Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 by Samuel de Champlain

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260. _Vide antea_, note 258.

261. The implacable character of the American Indian is well illustrated in
this skirmish which took place at Saco. The old chief Mabretou, whose
life had been prolonged through several generations, had inspired his
allies to revenge, and had been present at the conflict. The Indian
Panounias had been killed in an affray, the particular cause of which
is not stated. To avenge his death, many lives were lost on both
sides. The two chiefs of Saco were slain, and in turn the author of
their death perished by the hand of their friends. Lescarbot informs
us that Champdore, under Poutrincourt, subsequently visited Saco, and
concluded a formal peace between the belligerent parties, emphasizing
its importance by impressive forms, and ceremonies.

CHAPTER XVII.

THE SETTLEMENT ABANDONED.--RETURN TO FRANCE OF SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT AND
ALL HIS COMPANY.

On the 11th of August, we set out from our settlement in a shallop, and
coasted along as far as Cape Fourchu, where I had previously been.

Continuing our course along the coast as far as Cap de la Heve, where we
first landed with Sieur de Monts, on the 8th of May, 1604, [262] we
examined the coast from this place as far as Canseau, a distance of nearly
sixty leagues. This I had not yet done, and I observed it very carefully,
making a map of it as of the other coasts.

Departing from Cap de la Heve, we went as far as Sesambre, an island so
called by some people from St. Malo, [263] and distant fifteen leagues from
La Heve. Along the route are a large number of islands, which we named Les
Martyres, [264] since some Frenchmen were once killed there by the savages.
These islands lie in several inlets and bays. In one of them is a river
named St. Marguerite, [265] distant seven leagues from Sesambre, which is
in latitude 44 deg. 25'. The islands and coasts are thickly covered with pines,
firs, birches, and other trees of inferior quality. Fish and also fowl are
abundant.

After leaving Sesambre, we passed a bay which is unobstructed, of seven or
eight leagues in extent, with no islands except at the extremity, where is
the mouth of a small river, containing but little water. [266] Then,
heading north-east a quarter east, we arrived at a harbor distant eight
leagues from Sesambre, which is very suitable for vessels of a hundred or a
hundred and twenty tons. At its entrance is an island from which one can
walk to the main land at low tide. We named this place Port Saincte
Helaine, [267] which is in latitude 44 deg. 40' more or less.

From this place we proceeded to a bay called La Baye de Toutes Isles, [268]
of some fourteen or fifteen leagues in extent, a dangerous place on account
of the presence of banks, shoals, and reefs. The country presents a very
unfavorable appearance, being filled with the same kind of trees which I
have mentioned before. Here we encountered bad weather.

Hence we passed on near a river, six leagues distant, called Riviere de
l'Isle Verte,[269] there being a green island at its entrance. This short
distance which we traversed is filled with numerous rocks extending nearly
a league out to sea, where the breakers are high, the latitude being 45 deg.
15'.

Thence we went to a place where there is an inlet, with two or three
islands, and a very good harbor, [270] distant three leagues from l'Isle
Verte. We passed also by several islands near and in a line with each
other, which we named Isles Rangees, [271] and which are distant six or
seven leagues from l'Isle Verte. Afterwards we passed by another bay [272]
containing several islands, and proceeded to a place where we found a
vessel engaged in fishing between some islands, which are a short distance
from the main land, and distant four leagues from the Rangees. This place
we named Port de Savalette, [273] the name of the master of the vessel
engaged in fishing, a Basque, who entertained us bountifully; and was very
glad to see us, since there were savages there who purposed some harm to
him, which we prevented. [274]

Leaving this place, we arrived on the 27th of the month at Canseau, distant
six leagues from Port de Savalette, having passed on our way a large number
of islands. At Canseau, we found that the three barques had arrived at port
in safety. Champdore and Lescarbot came out to receive us. We also found
the vessel ready to sail, having finished its fishing and awaiting only
fair weather to return. Meanwhile, we had much enjoyment among these
islands, where we found the greatest possible quantity of raspberries.

All the coast which we passed along from Cape Sable to this place is
moderately high and rocky, in most places bordered by numerous islands and
breakers, which extend out to sea nearly two leagues in places, and are
very unfavorable for the approach of vessels. Yet there cannot but be good
harbors and roadsteads along the coasts and islands, if they were explored.
As to the country, it is worse and less promising than in other places
which we had seen, except on some rivers or brooks, where it is very
pleasant; but there is no doubt that the winter in these regions is cold,
lasting from six to seven months.

The harbor of Canseau [275] is a place surrounded by islands,
to which the approach is very difficult, except in fair weather, on account
of the rocks and breakers about it. Fishing, both green and dry, is carried
on here.

From this place to the Island of Cape Breton, which is in latitude 45 deg. 45'
and 14 deg. 50' of the deflection of the magnetic needle, [276] it is eight
leagues, and to Cape Breton twenty-five. Between the two there is a large
bay, [277] extending Some nine or ten leagues into the interior and making
a passage between the Island of Cape Breton and the main land through to
the great Bay of St. Lawrence, by which they go to Gaspe and Isle Percee,
where fishing is carried on. This passage along the Island of Cape Breton
is very narrow. Although there is water enough, large vessels do not pass
there at all on account of the strong currents and the impetuosity of the
tides which prevail. This we named Le Passage Courant, [278] and it is in
latitude 45 deg. 45'.

The Island of Cape Breton is of a triangular shape, with a circuit of about
eighty leagues. Most of the country is mountainous, yet in some parts very
pleasant. In the centre of it there is a kind of lake, [279] where the sea
enters by the north a quarter north-west, and also by the south a quarter
Southeast. [280] Here are many islands filled with plenty of game, and
shell-fish of various kinds, including oysters, which, however, are not of
very good flavor. In this place there are two harbors, where fishing is
carried on; namely, Le Port aux Anglois, [281] distant from Cape Breton
some two or three leagues, and Niganis, eighteen or twenty leagues north a
quarter north-west. The Portuguese once made an attempt to settle this
island, and spent a winter here; but the inclemency of the season and the
cold caused them to abandon their settlement.

On the 3rd of September, we set out from Canseau. On the 4th, we were off
Sable Island. On the 6th, we reached the Grand Bank, where the catching of
green fish is carried on, in latitude 45 deg. 30'. On the 26th, we entered the
sound near the shores of Brittany and England, in sixty-five fathoms of
water and in latitude 49 deg. 30'. On the 28th, we put in at Roscou, [282] in
lower Brittany, where we were detained by bad weather until the last day of
September, when, the wind coming round favorable, we put to sea in order to
pursue our route to St. Malo, [283] which formed the termination of these
voyages, in which God had guided us without shipwreck or danger.

END OF THE VOYAGES FROM THE YEAR 1604 TO 1608.

ENDNOTES:

262. _Vide antea_, p. 9 and note 22.

263. Sesambre. This name was probably suggested by the little islet,
_Cezembre_, one of several on which are military works for the defence
of St. Malo. On De Laet's map of 1633, it is written _Sesembre_; on
that of Charlevoix. 1744, _Sincenibre_. It now appears on the
Admiralty maps corrupted into Sambro. There is a cape and a harbor
near this island which bear the same name.

264. The islands stretching along from Cap de la Heve to Sambro Island are
called the _Martyres Iles_ on De Laet's map, 1633.

265. The bay into which this river empties still retains the name of
St. Margaret.

266. Halifax Harbor. Its Indian name was Chebucto, written on the map of
the English and French Commissaries _Shebuctu_. On Champlain's map,
1612, as likewise on that of De Laet, 1633, it is called "_Baye
Senne_," perhaps from _saine_, signifying the unobstructed bay.

267. Eight leagues from the Island Sesambre or Sambro Island would take
them to Perpisawick Inlet, which is doubtless _Le Port Saincte
Helaine_ of Champlain. The latitude of this harbor is 44 deg. 41',
differing but a single minute from that of the text, which is
extraordinary, the usual variation being from ten to thirty minutes.

268. Nicomtau Bay is fifteen leagues from Perpisawick Inlet, but _La Baye
de Toutes Isles_ is, more strictly speaking, an archipelago, extending
along the coast, say from Clam Bay to Liscomb Point, as may be seen by
reference to Champlain's map, 1612, and that of De Laet, 1633,
Cruxius, 1660, and of Charlevoix, 1744. The north-eastern portion of
this archipelago is now called, according to Laverdiere, Island Bay.

269. _Riviere de l'Isle Verte_, or Green Island River, is the River
St. Mary; and Green Island is Wedge Island near its mouth. The
latitude at the mouth of the river is 45 deg. 3'. This little island is
called _I. Verte_ on De Laet's map, and likewise on that of
Charlevoix; on the map of the English and French Commissaries, Liscomb
or Green Island.

270. This inlet has now the incongruous name of Country Harbor: the three
islands at its mouth are Harbor, Goose, and Green Islands. The inlet
is called Mocodome on Charlevoix's map.

271. There are several islets on the east of St. Catharine's River, near
the shore, which Laverdiere suggests are the _Isles Rangees_. They
are exceedingly small, and no name is given them on the Admiralty
charts.

272. Tor Bay.

273. _Le Port de Savalette_. Obviously White Haven, which is four leagues
from the Rangees and six from Canseau, as stated in the text.
Lescarbot gives a very interesting account of Captain Savalette, the
old Basque fisherman, who had made forty-two voyages into these
waters. He had been eminently successful in fishing, having taken
daily, according to his own account, fifty crowns' worth of codfish,
and expected his voyage would yield, ten thousand francs. His vessel
was of eighty tons burden, and could take in a hundred thousand dry
codfish. He was well known, and a great favorite with the voyagers to
this coast. He was from St. Jean de Luz, a small seaport town in the
department of the Lower Pyrenees in France, near the borders of Spain,
distinguished even at this day for its fishing interest.

274. The Indians were in the habit of selecting from day to day the best of
Savalette's fish when they came in, and appropriating them to their
own use, _nolens volens_.

275. _Canseau_. Currency has been given to an idle fancy that this name was
derived from that of a French navigator, but it has been abundantly
disproved by the Abbe Laverdiere. It is undoubtedly a word of Indian
origin.

276. The variation of the magnetic needle in 1871, fifteen miles South of
the Harbor of Canseau, was, according to the Admiralty charts, 23
degrees west. The magnetic needle was employed in navigation as early
as the year 1200, and its variation had been discovered before the
time of Columbus. But for a long period its variation was supposed to
be fixed; that is to say, was supposed to be always the same in the
same locality. A few years before Champlain made his voyages to
America, it was discovered that its variation in Paris was not fixed,
but that it changed from year to year. If Champlain was aware of this,
his design in noting its exact variation, as he did at numerous points
on our coast, may have been to furnish data for determining at some
future day whether the variation were changeable here as well as in
France. But, whether he was aware of the discovery then recently made
in Paris or not, he probably intended, by noting the declination of
the needle, to indicate his longitude, at least approximately.

277. Chedabucto Bay.

278. The Strait of Canseau. Champlain gives it on his map, 1612. _Pasage du
glas;_ De Laet, 1633, _Passage du glas;_ Creuxius, 1660, Fretum
Campseium; Charlevoix, 1744, _Passage de Canceau_. It appears from the
above that the early name was soon superseded by that which it now
bears.

279. Now called _La Bras d'Or_, The Golden Arm.

280. There is, in fact, no passage of La Bras d'Or on the south-west; and
Champlain corrects his error, as may be seen by reference to his map
of 1612. It may also be stated that the sea enters from the
north-east. _Nordouest_ in the original is here probably a
typographical error for _nordest_. There are, indeed, two passages,
both on the north-east, distinguished as the Great and the Little Bras
d'Or.

281. _Le Port aux Anglois_, the Harbor of the English. On De Laet's map,
Port aux Angloix. This is the Harbor of Louisburgh, famous in the
history of the Island of Cape Breton.

282. Roscofs, a small seaport town. On Mercator's Atlas of 1623, it is
written Roscou, as in the text.

283. According to Lescarbot, they remained at St. Malo eight days, when
they went in a barque to Honfleur, narrowly escaping
shipwreck. Poutrincourt proceeded to Paris, where he exhibited to
Henry IV. corn, wheat, rye, barley, and oats, products of the colony
which he had so often promised to cherish, but whose means of
subsistence he had now nevertheless ungraciously taken away.
Poutrincourt also presented to him five _oustards_, or wild geese,
which he had bred from the shell. The king was greatly delighted with
them, and had them preserved at Fontainebleau. These exhibitions of
the products of New France had the desired effect upon the generous
heart of Henry IV.; and De Monts's monopoly of the fur-trade was
renewed for one year, to furnish some slight aid in establishing his
colonies in New France.

THE VOYAGES
TO THE
GREAT RIVER ST. LAWRENCE,
MADE BY
SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN,
CAPTAIN IN ORDINARY TO THE KING IN THE MARINE,
FROM THE YEAR 1608 TO THAT OF 1612.

CHAPTER I.

DETERMINATION OF SIEUR DE MONTS TO MAKE EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR; HIS
COMMISSION, AND ITS INFRINGEMENT BY THE BASQUES, WHO DISARMED THE VESSEL OF
PONT GRAVE; AND THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN THEM WHICH THEY SUBSEQUENTLY MADE.

Having returned to France after a stay of three years in New France, [283]
I proceeded to Sieur de Monts, and related to him the principal events of
which I had been a witness since his departure, and gave him the map and
plan of the most remarkable coasts and harbors there.

Some time afterward, Sieur de Monts determined to continue his undertaking,
and complete the exploration of the interior along the great river
St. Lawrence, where I had been by order of the late King Henry the Great
[284] in the year 1603, for a distance of some hundred and eighty leagues,
commencing in latitude 48 deg. 40', that is, at Gaspe, at the entrance of the
river, as far as the great fall, which is in latitude 45 deg. and some minutes,
where our exploration ended, and where boats could not pass as we then
thought, since we had not made a careful examination of it as we have since
done. [285]

Now after Sieur de Monts had conferred with me several times in regard to
his purposes concerning the exploration, he resolved to continue so noble
and meritorious an undertaking, notwithstanding the hardships and labors of
the past. He honored me with his lieutenancy for the voyage; and, in order
to carry out his purpose, he had two vessels equipped, one commanded by
Pont Grave, who was commissioned to trade with the savages of the country
and bring back the vessels, while I was to winter in the country.

Sieur de Monts, for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the
expedition, obtained letters from his Majesty for one year, by which all
persons were forbidden to traffic in peltry with the savages, on penalties
stated in the following commission:--

HENRY BY THE GRACE OF GOD KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, to our beloved and
faithful Councillors, the officers of our Admiralty in Normandy, Brittany,
and Guienne, bailiffs, marshals, prevosts, judges, or their lieutenants,
and to each one of them, according to his authority, throughout the extent
of their powers, jurisdictions, and precincts, greeting:

Acting upon the information which has been given us by those who have
returned from New France, respecting the good quality and fertility of the
lands of that country, and the disposition of the people to accept the
knowledge of God, We have resolved to continue the settlement previously
undertaken there, in order that our subjects may go there to trade without
hinderance. And in view of the proposition to us of Sieur de Monts,
Gentleman in Ordinary of our chamber, and our Lieutenant-General in that
country, to make a settlement, on condition of our giving him means and
supplies for sustaining the expense of it, [286] it has pleased us to
promise and assure him that none of our subjects but himself shall be
permitted to trade in peltry and other merchandise, for the period of one
year only, in the lands, regions, harbors, rivers, and highways throughout
the extent of his jurisdiction: this We desire to have fulfilled. For these
causes and other considerations impelling us thereto, We command and decree
that each one of you, throughout the extent of your powers, jurisdictions,
and precincts, shall act in our stead and carry out our will in distinctly
prohibiting and forbidding all merchants, masters, and captains of vessels,
also sailors and others of our subjects, of whatever rank and profession,
to fit out any vessels, in which to go themselves or send others in order
to engage in trade or barter in peltry and other things with the savages of
New France, to visit, trade, or communicate with them during the space of
one year, within the jurisdiction of Sieur de Monts, on penalty of
disobedience, and the entire confiscation of their vessels, supplies, arms,
and merchandise for the benefit of Sieur de Monts; and, in order that the
punishment of their disobedience may be assured, you will allow, as We have
and do allow, the aforesaid Sieur de Monts or his lieutenants to seize,
apprehend, and arrest all violators of our present prohibition and order,
also their vessels, merchandise, arms, supplies, and victuals, in order to
take and deliver them up to the hands of justice, so that action may be
taken not only against the persons, but also the property of the offenders,
as the case shall require. This is our will, and We bid you to have it at
once read and published in all localities and public places within your
authority and jurisdiction, as you may deem necessary, by the first one of
our officers or sergeants in accordance with this requisition, by virtue of
these presents, or a copy of the same, properly attested once only by one
of our well-beloved and faithful councillors, notaries, and secretaries, to
which it is Our will that credence should be given as to the present
original, in order that none of our subjects may claim ground for
ignorance, but that all may obey and act in accordance with Our will in
this matter. We order, moreover, all captains of vessels, mates, and second
mates, and sailors of the same, and others on board of vessels or ships in
the ports and harbors of the aforesaid country, to permit, as We have done,
Sieur de Monts, and others possessing power and authority from him, to
search the aforesaid vessels which shall have engaged in the fur-trade
after the present prohibition shall have been made known to them. It is Our
will that, upon the requisition, of the aforesaid Sieur de Monts, his
lieutenants, and others having authority, you should proceed against the
disobedient and offenders, as the case may require: to this end. We give
you power, authority, commission, and special mandate, notwithstanding the
act of our Council of the 17th day of July last, [287] any hue and cry,
Norman charter, accusation, objection, or appeals of whatsoever kind; on
account of which, and for fear of disregarding which, it is Our will that
there should be no delay, and, if any of these occur, We have withheld and
reserved cognizance of the same to Ourselves and our Council, apart from
all other judges, and have forbidden and prohibited the same to all our
courts and judges: for this is Our pleasure.

Given at Paris the seventh day of January, in the year of grace, sixteen
hundred and eight, and the nineteenth of Our reign. Signed, HENRY.

And lower down, By the King, Delomenie. And sealed with the single label of
the great seal of yellow wax.

Collated with the original by me, Councillor, Notary, and secretary of the
King.

I proceeded to Honfleur for embarkation, where I found the vessel of Pont
Grave in readiness. He left port on the 5th of April. I did so on the 13th,
arriving at the Grand Bank on the 15th of May, in latitude 45 deg. 15'. On the
26th, we sighted Cape St. Mary,[288] in latitude 46 deg. 45', on the Island of
Newfoundland. On the 27th of the month, we sighted Cape St. Lawrence, on
Cape Breton, and also the Island of St. Paul, distant eighty-three leagues
from Cape St. Mary.[289] On the 30th, we sighted Isle Percee and
Gaspe,[290] in latitude 48 deg. 40', distant from Cape St. Lawrence from
seventy to seventy-five leagues.

On the 3d of June, we arrived before Tadoussac, distant from Gaspe from
eighty to ninety leagues; and we anchored in the roadstead of
Tadoussac,[291] a league distant from the harbor, which latter is a kind of
cove at the mouth of the river Saguenay, where the tide is very remarkable
on account of its rapidity, and where there are sometimes violent winds,
bringing severe cold. It is maintained that from the harbor of Tadoussac it
is some forty-five or fifty leagues to the first fall on this river, which
comes from the north-north-west. The harbor is small, and can accommodate
only about twenty vessels. It has water enough, and is under shelter of the
river Saguenay and a little rocky island; which is almost cut by the river;
elsewhere there are very high mountains with little soil and only rocks and
sand, thickly covered with such wood as fir and birch. There is a small
pond near the harbor, shut in by mountains covered with wood. There are two
points at the mouth: one on the south-west side, extending out nearly a
league into the sea, called Point St. Matthew, or otherwise Point aux
Allouettes; and another on the north-west side, extending out one-eighth of
a league, and called Point of all Devils.[292] from the dangerous nature of
the place. The winds from the south-south-east strike the harbor, which are
not to be feared; but those, however, from the Saguenay are. The two points
above mentioned are dry at low tide: our vessel was unable to enter the
harbor, as the wind and tide were unfavorable. I at once had the boat
lowered, in order to go to the port and ascertain whether Pont Grave had
arrived. While on the way, I met a shallop with the pilot of Pont Grave and
a Basque, who came to inform me of what had happened to them because they
attempted to hinder the Basque vessels from trading, according to the
commission obtained by Sieur de Monts from his Majesty, that no vessels
should trade without permission of Sieur de Monts, as was expressed in it;
and that, notwithstanding the notifications which Pont Grave made in behalf
of his Majesty, they did not desist from forcibly carrying on their
traffic; and that they had used their arms and maintained themselves so
well in their vessel that, discharging all their cannon upon that of Pont
Grave, and letting off many musket-shots, he was severely wounded, together
with three of his men, one of whom died, Pont Grave meanwhile making no
resistance; for at the first shower of musketry he was struck down. The
Basques came on board of the vessel and took away all the cannon and arms,
declaring that they would trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of the
King, and that when they were ready to set out for France they would
restore to him his cannon and ammunition, and that they were keeping them
in order to be in a state of security. Upon hearing all these particulars,
I was greatly annoyed at such a beginning, which we might have easily
avoided.

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