Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa by Mungo Park

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A little before sunset, I descended on the north-west side of this ridge
of hills, and as I was looking about for a convenient tree under which to
pass the night, (for I had no hopes of reaching any town,) I descended
into a delightful valley, and soon afterwards arrived at a romantic
village called Kooma. This village is surrounded by a high wall, and is
the sole property of a Mandingo merchant, who fled hither with his family
during a former war. The adjacent fields yield him plenty of corn, his
cattle roam at large in the valley, and the rocky hills secure him from
the depredations of war. In this obscure retreat he is seldom visited by
strangers, but whenever this happens, he makes the weary traveller
welcome. I soon found myself surrounded by a circle of the harmless
villagers. They asked me a thousand questions about my country; and, in
return for my information, brought corn and milk for myself, and grass
for my horse, kindled a fire in the hut where I was to sleep, and
appeared very anxious to serve me.

Aug. 25th. I departed from Kooma, accompanied by two shepherds, who were
going towards Sibidooloo. The road was very steep and rocky, and as my
horse had hurt his feet much in coming from Bammakoo, he travelled slowly
and with great difficulty; for in many places the ascent was so sharp,
and the declivities so great, that if he made one false step, he must
inevitably have been dashed to pieces. The shepherds being anxious to
proceed, gave themselves little trouble about me or my horse, and kept
walking on at a considerable distance. It was about eleven o'clock, as I
stopped to drink a little water at a rivulet, (my companions being near a
quarter of a mile before me,) that I heard some people calling to each
other, and presently a loud screaming, as from a person in great
distress. I immediately conjectured that a lion had taken one of the
shepherds, and mounted my horse to have a better view of what had
happened. The noise, however, ceased; and I rode slowly towards the place
from whence I thought it had proceeded, calling out but without receiving
any answer. In a little time, however, I perceived one of the shepherds
lying among the long grass near the road, and, though I could see no
blood upon him, I concluded he was dead. But when I came close to him, he
whispered me to stop, telling me that a party of armed men had seized
upon his companion, and shot two arrows at himself as he was making his
escape. I stopped to consider what course to take, and looking round, saw
at a little distance a man sitting upon the stump of a tree; I
distinguished also the heads of six or seven more sitting among the
grass, with muskets in their hands. I had now no hopes of escaping, and
therefore determined to ride toward towards them. As I approached them,
I was in hopes they were elephant hunters; and, by way of opening the
conversation, inquired if they had shot any thing; but without returning
an answer, one of them ordered me to dismount; and then, as if
recollecting himself, waved with his hand for me to proceed. I
accordingly rode past, and had with some difficulty crossed a deep
rivulet, when I heard somebody holla; and looking behind, saw those I had
taken for elephant hunters running after me, and calling out to me to
turn back. I stopped until they were all come up; when they informed
me that the King of the Foulahs had sent them on purpose to bring me,
my horse, and every thing that belonged to me, to Fooladoo; and
that therefore I must turn back and go along with them. Without
hesitating a moment, I turned round and followed them, and we travelled
together near a quarter of a mile without exchanging a word, when, coming
to a dark place of the wood, one of them said in the Mandingo language,
"this place will do;" and immediately snatched my hat from my head.
Though I was by no means free of apprehension, yet I resolved to shew as
few signs of fear as possible, and therefore told them, that unless my
hat was returned to me, I should proceed no further. But before I had
time to receive an answer, another drew his knife, and seizing upon a
metal button which remained upon my waistcoat, cut it off, and put it
into his pocket. Their intentions were now obvious; and I thought that
the easier they were permitted to rob me of every thing, the less I had
to fear. I therefore allowed them to search my pockets without
resistance, and examine every part of my apparel, which they did with the
most scrupulous exactness. But observing that I had one waistcoat under
another, they insisted that I should cast them both off; and at last, to
make sure work, stripped me quite naked. Even my half boots (though the
sole of one of them was tied on to my foot with a broken-bridle rein,)
were minutely inspected. Whilst they were examining the plunder, I begged
them, with great earnestness, to return my pocket compass; but when I
pointed it out to them, as it was lying on the ground, one of the
banditti, thinking I was about to take it up, cocked his musket, and
swore that he would lay me dead on the spot, if I presumed to put my hand
upon it. After this, some of them went away with my horse, and the
remainder stood considering whether they should leave me quite naked, or
allow me something to shelter me from the sun. Humanity at last
prevailed; they returned me the worst of the two shirts, and a pair of
trowsers; and, as they went away, one of them threw back my hat, in the
crown of which I kept my memorandums; and this was probably the reason
they did not wish to keep it. After they were gone, I sat for some time
looking around me with amazement and terror. Which ever way I turned,
nothing appeared but danger and difficulty. I saw myself in the midst of
a vast wilderness in the depth of the rainy season, naked and alone,
surrounded by savage animals, and men still more savage. I was five
hundred miles from the nearest European settlement. All these
circumstances crowded at once on my recollection, and I confess that my
spirits began to fail me. I considered my fate as certain, and that I had
no alternative but to lie down and perish. The influence of religion,
however, aided and supported me. I reflected that no human prudence or
foresight could possibly have averted my present sufferings. I was indeed
a stranger in a strange land, yet I was still under the protecting eye of
that Providence who has condescended to call himself the stranger's
friend. At this moment, painful as my reflections were, the extraordinary
beauty of a small moss, in fructification, irresistibly caught my eye, I
mention this to show from what trifling circumstances the mind will
sometimes derive consolation; for though the whole plant was not larger
than the top of one of my fingers, I could not contemplate the delicate
conformation of its roots, leaves, and capsula, without admiration. Can
that Being (thought I,) who planted, watered, and brought to perfection,
in this obscure part of the world, a thing which appears of so small
importance, look with unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of
creatures formed after his own image?--Surely not? Reflections like these
would not allow me to despair. I started up, and disregarding both hunger
and fatigue, travelled forwards, assured that relief was at hand; and I
was not disappointed. In a short time I came to a small village, at the
entrance of which I overtook the two shepherds who had come with me from
Kooma. They were much surprised to see me; for they said they never
doubted that the Foulahs, when they had robbed, had murdered me.
Departing from this village, we travelled over several rocky ridges, and
at sunset arrived at Sibidooloo, the frontier town of the kingdom of
Manding.

CHAPTER XIX.

_Government of Manding.--The Author's reception by the Mansa, or chief
man of Sibidooloo, who takes measures for the recovery of his horse and
effects.--The Author removes to Wonda.--Great scarcity, and its
afflicting consequences.--The Author recovers his horse and
clothes.--Presents his horse to the Mansa, and prosecutes his journey to
Kamalia.--Some account of that town.--The Author's kind reception by
Karfa Taura, a slatee, who proposes to go to the Gambia in the next dry
season, with a caravan of slaves.--The Author's sickness, and
determination to remain and accompany Karfa._

The town of Sibidooloo is situated in a fertile valley, surrounded with
high rocky hills. It is scarcely accessible for horses, and during the
frequent wars between the Bambarrans, Foulahs, and Mandingoes, has never
once been plundered by an enemy. When I entered the town, the people
gathered round me, and followed me into the balloon; where I was
presented to the Dooty or chief man, who is here called Mansa, which
usually signifies king. Nevertheless, it appeared to me that the
government of Manding was a sort of republic, or rather an oligarchy,
every town having a particular Mansa, and the chief power of the state,
in the last resort, being lodged in the assembly of the whole body. I
related to the Mansa the circumstances of my having been robbed of my
horse and apparel, and my story was confirmed by the two shepherds. He
continued smoking his pipe all the time I was speaking; but I had no
sooner finished, than, taking his pipe from his mouth, and tossing up the
sleeve of his coat, with an indignant air "Sit down, (said he,) you shall
have everything restored to you; I have sworn it:"--and then turning to
an attendant, "Give the white man (said he) a draught of water; and with
the first light of the morning go over the hills, and inform the Dooty of
Bammakoo, that a poor white man, the King of Bambarra's stranger, has
been robbed by the King of Fooladoo's people."

I little expected, in my forlorn condition, to meet with a man who could
thus feel for my sufferings. I heartily thanked the Mansa for his
kindness, and accepted his invitation to remain with him until the return
of the messenger, I was conducted into a hut, and had some victuals sent
me; but the crowd of people which assembled to see me, all of whom
commiserated my misfortunes, and vented imprecations against the Foulahs,
prevented me from sleeping until past midnight. Two days I remained
without hearing any intelligence of my horse or clothes; and as there was
at this time a great scarcity of provisions, approaching even to famine,
all over this part of the country, I was unwilling to trespass any
further on the Mansa's generosity, and begged permission to depart to the
next village. Finding me very anxious to proceed, he told me that I might
go as far as a town called Wonda, where he hoped I would remain a few
days, until I heard some account of my horse, &c.

I departed accordingly on the next morning of the 28th, and stopped at
some small villages for refreshment. I was presented at one of them with
a dish which I had never before seen. It was composed of the blossoms, or
_antherae_ of the maize, stewed in milk and water. It is eaten only in
time of great scarcity. On the 30th, about noon, I arrived at Wonda, a
small town with a mosque, and surrounded by a high wall. The Mansa, who
was a Mahomedan, acted in two capacities; as chief magistrate of the
town, and schoolmaster to the children. He kept his school in an open
shed, where I was desired to take up my lodging, until some account
should arrive from Sibidooloo, concerning my horse and clothes; for
though the horse was of little use to me, yet the few clothes were
essential. The little raiment upon me could neither protect me from the
sun by day, nor the dews and musquetoes by night: indeed my shirt was not
only worn thin, like a piece of muslin, but withal was so very dirty,
that I was happy to embrace an opportunity of washing it; which having
done, and spread it upon a bush, I sat down naked in the shade until it
was dry.

Ever since the commencement of the rainy season, my health had been
greatly on the decline. I had often been affected with slight paroxysms
of fever; and, from the time of leaving Bammakoo the symptoms had
considerably increased. As I was sitting in the manner described, the
fever returned with such violence, that it very much alarmed me; the more
so, as I had no medicine to stop its progress, nor any hope of obtaining
that care and attention which my situation required.

I remained at Wonda nine days; during which time I experienced the
regular return of the fever every day. And though I endeavoured as much
as possible to conceal my distress from my landlord, and frequently lay
down the whole day, out of his sight, in a corn field, conscious how
burthensome I was to him and his family, in a time of such great
scarcity, yet I found that he was apprised of my situation, and one
morning, as I feigned to be asleep by the fire; he observed to his wife
that they were likely to find me a very troublesome and chargeable guest,
for that, in my present sickly state, they should be obliged, for the
sake of their good name, to maintain me until I recovered, or died.

The scarcity of provisions was certainly felt at this time most severely
by the poor people, as the following circumstance most painfully
convinced me. Every evening, during my stay, I observed five or six women
come to the Mansa's house, and receive each of them a certain quantity of
corn. As I knew how valuable this article was at this juncture, I
enquired of the Mansa, whether he maintained these poor women from pure
bounty, or expected a return when the harvest should be gathered in.
"Observe that boy," said he, (pointing to a fine child about five years
of age;) "his mother has sold him to me for forty days' provision for
herself and the rest of her family. I have bought another boy in the same
manner." Good God, thought I, what must a mother suffer, before she sells
her own child! I could not get this melancholy subject out of my mind,
and the next night, when the women returned for their allowance, I
desired the boy to point out to me his mother, which he did. She was much
emaciated, but had nothing cruel or savage in her countenance; and when
she had received her corn, she came and talked to her son with as much
cheerfulness as if he had still been under her care.

Sept. 6th. Two people arrived from Sibidooloo, bringing with them my
horse and clothes; but I found that my pocket compass was broken to
pieces. This was a great loss, which I could not repair.

Sept. 7th. As my horse was grazing near the brink of a well, the ground
gave way, and he fell in. The well was about ten feet diameter, and so
very deep, that when I saw my horse snorting in the water, I thought it
was impossible to save him. The inhabitants of the village, however,
immediately assembled, and having tied together a number of withes[15]
they lowered a man down into the well, who fastened those withes round
the body of the horse; and the people, having first drawn up the man,
took hold of the withes, and to my surprise, pulled the horse out with
the greatest facility. The poor animal was now reduced to a mere
skeleton, and the roads were scarcely passable, being either very rocky,
or else full of mud and water. I therefore found it impracticable to
travel with him any farther, and was happy to leave him in the hands of
one who I thought would take care of him. I accordingly presented him to
my landlord, and desired him to send my saddle and bridle a present to
the Mansa of Sibidooloo, being the only return I could make him for
having taken so much trouble in procuring my horse and clothes.

[15] From a plant called _kabba_, that climbs like a vine upon the
trees.

I now thought it necessary, sick as I was, to take leave of my hospitable
landlord. On the morning of Sept. 8th, when I was about to depart, he
presented me with his spear, as a token of remembrance, and a leather bag
to contain my clothes. Having converted my half boots into sandals, I
travelled with more ease, and slept that night at a village called
Ballanti. On the 9th, I reached Nemacoo; but the Mansa of the village
thought fit to make me sup upon the cameleon's dish. By way of apology,
however, he assured me the next morning, that the scarcity of corn was
such, that he could not possibly allow me any. I could not accuse him of
unkindness, as all the people actually appeared to be starving.

Sept. 10th. It rained hard all day, and the people kept themselves in
their huts. In the afternoon I was visited by a Negro, named Modi Lemina
Taura, a great trader, who, suspecting my distress, brought me some
victuals, and promised to conduct me to his house at Kinyeto the day
following.

Sept. 11th. I departed from Nemacoo, and arrived at Kinyeto in the
evening; but having hurt my ankle in the way, it swelled and inflamed so
much that I could neither walk nor set my foot to the ground, the next
day, without great pain. My landlord observing this, kindly invited me to
stop with him a few days; and I accordingly remained at his house until
the 14th; by which time I felt much relieved, and, could walk with the
help of a staff. I now set out, thanking my landlord for his great care
and attention; and being accompanied by a young man, who was travelling
the same way, I proceeded for Jerijang, a beautiful and well cultivated
district, the Mansa of which is reckoned the most powerful chief of any
in Manding.

On the 15th, I reached Dosita, a large town, where I staid one day on
account of the rain; but continued very sickly, and was slightly
delirious in the night. On the 17th, I set out for Mansia, a considerable
town, where small quantities of gold are collected. The road led over a
high rocky hill, and my strength and spirits were so much exhausted, that
before I could reach the top of the hill, I was forced to lie down three
times, being very faint and sickly. I reached Mansia in the afternoon.
The Mansa of this town had the character of being very inhospitable. He
however sent me a little corn for supper, but demanded something in
return; and when I assured him that I had nothing of value in my
possession, he told me (as if in jest) that my white skin should not
defend me if I told him lies. He then showed me the hut wherein I was to
sleep; but took away my spear, saying that it should be returned to me in
the morning. This trifling circumstance, when joined to the character I
had heard of the man, made me rather suspicious of him; and I privately
desired one of the inhabitants of the place, who had a bow and quiver, to
sleep in the same hut with me. About midnight, I heard somebody approach
the door, and observing the moonlight strike suddenly into the hut, I
started up, and saw a man stepping cautiously over the threshold. I
immediately snatched up the Negro's bow and quiver, the rattling of which
made the man withdraw; and my companion looking out, assured me that it
was the Mansa himself, and advised me to keep awake until the morning. I
closed the door, and placed a large piece of wood behind it; and was
wondering at this unexpected visit, when somebody pressed so hard against
the door, that the Negro could scarcely keep it shut. But when I called
to him to open the door, the intruder ran off, as before.

Sept. 16th. As soon as it was light, the Negro, at my request, went to
the Mansa's house, and brought away my spear. He told me that the Mansa
was asleep, and lest this inhospitable chief should devise means to
detain me, he advised me to set out before he was awake; which I
immediately did; and about two o'clock reached Kamalia, a small town
situated at the bottom of some rocky hills, where the inhabitants collect
gold in considerable quantities. The Bushreens here live apart from the
Kafirs, and have built their huts in a scattered manner, at a short
distance from the town. They have a place set apart for performing their
devotions in, to which they give the name of _missura_, or mosque; but it
is in fact nothing more than a square piece of ground made level, and
surrounded with the trunks of trees, having a small projection towards
the east, where the Marraboo, or priest, stands, when he calls the people
to prayers. Mosques of this construction are very common among the
converted Negroes; but having neither walls nor roof, they can only be
used in fine weather. When it rains, the Bushreens perform their
devotions in their huts.

On my arrival at Kamalia, I was conducted to the house of a Bushreen
named Karfa Taura, the brother of him to whose hospitality I was indebted
at Kinyeto. He was collecting a coffle of slaves, with a view to sell
them to the Europeans on the Gambia, as soon as the rains should be over.
I found him sitting in his baloon surrounded by several Slatees, who
proposed to join the coffle. He was reading to them from an Arabic book;
and inquired, with a smile, if I understood it? Being answered in the
negative, he desired one of the Slatees to fetch the little curious book,
which had been brought from the west country. On opening this small
volume, I was surprised and delighted to find it our _Book of Common
Prayer_; and Karfa expressed great joy to hear that I could read it; for
some of the Slatees, who had seen the Europeans upon the Coast, observing
the colour of my skin, (which was now become very yellow from sickness,)
my long beard, ragged clothes, and extreme poverty, were unwilling to
admit that I was a white man, and told Karfa that they suspected I was
some Arab in disguise. Karfa, however, perceiving that I could read this
book, had no doubt concerning me; and kindly promised me every assistance
in his power. At the same time he informed me, that it was impossible to
cross the Jallonka wilderness for many months yet to come, as no less
than eight rapid rivers, he said, lay in the way. He added, that he
intended to set out himself for Gambia as soon as the rivers were
fordable, and the grass burnt; and advised me to stay and accompany him.
He remarked, that when a caravan of the natives could not travel through
the country, it was idle for a single white man to attempt it. I readily
admitted that such an attempt was an act of rashness, but I assured him
that I had now no alternative; for having no money to support myself, I
must either beg my subsistence, by travelling from place to place, or
perish for want. Karfa now looked at me with great earnestness, and
inquired if I could eat the common victuals of the country, assuring me
he had never before seen a white man. He added, that if I would remain
with him until the rains were over, he would give me plenty of victuals
in the meantime, and a hut to sleep in; and that after he had conducted
me in safety to the Gambia, I might then make him what return I thought
proper. I asked him if the value of one prime slave would satisfy him. He
answered in the affirmative, and immediately ordered one of the huts to
be swept for my accomodation. Thus was I delivered, by the friendly care
of this benevolent Negro, from a situation truly deplorable. Distress and
famine pressed hard upon me. I had, before me, the gloomy wilds of
Jallonkadoo, where the traveller sees no habitation for five successive
days. I had observed at a distance the rapid course of the river Kokoro.
I had almost marked out the place where I was doomed, I thought, to
perish, when this friendly Negro stretched out his hospitable hand for my
relief.

In the hut which was appropriated for me, I was provided with a mat to
sleep on, an earthen jar for holding water, and a small calabash to drink
out of; and Karfa sent me from his own dwelling two meals a day; and
ordered his slaves to supply me with firewood and water. But I found that
neither the kindness of Karfa, nor any sort of accomodation, could put a
stop to the fever which weakened me, and which became every day more
alarming. I endeavoured as much as possible to conceal my distress; but
on the third day after my arrival, as I was going with Karfa to visit
some of his friends, I found myself so faint that I could scarcely walk,
and before we reached the place, I staggered, and fell into a pit from
which the clay had been taken to build one of the huts. Karfa endeavoured
to console me with the hopes of a speedy recovery; assuring me, that if I
would not walk out in the wet, I should soon be well. I determined to
follow his advice and confine myself to my hut; but was still tormented
with the fever, and my health continued to be in a very precarious state
for five ensuing weeks. Sometimes I could crawl out of the hut, and sit a
few hours in the open air; at other times I was unable to rise, and
passed the lingering hours in a very gloomy and solitary manner. I was
seldom visited by any person except my benevolent landlord, who came
daily to inquire after my health. When the rains became less frequent and
the country began to grow dry, the fever left me; but in so debilitated
condition, that I could scarcely stand upright, and it was with great
difficulty that I could carry my mat to the shade of a tamarind tree, at
a short distance, to enjoy the refreshing smell of the corn-fields, and
delight my eyes with a prospect of the country. I had the pleasure, at
length, to find myself in a state of convalescence: towards which the
benevolent and simple manners of the Negroes, and the perusal of Karfa's
little volume, greatly contributed.

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