Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa by Mungo Park

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The interest attached to his return was by no means confined to his
relations and friends--the public at large, whose sympathies had followed
the traveller on his arduous way, were gratified to learn that he had
again returned, after having made important discoveries, and tracked a
considerable portion of the course of the Niger. Rumours were also
current of his "hair-breadth 'scapes," and the lovers of novelty and
adventure were anxious to hear the particulars of his wanderings. The
African Association triumphed in the success of his mission, and were
proud that the assiduous diligence of Park had, under such unfavourable
circumstances, collected a mass of information which so far outweighed
the results of all previous expeditions, and that they could therefore
claim justly more support from the public. They gave a substantial proof
of their gratitude to Park, by permitting him to publish his travels for
his own benefit; and a complete narrative of his journey from his own pen
was speedily announced to be in preparation. An abstract, drawn up by Mr.
Bryan Edwards, from Park's Notes, was printed for private circulation
among the members of the Association in the meantime; it was also
enriched by a valuable Memoir by Major Rennel, on African Geography. This
publication afterwards formed the ground-work of the larger work, to the
quarto edition of which Major Kennel's narrative was also appended.

During the remainder of that winter Park resided in London, arranging the
materials of his work; he also required to be in constant communication
with the members of the Association, while the memoirs we have alluded to
were being drawn up. His engaging and unassuming manners gained him the
friendship of Mr. Edwards, to whose country residence at Southampton he
paid frequent visits. Repeated offers were made to him by Government, who
then wished to procure a complete survey of New Holland; but this scene
of action did not seem to present sufficient attractions to Park, for he
declined it.

In June 1798, Park went to Scotland, and visited his relations at
Fowlshiels, where he remained the whole of the ensuing summer and autumn.
Great must have been the joy of his relatives, when he, who had been
mourned for as dead, was again an inmate of their house. The fame which
he had earned in other quarters by his daring heroism, must have been
poor in value, compared with the admiration and interest with which his
tales were listened to beneath the domestic roof; and the expressions of
wonder which his adventures had extorted from strangers, must to his mind
have seemed tame and heartless, when he beheld the astonishment and
breathless interest depicted on the countenances, and glistening in the
eyes of the family circle. All this time he was employed upon his
travels, busying himself with his manuscripts almost the whole day, and
only indulging himself in the evenings with a solitary walk. The work was
difficult, and untried authorship he found almost as arduous as his
journeyings. He was unaccustomed to writing; his notes were imperfect and
scanty, so that he had frequently to draw upon memory; care, and
correction, and retrenchment were necessary to render his work worthy of
the interest which his adventures had excited; and he knew that it would
be carefully sifted by each of the two contending parties, who were on
the watch for information concerning the great controverted question of
the slave-trade, so that the utmost nicety and exactness were requisite
in stating the facts respecting it, which had fallen under his notice.
The long-expected work at length appeared in April 1799, in quarto, and
met with the greatest popularity. It was sought after with avidity, both
on account of the novelty and importance of the information comprised in
it, and the interesting manner in which the narrative was conducted. Two
large impressions were soon disposed of, and numerous smaller editions
and abridgments were from time to time called for. In a literary point of
view, the book is of rare merit; the style is clear, simple and direct;
and though the writer's personal adventures form the main topic, there is
no trace of ostentation or egotism. It bears all the marks of fidelity
and truthfulness, and has obtained the highest commendations from every
judge capable of forming an estimate of it.

The circumstance of a portion of Mr. Edwards' Narrative having been
incorporated into the Travels, and of Park's having acknowledged, in the
Preface, his obligations to that gentleman's revision, gave rise to an
unfounded report of his being the real author of the volume. This rumour,
however, has been long since rejected, both from the letters of Park,
published after Mr. Edwards' death, and also from the internal evidence
of the style, which presents a remarkable contrast to the elaborate and
ornate composition of Mr. Edwards' works.

There is another subject connected with the publication of his Travels,
which has excited too much discussion to permit us to pass it over in
silence; viz. his statements concerning the slave-trade. It has been
supposed, without any adequate ground, that Park's sentiments were
unfavourable to its abolition; but the strictly impartial nature and
neutral tone of his statements on this subject, were sufficiently proved
by the fact, that both parties confidently appealed to his pages, as
supporting their particular views. Besides, there is at least one passage
in the work which implies, that Park looked upon this iniquitous traffic
with no favourable eye; though he might not be convinced, upon the whole,
that the proper period had arrived for doing it away. And in justice to
his memory, it ought to be stated, that his nearest relatives and most
intimate friends had often heard him express himself strongly against the
system. All that the most scrutinizing reader can infer from these
passages, merely amounts to this, that some of the abolitionists, in
their generous zeal, might possibly have overrated the _immediate_ good
effect which the discontinuance of the practice would produce. Moreover,
it was no part of Park's business to enter upon a political or commercial
discussion on this subject, for his object was to give a clear and simple
account of his own observations, not to discuss other men's theories; and
both delicacy and propriety concurred in rendering such a course proper,
since Mr. Bryan Edwards, and some other members of the African
Association; to whose kind attention and patronage he owed so much, were
decided supporters of the slave-trade.

After the publication of his work, he at first seemed resolved to retire
into domestic and professional life; There had been an attachment of long
standing between him and a daughter of Mr. Anderson, with, whom he had
served his apprenticeship. The marriage had been settled the preceding
summer, and was only postponed till the publication of his Travels gave
him leisure for enjoying the pleasures of connubial happiness. If,
however, he had at any time formed the resolution of spending the
remainder of his days at home, his mind soon changed; for soon after, we
find him endeavouring, through various channels, to get his services
accepted, either by the Association, or by Government. He had frequent
communications with his steady friend, Sir Joseph Banks, upon this
subject; and no opportunity of qualifying himself still farther for such
an expedition was left unimproved. For two years he seemed not to have
fixed upon any determinate course of life; sometimes considering the
propriety of renting a form, and occasionally looking out for openings in
the medical profession. In the meantime, the profits derived from his
Travels secured him from want, and prevented him from proving burdensome
to his family. Unknown to them, he seems to have been employing every
means to get the master passion of his soul gratified; and he fondly
trusted that it would be shortly in his power to add to the discoveries
he had already made. He rejected a proposal made to him by Mr. Edwards,
to superintend his property in the West Indies, evidently cherishing the
hope of being again sent out by the African Association. About this time,
the capture of Goree seemed to open a communication with Central Africa,
and Park thought it a good opportunity for revisiting that country. He
wrote a letter to Sir Joseph Banks, expressing a confident hope of
success, provided the countenance of Government were obtained. His
proposal was not at that time accepted; and in a letter to Sir Joseph,
dated 31st July 1800, he thus writes,--"If such are the views of
Government, I hope that my exertions, in some station or other, may be of
use to my country. I have not yet found any situation in which I could
practise to advantage as a surgeon; and unless some of my friends
interest themselves in my behalf, I must wait patiently until the cloud
that hangs over my future prospects is dispelled." Evidently he could not
reconcile his taste either to farming, or to the dull and wearisome
drudgery of a country surgeon's life; in fact, he seemed altogether
discontented with his profession. But when he saw that his prospect of
employment by the Association was by no means certain, and might be long
deferred, he felt that, as an honest man, it was necessary to provide
some certain means of support for a wife and family. In October 1801, an
opening took place at Peebles, by the decease of one of the two regular
practitioners in that town: he settled there, and soon acquired a
practice which, if not particularly remunerating, was at least tolerably
extensive. He was surrounded by a pastoral, and, in some places,
uncultivated district; and had often to make long rides at night along
bad roads, to afford aid to those whose poverty did not allow them to
make any return for his skill and kindness. The rides of a country
surgeon, near an unfrequented district, are dreary and long; "he is at
the mercy of all who may demand his assistance within a circle of forty
miles in diameter, untraversed by roads in many directions, and including
moors, mountains, rivers, and lakes," generally for a very low
recompense, and sometimes for none at all.

Sir Walter Scott has so well described a country surgeon's miseries, that
we shall quote the passage, more especially as it bears particular
reference to Park:--"Like the ghostly lover of Leonora, he mounts at
midnight, and traverses in darkness paths which, to those less accustomed
to them, seem formidable in daylight, through straits where the slightest
aberration would plunge him into a morass, or throw him over a precipice,
on to cabins which his horse might ride over without knowing they lay in
his way, unless he happened to fall through the roofs. When he arrives at
such a stately termination of his journey, where his services are
required, either to bring a wretch into the world, or prevent one from
leaving it, the scene of misery is often such, that, far from touching
the hard saved shillings which are gratefully offered to him, he bestows
his medicines as well as his attendance--for charity. I have heard the
celebrated traveller Mungo Park, who had experienced both courses of
life, rather give the preference to travelling as a discoverer in Africa,
than to wandering, by night and day, the wilds of his native land in the
capacity of a country medical practitioner. He mentioned having once upon
a time rode forty miles, sat up all night, and successfully assisted a
woman under influence of the primitive curse, for which his sole
remuneration was a roasted potato and a draught of butter milk. But his
was not the heart which grudged the labour that relieved human misery. In
short, there is no creature in Scotland that works harder, and is more
poorly requited than the country doctor, unless, perhaps, it may be his
horse. Yet the horse is, and indeed must be, hardy, active, and
indefatigable, ever liable to be unpleasantly interrupted, in spite of a
rough coat and indifferent condition; and so you will often find in his
master, under an unpromising and blunt exterior, professional skill and
enthusiasm, intelligence humanity, courage, and science." Such was
certainly the character of Park: having himself experienced what it was
to suffer unrelieved, he was ready to sympathize with his suffering
fellow-creatures, and to endure every hardship and privation when
humanity called upon him to do so. But his liberality was a great enemy
to his purse, and for a considerable time, all he could do was barely
enough to earn a livelihood. Such difficulties every one, generally, who
enters upon this arduous profession must lay his account with. His
reputation as a discoverer, his modest and unassuming character, and the
propriety of his conduct, however, gained Park many friends, some of whom
were literary men of great eminence, such as Adam Ferguson and Dugald
Stewart. In addition to the honour of attracting the notice of men so
gifted in intellectual endowments, he was also on the best terms with
many of the neighbouring gentry,--among others, with Sir Walter Scott,
who had not then attained that high place among his contemporaries which
he afterwards held. He had also formed many acquaintances in a humbler
rank of life,--men of shrewdness and sagacity, in whose homely
conversation Park felt much pleasure. He enrolled himself a member of a
volunteer corps raised in the district, and proved a great acquisition to
the mess-table. One thing was remarkable about Park, that, go where he
would, he never introduced his own adventures, seldom ever answering
queries concerning them, unless when asked by intimate friends. He shewed
the true modesty of a brave man, in never reminding those around him that
he had overcome great perils and distresses. Yet those who knew him best,
describe him as always apparently cherishing a secret purpose in his
bosom. His mind, in fact, seems never to have been diverted from its
grand purpose; it was directed to the prospect of adding yet more claims
to the notice of posterity: hence, he could neither bring himself down
patiently to the ordinary routine of common-place life, nor take a great
interest in the feelings and pursuits of the society with which he
mingled. Often would his thoughts be wafted across the ocean to the
burning deserts of Africa, and directed to the prospect of tracing out
the windings of the mysterious Niger.

About this time, by the advice of Sir Joseph Banks, he became a candidate
for the Botanical Chair at Edinburgh, vacant by the decease of Dr.
Rutherford. In his efforts to obtain the appointment he failed. This
circumstance probably hastened his determination of again setting out for
Africa; and, in 1803, a favourable opportunity seemed to be afforded. He
received a letter from the Colonial Office, requiring his immediate
presence in London. He had an interview with Lord Hobart, then Colonial
Secretary, who informed him that it was the intention of Government to
organize an expedition for discovery in Africa, to be placed under his
superintendence. This proposal was exactly what Park wished; the subject,
in all its bearings, had been considered by him in almost hourly
meditations; he resolved inwardly to accept the proposal, but asked a
brief space to consult his family and friends. He returned immediately to
Scotland, and again journeying to London, at once closed with the offer,
and proceeded to make his preparations, expecting in a few weeks to set
sail for Africa. But the usual delays of office took place, and the
expedition was only announced to sail from Portsmouth about the end of
February. Before that period arrived, the impatient traveller was
mortified to find that the important political changes which were then in
agitation would at least defer, if not altogether destroy his projects.
This blow was the more severe, as the stores and troops had been already
embarked.

Mr. Pitt was made First Commissioner of the Treasury, and Chancellor of
the Exchequer in May. When the commotion caused by this change had
subsided a little, Government was able to direct its attention to
subjects less immediately pressing, and among the rest, to African
discovery. Park received an intimation from the Colonial Office, that the
intention of sending out an expedition had by no means been lost sight
of; and, in the meantime, he was advised to direct his particular
attention to those branches of knowledge which might facilitate the
undertaking, with the understanding that all necessary expenses would be
defrayed. The earliest period at which he could possibly set out was
September, and he determined diligently to improve the interval. He
chiefly directed his attention to the method of taking astronomical
observations, and to the study of the Arabic language. For the latter
purpose, he engaged a native of Mogadore, Sidi Omback Boubi, who then
resided in London, and had served as the interpreter to Elphi Bey, the
Mameluke ambassador from Cairo, to accompany him to Scotland. Park and
his oriental companion arrived at Peebles in March, and resided there
till about the middle of May; he then removed to Fowlshiels, where he
remained till the expected summons from the Secretary of State should
reach him. Sidi Omback appeared quite a phenomenon to the inhabitants of
Peebles. He was a firm adherent of the Mahometan faith, and scrupulous to
an excess; observing rigidly the Prophet's prohibitions respecting wine
and spirits, and eating no meat which had not been killed by his own
hand. The method in which he performed this operation was somewhat
peculiar:--having stalked solemnly into the market, and pitched upon his
animal, he turned its head towards the east, muttered over it a short
prayer, and then cut off its head, rejecting the blood as unclean. He had
the greatest aversion to prints and paintings, and nearly stabbed a young
man who was bold enough to take a sketch of his peculiar visage. He
punctually performed his devotions according to the fashion of his own
country, and professed to be a great interpreter of dreams and omens. In
one instance, he proved a true prophet, for he said more than once, that
if Park went a second time to Africa, he would never return; and though
urgently requested by Park to join the expedition, he refused.

When Sir Walter Scott first became acquainted with Park, he was living in
seclusion at the farm of Fowlshiels, nearly opposite Newark Castle. They
soon became much attached to each other; and Scott supplied some
interesting anecdotes of their brief intercourse to the late Mr. Wishaw,
the editor of Park's posthumous Journal, with which, says Mr. Lockhart, I
shall blend a few minor circumstances which I gathered from him in
conversation long afterwards. "On one occasion," he says, "the traveller
communicated to him some very remarkable adventures which had befallen
him in Africa, but which he had not recorded in his book." On Scott's
asking the cause of this silence, Mungo answered, "That in all cases
where he had information to communicate which he thought of importance to
the public, he had stated the facts boldly, leaving it to his readers to
give such credit to his statements as they might appear justly to
deserve; but that he would not shock their faith, or render his travels
more marvellous, by introducing circumstances which, however true, were
of little or no moment, as they related solely to his own personal
adventures and escapes," This reply struck Scott as highly characteristic
of the man; and though strongly tempted to set down some of these marvels
for Mr. Wishaw's use, he, on reflection, abstained from doing so, holding
it unfair to record what the adventurer had deliberately chosen to
suppress in his own narrative. He confirms the account given by Park's
biographer of his cold and reserved manners to strangers, and in
particular, of his disgust with the _indirect_ questions which curious
visitors would often put to him upon the subject of his travels. "This
practice," said Mungo, "exposes me to two risks,--either that I may not
understand the questions meant to be put, or that my answers to them may
be misconstrued;" and he contrasted such conduct with the frankness of
Scott's revered friend, Dr. Adam Ferguson, who, the very first day the
traveller dined with him at Hallyards, spread a large map of Africa on
the table, and made him trace out his progress thereupon, inch by inch,
questioning him minutely as to every step he had taken. "Here, however,"
says Scott, "Dr. F. was using a privilege to which he was well entitled
by his venerable age and high literary character, but which could not
have been exercised with propriety by any common stranger."

Calling one day at Fowlshiels, and not finding Park at home, Scott walked
in search of him along the banks of the Yarrow, which in that
neighbourhood passes over various ledges of rock, forming deep pools and
eddies between them. Presently he discovered his friend standing alone on
the bank, plunging one stone after another into the water, and watching
anxiously the bubbles as they rose to the surface. "This," said Scott,
"appears but an idle amusement for one who has seen so much stirring
adventure." "Not so idle, perhaps, as you suppose," answered Mungo. "This
was the manner in which I used to ascertain the depth of a river in
Africa before I ventured to cross it, judging whether the attempt would
be safe by the time the bubbles of air took to ascend." At this time,
Park's intention of a second expedition had never been revealed to Scott,
but he instantly formed the opinion that these experiments on Yarrow were
connected with some such purpose.

His thoughts had always continued to be haunted with Africa. He told
Scott, that whenever he awoke suddenly in the night, owing to a nervous
disorder with which he was troubled, he fancied himself still a prisoner
in the tent of Ali; but when the Poet expressed some surprise that he
should design again to revisit those scenes, he answered, that he would
rather brave Africa and all its horrors, than wear out his life in long
and toilsome rides over the hills of Scotland, for which the remuneration
was hardly enough to keep soul and body together.

Towards the end of autumn, when about to quit his country for the last
time, Park paid Scott a farewell visit, and slept at Ashestiel. Next
morning his host accompanied him homewards over the wild chain of hills
between the Tweed and the Yarrow. Park talked much of the new scheme, and
mentioned his determination to tell his family that he had some business
for a day or two in Edinburgh, and send them his blessing from thence,
without returning to take leave. He had married, not long before, a
pretty, amiable woman; and when they reached the _William Hope Ridge_,
"the autumnal mist floating heavily and slowly down the valley of the
Yarrow," presented to Scott's imagination "a striking emblem of the
troubled and uncertain prospect which his undertaking afforded." He
remained, however, unshaken; and at length they reached the spot at which
they had agreed to separate. A small ditch divided the moor from the
road, and, in going over it, Park's horse stumbled, and nearly fell. "I
am afraid, Mungo," said the Sheriff, "that is a bad omen." To which he
answered, smiling, "_Freits_ (omens) follow those who look to them." With
this expression Mungo struck the spurs into his horse, and Scott never
saw him again. His parting proverb, by the way, was probably suggested by
one of the Border ballads, in which species of lore he was almost as
great a proficient as the Sheriff himself; for we read in "Edom o'
Gordon,"--"Them look to freits, my master dear. Then freits will follow
them."[26]

[26] Lockhart's Life of Scott, Vol. II.

In the beginning of September, Park received the summons from the
Colonial Office, and had a satisfactory interview with Lord Camden. He
had previously, at Lord Camden's request, given in to him a memorial,
comprising a statement of his views concerning the objects of the
expedition, the means which he would require for his purpose, and the
manner in which the plans of Government were to be carried into
execution. The object of his journey. Park stated to be the extension of
British commerce, and the enlargement of geographical knowledge;
particular attention was to be paid to the state of the interior, the
course of the Niger, and the character and situation of the towns upon
its banks. The means Park requested were thirty European soldiers, six
carpenters, fifteen or twenty Goree negroes, fifty asses, and six horses
or mules. Each man was to be provided with gun, pistols, and suitable
clothing. He gave in also a list of other articles which he required,
comprising harness and equipments for the asses, carpenters tools, and
cordage, with other stores, for building two boats of forty feet length,
to sail down the Niger, and a number of articles of commerce to procure
supplies from the natives, and for presents to their chiefs, such as
coloured cloth, amber, gold, and glass beads, arms and ammunition,
mirrors, knives, scissors, &c. Park's proposed route was to proceed up
the Gambia, cross the country to the Niger, when they were to sail down
the river till they came to its termination. If, as Park supposed, in
place of being lost, according to Major Rennel's theory, in some
imaginary lake called Margara, it took a southerly direction, and might
prove to be the river Congo; it was his intention to embark on board some
slave-ship, and return, either by the way of St. Helena or the West
Indies. Major Rennel earnestly advised Park against the expedition, but
without success, and indeed, upon the Major's theory, the plan was
utterly impracticable. Some have censured Park for going on an
expedition, which at the outset was pronounced to be hopeless; and these
"prophets of evil" claimed abundant credit for their sagacity. But Park
had made up his mind, and was not to be turned aside from his purpose.
Fatally confident, as the event proved, in his own resources, he was not
to be daunted by the formidable array of difficulties which he must have
well known he would have to face; and though somewhat disheartened for a
time by these representations, he was consoled by the approbation of Sir
Joseph Banks, and other scientific men.

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