Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa by Mungo Park

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On either bank of the river were ridges of rocky hills, which rapidly
became more and more contracted; at length they came to a cataract, where
its channel was almost entirely blocked up by the fall of huge fragments
of granite. The boats could go no farther, nor could they be carried over
the hills and deep ravines. The party were compelled to proceed by land,
and without a guide. They had frequently to sleep in the open air, the
evil effect of which soon became apparent in the sickness of the party.
At length, just when their progress became easier, on account of the
country being much more level, their health was so much injured, that
several of the principal members of the expedition were compelled to
return to the ship. Captain Tuckey, who had suffered much from fever,
felt a like necessity. At this crisis the baggage canoe sunk with the
greater part of their utensils on board; the natives continually annoyed
them, and seized every opportunity of plundering. They had great
difficulty in returning to the shore. Most of the naturalists died of
fever; and Captain Tuckey was cut off after reaching the coast.

The Niger expedition, consisting of 100 men, and 200 animals, was
commanded by Major Peddie. They sailed from the Senegal, and landed at
Kacundy. Major Peddie died before they set out, and the command devolved
on Captain Campbell. Before they had proceeded 150 miles from Kacundy,
the chief of the Foulahs obstructed their progress much, under pretence
of a war. A long time was lost in fruitless negociations; during which,
most of the beasts of burden died. They were compelled to return; and
Captain Campbell soon after died from vexation and disappointment.

In 1818, Captain Gray attempted to proceed by Park's route along the
Gambia; but being detained by the chief of Bondou, came back as soon as
he was released.

Undismayed by these repeated failures, the British Government still
endeavoured to promote the cause of African discovery. The Bashaw of
Tripoli, who had great influence with the inhabitants of Bornou, and the
other great African states, seemed favourable to the object, and promised
his protection. Mr. Ritchie was sent out, accompanied by Lieutenant Lyon
of the navy. In March 1819, they reached Fezzan. The sultan, who had
acquired great wealth by the slave-trade, deluded them with promises of
protection. Here they were detained by illness the whole summer. Mr.
Ritchie died on the 20th November 1819: and Mr. Lyon, after collecting a
little information concerning Fezzan, resolved to retrace his steps.

CHAPTER XXXI.

_Denham and Clapperton's Journey_.

Government resolved to send an expedition to Tripoli, across the Great
Desert, to Bornou, confiding in the friendly disposition of the Bashaw of
Tripoli, whose influence extended over a large part of Central Africa.
Major Denham, Lieutenant Clapperton of the Navy, and Dr. Oudney, a naval
surgeon, who possessed considerable knowledge of natural history, were
selected for this mission. They reached Tripoli about the middle of
November 1821, and were presented to the Bashaw, whom they found sitting
cross-legged on a carpet, surrounded by his guards; he ordered
refreshments to be brought, and afterwards invited them to attend a
hawking party.

On the 8th April 1822, they arrived at Mourzouk, and were civilly
received by the potentate of that place, who however did not shew any
great zeal in forwarding their arrangements. After various delays, Major
Denham returned to Tripoli to remonstrate with the Bashaw; and not
getting any satisfactory reply from him, set sail for England; but was
stopped at Marseilles, by a vessel sent by the Bashaw, to announce that
an agreement had been entered into with Boo Khaloom, a wealthy merchant,
who intended to travel across the Desert, and had promised to escort the
travelers.

Boo Khaloom was a favourable specimen of that peculiar race, the Arab
caravan-merchants. The Arab trader travels with his merchandise over the
greater part of a continent; his home is wherever the human foot can
wander; he is exposed to the inhospitable desert and the burning sky. He
must be prepared to defend his property against the roving bands of
plunderers, and proceed at the head of a detachment of troops. Confiding
in the strength of his forces, and in reprisal of attacks, he is too
often tempted to add the gains of robbery to those of merchandise. He is
a slave dealer, and organizes expeditions to seize his unfortunate
victims. As the value of his goods is much heightened by conveyance
across the desert, in a few successful journeys he may acquire great
wealth and influence. He is a staunch Mahometan, and enslaves only the
enemies of the Prophet. He is fond of display, and when his wealth
abounds, emulates almost princely splendour. Boo Khaloom had some
virtue,--he was free from bigotry, and even humane for a slave-dealer,
and he was of a generous and honourable nature.

Major Denham travelled along a dreary route till he came to Sockna, into
which place Boo Khaloom resolved to enter in becoming state. He rode at
the head of his party on a beautiful white Tunisian horse, the saddle and
housings of which were ornamented with gold, attired in robes of rich
silk covered with embroidery. On the 30th December, Major Denham arrived
at Mourzouk, and was distressed to find his two companions much
indisposed. They set out from Mourzouk along with the caravan; the party
consisted of 210 Arabs, commanded by their respective chiefs, who cheered
the monotony of the way by tales and songs. The road lay along a sandy
uneven soil highly impregnated with salt, the track being worn down by
the footsteps of caravans. In these dreary regions no sound either of
insect or of bird was heard. After they left Mourzouk, the eye was
relieved at great distances, by the sight of small towns, situated in the
oases, or watered valleys, the lofty palm-trees of which served to guide
them. But these became gradually fewer, and after leaving Bilma, they
travelled for thirteen days without coming to any resting-place. During
the day the sun beat intensely upon them; but the nights were still and
beautiful. Cool and refreshing breezes played around the encampment, and
the moon and stars shone with great brilliancy. A soft couch was found by
removing the--sand to the depth of a few inches.

Soon after the desert presented horrors of a peculiar kind. The ground
was strewed with skeletons, sometimes fifty or sixty together. Fragments
of flesh and hair were still upon some of them. They were slaves whom
their conquerors had abandoned on finding their provisions run short. Two
female skeletons were found twined together,--they had expired in each
other's arms. One day Major Denham was roused from a reverie, by the
sound caused by a skeleton crackling under his horses hoofs. The Arabs
aimed blows at the limbs with their muskets, jesting at these melancholy
remains of mortality.

Their road lay between the two tribes of Tibboos and Tuaricks, and they
passed through the villages and settlements of the former. The Tibboos
carry on a traffic between Mourzouk and Bournou, and subsist chiefly on
camel's milk. They are of a gay disposition, and delight in dancing and
singing. Though black, they have not the negro features; and Denham says
that the females have some pretensions to beauty. They live in constant
dread of the Tuaricks, who often make hostile ravages upon them. The
unresisting and peaceful Tibboos, on their approach fly with their goods
to the summit of the rocks. The Tuaricks, again, in spite of their
constant feuds with the Tibboos, are hospitable and kind to strangers.
Though a wandering horde, and professing to look with contempt on all who
cultivate the soil, they are yet the only African tribe who possess an
alphabet; and they inscribe their records upon the faces of dark rocks
and stones.

About a mile from the little town of Bilma, the capital of the Tibboos,
they came to a spring of water surrounded by green turf, the last spot of
verdure they saw for thirteen days. They passed over loose hillocks of
sand, into which the camels sank knee-deep. Some of these hills were from
twenty to sixty feet in height, with almost perpendicular sides. The
drivers use great care as the animals slide down these banks; they hang
with all their weight upon the tails, to steady their descent; otherwise
they would fall forward, and cast their burdens over their heads. Dark
sand-stone ridges form the only landmarks among these billows of sand.

After a fortnight's travelling, vegetation once more appeared, in the
form of scattered clumps of herbage and stunted shrubs, the leaves of
which were most acceptable to the camels. Herds of gazelles crossed the
path, hyenas abounded, and the footsteps of the ostrich were perceived.
As they went on, the face of the country improved, the valleys became
greener, and the colocynth and the kosom, with its red flowers, were in
full bloom, "The freshness of the air, with the melody of the songsters
that were perched among the creeping plants, whose flowers diffused an
aromatic odour, formed a delightful contrast to the desolate region
through which they had passed." In the neighbourhood was a tribe--of the
Gunda Tiboos, who supported themselves and their horses chiefly on
camels' milk. The chief of this people was quite delighted by a coarse
scarlet robe and a small, mirror with which he was presented. During the
march, the natives committed several thefts upon the caravan, the members
of which in their turn could hardly be prevented from making reprisals.
At length they reached Lari, in the province of Kanem, the most northern
part of Bornou,--a place containing two thousand inhabitants, who dwell
in huts constructed of rushes, with conical tops. They had now reached an
important stage on their journey; for "the great lake Tchad, glowing with
the golden rays of the sun in its strength," appeared within a mile of
the elevated spot on which they stood. Next morning, Major Denham
hastened to the banks of this great inland sea. The shore was covered
with multitudes of water-fowl, which were so tame that they were not the
least alarmed by his presence. The lake swarmed with fish, which the
females caught easily by wading in a short way, and then driving them
before them to land.

They travelled by the margin of the lake, and came to a large town called
Woodie, which was inhabited by an exclusively negro population. In a few
days, an invitation was sent to them to visit the shiek of Bornou, at
Kouka. On their way, they passed the Yeou, a stream about fifty yards
broad, which flows into the lake. Two canoes, constructed of planks
fastened together with cords, and capable of holding about thirty men in
each, lay upon the banks, for the transport of goods and passengers. The
camels and horses swam across with their heads tied to the boats.

Three days afterwards, they arrived at Kouka, where the shiek of Bornou
resided. As they emerged from the forest which skirts the town, they saw
a large body of cavalry drawn up in lines on each side of the road, as
far as the eye could reach. As the Arab troops approached, the horsemen
of Bornou raised loud shouts, accompanied by the clamour of their rude
martial instruments. They then, in detached troops, galloped up to the
Arabs, and suddenly wheeled about, crying, "Blessing! blessing! sons of
your country! sons of your country!" shaking the spears over their heads.
The Bornouese crowded close upon them, and almost prevented them from
moving, till Barca Gana, the shiek's generalissimo, rode up upon a fine
Mandara steed, and ordered his troops to fall back. After some delay,
they were ushered into the presence of the chief of Bornou. He sat upon a
carpet, in a small dark room, which was ornamented with weapons of war,
and was plainly attired in a blue gown and shawl turban. He seemed to be
about forty-six years of age; his countenance was open, and conveyed the
idea of mildness and benevolence. He inquired, "What was their object in
coming?" They answered, "To see the country, and to give an account of
its inhabitants, produce, and appearance, as their sultan was desirous of
knowing every part of the globe." He replied that they were welcome, and
that he would give them every facility. He assigned to them some huts,
which they had no sooner entered than they were much incommoded by crowds
of visitors. They were most liberally supplied with provisions; besides
bullocks, camel loads of wheat and rice, butter, and honey, they had a
daily allowance of rice mixed with meat, and paste made of barley flour.
On a second interview, they delivered to the sheik the present intended
for him; he examined the gun and brace of pistols attentively, and seemed
much pleased with them. He was delighted when he was told that his fame
had reached the king of England, and said, "This must be in consequence
of our having defeated the Begharmies;" and one of his most distinguished
chiefs asked, "Did he ever hear of me?" "Certainly," was the reply; and
all the court exclaimed, "Oh, the king of England must be a great man!"
The sheik was much gratified by the present of a musical snuff-box, of
which he had previously expressed strong admiration. The whole populace
were afterwards gratified by a discharge of sky-rockets.

On the 2d March, the travellers set out to Birnie, to visit the sultan.
At this court it was the fashion for the grandees to emulate each other
in rotundity, and when the desired result could not be attained by high
feeding, they used wadding, and in spite of the sultry climate, put on a
vast number of garments, one over another. Surrounded by three hundred of
these great men, sat the sultan, enclosed in a species of cane basket
covered with silk, his features scarcely discernible beneath his huge
turban. The presents were received in silence.

The travellers departed for Kouka, passing Angornou, a city containing
thirty thousand inhabitants. The market of Angornou is held in the open
air, and is attended by immense crowds; the principal articles sold are
grain, bullocks, sheep, and fowls, together with amber, coral, and brass;
also young lions, which are kept as domestic pets.

The kingdom of Bornou is of great extent. Its chief physical feature is
the lake Tchad, which is about 200 miles in length, and 150 in breadth,
and is one of the largest bodies of fresh water in the world, second only
in extent to the great inland seas of America. Its dimensions vary
according to the season; and during the rains, many miles of territory
previously dry, are submerged. This tract, covered with dense thickets,
and rank grass twice the height of a man, is the habitation of wild
beasts, "abounding with elephants of enormous dimensions, beneath whose
reclining bodies large shrubs, and even young trees were seen crushed;
tenanted also by lions, panthers, leopards, large flocks of hyenas, and
snakes of enormous bulk." These monsters of the wood are driven from
their fastnesses by the advancing waters, and seek their prey among the
dwellings of the natives. "At this period, travellers, and the persons
employed in watching the harvest, often fall victims; nay, the hyenas
have been known to carry walled towns by storm, and devour the herds
which had been driven into them for shelter."

The soil of Bornou is fertile, and though only turned up by the hoe,
yields pretty good crops of the small grain called _gussub_. Vast herds
of cattle abound. The only manufacture in which the people can be said to
excel, is that of cotton cloth died blue with indigo; pieces of which
constitute the current coin. The natives have the negro features in their
full deformity; they are simple, good-natured, ignorant, and fond of
wrestling and gaming. The military force is almost entirely composed of
cavalry, many of whom are well mounted, and defended by coats of mail.

Boo Khaloom had brought with him an extensive assortment of goods, which
he found he could not sell at Bornou. He therefore wished to dispose of
them at Soudan; but his followers were most anxious that he should make a
warlike excursion to the south, for the purpose of driving in a large
body of slaves. He reluctantly, and against his better judgment,
consented to proceed to the mountains of Mandara, and Major Denham,
against the advice of the sheikh, resolved to accompany the party, whose
numbers and strength were augmented by a large body of Bornou cavalry,
under the command of Barca Gana, the chief general.

They set out along an ascending road, which wound through a fertile
country, and passed several populous towns. The way was rough, and
overhung by the branches of the prickly _tulloh_, so that pioneers had to
go before with long poles to clear away obstructions. The troops sang the
praises of Barca Gana, crying, "Who is in battle like the rolling of
thunder? Barca Gana. In battle, who spreads terror around him like the
buffalo in his rage? Barca Gana." They soon reached the kingdom and
mountains of Mandara. In the valley are situated eight large and a number
of smaller towns, which are overhung by the mountains, the recesses of
which are inhabited by a numerous and barbarous tribe, called Kerdies or
Pagans, whom the Arabs and Bornouese consider as only fit to be enslaved.
The dwellings of this unfortunate people were visible in clusters upon
the sides and tops of the hills which tower above the Mandingo capital.
"The fires which were visible in the different nests of these
unfortunates, threw a glare upon the bold peaks and bluff promontories of
granite rock by which they were surrounded, and produced a picturesque
and somewhat awful appearance." The inhabitants of these wild regions
were clothed in the spoils of the chace, and subsisted chiefly on wild
fruits, honey, and fish. They knew the object of this expedition, and so
soon as they saw the advance of the hostile army, parties came down with
peace-offerings of leopard skins, honey, and slaves. The sultan of
Mandara used all his influence to persuade Boo Khaloom to attack some
strong Fellatah posts, and the latter unfortunately consented; his
followers were eager for the attack, the prospect of booty being held out
to them.

After passing through a verdant plain, they entered the heart of the
mountains, and every point as they advanced, disclosed to them heights of
rugged magnificence. The valleys were clothed with bright and luxuriant
verdure, and flowering parasitical plants wound along the trunks of
spreading trees. This beautiful spot, however, abounded in scorpions and
panthers. Next day they approached the Fellatah town of Dirkulla. Boo
Khaloom and his Arabs, with Barca Gana, and one hundred of his bravest
warriors, began the attack, while the rest hung behind, awaiting the
issue of the conflict. The Arabs gallantly carried two posts, and killed
many of the enemy. But the undaunted Fellatahs recovering from their
surprise, entrenched themselves within a strongly fortified place farther
up the hills, called Musfeia, in front of which were swamps and
palisades. The greater part of the soldiers remained without the range of
the arrows of the Fellatahs; who, being joined by fresh troops, and
seeing that their assailants were few in number, advanced to the attack,
discharging showers of poisoned arrows. Most of the Arabs were hurt;
their horses staggered under them; Boo Khaloom and his charger received
wounds which afterwards proved to be mortal. The Fellatah horse, taking
advantage of their confusion, dashed in amongst them; "and the chivalry
of Bornou and Mandara spurred their steeds to the most rapid flight."
Major Denham found himself in a desperate predicament. As the account of
his escape is one of the most interesting narratives of personal
adventure which we have ever read, we shall extract it in his own
words:--

"I now for the first time, as I saw Barca Gana on a fresh horse, lamented
my own folly in so exposing myself, badly prepared as I was for
accidents. If my horse's wounds were from poisoned arrows, I felt that
nothing could save me: however there was not much time for reflection. We
instantly became a flying mass, and plunged, in great disorder, into the
wood we had but a few hours before moved through with order, and very
different feelings. I had got a little to the westward of Barca Gana, in
the confusion which took place on our passing the ravine which had been
left just on our rear, and where upwards of 100 of the Bornouese were
speared by the Fellatahs, and was following at a round gallop the steps
of one of the Mandara eunuchs, who I observed kept a good look out, his
head being constantly turned over his left shoulder, with, a face
expressive of the greatest dismay--when the cries behind of the Fellatah
horse pursuing, made us both quicken our paces. The spur however had the
effect of incapacitating my beast altogether, as the arrow I found
afterwards had reached the shoulder bone, and in passing over some rough
ground he stumbled and fell. Almost before I was on my legs, the
Fellatahs were upon me; I had however, kept hold of the bridle, and
seizing a pistol from the holsters, I presented it at two of the
ferocious savages, who were pressing me with their spears: they instantly
went off; but another who came on me more boldly, just as I was
endeavouring to mount, received the contents somewhere in his left
shoulder, and again I was enabled to place my foot in the stirrup.
Remounted, I again pushed my retreat; I had not, however, proceeded many
hundred yards, when my horse again came down with such violence as to
throw me against a tree at a considerable distance; and alarmed at the
horses behind him, he quickly got up and escaped, leaving me on foot and
unarmed.

"The eunuch and his four followers were here butchered, after a very
slight resistance, and stripped within a few yards of me: their cries
were dreadful; and even now, the feelings of that moment are fresh in my
memory. My hopes of life were too faint to deserve the name. I was almost
instantly surrounded, and incapable of making the least resistance, as I
was unarmed, was as speedily stript; and whilst attempting first to save
my shirt and then my trowsers, I was thrown on the ground. My pursuers
made several thrusts at me with their spears, that badly wounded my hands
in two places, and slightly my body, just under my ribs, on the right
side. Indeed, I saw nothing before me but the same cruel death I had seen
unmercifully inflicted on the few who had fallen into the power of those
who now had possession of me; and they were only prevented from murdering
me, in the first instance, I am persuaded, by the fear of injuring the
value of my clothes, which appeared to them a rich booty,--but it was
otherwise ordained.

"My shirt was now absolutely torn off my back, and I was left perfectly
naked. When my plunderers began to quarrel for the spoil, the idea of
escape came like lightning across my mind, and without a moment's
hesitation or reflection, I crept under the belly of the horse nearest
me, and started as fast as my legs could carry me for the thickest part
of the wood. Two of the Fellatahs followed, and I ran on to the eastward,
knowing that our stragglers would be in that direction, but still almost
as much afraid of friends as foes. My pursuers gained on me, for the
prickly underwood not only obstructed my passage, but tore my flesh
miserably; and the delight with which I saw a mountain stream gliding
along at the bottom of a deep ravine cannot be imagined. My strength had
almost left me, and I seized the young branches issuing from the stump of
a large tree which overhung the ravine, for the purpose of letting myself
down into the water, as the sides were precipitous; when under my hand,
as the branch yielded to the weight of my body, a large _liffa_, the
worst kind of serpent this country produces, rose from its coil as if in
the very act of striking. I was horror-struck, and deprived for a moment
of all recollection--the branch slipped from my hand, and I tumbled
headlong into the water beneath; this shock, however, revived me, and
with three strokes of my arms I reached the opposite bank, which with
difficulty I crawled up, and then, for the first time, felt myself safe
from my pursuers.

"I now saw horsemen through the trees still farther to the east, and
determined on reaching them if possible, whether friends or enemies; and
the feelings of gratitude and joy with which I recognized Barca Gana and
Boo Khaloom, with about six Arabs, although they also were pressed
closely by a party of the Fellatahs, was beyond description. The guns and
pistols of the Arab shiekhs kept the Fellatahs in check, and assisted in
some measure the retreat of the footmen, I hailed them with all my might,
but the noise and confusion which prevailed from the cries of those who
were falling under the Fellatah spears, the cheers of the Arabs rallying,
and their enemies pursuing, would have drowned all attempts to make
myself heard, had not Maramy, the shiekh's negro, seen and known me at a
distance. To this man I was indebted for my second escape; riding up to
me, he assisted me to mount behind him, while the arrows whistled over
our heads; and we then galloped off to the rear as fast as his wounded
horse could carry us. After we had gone a mile or two, and the pursuit
had something cooled, in consequence of all the baggage having been
abandoned to the enemy. Boo Khaloom rode up to me, and desired one of the
Arabs to cover me with a bornouse. This was a most welcome relief, for
the burning sun had already begun to blister my neck and back, and gave
me the greatest pain. Shortly after, the effects of the poisoned wound in
his foot caused our excellent friend to breathe his last. Maramy
exclaimed, 'Look, look! Boo Khaloom is dead!' I turned my head, almost as
great an exertion as I was capable of, and saw him drop from the horse
into the arms of his favourite Arab; he never spoke after. They said he
had only swooned; there was no water, however, to revive him, and about
an hour after, when we came to Makkeray, he was past the reach of
restoratives.

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