clock (July fifth) to a Negro town called Wawra, which
properly belongs to Kaarta, but was at this time tributary to Mansong,
King of Bambarra.

CHAPTER XV.

_The Author proceeds to Wassiboo.--Is joined by some fugitive Kaartans,
who accompany him in his route through Bambarra.--Discovers the
Niger.--Some account of Sego, the capital of Bambarra.--Mansong the King
refuses to see the Author, but sends him a present.--Great hospitality of
a Negro woman._

Wawra is a small town surrounded with high walls, and inhabited by a
mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs. The inhabitants employ themselves
chiefly in cultivating corn, which they exchange with the Moors for salt.
Here, being in security from the Moors, and very much fatigued, I
resolved to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty welcome from the
Dooty, whose name was Flancharee, I laid myself down upon a bullock's
hide, and slept soundly for about two hours. The curiosity of the people
would not allow me to sleep any longer. They had seen my saddle and
bridle, and were assembled in great numbers to learn who I was, and
whence I came. Some were of opinion that I was an Arab; others insisted
that I was some Moorish Sultan; and they continued to debate the matter
with such warmth, that the noise awoke me. The Dooty (who had formerly
been at Gambia) at last interposed in my behalf, and assured them that I
was certainly a white man; but he was convinced, from my appearance, that
I was a very poor one.

In the course of the day, several women, hearing that I was going to
Sego, came and begged me to inquire of Mansong, the king, what was become
of their children. One woman, in particular, told me that her son's name
was Mamadee; that he was no Heathen, but prayed to God morning and
evening, and had been taken from her about three years ago, by Mansong's
army; since which she had never heard of him. She said, she often dreamed
about him; and begged me, if I should see him, either in Bambarra, or in
my own country, to tell him that his mother and sister were still alive.
In the afternoon, the Dooty examined the contents of the leather bag, in
which I had packed up my clothes; but finding nothing that was worth
taking, he returned it, and told me to depart in the morning.

July 6th. It rained very much in the night, and at daylight I departed,
in company with a Negro, who was going to a town called Dingyee for corn:
but we had not proceeded above a mile, before the ass upon which he rode
kicked him off, and he returned, leaving me to prosecute the journey by
myself.

I reached Dingyee about noon; but the Dooty and most of the inhabitants
had gone into the fields to cultivate corn. An old Foulah, observing me
wandering about the town, desired me to come to his hut, where I was well
entertained; and the Dooty, when he returned, sent me some victuals for
myself, and corn for my horse.

July 7th. In the morning, when I was about to depart, my landlord, with a
great deal of diffidence, begged me to give him a lock of my hair. He had
been told, he said, that white men's hair made a saphie that would give
to the possessor all the knowledge of white men. I had never before heard
of so simple a mode of education, but instantly complied with the
request; and my landlord's thirst for learning was such, that, with
cutting and pulling, he cropped one side of my head pretty closely; and
would have done the same with the other, had I not signified my
disapprobation by putting on my hat, and assuring him, that I wished to
reserve some of this precious merchandize for a future occasion.

I reached a small town called Wassiboo, about twelve o'clock, where I was
obliged to stop until an opportunity should offer of procuring a guide to
Satile, which is distant a very long day's journey, through woods without
any beaten path. I accordingly took up my residence at the Dooty's house,
where I staid four days; during which time I amused myself by going to
the fields with the family to plant corn. Cultivation is carried on here
on a very extensive scale; and, as the natives themselves express it,
"hunger is never known." In cultivating the soil, the men and women work
together. They use a large sharp hoe, much superior to that used in
Gambia; but they are obliged, for fear of the Moors, to carry their arms
with them to the field. The master, with the handle of his spear, marks
the field into regular plats, one of which is assigned to every three
slaves.

On the evening of the 11th, eight of the fugitive Kaartans arrived at
Wassiboo.--They had found it impossible to live under the tyrannical
government of the Moors, and were now going to transfer their allegiance
to the King of Bambarra. They offered to take me along with them as far
as Satile; and I accepted the offer.

July 12th. At daybreak we set out, and travelled with uncommon expedition
until sunset: we stopped only twice in the course of the day; once at a
watering-place in the woods, and another time at the ruins of a town
formerly belonging to Daisy, called _Illa Compe_, (the corn town). When
we arrived in the neighbourhood of Satile, the people who were employed
in the corn fields, seeing so many horsemen, took us for a party of
Moors, and ran screaming away from us. The whole town was instantly
alarmed, the slaves were seen, in every direction, driving the cattle and
horses towards the town. It was in vain that one of our company galloped
up to undeceive them: it only frightened them the more; and when we
arrived at the town, we found the gates shut, and the people all under
arms. After a long parley, we were permitted to enter and, as there was
every appearance of a heavy tornado, the Dooty allowed us to sleep in his
saloon, and gave us each a bullock's hide for a bed.

July 13th. Early in the morning we again set forward. The roads were wet
and slippery, but the country was very beautiful, abounding with
rivulets, which were increased by the rain into rapid streams. About ten
o'clock we came to the ruins of a village, which had been destroyed by
war about six months before; and in order to prevent any town from being
built there in future, the large Bentang tree, under which the natives
spent the day, had been burnt down; the wells filled up; and every thing
that could make the spot desirable completely destroyed.

About noon, my horse was so much fatigued that I could not keep up with
my companions; I therefore dismounted, and desired them to ride on,
telling them, that I would follow as soon as my horse had rested a
little. But I found them unwilling to leave me; the lions, they said,
were very numerous in those parts, and though they might not so readily
attack a body of people, they would soon find out an individual. It was
therefore agreed that one of the company should stay with me, to assist
in driving my horse, while the others passed on to Galloo, to procure
lodgings, and collect grass for the horses before night. Accompanied by
this worthy Negro, I drove my horse before me until about four o'clock,
when we came in sight of Galloo, a considerable town, standing in a
fertile and beautiful valley, surrounded with high rocks.

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