Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa by Mungo Park

M >> Mungo Park >> Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33

The next person who offered his services to the Association was Mungo
Park, who has acquired such celebrity by the important acquisitions which
he made to African Geography. As introductory to the narrative of his
first expedition, we present our readers with a brief sketch of his early
life.

PARK'S EARLY LIFE.

Mungo Park, the celebrated African traveller, was born at Fowlshiels,
near the town of Selkirk, on the 10th September 1771. His father was a
respectable farmer on the Duke of Buccleuch's estate; and his mother, the
daughter of a neighbouring farmer of the name of Hislop, a woman of great
good sense and prudence, who anxiously and faithfully discharged the
duties which she owed to a large family of thirteen children, of whom
Mungo, the subject of this memoir, was the seventh. Park's father died
before his son had won that renown which so honourably distinguishes his
name, though not without the satisfaction of witnessing a fair promise of
his future distinction; but his mother, after hearing with much pride of
her offspring's early achievements, had to lament his untimely fate;
consoled, however, by the recollection of his unblemished character, and
virtuous conduct, and by the thought of the legacy of fame which he had
bequeathed, not to his family alone, but to his country.

With a solicitude for the education of his children, then by no means
common among the Scottish farmers, Mr. Park hired a tutor to superintend
their education, being anxious not to leave them to such chance
instruction as they might receive before they were of a proper age for
going to school; thus shewing that he was alive to the advantage of early
habits of application and study. The boyhood of Mungo Park was not
distinguished by any marks of peculiar talent, though he appears, when
sent to Selkirk school, to have paid more than an average share of
attention to his studies. Of a thoughtful and reserved disposition, he
seldom took a share in the mirthful sports of his school-fellows. He was
fond of reading and solitude, often wandering for hours among the hills,
and along the banks of his native Yarrow. The legends of border chivalry,
many of which still lingered in the district, had not been poured into an
unwilling ear; they made a strong impression upon his imagination, and
probably contributed, in no inconsiderable degree, to fire his spirit,
and excite that love of adventure which so strongly marked his future
life. Moreover, occasional gleams of ambition broke forth from amid his
quiet thoughtfulness, which shewed, that beneath a cold exterior there
lurked a mind of no ordinary cast. This constitutional reserve made him
select in his choice of friends, but with those to whom he granted the
privilege of intimacy, he was all confidence and frankness.

The limited cost of an education for the Church of Scotland renders it an
object of ambition to many in the middle ranks of life; and the parents
of Mungo Park, judging that his peculiar disposition fitted him for the
ministry, were anxious that he should enter upon the initiatory course of
education. Park, however, manifested a decided repugnance to this choice,
and resolved upon qualifying himself for the medical profession.
Accordingly, at the age of fifteen, he was bound apprentice to Mr. Thomas
Anderson, a respectable surgeon in Selkirk, with whom he remained for the
space of three years, during which, at leisure hours, he continued to
prosecute his classical studies, and also acquired a knowledge of the
elementary principles of mathematics. Mr. Anderson's practice, which was
pretty extensive, enabled him to obtain a considerable acquaintance of
the rudiments of his profession, and formed a suitable preparation for
his academical studies. In the year 1789, he removed to Edinburgh, and
attended the usual course of lectures for three successive sessions.
Though a persevering and attentive student, he does not seem to have
manifested much love for the healing art. Botany was his favourite study,
which he pursued with much ardour during the summer months. And,
fortunately, his brother-in-law, Mr. James Dickson, who published an
elaborate work on the _Cryptogamic_ plants, was well calculated to aid
him in this pursuit. This meritorious individual had in early life
removed to London, and for some time followed the humble occupation of a
working gardener. Having distinguished himself by a diligent and zealous
discharge of the duties of his calling, he attracted the notice of Sir
Joseph Banks, who, ever anxious to reward merit, generously opened to him
his library. Of this privilege Mr. Dickson availed himself so
successfully, that he soon distinguished himself as a botanist, and
enlarged materially the boundaries of the science. But, with rare
prudence, he still carried on his original business as a seeds man, while
he lived on terms of intimacy and friendship with many of the most
distinguished literary characters of his time.

With Mr. Dickson young Park made a summer ramble through the Highlands,
principally for the sake of adding to his botanical treasures, and, under
under the guidance of his relative, pursued enthusiastically his
favourite science. After Park had completed his medical studies, Mr
Dickson advised him to go to London, in search of professional
employment, in the expectation of advancing his prospects, through the
interest of his scientific acquaintance. Nor was he disappointed in this
hope, for, through Sir Joseph Banks's recommendation, he obtained the
appointment of assistant surgeon to the Worcester East Indiaman. He
sailed in February 1792; and after a voyage to Bencoolen, in the island
of Sumatra, returned to England in the following year. No incident of
importance occurred during this voyage, but Mr. Park made some collections
in botany and natural history, which were submitted to the Linnaean
Society, and an account of them printed in the third volume of their
Transactions.

It does not appear whether Park had come to any determinate conclusion to
quit the company's service; at all events, he continued to shew a decided
preference for studies in natural history; and the circle of
acquaintances to which Sir Joseph Banks had introduced him after his
return to England, contributed much to strengthen this preference. At
this time, no doubt, he was disposed, upon a suitable opening being
presented, to free himself from the duties of his profession, and enter
upon some more congenial employment. His mind was soon to be directed to
loftier objects--to scenes of stirring interest and varied adventure--to
an enterprise for which he was well qualified by his enthusiastic zeal
for discovery, his scientific acquirements, vigorous constitution, and
patient and persevering disposition. The African Association, consisting
of a number of individuals distinguished by their ardent zeal for the
promotion of geographical discovery in the unknown regions of that vast
continent, had been formed a few years before this period. Their
investigations had brought to light some leading facts relative to
Northern Africa; and with the assistance of Major Rennel, they were
endeavouring to lay down as accurately as possible upon the map, the
principal geographical outlines. But they were most anxious to acquire
correct information concerning the river Joliba, or Niger, and also to
collect some particulars concerning the interior of the country. Under
their auspices several travellers had already gone forth, who had either
fallen victims to the climate, or been murdered by the natives;--and
recent intelligence had been brought to England of the death of Major
Houghton, who had set out with the intention of penetrating to Timbuctoo
and Houssa. Deterred by his fate, no individual for a considerable period
seemed willing to undertake the mission, though liberal offers of
compensation had been made. Here was the very enterprise which possessed
irresistible charms for Park's romantic and daring mind: in him the
Association found an individual well qualified for the task. They were
fully satisfied with the answers which he gave to all their inquiries:
his mind had been already directed towards geographical research; he had
the matured strength of manhood, and his constitution had in some
measure, been inured to a hot climate; his medical knowledge would not
only contribute to the preservation of his own health, but would also
secure him the respect and veneration of the natives. At the commencement
of his narrative, he relates the feelings which animated him in deciding
on this perilous journey. The prospects of personal advantage held out,
even should he prove successful, were so inconsiderable, that in his
acceptance of the offer, he was evidently actuated by an ardent desire of
adding to the slender knowledge possessed of that interesting country, as
well as by the hope of having his name joined to the list of those who
have distinguished themselves by active enterprise.

A considerable time elapsed ere everything was ready for his departure;
and two years had passed away since his return from India. During that
period, with the exception of a short visit paid to his friends in
Scotland, he had chiefly resided in London; partly engaged with his
favourite studies, and enjoying the pleasures of cultivated society; but
devoting his chief time and attention to acquiring the knowledge, and
superintending the preparations necessary for his journey. At length he
received his final instructions from the Association, and set sail from
Portsmouth, on the 22d of May 1795, on board the Endeavour, an African
trader, bound for the Gambia, where he arrived on the 21st of the
following month. He was furnished with a letter of recommendation to Dr.
Laidley, who resided at the English factory of Pisania, on the Gambia,
and on whom he had a letter of credit for L. 200.

In the reprint which follows, the reader will find, in Mr. Park's own
words, a full narrative of the various incidents which befel him during
this eventful journey.

* * * * *

[Illustration: Map of Park's Travels in Africa with the Course of the
Niger.]

* * * * *

TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA.

CHAPTER I.

_The author's motives for undertaking the voyage--his instructions and
departure--arrives at Jillifree, on the Gambia River--proceeds to
Vintain,--Some account of the Feloops.--Proceeds up the river for
Jonkakonda--arrives at Dr. Laidley's.--Some account of Pisania, and the
British factory established at that place.--The Author's employment
during his stay at Pisania--his sickness and recovery--the country
described--prepares to set out for the interior._

Soon after my return from the East Indies, in 1793, having learned that
the noblemen and gentlemen, associated for the purpose of prosecuting
Discoveries in the Interior of Africa, were desirous of engaging a person
to explore that continent by the way of the Gambia River, I took
occasion, through means of the President of the Royal Society, to whom I
had the honour to be known, of offering myself for that service; I had
been informed, that a gentleman of the name of Houghton, a captain in the
army, and formerly fort-major at Goree, had already sailed to the Gambia,
under the direction of the association, and that there was reason to
apprehend he had fallen a sacrifice to the climate, or perished in some
contest with the natives; but this intelligence, instead of deterring me
from my purpose, animated me to persist in the offer of my services with
the greater solicitude. I had a passionate desire to examine into the
productions of a country so little known, and to become experimentally
acquainted with the modes of life and character of the natives. I knew
that I was able to bear fatigue, and I relied on my youth, and the
strength of my constitution, to preserve me from the effects of the
climate. The salary which the committee allowed was sufficiently large,
and I made no stipulation for future reward. If I should perish in my
journey, I was willing that my hopes and expectations should perish with
me; and if I should succeed in rendering the geography of Africa more
familiar to my countrymen, and in opening to their ambition and industry
new sources of wealth, and new channels of commerce, I knew that I was in
the hands of men of honour, who would not fail to bestow that
remuneration which my successful services should appear to them to merit.
The Committee of the Association, having made such inquiries as they
thought necessary, declared themselves satisfied with the qualifications
that I possessed, and accepted me for the service; and with that
liberality which on all occasions distinguishes their conduct, gave me
every encouragement which it was in their power to grant, or which I
could with propriety ask.

It was at first proposed that I should accompany Mr. James Willis, who was
then recently appointed Consul at Senegambia, and whose countenance in
that capacity it was thought might have served and protected me; but
Government afterwards rescinded his appointment, and I lost that
advantage. The kindness of the Committee, however, supplied all that was
necessary. Being favoured by the Secretary of the Association, the late
Henry Beaufoy, Esq. with a recommendation to Dr. John Laidley, (a
gentleman who had resided many years at an English factory on the banks
of the Gambia,) and furnished with a letter of credit on him for L.200, I
took my passage in the brig Endeavour, a small vessel trading to the
Gambia for bees-wax and ivory, commanded by Captain Richard Wyatt, and I
became impatient for my departure.

My instructions were very plain and concise. I was directed, on my
arrival in Africa, "to pass on to the river Niger, either by the way of
Bambouk, or by such other route as should be found most convenient: That
I should ascertain the course, and, if possible, the rise and termination
of that river. That I should use my utmost exertions to visit the
principal towns, or cities in its neighbourhood, particularly Tombuctoo
and Houssa; and that I should be afterwards at liberty to return to
Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by such other route as, under
all the then existing circumstances of my situation and prospects, should
appear to me to be most advisable."

We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22d day of May 1795. On the 4th of June
we saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the coast of Africa, and on the
21st of the same month, after a pleasant voyage of thirty days, we
anchored at Jillifree, a town on the northern bank of the river Gambia,
opposite to James' Island, where the English had formerly a small port.

The kingdom of Barra, in which the town of Jillifree is situated,
produces great plenty of the necessaries of life; but the chief trade of
the inhabitants is in salt; which commodity they carry up the river in
canoes as high as Barraconda, and bring down in return Indian corn,
cotton cloths, elephants' teeth, small quantities of gold dust. The
number of canoes and people constantly employed in this trade, make the
King of Barra more formidable to Europeans than any other chieftain on
the river; and this circumstance probably encouraged him to establish
those exorbitant duties, which traders of all nations are obliged to pay
at entry, amounting to nearly L. 20 on every vessel, great and small.
These duties, or customs, are generally collected in person by the
Alkaid, or governor of Jillifree, and he is attended on these occasions
by a numerous train of dependants, among whom are found many who, by
their frequent intercourse with the English, have acquired a smattering
of our language; but they are commonly very noisy, and very troublesome;
begging for every thing they fancy with such earnestness and importunity,
that traders, in order to get quit of them, are frequently obliged to
grant their requests.

On the 23d we departed from Jillifree, and proceeded to Vintain, a town
situated about two miles up a creek on the southern side of the river.
This is much resorted to by Europeans, on account of the great quantities
of bees-wax which are brought hither--for sale: the wax is collected in
the woods by the Feloops, a wild and unsociable race of people; their
country, which is of considerable extent, abounds in rice; and the
natives supply the traders, both on the Gambia and Cassamansa rivers,
with that article, and also with goats and poultry, on very reasonable
terms. The honey which they collect is chiefly used by themselves in
making a strong intoxicating liquor, much the same as the mead which is
produced from honey in Great Britain.

In their traffic with Europeans, the Feloops generally employ a factor or
agent, of the Mandingo nation, who speaks a little English, and is
acquainted with the trade of the river. This broker makes the bargain;
and, with the connivance of the European, receives a certain part only of
the payment, which he gives to his employer as the whole; the remainder
(which is very truly called the cheating money) he receives when the
Feloop is gone, and appropriates to himself, as a reward for his trouble.

The language of the Feloops is appropriate and peculiar; and as their
trade is chiefly conducted, as hath been observed, by Mandingoes, the
Europeans have no inducement to learn it. The numerals are as follow:

One ......... _Enory_.
Two ......... _Sickaba_, or _Cookaba_.
Three ....... _Sisajee_.
Four ........ _Sibakeer_.
Five ........ _Footuck_.
Six ......... _Footuck-Enory_.
Seven ....... _Footuck-Cookaba_.
Eight ....... _Footuck-Sisajee_.
Nine ........ _Footuck-Sibakeer_.
Ten ......... Sibankonyen.

On the 26th we left Vintain, and continued our course up the river,
anchoring whenever the tide failed us, and frequently towing the vessel
with the boat. The river is deep and muddy; the banks are covered with
impenetrable thickets of mangrove; and the whole of the adjacent country
appears to be flat and swampy.

The Gambia abounds with fish, some species of which are excellent food;
but none of them that I recollect are known in Europe. At the entrance
from the sea, sharks are found in great abundance; and higher up,
alligators and the hippopotamus (or river-horse) are very numerous. The
latter might with more propriety be called the river-elephant, being of
an enormous and unwieldy bulk, and its teeth furnish good ivory. This
animal is amphibious, with short and thick legs, and cloven hoofs: it
feeds on grass, and such shrubs as the banks of the river afford, boughs
of trees, seldom venturing far from the water, in which it seeks refuge
on hearing the approach of man. I have seen many, and always found them
of a timid and inoffensive disposition.

In six days after leaving Vintain, we reached Jonkakonda, a place of
considerable trade, where our vessel was to take in part of her lading.
The next morning, the several European traders came from their different
factories to receive their letters and learn the nature and amount of the
cargo; and the captain dispatched a messenger to Dr. Laidley to inform him
of my arrival. He came to Jonkakonda the morning following, when I
delivered him Mr. Beaufoy's letter, and he gave me a kind invitation to
spend my time at his house until an opportunity should offer of
prosecuting my journey. This invitation was too acceptable to be refused,
and being furnished by the Doctor with a horse and guide, I set out from
Jonkakonda at daybreak on the 5th of July, and at eleven o'clock arrived
at Pisania, where I was accommodated with a room and other conveniences
in the Doctor's house.

Pisania is a small village in the King of Yany's dominions, established
by British subjects as a factory for trade, and inhabited solely by them
and their black servants. It is situated on the banks of the Gambia,
sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The white residents, at the time of my
arrival there, consisted only of Dr. Laidley and two gentlemen who were
brothers, of the name of Ainsley; but their domestics were numerous. They
enjoyed perfect security under the king's protection, and being highly
esteemed and respected by the natives at large, wanted no accommodation
or comfort which the country could supply; and the greatest part of the
trade in slaves, ivory, and gold, was in their hands.

Being now settled for some time at my ease, my first object was to learn
the Mandingo tongue, being the language in almost general use throughout
this part of Africa; and without which I was fully convinced that I never
could acquire an extensive knowledge of the country or its inhabitants.
In this pursuit I was greatly assisted by Dr. Laidley, who, by a long
residence in the country, and constant intercourse with the natives, had
made himself completely master of it. Next to the language, my great
object was to collect information concerning the countries I intended to
visit. On this occasion I was referred to certain traders called Slatees.
These are free black merchants, of great consideration in this part of
Africa, who come down from the interior countries chiefly with enslaved
negroes for sale; but I soon discovered that very little dependance could
be placed on the accounts they gave; for they contradicted each other in
the most important particulars, and all of them seemed extremely
unwilling that I should prosecute my journey. These circumstances
increased my anxiety to ascertain the truth from my own personal
observations.

In researches of this kind, and in observing the manners and customs of
the natives, in a country so little known to the nations of Europe, and
furnished with so many striking and uncommon objects of nature, my time
passed not unpleasantly; and I began to flatter myself that I had escaped
the fever, or seasoning, to which Europeans, on their first arrival in
hot climates, are generally subject. But, on the 3d of July, I
imprudently exposed myself to the night dew, in observing an eclipse of
the moon, with a view to determine the longitude of the place; the next
day I found myself attacked with a smart fever and delirium; and such an
illness followed, as confined me to the house during the greatest part of
August. My recovery was very slow; but I embraced every short interval of
convalescence to walk out and make myself acquainted with the productions
of the country. In one of those excursions, having rambled farther than
usual, in a hot day, I brought on a return of my fever, and on the 10th
of September I was again confined to my bed. The fever, however, was not
so violent as before; and in the course of three weeks I was able, when
the weather would permit, to renew my botanical excursions; and when it
rained, I amused myself with drawing plants, in my chamber. The care and
attention of Dr. Laidley contributed greatly to alleviate my sufferings;
his company and conversation beguiled the tedious hours during that
gloomy season, when the rain falls in torrents; when suffocating heats
oppress by day, and when the night is spent by the terrified traveller in
listening to the croaking of frogs, (of which the numbers are beyond
imagination,) the shrill cry of the jackal, and the deep howling of the
hyaena; a dismal concert, interrupted only by the roar of such tremendous
thunder as no person can form a conception of but those who have heard
it.

The country itself being an immense level, and very generally covered
with woods, presents a tiresome, and gloomy uniformity to the eye; but
although nature has denied to the inhabitants the beauties of romantic
landscapes, she has bestowed on them, with a liberal hand, the more
important blessings of fertility and abundance. A little attention to
cultivation procures a sufficiency of corn; the fields afford a rich
pasturage for cattle; and the natives are plentifully supplied with
excellent fish, both from the Gambia river and the Walli creek.

The grains which are chiefly cultivated are Indian corn, (_zea mays;_)
two kinds of _holcus spicatus_, called by the natives _soono_ and
_sanio_; _holcus niger_, and _holcus bicolor_; the former of which they
have named _bassi woolima_, and the latter _bassiqui_. These, together
with rice, are raised in considerable quantities; besides which, the
inhabitants in the vicinity of the towns and villages have gardens which
produce onions, calavances, yams, cassavi, ground-nuts, pompions, gourds,
water melons, and some other esculent plants.

I observed, likewise, near the towns, small patches of cotton and indigo.
The former of these articles supplies them with clothing, and with the
latter, they dye their cloth of an excellent blue colour, in a manner
that will hereafter be described.

In preparing their corn for food, the natives use a large wooden mortar
called a _paloon_, in which they bruise the seed until it parts with the
outer covering, or husk, which is then separated from the clean corn, by
exposing it to the wind; nearly in the same manner as wheat is cleared
from the chaff in England. The corn, thus freed from the husk, is
returned to the mortar, and beaten into meal; which is dressed variously
in different countries; but the most common preparation of it among the
nations of the Gambia is a sort of pudding, which they call _kouskous_.
It is made by first moistening the flour with water, and then stirring
and shaking it about in a large calabash, or gourd, till it adheres
together in small granules, resembling sago. It is then put into an
earthen pot, whose bottom is perforated with a number of small holes; and
this pot being placed upon another, the two vessels are luted together,
either with a paste of meal and water, or with cow's dung, and placed
upon the fire. In the lower vessel is commonly some animal food and
water, the steam or vapour of which ascends through the perforations in
the bottom of the upper vessel, and softens and prepares the _kouskous_,
which is very much esteemed throughout all the countries that I visited.
I am informed, that the same manner of preparing flour is very generally
used on the Barbary coast, and that the dish so prepared is there called
by the same name. It is therefore probable, that the Negroes borrowed the
practice from the Moors.

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33