Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 by Samuel de Champlain

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NOTE. It would seem as if in the title Rossynol, on the map, the two dots
on the _y_ instead of the _n_ were placed there by mistake.

* * * * *

As Soon as we had disembarked, each one commenced making huts after his
fashion, on a point at the entrance of the harbor near two fresh-water
ponds. Sieur de Monts at the Same time despatched a shallop, in which he
sent one of us, with some savages as guides as bearers of letters, along
the coast of La Cadie, to search for Pont Grave, who had a portion of the
necessary supplies for our winter sojourn. The latter was found at the Bay
of All-Isles, [25] very anxious about us (for he knew nothing of the change
of plan); and the letters were handed to him. As soon as be had read them,
he returned to his ship at Canseau, where he seized some Basque vessels
[26] engaged in the fur-trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of his
Majesty, and sent their masters to Sieur de Monts, who meanwhile charged me
to reconnoitre the coast and the harbors suitable for the secure reception
of our vessel.

With the purpose of carrying out his wishes, I set out from Port Mouton on
the 19th of May, in a barque of eight tons, accompanied by Sieur Ralleau,
his secretary, and ten men. Advancing along the coast, we entered a harbor
very convenient for vessels, at the end of which is a small river,
extending very far into the main land. This I called the Port of Cape
Negro, [27] from a rock whose distant view resembles a negro, which rises
out of the water near a cape passed by us the same day, four leagues off
and ten from Port Mouton. This cape is very dangerous, on account of the
rocks running out into the sea. The shores which I saw, up to that point,
are very low, and covered with such wood as that seen at the Cap de la
Heve; and the islands are all filled with game. Going farther on, we passed
the night at Sable Bay, [28] where vessels can anchor without any danger.

The next day we went to Cape Sable, [29] also very dangerous, in
consequence of certain rocks and reefs extending almost a league into the
sea. It is two leagues from Sable Bay, where we had spent the night before.
Thence we went to Cormorant Island, [30] a league distant, so called from
the infinite number of cormorants found there, of whose eggs we collected a
cask full. From this island, we sailed westerly about six leagues, crossing
a bay, which makes up to the north two or three leagues. Then we fell in
with several islands [31] distant two or three leagues from the main land;
and, as well as I could judge, some of them were two leagues in extent,
others three, and others were still smaller. Most of them are very
dangerous for large vessels to approach, on account of the tides and the
rocks on a level with the water. These islands are filled with pines, firs,
birches, and aspens. A little farther out, there are four more. In one, we
saw so great a quantity of birds, called penguins, [32] that we killed them
easily with sticks. On another, we found the shore completely covered with
sea-wolves, [33] of which we captured as many as we wished. At the two
others there is such an abundance of birds of different sorts that one
could not imagine it, if he had not seen them. There are cormorants, three
kinds of duck, geese, _marmettes?_, bustards, sea-parrots, snipe, vultures,
and other birds of prey; gulls, sea-larks of two or three kinds; herons,
large sea-gulls, curlews, sea-magpies, divers, ospreys, _appoils?_, ravens,
cranes, and other sorts which I am not acquainted with, and which also make
their nests here. [34] We named these Sea-Wolf Islands. They are in
latitude 43 deg. 30', distant from four to five leagues from the main land, or
Cape Sable. After spending pleasantly some time there in hunting (and not
without capturing much game), we set out and reached a cape, [35] which we
christened Port Fourchu from its being fork-shaped, distant from five to
six leagues from the Sea-Wolf Islands. This harbor is very convenient for
vessels at its entrance; but its remoter part is entirely dry at low tide,
except the channel of a little stream, completely bordered by meadows,
which make this spot very pleasant. There is good codfishing near the
harbor. Departing from there, we sailed north ten or twelve leagues without
finding any harbor for our vessels, but a number of very fine inlets or
shores, where the soil seems to be well adapted for cultivation. The woods
are exceedingly fine here, but there are few pines and firs. This coast is
clear, without islands, rocks, or shoals; so that, in our judgment, vessels
can securely go there. Being distant quarter of a league from the coast, we
went to an island called Long Island, [36] lying north-north-east and
south-south-west, which makes an opening into the great Baye Francoise,
[37] so named by Sieur de Monts.

This island is six leagues long, and nearly a league broad in some places,
in others only quarter of a league. It is covered with an abundance of
wood, such as pines and birch. All the coast is bordered by very dangerous
rocks; and there is no place at all favorable for vessels, only little
inlets for shallops at the extremity of the island, and three or four small
rocky islands, where the savages capture many sea-wolves. There are strong
tides, especially at the little passage [38] of the island, which is very
dangerous for vessels running the risk of passing through it.

From Long Island passage, we sailed north-east two leagues, when we found a
cove [39] where vessels can anchor in safety, and which is quarter of a
league or thereabouts in circuit. The bottom is all mire, and the
surrounding land is bordered by very high rocks. In this place there is a
very good silver mine, according to the report of the miner, Master Simon,
who accompanied me. Some leagues farther on there is a little stream called
river Boulay [40] where the tide rises half a league into the land, at the
mouth of which vessels of a hundred tons can easily ride at anchor. Quarter
of a league from here there is a good harbor for vessels, where we found an
iron mine, which our miner estimated would yield fifty per cent [41]
Advancing three leagues farther on to the northeast [42] we saw another
very good iron mine, near which is a river surrounded by beautiful and
attractive meadows. The neighboring soil is red as blood. Some leagues
farther on there is still another river, [43] dry at low tide, except in
its very small channel, and which extends near to Port Royal. At the
extremity of this bay is a channel, also dry at low tide [44] surrounding
which are a number of pastures and good pieces of land for cultivation,
where there are nevertheless great numbers of fine trees of all the kinds
previously mentioned. The distance from Long Island to the end of this bay
may be some six leagues. The entire coast of the mines is very high,
intersected by capes, which appear round, extending out a short distance.
On the other side of the bay, on the south-east, the land is low and good,
where there is a very good harbor, having a bank at its entrance over which
it is necessary to pass. On this bar there is a fathom and a half of water
at low tide; but after passing it you find three, with good bottom. Between
the two points of the harbor there is a pebbly islet, covered at full
tide. This place extends half a league inland. The tide falls here three
fathoms, and there are many shell-fish, such as muscles, cockles, and
sea-snails. The soil is as good as any that I have seen. I named this
harbor Saint Margaret. [45] This entire south-east coast is much lower than
that of the mines, which is only a league and a half from the coast of
Saint Margaret, being Separated by the breadth of the bay, [46] which is
three leagues at its entrance. I took the altitude at this place, and found
the latitude 45 deg. 30', and a little more,[47] the deflection of the magnetic
needle being 17 deg. 16'.

After having explored as particularly as I could the coasts, ports, and
harbors, I returned, without advancing any farther, to Long Island passage,
whence I went back outside of all the islands in order to observe whether
there was any danger at all on the water side. But we found none whatever,
except there were some rocks about half a league from Sea-Wolf Islands,
which, however, can be easily avoided, since the sea breaks over them.
Continuing our voyage, we were overtaken by a violent wind, which obliged
us to run our barque ashore, where we were in danger of losing her, which
would have caused us extreme perplexity. The tempest having ceased, we
resumed the sea, and the next day reached Port Mouton, where Sieur de Monts
was awaiting us from day to day, thinking only of our long stay, [48] and
whether some accident had not befallen us. I made a report to him of our
voyage, and where our vessels might go in Safety. Meanwhile, I observed
very particularly that place which is in latitude 44 deg..

The next day Sieur de Monts gave orders to weigh anchor and proceed to the
Bay of Saint Mary, [49] a place which we had found to be Suitable for our
vessel to remain in, until we should be able to find one more advantageous.
Coasting along, we passed near Cape Sable and the Sea-Wolf Islands, whither
Sieur de Monts decided to go in a shallop, and see some islands of which we
had made a report to him, as also of the countless number of birds found
there. Accordingly, he set out, accompanied by Sieur de Poutrincourt, and
several other noblemen, with the intention of going to Penguin Island,
where we had previously killed with sticks a large number of these
birds. Being somewhat distant from our ship, it was beyond our power to
reach it, and still less to reach our vessel; for the tide was so strong
that we were compelled to put in at a little island to pass the night,
where there was much game. I killed there some river-birds, which were very
acceptable to us, especially as we had taken only a few biscuit, expecting
to return the same day. The next day we reached Cape Fourchu, distant half
a league from there. Coasting along, we found our vessel in the Bay of
Saint Mary. Our company were very anxious about us for two days, fearing
lest some misfortune had befallen us; but, when they saw us all safe, they
were much rejoiced.

Two or three days after our arrival, one of our priests, named Mesire Aubry
[50] from Paris, got lost so completely in the woods while going after his
sword, which he had forgotten, that he could not find the vessel. And he
was thus seventeen days without any thing to subsist upon except some sour
and bitter plants like the sorrel, and some small fruit of little substance
large as currants, which creep upon the ground. [51] Being at his wits'
end, without hope of ever seeing us again, weak and feeble, he found
himself on the shore of Baye Francoise, thus named by Sieur de Monts, near
Long Island, [52] where his strength gave out, when one of our shallops out
fishing discovered him. Not being able to shout to them, he made a sign
with a pole, on the end of which he had put his hat, that they should go
and get him. This they did at once, and brought him off. Sieur de Monts had
caused a search to be made not only by his own men, but also by the savages
of those parts, who scoured all the woods, but brought back no intelligence
of him. Believing him to be dead, they all saw him coming back in the
shallop to their great delight. A long time was needed to restore him to
his usual strength.

ENDNOTES:

14. _Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de Monts, pour l'habitation es terres
de la Cadie, Canada, et autres endroits en la Nouvelle-France_,
Histoire de a Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat.
Liv. p. 431. This charter may also be found in English in a _Collection
of Voyages and Travels compiled from the Library of the Earl of Oxford,
by Thomas Osborne_, London, 1745, Vol. II. pp. 796-798; also in
_Murdoch's History of Nova Scotia_, Halifax, 1865, Vol. I. pp. 21-24.

15. The second officer, or pilot, was, according to Lescarbot, Captain
Morel, of Honfleur.

16. This was under the direction of De Monts himself; and Captain Timothee,
of Havre de Grace, was pilot, or the second officer.

17. Lescarbot writes this name Campseau; Champlain's orthography is
Canceau; the English often write Canso, but more correctly Canseau. It
has been derived from _Cansoke_, an Indian word, meaning _facing the
frowning cliffs_.

18. The Cape and Island of Cape Breton appear to have taken their name from
the fisherman of Brittany, who frequented that region as early as 1504
--_Vide Champlain's Voyages_, Paris 1632, p. 9.

Thevet sailed along the coast in 1556, and is quoted by Laverdiere, as
follows: "In this land there is a province called Compestre de Berge,
extending towards the south-east: in the eastern part of the same is
the cape or promontory of Lorraine, called so by us; others have given
it the came of the Cape of the Bretons, since the Bretons, the
Bisayans, and Normans repair thither, and coast along on their way to
Newfoundland to fish for codfish."

An inscription, "_tera que soy descuberta per pertonnes_," on an Old
Portuguese map of 1520, declares it to be a country discovered by the
Bretons. It is undoubtedly the oldest French name on any part of North
America. On Gastaldo's map in Mattiolo's Italian translation of
Ptolemy, 1548, the name of Breton is applied both to Nova Scotia and to
the Island of Cape Breton.

19. Winthrop says that Mr. John Rose, who was cast away on Sable Island
about 1633, "saw about eight hundred cattle, small and great, all red,
and the largest he ever saw: and many foxes, wherof some perfect
black."--_Whinthrop's Hist. New Eng._, Boston, 1853, Vol. I. p. 193.

Champlain doubtless obtained his information in regard to the cattle
left upon Sable Island by the Portuguese from the from the report of
Edward Haies on the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583:

"Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Briton about twenty-five leagues,
whither we were determined to goe vpon intelligence we had of a
Portugal (during our abode in S. Johns) who was himselfe present, when
the Portugals (aboue thirty yeeres past) did put in the same Island
both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied.
This seemed vnto vs very happy tidings, to haue in an Island lying so
neere vnto the maine, which we intended to plant vpon. Such store of
cattell, whereby we might at all times conueniently be relieued of
victuall, and serued of store for breed."--_Edward Haies in Hakluyt's
Voyages_, London, ed. 1810. Vol. III. p. 197.

20. "Loups marins," seals.

21. "The forty poor wretches whom he left on Sable Island found on the
seashore some wrecks of vessels, out of which they built barracks to
shield themselves from the severity of the weather. They were the
remains of Spanish vessels, which had sailed to settle Cape Breton.
From these same ships had come some sheep and cattle, which had
multiplied on Sable Island; and this was for some time a resource for
these poor exiles. Fish was their next food; and, when their clothes
were worn out, they made new ones of seal-skin. At last, after a lapse
of seven years, the king, having heard of their adventure, obliged
Chedotel, the pilot, to go for them; but he found only twelve, the rest
having died of their hardships. His majesty desired to see those, who
returned in the same guise as found by Chedotel, covered with
seal-skin, with their hair and beard of a length and disorder that made
them resemble the pretended river-gods, and so disfigured as to inspire
horror. The king gave them fifty crowns apiece, and sent them home
released from all process of law."--_Shea's Charlevoix_, New York,
1866, Vol. I. p. 244. See also _Sir William Alexander and American
Colonization_, Prince Society, 1873, p. 174; _Murdoch's Nova Scotia_,
Vol. I. p. 11; _Hakluyt_, Vol. II. pp. 679. 697.

22. This cape still bears the same name, and is the western point of the
bay at the mouth of a river, likewise of the same name, in the county
of Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. It is an abrupt cliff, rising up one hundred
and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It could therefore be seen
at a great distance, and appears to have been the first land sighted by
them on the coast of La Cadie. A little north of Havre de Grace, in
Normandy, the port from which De Monts and Champlain had sailed, is to
be seen the high, commanding, rocky bluff, known as _Cap de la Heve_.
The place which they first sighted, similar at least in some respects,
they evidently named after this bold and striking headland, which may,
perhaps, have been the last object which they saw on leaving the shores
of France. The word _Heve_ seems to have had a local meaning, as may be
inferred from the following excerpt: "A name, in Lower Normandy, for
cliffs hollowed out below, and where fishermen search for crabs."--
_Littre_. The harbor delineated on Champlain's local map is now called
Palmerston Bay, and is at the mouth of Petit River. The latitude of
this harbor is about 44 deg. 15'. De Laet's description is fuller than that
of Champlain or Lescarbot.--_Vide Novus Orbis_, 1633, p. 51.

23. Liverpool, which for a long time bore the name of Port Rossignol; the
lake at the head of the river, about ten miles long and two or three
wide, the largest in Nova Scotia, still bears that appellation. The
latitude is 44 deg. 2' 30".

24. "Lequel ils appelerent _Le Port du Mouton_, a l'occasion d'un mouton
qui s'estant nove revint a bord, et fut mange de bonne guerre."--
_Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612,
Qvat. Liv. p. 449. It still bears the name of Port Mouton, and an
island in the bay is called Mouton Island.

25. _Baye de Toutes-isles_. Lescarbot calls it "La Baye des Iles:" and
Charlevoix, "Baye de toutes les Isles." It was the bay, or rather the
waters, that stretch along the shores of Halifax County, between Owl's
Head and Liscomb River.

26. The confiscated provisions taken in the vessels of the Basque
fur-traders and in that of Rossignol were, according to Lescarbot,
found very useful. De Monts had given timely notice of his monopoly;
and, whether it had reached them or not, they were doubtless wrong in
law. Although De Monts treated them with gentleness, nevertheless it is
not unlikely that a compromise would have been better policy than an
entire confiscation of their property, as these Basques afterwards, on
their return to France, gave him serious inconvenience. They were
instrumental mainly in wresting from him his charter of La Cadie.

27. _Le Port du Cap Negre_. This port still bears the name of Negro
Harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Clyde, the small river
referred to in the text.

28. Near Cape Sable Island, at what is now known as Barrington Harbor.

29. This is still called Cape Sable, and is the southern point of Sable
Island, or, more properly, the cluster of rock, and islets that
surround its southern extremity.

30. _Isle aux Cormorans_. It is difficult to distinguish with certainty the
island here referred to, but it was probably Hope Island, as this lies
directly in their way in crossing the bay, six leagues wide, which is
now known as Townsend Bay. The bird here mentioned was the common
cormorant. _Graculus carbo_, of a glossy greenish-black color, back and
wings bronzy-gray; about three feet in length, and is common on our
northern Atlantic coast: eminently gregarious, particularly in the
breeding season, congregating in vast flocks. At the present time, it
breeds in great numbers in Labrador and Newfoundland, and in the winter
migrates as far south as the Middle States. They feed principally upon
fish, lay commonly two eggs, of a pale greenish color, overlaid with a
white chalky substance.--_Vide Cones's Key to Nor. Am. Birds_. Boston,
1872. p. 302.

31. A cluster of islands now known as the Tousquet or Tusket Islands.
Further on, Champlain says they named them _Isles aux loups marins_.
Sea-Wolf Islands. About five leagues south of them is an island now
called Seal Island. The four more which he saw a little further on were
probably in Townsend Bay.

32. This is the Auk, family _Alcidae_, and must not be confounded with the
penguin of the southern hemisphere, although it is described by the
early navigators of the Northern Atlantic under that appellation. In
Anthony Parkhurst's letter to Hakluyt, 1578, he says: "These birds are
also called Penguins, and cannot flie, there is more meate in one of
these then in a goose: the Frenchmen that fish neere the grand baie, do
bring small store of flesh with them, but victuall themselves alwayes
with these birds."--_Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 172.
Edward Haies, in his report of the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in
1583, say's: "We had sight of an Island named Penguin, of a foule there
breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which cannot flie, their
wings not able to carry their body, being very large (not much lesse
then a goose), and exceeding fat: which the Frenchmen use to take
without difficulty upon that Island, and to barrell them up with salt."
_Idem_, p. 191.

The Auk is confined to the northern hemisphere, where it represents the
penguins of the southern. Several species occur in the Northern
Atlantic in almost incredible numbers: they are all marine, feed on
fish and other animal substances exclusively, and lay from one to three
eggs on the bare rocks. Those seen by Champlain and other early
navigators were the Great Auk. _Alca impennis_, now nearly extinct. It
was formerly found on the coast of New England, as is proved not only
by the testimony of the primitive explorers, but by the remains found
in shell-heaps. The latest discovery was of one found dead near
St. Augustine, in Labrador, in 1870. A specimen of the Great Auk is
preserved in the Cambridge Museum.--_Vide Coues's Key to North Am.
Birds_, Boston, 1872. p. 338.

33. The sea-wolf or _loup marin_ of Champlain is the marine mammiferous
quadruped of the family Phocidae, known as the seal. Sea-wolf was a
name applied to it by the early navigators.--_Vide Purchas's Pilgrims_,
London, 1625. Vol. IV. p. 1385. Those here mentioned were the common
seal, _Phoca vitulina_, which are still found on the coasts of Nova
Scotia, vulgarly known as the harbor seal. They are thinly distributed
as far south as Long Island Sound, but are found in great numbers in
the waters of Labrador and Newfoundland, where they are taken for the
oil obtained from them, and for the skins, which are used for various
purposes in the arts.

34. The names given to these birds were such, doubtless, as were known to
belong to birds similar in color, size, and figure in Europe. Some of
them were probably misapplied. The name alone is not sufficient for
identification.

35. This cape, near the entrance to Yarmouth, still bears the same name,
from _fourchu_, forked. On a map of 1755, it is called Forked Cape, and
near it is Fork Ledge and Forked Harbor.--_Memorials of English and
French Commissaries_, London, 1755.

36. It still retains the name given to it by Champlain. It forms a part of
the western limit of St. Mary's Bay, and a line drawn from it to the
St. Croix, cutting the Grand Manan, would mark the entrance of the Bay
of Fundy.

37. The Bay of Fundy was thus first named "Baye Francoise" by De Monts, and
continued to be so called, as will appear by reference to the early
maps, as that of De Laet, 1633; Charlevoix, 1744; Rouge, 1778. It first
appears distinctly on the carte of Diego Homem of 1558, but without
name. On Cabot's Mappe-Monde, in "Monuments de la Geographie," we find
_rio fondo_, which may represent the Bay of Fundy, and may have
suggested the name adopted by the English, which it still retains. Sir
William Alexander's map, 1624, has Argal's Bay; Moll's map, 1712, has
Fundi Bay; that of the English and French Commissaries, 1755, has Bay
of Fundy, or Argal.

38. This strait, known by the name Petit Passage, separates Long Island
from Digby Neck.

39. A place called Little River, on Digby Neck.

40. Now known as Sandy Cove.

41. Lescarbot says of this iron mine, and of the silver mine above, that
they were proved not to be abundant.

42. This was probably near Rossway.

43. This was clearly Smith Creek or Smelt River, which rises near Annapolis
Basin, or the Port Royal Basin of the French.

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