Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa by Mungo Park

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July 25th. Early in the morning, before the Moors were assembled, I
departed from Sansanding, and slept the ensuing night at a small town
called Sibili; from whence, on the day following, I reached Nyara, a
large town at some distance from the river, where I halted the 27th, to
have my clothes washed, and recruit my horse. The Dooty there has a very
commodious house, flat roofed, and two stories high. He showed me some
gunpowder of his own manufacturing, and pointed out as a great curiosity
a little brown monkey, that was tied to a stake by the door, telling me
that it came from a far distant country, called Kong.

July 28th. I departed from Nyara, and reached Nyamee about noon. This
town is inhabited chiefly by Foulahs, from the kingdom of Masina. The
Dooty (I know not why) would not receive me, but civilly sent his son on
horseback, to conduct me to Modiboo; which, he assured me, was at no
great distance.

We rode nearly in a direct line through the woods; but in general went
forwards with great circumspection. I observed that my guide frequently
stopped, and looked under the bushes. On inquiring the reason of this
caution, he told me that lions were very numerous in that part of the
country, and frequently attacked people travelling through the woods.
While he was speaking, my horse started, and looking round, I observed a
large animal of the cameleopard kind, standing at a little distance. The
neck and fore legs were very long; the head was furnished with two short
black horns, turning backwards; the tail, which reached down to the ham
joint, had a tuft of hair at the end. The animal was of a mouse colour;
and it trotted away from us in a very sluggish manner; moving its head
from side to side, to see if we were pursuing it. Shortly after this, as
we were crossing a large open plain, where there were a few scattered
bushes, my guide, who was a little way before me, wheeled his horse round
in a moment, calling out something in the Foulah language, which I did
not understand. I inquired in Mandingo what he meant; _Wara billi billi_,
a very large lion, said he; and made signs for me to ride away. But my
horse was too much fatigued; so we rode slowly past the bush, from which
the animal had given us the alarm. Not seeing any thing myself, however,
I thought my guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah suddenly put his
hand to his mouth, exclaiming _Soubah an alluhi_ (God preserve us!), and
to my great surprise I then perceived a large red lion, at a short
distance from the bush, with his head couched between his fore paws. I
expected he would instantly spring upon me, and instinctively pulled my
feet from my stirrups to throw myself on the ground, that my horse might
become the victim, rather than myself. But it is probable the lion was
not hungry; for he quietly suffered us to pass, though we were fairly
within his reach. My eyes were so rivetted upon this sovereign of the
beasts, that I found it impossible to remove them, until we were at a
considerable distance. We now took a circuitous route, through some
swampy ground, to avoid any more of these disagreeable rencounters. At
sunset we arrived at Modiboo, a delightful village on the banks of the
Niger, commanding a view of the river for many miles, both to the east
and west. The small green islands, (the peaceful retreat of some
industrious Foulahs, whose cattle are here secure from the depredations
of wild beasts,) and the majestic breadth of the river, which is here
much larger than at Sego, render the situation one of the most enchanting
in the world. Here are caught great plenty of fish, by means of long
cotton nets, which the natives make themselves, and use nearly in the
same manner as nets are used in Europe. I observed the head of a
crocodile lying upon one of the houses, which they told me had been
killed by the shepherds in a swamp near the town. These animals are not
uncommon in the Niger; but I believe they are not oftentimes found
dangerous. They are of little account to the traveller, when compared
with the amazing swarms of musquetoes, which rise from the swamps and
creeks, in such numbers as to harass even the most torpid of the natives;
and as my clothes were now almost worn to rags, I was but ill prepared to
resist their attacks. I usually passed the night without shutting my
eyes, walking backwards and forwards, fanning myself with my hat; their
stings raised numerous blisters on my legs and arms; which, together with
the want of rest, made me very feverish and uneasy.

July 29th. Early in the morning, my landlord observing that I was sickly,
hurried me away; sending a servant with me as a guide to Kea. But though
I was little able to walk, my horse was still less able to carry me; and
about six miles to the east of Modiboo, in crossing some rough clayey
ground, he fell; and the united strength of the guide and myself could
not place him again upon his legs. I sat down for some time, beside this
worn-out associate of my adventures; but finding him still unable to
rise, I took off the saddle and bridle, and placed a quantity of grass
before him. I surveyed the poor animal, as he lay panting on the ground,
with sympathetic emotion; for I could not suppress the sad apprehension,
that I should myself, in a short time, lie down and perish in the same
manner, of fatigue and hunger. With this foreboding, I left my poor
horse, and with great reluctance followed my guide on foot, along the
bank of the river, until about noon; when we reached Kea, which I found
to be nothing more than a small fishing village. The Dooty, a surly old
man, who was sitting by the gate, received me very coolly; and when I
informed him of my situation, and begged his protection, told me, with
great indifference, that he paid very little attention to fine speeches,
and that I should not enter his house. My guide remonstrated in my
favour, but to no purpose; for the Dooty remained inflexible in his
determination, I knew not where to rest my wearied limbs, but was happily
relieved by a fishing canoe, belonging to Silla, which was at that moment
coming down the river. The Dooty waved to the fisherman to come near, and
desired him to take, charge of me as far as Moorzan. The fisherman, after
some hesitation, consented to carry me; and I embarked in the canoe, in
company with the fisherman, his wife, and a boy. The Negro who had
conducted me from Modiboo now left me; I requested him to look to my
horse on his return, and take care of him if he was still alive, which he
promised to do.

Departing from Kea, we proceeded about a mile down the river, when the
fisherman paddled the canoe to the bank, and desired me to jump out.
Having tied the canoe to a stake, he stripped off his clothes, and dived
for such a length of time, that I thought he had actually drowned
himself, and was surprised to see his wife behave with so much
indifference upon the occasion; but my fears were over when he raised up
his head astern of the canoe, and called for a rope. With this rope he
dived a second time, and then got into the canoe, and ordered the boy to
assist him in pulling. At length they brought up a large basket, about
ten feet in diameter, containing two fine fish, which the fisherman
(after returning the basket into the water) immediately carried ashore,
and hid in the grass. We then went a little further down, and took up
another basket, in which was one fish. The fisherman now left us, to
carry his prizes to some neighbouring market; and the woman and boy
proceeded with me in the canoe down the river.

About four o'clock we arrived at Moorzan, a fishing town on the northern
bank; from whence I was conveyed across the river to Silla, a large town;
where I remained until it was quite dark, under a tree, surrounded by
hundreds of people. But their language was very different from the other
parts of Bambarra: and I was informed that in my progress eastward, the
Bambarra tongue was but little understood, and that when I reached Jenne,
I should find that the majority of the inhabitants spoke a different
language, called _Jenne Kummo_ by the Negroes; and _Kalam Soudan_ by the
Moors.

With a great deal of entreaty the Dooty allowed me to come into his
baloon, to avoid the rain, but the place was very damp, and I had a smart
paroxysm of fever during the night. Worn down by sickness, exhausted with
hunger and fatigue, half naked, and without any article of value, by
which I might procure provisions, clothes, or lodging, I began to reflect
seriously on my situation. I was now convinced, by painful experience,
that the obstacles to my further progress were insurmountable. The
tropical rains were already set in, with all their violence, the rice
grounds and swamps were everywhere overflowed, and, in a few days more,
travelling of every kind, unless by water, would be completely
obstructed. The kowries which remained of the King of Bambarra's present,
were not sufficient to enable me to hire a canoe for any great distance;
and I had but little hopes of subsisting by charity, in a country where
the Moors have such influence. But about all, I perceived that I was
advancing more and more within the power of those merciless fanatics; and
from my reception both at Sego and Sansanding, I was apprehensive that,
in attempting to reach even Jenne, (unless under the protection of some
man of consequence amongst them, which I had no means of obtaining,) I
should sacrifice my life to no purpose, for my discoveries would perish
with me. The prospect either way was gloomy. In returning to the Gambia,
a journey on foot of many hundred miles, presented itself to my
contemplation, through regions and countries unknown. Nevertheless, this
seemed to be the only alternative; for I saw inevitable destruction, in
attempting to proceed to the eastward. With this conviction on my mind, I
hope my readers will acknowledge, that I did right in going no farther. I
had made every effort to execute my mission in its fullest extent, which
prudence could justify. Had there been the most distant prospect of a
successful termination, neither the unavoidable hardships of the journey,
nor the dangers of a second captivity, should have forced me to desist.
This, however, necessity compelled me to do; and whatever may be the
opinion of my general readers on this point, it affords me inexpressible
satisfaction, that my honourable employers have been pleased, since my
return, to express their full approbation of my conduct.

Having thus brought my mind, after much doubt and perplexity, to a
determination to return westward, I thought it incumbent on me, before I
left Silla, to collect from the Moorish and Negro traders all the
information I could, concerning the further course of the Niger eastward,
and the situation and extent of the kingdoms in its vicinage; and the
following few notices I received from such various quarters, as induce me
to think they are authentic.

Two short days journey to the eastward of Silla is the town of Jenne,
which is situated on a small island in the river, and is said to contain
a greater number of inhabitants than Sego itself, or any other town in
Bambarra. At the distance of two days more, the river spreads into a
considerable lake, called _Dibbe_ (or the dark lake), concerning the
extent of which all the information I could obtain was, that in crossing
it, from west to east, the canoes lose sight of land one whole day. From
this lake the water issues in many different streams, which terminate in
two large branches, one whereof flows towards the north-east, and the
other to the east; but these branches join at Kabra, which is one day's
journey to the southward of Tombuctoo, and is the port or shipping-place
of that city. The tract of land which the two streams encircle is called
Jinbala, and is inhabited by Negroes; and the whole distance, by land,
from Jenne to Tombuctoo, is twelve days journey.

From Kabra, at the distance of eleven days' journey, down the stream, the
river passes to the southward of Houssa, which is two days journey
distant from the river. Of the further progress of this great river and
its final exit, all the natives with whom I conversed seemed to be
entirely ignorant. Their commercial pursuits seldom induce them to travel
further than the cities of Tombuctoo and Houssa; and as the sole object
of those journeys is the acquirement of wealth, they pay but little
attention to the course of rivers, or the geography of countries. It is,
however, highly probable that the Niger affords a safe and easy
communication between very remote nations. All my informants agreed, that
many of the Negro merchants who arrive at Tombuctoo and Houssa, from the
eastward, speak a different language from that of Bambarra, or any other
kingdom with which they are acquainted. But even these merchants, it
would seem, are ignorant of the termination of the river, for such of
them as can speak Arabic, describe the amazing length of its course in
very general terms, saying only that they believe it _runs to the world's
end_.

The names of many kingdoms to the eastward of Houssa are familiar to the
inhabitants of Bambarra. I was shown quivers and arrows of very curious
workmanship, which I was informed came from the kingdom of Kassina.

On the northern bank of the Niger, at a short distance from Silla, is the
kingdom of Masina, which is inhabited by Foulahs. They employ themselves
there, as in other places, chiefly in pasturage, and pay an annual
tribute to the King of Bambarra for the lands which they occupy.

To the north-east of Masina is situated the kingdom of Tombuctoo, the
great object of European research, the capital of this kingdom being one
of the principal marts for that extensive commerce which the Moors carry
on with the Negroes. The hopes of acquiring wealth in this pursuit, and
zeal for propagating their religion, have filled this extensive city with
Moors and Mahomedan converts; the king himself, and all the chief
officers of state, are Moors, and they are said to be more severe and
intolerant in their principles than any other of the Moorish tribes in
this part of Africa. I was informed by a venerable old Negro, that when
he first visited Tombuctoo, he took up his lodging at a sort of public
inn, the landlord of which, when he conducted him into his hut, spread a
mat on the floor, and laid a rope upon it, saying, "If you are a
Mussulman you are my friend, sit down; but if you are a Kafir, you are my
slave, and with this rope I will lead you to market." The present King of
Tombuctoo is named _Abu Abrahima_; he is reported to possess immense
riches. His wives and concubines are said to be clothed in silk, and the
chief officers of state live in considerable splendour. The whole expense
of his government is defrayed, as I was told, by a tax upon merchandize,
which is collected at the gates of the city.

The city of Houssa (the capital of a large kingdom of the same name,
situated to the eastward of Tombuctoo) is another great mart for Moorish
commerce. I conversed with many merchants who had visited that city, and
they all agreed that it is larger and more populous than Tombuctoo. The
trade, police, and government, are nearly the same in both; but in Houssa
the Negroes are in greater proportion to the Moors, and have some share
in the government.

Concerning the small kingdom of Jinbala, I was not able to collect much
information. The soil is said to be remarkably fertile, and the whole
country so full of creeks and swamps, that the Moors have hitherto been
baffled in every attempt to subdue it. The inhabitants are Negroes, and
some of them are said to live in considerable affluence, particularly
those near the capital, which is a resting-place for such merchants as
transport goods from Tombuctoo to the western parts of Africa.

To the southward of Jinbala is situated the Negro kingdom of Gotto, which
is said to be of great extent. It was formerly divided into a number of
petty states which were governed by their own chiefs; but their private
quarrels invited invasion from the neighbouring kingdoms. At length a
politic chief, of the name of Moosee, had address enough to make them
unite in hostilities against Bambarra; and on this occasion he was
unanimously chosen general, the different chiefs consenting for a time to
act under his command. Moosee immediately dispatched a fleet of canoes,
loaded with provisions, from the banks of the lake Dibbe up the Niger
towards Jenne, and with the whole of his army pushed forwards into
Bambarra. He arrived on the banks of the Niger opposite to Jenne, before
the townspeople had the smallest intimation of his approach. His fleet of
canoes joined him the same day, and having landed the provisions, he
embarked part of his army, and in the night took Jenne by storm. This
event so terrified the King of Bambarra, that he sent messengers to sue
for peace, and in order to obtain it, consented to deliver to Moosee a
certain number of slaves every year, and return every thing that had been
taken from the inhabitants of Gotto. Moosee, thus triumphant, returned to
Gotto, where he was declared king, and the capital of the country is
called by his name.

On the west of Gotto is the kingdom of Baedoo, which was conquered by the
present King of Bambarra about seven years ago, and has continued
tributary to him ever since.

West of Baedoo is Maniana, the inhabitants of which, according to the
best information I was able to collect, are cruel and ferocious, carrying
their resentment towards their enemies so far, as never to give quarter,
and even to indulge themselves with unnatural and disgusting banquets of
human flesh.

I am well aware that the accounts which the Negroes give of their enemies
ought to be received with great caution; but I heard the same account in
so many different kingdoms, and from such variety of people, whose
veracity I had no occasion to suspect, that I am disposed to allow it
some degree of credit. The inhabitants of Bambarra, in the course of a
long and bloody war, must have had frequent opportunities of satisfying
themselves as to the fact; and if the report had been entirely without
foundation, I cannot conceive why the term _Madummulo_ (man-eaters)
should be applied exclusively to the inhabitants of Maniana.

CHAPTER XVII.

_The Author returns westward.--Arrives at Modiboo, and recovers his
horse.--Finds great difficulty in travelling in consequence of the rains,
and the overflowing of the river.--Is informed that the King of Bambarra
had sent persons to apprehend him.--Avoids Sego, and prosecutes his
journey along the banks of the Niger.--Incidents on the road.--Cruelties
attendant on African wars.--The Author crosses the river Frina, and
arrives at Tafiara._

Having, for the reasons assigned in the last chapter, determined to
proceed no farther eastward than Silla, I acquainted the Dooty with my
intention of returning to Sego, proposing to travel along the southern
side of the river; but he informed me, that, from the number of creeks
and swamps on that side, it was impossible to travel by any other route
than along the northern bank; and even that route, he said, would soon be
impassable, on account of the overflowing of the river. However, as he
commended my determination to return westward, he agreed to speak to some
one of the fishermen to carry me over to Moorzan. I accordingly stepped
into a canoe about eight o'clock in the morning of July 30th, and in
about an hour was landed at Moorzan. At this place I hired a canoe for
sixty kowries, and in the afternoon arrived at Kea; where, for forty
kowries more, the Dooty permitted me to sleep in the same hut with one of
his slaves. This poor Negro, perceiving that I was sickly, and that my
clothes were very ragged, humanely lent me a large cloth to cover me for
the night.

July 31st. The Dooty's brother being going to Modiboo, I embraced the
opportunity of accompanying him thither, there being no beaten road. He
promised to carry my saddle, which I had left at Kea when my horse fell
down in the woods, as I now proposed to present it to the King of
Bambarra.

We departed from Kea at eight o'clock, and about a mile to the westward
observed, on the bank of the river, a great number of earthen jars piled
up together. They were very neatly formed, but not glazed; and were
evidently of that sort of pottery which is manufactured at Downie, (a
town to the west of Tombuctoo,) and sold to great advantage in different
parts of Bambarra. As we approached towards the jars, my companion
plucked up a large handful of herbage, and threw it upon them, making
signs for me to do the same, which I did. He then, with great
seriousness, told me that these jars belonged to some supernatural power;
that they were found in their present situation about two years ago, and
as no person had claimed them, every traveller, as he passed them, from
respect to the invisible proprietor, threw some grass, or the branch of a
tree, upon the heap, to defend the jars from the rain.

Thus conversing, we travelled in the most friendly manner, until,
unfortunately, we perceived the footsteps of a lion, quite fresh in the
mud, near the river side. My companion now proceeded with great
circumspection, and at last, coming to some thick underwood, he insisted
that I should walk before him. I endeavoured to excuse myself, by
alleging that I did not know the road, but he obstinately persisted; and
after a few high words and menacing looks, threw down the saddle and went
away. This very much disconcerted me; but as I had given up all hopes of
obtaining a horse, I could not think of encumbering myself with the
saddle, and taking off the stirrups and girths, I threw the saddle into
the river. The Negro no sooner saw me throw the saddle into the water,
than he came running from among the bushes where he had concealed
himself, jumped into the river, and by help of his spear, brought out the
saddle, and ran away with it. I continued my course along the bank; but
as the wood was remarkably thick, and I had reason to believe that a lion
was at no great distance, I became much alarmed, and took a long circuit
through the bushes to avoid him.

About four in the afternoon I reached Modiboo, where I found my saddle.
The guide, who had got there before me, being afraid that I should inform
the king of his conduct, had brought the saddle with him in a canoe.

While I was conversing with the Dooty, and remonstrating against the
guide for having left me in such a situation, I heard a horse neigh in
one of the huts; and the Dooty inquired, with a smile, if I knew who was
speaking to me? He explained himself, by telling me that my horse was
still alive, and somewhat recovered from his fatigue; but he insisted
that I should take him along with me; adding, that he had once kept a
Moor's horse for four months, and when the horse had recovered and got
into good condition, the Moor returned and claimed it, and refused to
give him any reward for his trouble.

August 1st. I departed from Modiboo, driving my horse before me, and in
the afternoon reached Nyamee, where I remained three days, during which
time it rained without intermission, and with such violence, that no
person could venture out of doors.

Aug. 5th. I departed from Nyamee; but the country was so deluged, that I
was frequently in danger of losing the road, and had to wade across the
savannahs for miles together, knee deep in water. Even the corn ground,
which is the driest land in the country, was so completely flooded, that
my horse twice stuck fast in the mud, and was not got out without the
greatest difficulty.

In the evening of the same day I arrived at Nyara, where I was well
received by the Dooty; and as the 6th was rainy, I did not depart until
the morning of the 7th; but the water had swelled to such a height, that
in many places the road was scarcely passable; and though I waded breast
deep across the swamps, I could only reach a small village called
Nemaboo, where, however, for an hundred kowries, I procured from some
Foulahs plenty of corn for my horse, and milk for myself.

Aug. 8th. The difficulties I had experienced the day before, made me
anxious to engage a fellow-traveller; particularly as I was assured,
that, in the course of a few days, the country would be so completely
overflowed, as to render the road utterly impassable; but though I
offered two hundred kowries for a guide, nobody would accompany me.
However, on the morning following, (Aug. 9th,) a Moor and his wife,
riding upon two bullocks, and bound for Sego with salt, passed the
village, and agreed to take me along with them; but I found them of
little service, for they were wholly unacquainted with the road, and
being accustomed to a sandy soil, were very bad travellers. Instead of
wading before the bullocks, to feel if the ground was solid, the woman
boldly entered the first swamp, riding upon the top of the load; but when
she had proceeded about two hundred yards, the bullock sunk into a hole,
and threw both the load and herself among the reeds. The frightened
husband stood for some time seemingly petrified with horror, and suffered
his wife to be almost drowned before he went to her assistance.

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